B-36 Peacemaker Group Build

Speaking of Wayne Wachsmuth, here is a buy it now listing on ebay set to expire in 3 hours that includes the B-36 book and a few others for $20 & about $5 shipping

www.ebay.com/.../221344243030

I think these are in that book but here is a diagram and some photos showing the differences between recon  and bomber types.

Hello lajntx. Are you insinuating anything? :)

I checked out the T.O. book. Good find.

A couple of days ago I was able to download from Scribd (for free) the full T.O. for the B-36H. It was in four parts. I have uploaded all four documents to SendThisFile.com. There are about 750 pages. If you click on the following link you can download the documents from SendThisFile.com (there is no cost or registration involved). The four files total about 350 MB. NOTE: THIS LINK EXPIRES IN 8 DAYS FROM JAN 5, 2014.

Click to download the documents:

https://www.sendthisfile.com/KD5vsAMk23H8lgdpiKWWn9zJ

 The four documents that will download are listed below.

70709709-1954-T-O-1B-36H-III-1-Flight-Handbook-USAF-Series-B-36H-III-Aircraft-Pt-1.pdf

70711045-1954-T-O-1B-36H-III-1-Flight-Handbook-USAF-Series-B-36H-III-Aircraft-Pt-2.pdf

70712718-1954-T-O-1B-36H-III-1-Flight-Handbook-USAF-Series-B-36H-III-Aircraft-Pt-3.pdf

70713413-1954-T-O-1B-36H-III-1-Flight-Handbook-USAF-Series-B-36H-III-Aircraft-Pt-4.pdf

Hi,

I am very interested in the YB-36 model that you are building. I flew on 42-13571 at Ramey when it was a RB-36E and also when it was later feather weighted. I would rly like to receive pics of your finished project if at all possible as they would be great to have as a memento of my B-36 days.

Thanks,

Roger

jeaton01

I think these are in that book but here is a diagram and some photos showing the differences between recon  and bomber types.

Thanks Jeaton, the other book didnt credit the drawing to Convair... which would make it public use, and with the last warning Finescale gave about using "copy righted" material.... I hesitate posting anything I personally dont own.... or know those whom do own it whom have already told me it was ok, or something already posted online with credit back to it. 

Something I have never fully understood is how 99% of all model builders are fixated with painting a bird that looks factory fresh off the assembly line? Dont get me wrong... with walkway stripes and all the other details added on the contrast looks very good, but  most 36`s after a few years in service either lost alot of that dark/shiney contrast due to painting or exposure to the elements.

Teutonic222

Hello lajntx. Are you insinuating anything? :)

Maybe. lol

I found out something else interesting the other day about The City of Ft Worth....

It too also is the current owner of a APG-32 rear radome cover, and not the dual cone APG-41A as depicted in the kit. To the best of my knowledge with the info I have.. ( and have read from other sources ) is once the J`s were sent to the boneyard in 1958/59 is that it was the first item physically taken off because it was a highly coveted part for other aircraft in service due to being quite expensive to buy new. I read that during the last Featherweight upgrade that any H that didnt come with the 41A from the factory was exempted from that upgrade due to the cost. Apparently either before it was retired it got a scavenged 32 series, or it was removed when being prepped for retirement as a "critcal part".

Here is a picture of it while being restored at PIMA

From:

http://www.ub88.org/researchprojects/b36peacemaker/thelastb36/the-last-b-36.html

lajntx, Yeah, now my problem is trying to figure out the best way to model the double-wide radome. Modeling putty doesn't seem to be the best way and I don't have a vacuform.

FYI for all. For any of you interested in adding airplugs to the nacelles (something I'd like to do), I found what I believe is the perfect solution. Precision Metals makes a brass tube 19/32" OD x 0.014" wall thickness. It is Stock #142 and I found it at Ace Hardware for $3.29. It is in the section in Ace Hardware stores that sell what I consider to be modeling brass rod, tube and sheet.  

I measured the I.D. of the nacelles and they nominally came out to 0.595". The tube is 0.5938" OD. It slides in perfectly and is very thin wall. The tube is 12 inches long. I like the idea of having the airplugs extended a bit and adding the diamond markings. It adds a little detail to an overly bland silver aircraft.

I agree with the copyright issues too. Regarding my posting for downloading the T.O.'s, those are all public domain, so download away.

