Excellent work 148

Stikpusher and Julez great looking work! I'll have to give the pin-striping tape a try.

48- the F-86 is spectacular!!!

Anyway, box top:

Despite the thing's size the B-29 was a pretty sleek, clean aircraft. The fuselage is mostly just a long cigar shaped tube with a wing on it.

maxfax

Hey Vetteman

Have you used the Tamiya thinner for thinning the paints instead of water? I don't relish another mess up like last time- I'll try some distilled water next time.

 

Rob

Maxfax cant say I have tried the Tamiya thinner, as a matter of fact I have not even seen it at the LHS. Tamiya white is another color I have had trouble with and found if I add a few drops of future with the water to thin it, it levels much better. I saw that trick here on the forum, I guess the future acts as a retarder and its the only color I have had to use that trick with. But the down side of that is I found I had to toss the paint because if I let it sit for a few hours it tended to curttle kind of like cottage cheese.

Ibuild148 oh but thats a sweet Sabre I really like her, cant tell you even had troubles with the decals. I would say your cut & paste worked out quite well. Gotta love the colorful markings too Your F-86 is on the front page right where she belongs and thank you for joining us.

Guys I cant believe the number of builds that are complete already, it hasn't even been a month yet. My hat is off to all of you.

Great job on the Sabre!

Rob

148 that looks awesome!!!! Love the paintwork!!! The splice and stick looks very well!!!!! Cut and Paste???!!! Really now that is only on the puter!!!!

stikpusher,

Your F-84E looks great. Looking forward to the finish.

Following is the first of my 2 builds and it is now finished.

Recap. This was my first Hasegawa kit and overall I was pleased with this build. The biggest "part" problem I had was B3 the Nose piece. This was to large and needed quite a bit of sanding to conform. As for the decals (approx. 70 total) they were great .... EXCEPT for #1 the Nose decal. Obviously someone at Hasegawa was not paying attention to their work that day for it is to big. I was left with 3 choices.

1. Cut and paste as best as possible

2. Remove all together and custom paint it on

3. Remove all the decals and do another scheme.

I opted for #1.

Here is the aircraft from 1957

Here is my build:

I have 2 other kits that I want to finish before I start my second build, the P-47D, Kansas Tornado.

Hey Vetteman

Have you used the Tamiya thinner for thinning the paints instead of water? I don't relish another mess up like last time- I'll try some distilled water next time.

I ended up selectively stripping a number of areas, sanding and repaintingwith black. I ended up have to do it again because of some other foul-up. Started to paint with Alclad last night, not realizing that there was a gob of it on my gloved finger from a dribble down the Alclad bottle, making nice raised splotches all over one side of the fuselage. Had to strip several areas again, repaint with black and hopefully I can get something to go right tonight! I'll post some WIP pics in a day or two.

Rob

Stikpusher now thats what I am talkin about ! A sweet build worth waiting for, and being teased with LOL. I love the way your panel shading worked out, and the decals really make it pop.

Julez72 you handled those seams beautifully on a seam nightmare ! The nose on the P-38 kits are almost impossible to pull off and you have pulled it off perfectly  Cant wait to see her in NMF. And those stripes on your P-51 rudder are great, very well done. Maybe one day I will work up the courage to try that.

Raptordriver I can't think of a model that belongs in a NMF build than " The Spirit Of Saint Louis". You are in my friend and very welcomed.

Suppressionfire, Julez72, and Nicefit Tips like yours are what makes these group builds so much fun, and help us all to build better and better models. Thank you and all who take the time to post and share their " How I Done It " tips

IBuild148

Dobby,

That's a GREAT technique idea and one I will most definitely use next time! Thanks for the idea and sharing with the GB.

I would never have thought of that, not in a hundred years....

Dobby, I only use the pinstriping tape on things like spinners fueselage bands ect, anything that curves.....For everything else i use tamiya 6mm or 40mm....

Dobby,

That's a GREAT technique idea and one I will most definitely use next time! Thanks for the idea and sharing with the GB.

NiceFit

... In a separate post, I will show a technique I used to paint a spinner. 

I got somewhat frustrated attempting to paint the spinners by either dipping them or using masking tape. I came up with this other technique and it worked well. The process is to: 1) paint the spinner the base color and let it cure, 2) insert the painted spinner into a hardware gauge, securing it on the backside with masking tape, and 3) paint the alternate color using light coats. [These photos were taken after the fact using a spinner from another kit.

]

This simply shows more of the hardware gauge.

Hey Julez, nice progress on your P-38 and P-51. Automotive pinstriping tape, eh? I'll have to find some of that and try it. Auto parts store? I've been using 2mm Pactra masking tape for striping on my Mustang but have found it has a tendency to lift (un-seat) over night in areas where it is bent. Too low-tack, I suppose. Instead, I used standard household masking tape, cut to size. Also, what kind of tape did you use on your spinner? In a separate post, I will show a technique I used to paint a spinner. 

Julez,

That's what I am talking about....paint. Sweet job on the tail feathers and prop covers.

