Julez72

 

Stik, sounds like your approaching the finish line.....we want pics

Well i started another Mustang, got her ready for paint and the P-38 is ready for an undercoat.....Pics soon...

Yeah Julez and Stik are both teasin us  wheres the pictures ??????????????

Gamera your Minicraft B-29 is in and most welcomed, really can't wait to see this build. Are you planning on using paint or foil ?

Thanks Vetteman and thanks again for hosting the GB.

Fantastic work going on here, congrads all around!

I'll toss in a Minicraft 1/72 Boeing B-29. It's a big plane even in 1/72 - about 16 inches/ 40 cm long with a wingspan of about two feet / 60 cm. I'd thought about using foil since with the flat wings and cigar shaped body the only complex curves are on the engine nacelles. But I've a bunch of Alclad II and I've had good luck with it so I think I'll give it a go.

I'll try to get some photos of the box and the kit parts posted soonish.

Okay, okay... Pics are inbound.... Well as said before all the major markings are on. But I still have about a half zillion tiny stencil decals to apply.... And then touch up of colors, top coat, pro modeler wash... add final bits... But  nearing the finish line...

Lookin' good Stik!!!   Looking forward to seeing her all finished up.

Stik she's looking good mate!!!!! You have done very well on those buzz numbers!!!! I'm loving that!!

Gamera looking forward to seeing you B-29!!!

Stik, cool build The contrasting NMF colours on certain panels really adds to the effect....Very nice

vetteman42

 

 

 

Yeah Julez and Stik are both teasin us  wheres the pictures ??????????????

My host wants pics..............

The P-38 all seamed up and with it's undercoat on....

Now the Mustang,anoher PTO, "Dirty Old Man" i put the future straight over the sanded plastic without undercoat and have done the tail feathers...

Now the spinner while i wait for everything else to dry...I use an automotive pin striping tape(6mm) because it bends really well...I cut strips of about 1.5mm and it justs wraps around......Luv that tape

I just repeat the process when everything is dry and paint the blue on...

Sorry if you have dial up......Jules

Julez that is raising the bar yet higher!!!!! They are both coming along great!!!! Love those tail feathers!!!!

vetteman42

Maxfax not being one of the NMF paint experts here I have had the problem you are having with Tamiya paints. I found that the alcohol evaporates way too fast for the paint to self level. I have had much better luck thinning Tamiya paints with distilled or purified water in a 50/50 mix. I would guess if you buff or lightly sand the paint then future coat it that it would be fine, however I would suggest you wait on a few others to chime in before going to that trouble because I could be very wrong about that. I have stripped freshly painted parts that were painted with Tamiya acrylic paints with 91% alcohol and a bit of torn up t-shirt and q-tips with not much trouble at all.

Thanks vetteman42 for clarifying this problem I have had with Tamiya acrylics for washes. I am now keeping away from 70% alcohol to the 50% mix with better results. Also found alcohol over enamel flat clear is a bad combination as it tends to stain the clear. I now use tap water with a dab of dish soap for washes over enamel clear.

Hearing about a problem and different corrections helps a lot in understanding the issue. Once again a new kung-foo technique has been discovered in the forums!

Vetteman! Guess what! I picked up a kit yesterday that might qualify, it is a 1/48 Revell Spirit of St. Louis, so if that works put me down on the roster.

Julez,

That's what I am talking about....paint. Sweet job on the tail feathers and prop covers.

Hey Julez, nice progress on your P-38 and P-51. Automotive pinstriping tape, eh? I'll have to find some of that and try it. Auto parts store? I've been using 2mm Pactra masking tape for striping on my Mustang but have found it has a tendency to lift (un-seat) over night in areas where it is bent. Too low-tack, I suppose. Instead, I used standard household masking tape, cut to size. Also, what kind of tape did you use on your spinner? In a separate post, I will show a technique I used to paint a spinner. 

NiceFit

... In a separate post, I will show a technique I used to paint a spinner. 

I got somewhat frustrated attempting to paint the spinners by either dipping them or using masking tape. I came up with this other technique and it worked well. The process is to: 1) paint the spinner the base color and let it cure, 2) insert the painted spinner into a hardware gauge, securing it on the backside with masking tape, and 3) paint the alternate color using light coats. [These photos were taken after the fact using a spinner from another kit.

]

This simply shows more of the hardware gauge.

Dobby,

That's a GREAT technique idea and one I will most definitely use next time! Thanks for the idea and sharing with the GB.

IBuild148

Dobby,

That's a GREAT technique idea and one I will most definitely use next time! Thanks for the idea and sharing with the GB.

I would never have thought of that, not in a hundred years....

Dobby, I only use the pinstriping tape on things like spinners fueselage bands ect, anything that curves.....For everything else i use tamiya 6mm or 40mm....

Stikpusher now thats what I am talkin about ! A sweet build worth waiting for, and being teased with LOL. I love the way your panel shading worked out, and the decals really make it pop.

Julez72 you handled those seams beautifully on a seam nightmare ! The nose on the P-38 kits are almost impossible to pull off and you have pulled it off perfectly  Cant wait to see her in NMF. And those stripes on your P-51 rudder are great, very well done. Maybe one day I will work up the courage to try that.

Raptordriver I can't think of a model that belongs in a NMF build than " The Spirit Of Saint Louis". You are in my friend and very welcomed.

Suppressionfire, Julez72, and Nicefit Tips like yours are what makes these group builds so much fun, and help us all to build better and better models. Thank you and all who take the time to post and share their " How I Done It " tips

Hey Vetteman

Have you used the Tamiya thinner for thinning the paints instead of water? I don't relish another mess up like last time- I'll try some distilled water next time.