You dont necessarily have to model it that way since it came with the dual dome radomes that had no other rival until Cadillac had those iconic " `59 bumper darts"  based off of something else. ;-)

I have some paint questions if anyone knows the answers. I've seen photos of the Pima aircraft and have been up close and personal with the WPAFB aircraft, but I don't trust the paint finishes I see. Were the props and white thermal paint flat, semi-gloss or gloss originally?

Also, did the props have the Curtiss logos on them from the factory, as well as numbers on the nacelles and flaps. The Wachsmuth book shows nacelle and flap numbers, but I don't see them in any other photos. Did they just wear off in time from weather and sunlight. And I see some photos with the Curtiss prop logos (and most aircraft from WWII showed off Curtiss or Hamilton Standard prop logos, but I don't see them in many photos. Again, did they just wear or fade out or are the photos just not picking them up?

Can I put a big grill on the front too?

Aves EpoxySculpt or Milliput would work well for making that radome.

The pictures I posted are from the Dennis Jenkins book.  The drawing and the photos are from Convair.

Teutonic222

I have some paint questions if anyone knows the answers. I've seen photos of the Pima aircraft and have been up close and personal with the WPAFB aircraft, but I don't trust the paint finishes I see. Were the props and white thermal paint flat, semi-gloss or gloss originally?

Also, did the props have the Curtiss logos on them from the factory, as well as numbers on the nacelles and flaps. The Wachsmuth book shows nacelle and flap numbers, but I don't see them in any other photos. Did they just wear off in time from weather and sunlight. And I see some photos with the Curtiss prop logos (and most aircraft from WWII showed off Curtiss or Hamilton Standard prop logos, but I don't see them in many photos. Again, did they just wear or fade out or are the photos just not picking them up?

The white anti flash was more flat than it was gloss. Also it was applied free hand, and not masked with a nice crease line as you see on both museum craft. The props.... You are on your own there. 

I looked at some of my books and photos. From every one I can see from the XB to the last J all craft while at the factory had logos on the props. Those probably wore off after delivery in the field. The A & B`s had large Nancelle numbers since those were more "trainer" aircraft. The D`s through the J`s had smaller numbers, and with age and wear doubtfully would show up on a picture. It is important to keep in mind that the museums while wanting to present as close to historically acturate display as possible... They dont have the time or resources to recreate every single detail, and thus the really minor  ones arent redone unless they ( here I go again with my corporat-ese speak ) add " measurable real value " 

Hey all,

I'm glad to see this GB is still active... its been what, two years at least. My bird sat for a while, it made it through a baby and a move and i'm now finally trying to finish it off.

Anyway, thanks for the quick responses to the mag/alum location question!

I'm using metalizers to paint it and i was concerning myself with how to mask because i've used the buffing colors before and masking with tape is a horrible idea.

here's what i found on the Testors website. Wet masking with news paper. never thought of this, has anyone had any experience with it? i'm going to give it a go either way.

thought this would be good info to share in case others are on the fence about which paint to use.

"Due to the unique nature of Metalizer coatings, the use of standard-tack masking tape is not recommended.  Low-tack tape can be used successfully on non-buffing colors.  Here’s another way to mask.  To achieve a “dissimiliar” panel effect – as on aircraft models – cut newspaper into strips and soak in water.  Outline the area to be painted with wet strips.  Soak up all water droplets with a tissue, then lightly airbrush or spray paint the area.  Remove paper and soak up water drops.  Allow to dry then buff as usual.  Note: when using the “wet masking” technique, best results are achieved by spraying dark colors first.  Then, after placing the masking strips, airbrush the lighter colors."

-Andy

Here is some interesting info

go to page 28 & 29 of this book

http://www.scribd.com/doc/52188705/Convair-B-36-Peacemaker-a-Photo-Chronicle

You can see actual logos on the props as well as nancelle numbers on an early A model

John, Thanks for the EpoxyScultp and Milliput tip. Maybe the APG-32 radome should be another tip to Chris at Click2detail.

I've starting putting paint to model, beginning with the crew. I've made some figure mods: 1) replacing the pilot's arm with one sawed off of an engineer so he looks like he's controlling the throttles; 2) moved the navigator's arm inwards a bit in order to fit without hitting the canopy; 3) tipped the radar operator's head down to be looking into the "scope", and; 4) conducted some foot and butt removal of the radio men so they will fit between the seats and radio bulkhead.

I've also been doing some interior photo examination in order to paint more interior details (who knows how much will actually be visible once done).

