Mighty 8th GB 1-Nov-2010 - 31-Oct-2011

DoogsATX No need to apologies, when it comes to stuff like that, the morethe better, really helps anyone else who might want to do somthing similar. Awsome work, somthing i think we are coming to ex[ect from your builds.

Hi all,

I just finished an F4F and am starting the Johnson P-47. I Think I'm getting better, the first kit (P-47 D) is a five footer The F4F is a three footer. Still struggling with this new world of plastic kits. Got to stop taking advice and putting that advice into practice until I try it out. Just destroyed all of the paint in the cockpit of the Bolt by trying a wash technique I hadn't used before... oh well. Anyone know how to remove setup enamel paint so I can start over?

Next up... The planes of the Cactus Air Force AM SBD 3, AM TBF 1-C, Tamiya F4F 4, AM P400, and Classic Airframes J 2F5 Duck

Did you by any chance use an oil wash over enamel paint. I did that last year. I just scrapped off the bubbeled paint and started again. But that was on armour. Looking forward to seeing some pics.

I used Poly Scale acryl over Model Master Enamel. Looking at the result, I think I'm going to leave it the way it is. It's sort of a distressed look. Pics of the cockpit later today. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures that is.

Next up... The planes of the Cactus Air Force AM SBD 3, AM TBF 1-C, Tamiya F4F 4, AM P400, and Classic Airframes J 2F5 Duck

Ok, i have not heard of that happening before, not sure why it woul,d have caused problems. I assume you have photobucket or somthing similar. When you write your post theres a symbol two to the right of the smiley face, looks like a film strip. Select that and add the link from your pictures.

I used Poly Scale acryl over Model Master Enamel. Looking at the result, I think I'm going to leave it the way it is. It's sort of a distressed look. Pics of the cockpit later today. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures that is.

Next up... The planes of the Cactus Air Force AM SBD 3, AM TBF 1-C, Tamiya F4F 4, AM P400, and Classic Airframes J 2F5 Duck

Yea, what Bish said....just upload your pics to photobucket or imageshack and then paste the direct link under the "insert media" button found on the tool bar when you write a reply

jbrady:  hearing about your experience with the thin wash is unsettling, since I've never heard of this happening--but the potential for disaster is the big reason why I don't even try weathering anymore.  I was just beginning to build up the nerve to consider weathering for this group build, but now I may rethink my rethinking. 

Could the thinning agent be responsible, maybe?  I've heard about using plain water with some dish drops added; also heard that denatured alcohol can be used for thin acrylic washes over enamel paint with no harm to the undercoat.

With all this talk of weathering, I think it might be a good time to mention that I'm going to be running a weathering group build in 2011. Planning to kick off in February.  

Hopefully it'll be a great place to practice and refine various techniques...

jbrady - What did you use to thin the acrylic? Can't speak for Poly Scale, and without seeing your results I can't even guess what happened, but I know a lot of acrylics can have separation issues if you thin them too much. Dishwasher soap is supposed to help, but I get around it by not using acrylics for washes.

I'm actually just coming off my first attempts at using oil washes on aircraft, and it came off really well. I'm using Winton & Newton oils with Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner over White Ensign enamels. Had zero problems with the base coat. Raw umber works very well for dirtying up undersides and lighter colors, and I found transparent white had a very nice fading/streaking effect on the topside. 

I took the "recipe" from an FSM article... I used 2 parts Poly Scale Acryl flat black, 5 parts water, and 3 or 4 drops of dish soap. I made sure to gloss coat all of the parts before the wash. After twenty minute the wash was rock hard and just wouldn't come off. When I scrubbed it with a tooth brush the wash and the under coat came off. I'm going to try more water and dish soap and I am going to try it on scrap this time.

Bish I know I told you picture would come today, but I can't find my macro lens. Just ordered a cheap macro from e-bay. I should have it later this week. will post pics as soon as I can.

Right now I have to work up the courage to drill out the clear gunsight so I can attach the ring sight that was on Johnson's plane... Anyone who is modeling a bolt should check references to see if that was a feature on the plane you are building. A lot of bolts had these attached to the reticulated gunsight.

DoogsATX A weathering GB sound slike a great idea. I only started useing oil washers last year, but i have confind it to armour as i think its a bit to heavy for aircraft.  I have been useing the Pro modeller weathering wash on my aircrfat lately, for the panels lines and to dirty them up a little. And if i want a dirtier look i use a chalk pastel wash.

jbrady No worries about the pics. been nice to see them when you can.

Bish - My oil washes actually came out very subtle. I think it's probably all in the thinning ratio. I was using a 1 oz. cup mostly full of thinner with a little dollop (what I could get up with a toothpick) of oil paint. I went a bit heavier with the transparent white. Brushed on with a wide, flat brush in the direction of airflow, it leaves an awesome streaking effect.

I'll definitely be going heavier when I try my hand at armor!