I ended up selectively stripping a number of areas, sanding and repaintingwith black. I ended up have to do it again because of some other foul-up. Started to paint with Alclad last night, not realizing that there was a gob of it on my gloved finger from a dribble down the Alclad bottle, making nice raised splotches all over one side of the fuselage. Had to strip several areas again, repaint with black and hopefully I can get something to go right tonight! I'll post some WIP pics in a day or two.

Rob

Following is the first of my 2 builds and it is now finished.

Recap. This was my first Hasegawa kit and overall I was pleased with this build. The biggest "part" problem I had was B3 the Nose piece. This was to large and needed quite a bit of sanding to conform. As for the decals (approx. 70 total) they were great .... EXCEPT for #1 the Nose decal. Obviously someone at Hasegawa was not paying attention to their work that day for it is to big. I was left with 3 choices.

1. Cut and paste as best as possible

2. Remove all together and custom paint it on

3. Remove all the decals and do another scheme.

I opted for #1.

Here is the aircraft from 1957

Here is my build:

I have 2 other kits that I want to finish before I start my second build, the P-47D, Kansas Tornado.

stikpusher,

Your F-84E looks great. Looking forward to the finish.

148 that looks awesome!!!! Love the paintwork!!! The splice and stick looks very well!!!!! Cut and Paste???!!! Really now that is only on the puter!!!!

Great job on the Sabre!

Rob

maxfax

Hey Vetteman

Have you used the Tamiya thinner for thinning the paints instead of water? I don't relish another mess up like last time- I'll try some distilled water next time.

 

Rob

Maxfax cant say I have tried the Tamiya thinner, as a matter of fact I have not even seen it at the LHS. Tamiya white is another color I have had trouble with and found if I add a few drops of future with the water to thin it, it levels much better. I saw that trick here on the forum, I guess the future acts as a retarder and its the only color I have had to use that trick with. But the down side of that is I found I had to toss the paint because if I let it sit for a few hours it tended to curttle kind of like cottage cheese.

Ibuild148 oh but thats a sweet Sabre I really like her, cant tell you even had troubles with the decals. I would say your cut & paste worked out quite well. Gotta love the colorful markings too Your F-86 is on the front page right where she belongs and thank you for joining us.

Guys I cant believe the number of builds that are complete already, it hasn't even been a month yet. My hat is off to all of you.

Stikpusher and Julez great looking work! I'll have to give the pin-striping tape a try.

48- the F-86 is spectacular!!!

Anyway, box top:

Despite the thing's size the B-29 was a pretty sleek, clean aircraft. The fuselage is mostly just a long cigar shaped tube with a wing on it.

Excellent work 148

48, Outstanding build buddy she looks great, well done

Maxfax, Tamiya thinners are great, i use them almost exclusivly...They mix well with every paint i use...

I think I may give the Tamiya thinner a try.

Now, another problem. I seem to be running into them alot lately. I finally got the Alclad  Polished Aluminum on, and over all it looks reasonbly good, but not as smooth in areas I would like. I guess there were areas the black undercoating wasn't so smooth- perhaps slightly grainy, and many areas feel rough to the touch. I can easily live with this, but, I am wondering if I cover the plane in Future to smooth it out more, then add another layer of Alclad, if that would help.

Any suggestions?

Rob

Rob, yeah buddy you can do that, give the alcad a light buff with a soft cloth then maybe lightly brush some future over the problem areas, give it an hour to dry and then give it a coat of future with your AB....It may help..Your rough areas might be alclad that dried midflight....

Ok well im gonna sorta get tentativly started on the planning stage while i finish off my mig.

Heres what im faced with.

Opened a sealed box and discovered half the stuffs off its sprues. stuff all detail. decals seem ok though. and 2 different colours of plastic. Has anyone else built this kit before? is this normal?

Im thinking of doing this with a mix of brush painting and BMF. any advice on BMF is greatly appreciated as ive never used it before. but hey, you gotta start somewhere and i may aswell start with a fairly cheap kit. Are there any quirks i need to know about it in terms of painting over it and decals?

maxfax

Now, another problem. I seem to be running into them alot lately. I finally got the Alclad  Polished Aluminum on, and over all it looks reasonbly good, but not as smooth in areas I would like. I guess there were areas the black undercoating wasn't so smooth- perhaps slightly grainy, and many areas feel rough to the touch. I can easily live with this, but, I am wondering if I cover the plane in Future to smooth it out more, then add another layer of Alclad, if that would help.

MaxFax, I noticed the exact same thing. In my case, some of the Krylon was applied over Plastikote primer and some over enamel overspray. (I never got to the Alclad stage.) In my case, I think it was the primer underneath that was causing the gritty feel, because I didn't notice the problem in the overspray areas. At any rate, I decided to strip the plane and start over (for the umptenth time!). As someone else suggested, I re-started by applying a coat of Future directly over the plastic instead of using primer. I then painted my stripes and will soon mask them. I haven't gotten much further than that at this point. Krylon comes next.

Scorp I saw the Testors mark on the box and immediately said 'Ohhhh lol no way!!!' Then I looked at the parts and saw the two parts in plain view for the turtle back. Where you can either build the razorback or the bubble top. If that is the true Testors kit, I built that one back in the late seventies!!! Don't remember a thing about it other than it racked up many many missions over the front and back yards. So have to say in all honesty that it will be a perfect cheap candidate to paractice a BMF finish with. One thing about a BMF finish is like all metallic colored finishes, the surface has to be SPOT ON!!!! BMF, even kitchen foil with a homebrew adhesive will show any spec of dust that may be on the surface and any surface imperfections. Aside from the things to look out for that might be a worry a BMF looks WAYYYY COOOOOL!!!!!! HTH