I've also been updating the homemade decal sheet with cockpit side panel details and airplug diamonds, as well as the nacelle and flaps numbers and bomb crane holes (shown previously). Everything is sized to print on 5.5 x 8.5 decal sheet. The problem, of course, is how to handle the white areas of the cockpit panels without an Alps printer. I'm afraid the only way is to either print on white decal sheet and trim (good luck with that) or print on clear sheet and paint white in the areas that need a white background before applying the decal (my intended choice).

Sorry, my pasted in image didn't work. Here it is

Decal question. I have the 1989 Monogram model (#5707). The decal sheet (shows the triangle J and circle X) has 18 small notices in white text. The Monogram instruction sheet does not indicate where they belong. Even under a magnifying glass I cannot read the notices. Does anybody know where these decals are supposed to go? Since there are 18 of them, it would seem they should go on the prop blades, but other than the Curtiss logos, I can't think what notices would go on the props.

On your instruction sheet on step #47 for decal # ZZ -- they go on the prop blabes with the curtis logo... Looks like the kits give you 18 when you only need 6.

Here is a copy of the same type of  stencil on blade painted in yellow ( Not a B-36 )

answers.yahoo.com/.../index

Hello lajntx,

My instruction sheet doesn't show any decal call outs, just illustrations --- and they're all wrong (i.e. illustrations don't match the decal sheet).  So, only one set of those notices per 3-blade propeller and the notice is near the propeller root? Correct?

Actually, now that I look at the instruction sheet, it shows Kit # 5703. So, apparently somebody switched instruction sheets between kits because my box is #5707.

Here you go:

Looks like maybe you are supposed to put 1 on each blade since it gave you 18 ( 6 props X 3 bades each = 18 ) though the instruction sheet only shows the 1

my 5707 sheet is showing 18 each of the curtis logos, and spec stencils. So it has to mean both on each blade

Yeah, I was figuring it would ultimately need to have one on each blade since each blade on the real aircraft could be replaced.

BTW, I don't know if you saw my message, but do you want any of my 2mm bomb sight microbeads? They are clear spheres that should be reasonably accurate for the bomb sight on later model B-36s when they added the sight just forward of the nose wheel and a bit off center (starboard).

If anybody has the Revell Germany B-36 decal sheet that has lots of the notices, would you be willing to scan it and the related decal positioning instructions -- and send it to me via "messages"?

I'm continuing to create more decal details for cockpit instrumentation and electronics, as well as other missing tidbits such as airplug diamonds, nacelle and flap numbers. I want to add what I understand to be additional details that were included on the Revell Germany sheet, such as "cut here" labels. I will ultimately make the Photoshop and JPEG versions of the document available to whomever wants to print it out on their own inkjet or laser decal sheet.

Alright, I've been away from the bench (and this GB) for way too long!  Decided to try and finish the paint removal, copious sanding & filling to get this bird done.  Shot some primer and found LOTS of warts and battle damage from my first go, so……… I'll be doing some plastic surgery (face lift really, not as significant as Nancy P's ) to get this in shape for some paint.

Hey Reasoned,  Looks good. That light gray finish makes it look like the forerunner to today's B-52Hs. Good luck with the repaint.

Hey All,

I just learned that Click2detail is starting work on the landing-gear-deployed-for-landing parts. These will represent the drooped look of the main gear prior to touchdown and more accurately resemble a B-36 in flight or, in most of our cases, hanging from the ceiling.

I'm also hoping Chris at Click2detail will produce the wide aft -32A antenna used on late model B-36s.

He is supporting our hobby well with the recent addition of the Featherweight blister plugs and now (soon) drooped landing gear, so I encourage anyone that plans on modeling these versions to give him some business.

Do any of you guys know which squadron the last B-36 (#2827) was associated? I know it's last home was the 95th Bombardment Group (Heavy), but was it in the 334th, 335th or 336th squadron? I also know it was the guys with the red baseball caps (the blue and yellow caps would belong to the other two squadrons).

I am nearly finished painting my crew, but want to add the appropriate patch to their right shoulder (albeit it is mainly composed of small paint dots at 1/72 scale). I just bought Don Pyeatt's "Saving the Last Peacemaker" CD (hasn't arrived yet), but I'm hoping maybe it will tell me. I posted the request on the Delphi Forums B-36 forum, but no response yet.

Hi,  I don't the squadron number that 2827 was assigned to, but just wanted to add the comment that I don't remember ever having a shoulder patch on our flight suits. Maybe the 95th BW might of had them but I am pretty sure that we didn't have any in the 7th BW at Carswell.

Roger