O ye, its deffo in the thinning, somthing i am still learning about. But also for me i only use Enamels for aircrfat, and i don't want to add another layer just to protect it, so i prefer to use something that won't damage the enamel.

That's something I've ben thinking about. I use enamel and everything I've read indicates that the wash has to be put down on a gloss coat. In my case, since I was shading the cockpit area, that means the base interior coat, a gloss coat, the wash, the detail painting, and then a dry brush coat. That's a lot of paint on some pretty fine and subtle detail in 1/48th scale. I guess it's mostly in the technique... just got to hone those skills. Now if I was an artist with an airbrush I wouldn't have this problem. Check out these effects http://www.accurate-miniatures.com/builds/avenger/avenger001.shtml

I wonder if acrylic craft paint like they sell (in the US) at places like Michael's would work--and not mess up enamels.  I might try some on an inconspicuous place, like the pilot/bombadier compartment--and if it doesn't work, return to my weathering moratorium.

I don't know how to use photo sharing sites. So... this is a test it is only a test if I wasted space and time... oh well.

I lost a couple of hours fairing in the wing pylons... as you can see I missed a couple of spots.

The hardest part was getting the angle right without the wings attached to the fuselage. That and rescribing lost detail.

Seems you got it right with the photos. Seems yo have done a good job there. Though its hard to tell if that left pylon is at a different angle to the right one or if its just the wings laying at different angles.

It's the angle of the wings on the bench. Glad I test fit those before I laid down the grey on the underside.

The fit of the wings is not the best. It must be something I'm dong wrong because this is the second time I've had this hapen with this kit.

Does anyone have any advice for attaching the flaps in the up position? The last time I did this I had a hell of a time getting the flaps attached.

All--Here are some WIP pics of the nose interior of the B-24D.  Working with PE in 1:72 is challenging to say the least.  I also noticed I knocked off the co-pilot's control wheel.  I hope I can find it. 

You sure did a nice job on the interior.   I cannot wait to buy a Big Ed kit for my B-24D but at 150 bucks it will have to wait until after Christmas.

I'm impressed. My 61-year-old eyes and fingers can barely handle PE in 1/48... nice job.

Hope everyone got to see the History Channels presentation of "Air War". It's part of the series WWII in HD. Chronicles the 8th from early 43 to the Normandy landings.

I just used a Big Ed set for my Hasegawa B-24J, a really nice set. One good thing about 72nd is that its a third of the price of those 48th sets. Really looking forward to seeing one of those big Liberators, mine take's uo most of my desk, so hope you got a big work space.

I asked the question yesterday if anyone knew of a way to get flaps on the Tamiya razorback to fit well if they were to be posed in the up position. I read a couple of reviews that indicated there was a problem with posing them in the up position. I had that problem in an earlier build. What I hit on is istalling the flaps in the wings before you glue the wing to the fuselage.

Looks like I'll have just a few minutes of seam clean-up but the flaps do fit pretty well... I know I have a lot of work on the centerline seam.

Cant...wait...much...longer!   I'm getting pretty excited to start my Liberator.  Seeing as how fast these P-47s are building, I may as well just do mine at the same time.  I'm gonna keep the aftermarket to a minimum on the B-24 and am rather gonna try out scratch building with styrene for the first time.  Theres a few reviews out there of people's scratched B-24 interior so I don't think it should be too hard, but ya never know.  In the meantime I came across a couple pictures of the bird I'm making.....

Early in her career

Shortly before conversion to a "carpetbagger"

Man...feels like my bench has slowed to a crawl over the past few days. Between futzing around with the Lightning and filling and sanding (and sanding) the Jug, it's been all work and what seems like no progress!

Fortunately I'm getting closer to priming and painting. Got the cowl painted up a few days ago, and did the detail work on the engine last night. With the Monogram, it's not an engine, per se, but a single drop-in piece that contains the engine face, crankcase, and the divider with flat, blank sections that lead off to the various intakes. The detail on the engine is surprisingly decent, but the single-piece design is kind of annoying when it comes to the painting.

Anyway, here it is all finished up.

Is that insigna red? I painted the cowling on my 47 last night with that and wondered if the color was a little off.

I quit. I've tried Para film, Micro Mask. pinstriping tape, masking tape, scotch tape, and now Tamiya tape... I cannot mask the clear parts. No matter what I try, I end up with an f-ing mess.

jbrady - it's Tamiya XF-4 Flat Red. 

As to your masking problems - have you tried bare metal foil? Just stick it on, burnish it down, trace the canopy frames with a scalpel blade, and pull the excess away. It's not exactly that easy, and you're eyes get crazy tired with complex canopies...but I've found it works way better than any other method I've tried.

Couldn't hurt to try that I suppose... nothing else works for me. What specific bolt are you doing? I noticed that it is one from the 56th group at Boxted. I'm doing one from 61 squadron when they were at Halesworth.