Vetteman! Guess what! I picked up a kit yesterday that might qualify, it is a 1/48 Revell Spirit of St. Louis, so if that works put me down on the roster.

vetteman42

Maxfax not being one of the NMF paint experts here I have had the problem you are having with Tamiya paints. I found that the alcohol evaporates way too fast for the paint to self level. I have had much better luck thinning Tamiya paints with distilled or purified water in a 50/50 mix. I would guess if you buff or lightly sand the paint then future coat it that it would be fine, however I would suggest you wait on a few others to chime in before going to that trouble because I could be very wrong about that. I have stripped freshly painted parts that were painted with Tamiya acrylic paints with 91% alcohol and a bit of torn up t-shirt and q-tips with not much trouble at all.

Thanks vetteman42 for clarifying this problem I have had with Tamiya acrylics for washes. I am now keeping away from 70% alcohol to the 50% mix with better results. Also found alcohol over enamel flat clear is a bad combination as it tends to stain the clear. I now use tap water with a dab of dish soap for washes over enamel clear.

Hearing about a problem and different corrections helps a lot in understanding the issue. Once again a new kung-foo technique has been discovered in the forums!

Julez that is raising the bar yet higher!!!!! They are both coming along great!!!! Love those tail feathers!!!!

vetteman42

 

 

 

Yeah Julez and Stik are both teasin us  wheres the pictures ??????????????

My host wants pics..............

The P-38 all seamed up and with it's undercoat on....

Now the Mustang,anoher PTO, "Dirty Old Man" i put the future straight over the sanded plastic without undercoat and have done the tail feathers...

Now the spinner while i wait for everything else to dry...I use an automotive pin striping tape(6mm) because it bends really well...I cut strips of about 1.5mm and it justs wraps around......Luv that tape

I just repeat the process when everything is dry and paint the blue on...

Sorry if you have dial up......Jules

Stik, cool build The contrasting NMF colours on certain panels really adds to the effect....Very nice

Stik she's looking good mate!!!!! You have done very well on those buzz numbers!!!! I'm loving that!!

Gamera looking forward to seeing you B-29!!!

Lookin' good Stik!!!   Looking forward to seeing her all finished up.

Okay, okay... Pics are inbound.... Well as said before all the major markings are on. But I still have about a half zillion tiny stencil decals to apply.... And then touch up of colors, top coat, pro modeler wash... add final bits... But  nearing the finish line...

Thanks Vetteman and thanks again for hosting the GB.

Fantastic work going on here, congrads all around!

I'll toss in a Minicraft 1/72 Boeing B-29. It's a big plane even in 1/72 - about 16 inches/ 40 cm long with a wingspan of about two feet / 60 cm. I'd thought about using foil since with the flat wings and cigar shaped body the only complex curves are on the engine nacelles. But I've a bunch of Alclad II and I've had good luck with it so I think I'll give it a go.

I'll try to get some photos of the box and the kit parts posted soonish.

Julez72

 

Stik, sounds like your approaching the finish line.....we want pics

Well i started another Mustang, got her ready for paint and the P-38 is ready for an undercoat.....Pics soon...

Yeah Julez and Stik are both teasin us  wheres the pictures ??????????????

Gamera your Minicraft B-29 is in and most welcomed, really can't wait to see this build. Are you planning on using paint or foil ?

Rob, That is unusual, i reckon give it a wet sand and lay down a coat of future...If that doesn't work you may have to strip it

Jeremy, looking good buddy she's an interesting subject and a cool build to follow.....

Stik, sounds like your approaching the finish line.....we want pics

Well i started another Mustang, got her ready for paint and the P-38 is ready for an undercoat.....Pics soon...

No worries there my friend, the line is discontinued. If you don't have them already, you will pay a high price to get them. But in all fairness I do have say that they have excellent choices in subject matter. But their quality was just not what I expected. I was expecting a quick easy application of buzz numbers this afternoon, instead of the concentration for alignment it ended up requiring. 

Seperate buzz numbers!!??? What a PITA!!! Will definately be weary of Cutting Edge if I need to get them. Thanks Stik!

As of this afternoon, I have finished applying all the major markings on my F-84. All thats left to do are the kit supplied stncils and the MiG kill markings. I am not very impressed by the Cuting Edge brand decals I used. While supposedly scaled for this kit, many do not fit quite right, and the ones applied to compound curve areas are not responding well to the usual applications process of Micro Set and Micro Sol. Not to mention that the large "buzz numbers" for the nose were not in one piece, but rather individual letters, numbers, and dashes to be applied one at a time.  Hopefully by the end of this weekend I will have all the stencils applied and the decaling process complete.

Max I have never had that problem using alchohol with Tamiya paints so not much help there, however, I would think that if they are just flat sheen spots then a coat of future will bring everything in line with each other. If you have a test piece(old kit) try to create the same effects and see if a coat of future wil fix it, and if not, try different things to see if they will work. As mentioned though, you are using Tamiya paints, stripping will not be hard, just time consuming. HTH some!!

Maxfax not being one of the NMF paint experts here I have had the problem you are having with Tamiya paints. I found that the alcohol evaporates way too fast for the paint to self level. I have had much better luck thinning Tamiya paints with distilled or purified water in a 50/50 mix. I would guess if you buff or lightly sand the paint then future coat it that it would be fine, however I would suggest you wait on a few others to chime in before going to that trouble because I could be very wrong about that. I have stripped freshly painted parts that were painted with Tamiya acrylic paints with 91% alcohol and a bit of torn up t-shirt and q-tips with not much trouble at all.