B-36 Peacemaker Group Build

So John, was that the group photo shot with the people standing on the wing, or some USAF barnstorming/wingwalking stunt using a B-36? :)  You've got to admit, with a 230 ft wingspan, it would take wingwalking to a whole new level.

I think it was just a bunch of enlisteds watching the airshow.  Best seats in the house, no doubt.  The show was in honor of the first B-52 officially coming to the base.

Those are static pressure air vents for the pitot system.  You'll find their like on every aircraft.

Hello Ray:

Thanks. That makes sense.

Hi All,

I may have posted this in this group build forum before (and definitely did in the Delphi B-36 forum), so please forgive me, but I'm still having trouble tracking down any information on this subject: THE STUPID LADDER.

Once the nose landing gear door opens, what happens to the ladder? During landing and taxiing the ladder is not visible. Once the aircraft was parked, and personnel were exiting via the nose gear bay, the photos show the ladder extending below the nose gear doors. This is the way the B-36 kit is made -- ladder in full extended mode. But somehow, the ladder is not fully extended during landing and taxiing.

I saw an older B&W video that shows a worms eye view of a B-36 taxiing directly over the camera. In that view (all 1 second of it) it appears that the bottom half of the ladder is flush to the top of the nose gear bay (Note: the ladder in the kit appears to replicate a ladder that is constructed in two parts). The issue with what I see in the movie is that I can't figure out: 1) what happens to the top part of the ladder (the narrower section) and; 2) what happens to the lower section (the one where the bottom has a taper).

Primer question...

I know that anyone shooting Alclad is told to use a black primer. I'm going to use more standard metallic paints for durability (Testor's, Tamiya, Dupli-color -- not sure which ones yet). Any suggestions on whether to use white, gray or black primer to get the best metallic effects.

And, do you recommend spraying viewing rattle cans or decanting and airbrushing? Not sure how much detail I'll lose on the B-36 if I spray via rattle cans, if any. For such a big model, the rattle cans do seem to have some advantages (maybe).

Sorry, previous post meant to say "...spraying USING rattle cans..." rather than viewing rattle cans.

Teut, I used Model Masters Metalizers "non buffing" (Aluminum, Stainless Steel & Magnesium) from rattle cans over a Tamiya gray primer.  They went down just fine.  Now if you want a real shiny finish for the pressurized portion of the fuselage, then you may want to consider the buffed version to get that nice mirror like finish.  But I found the MMM paint from rattle cans worked fine and shot it right from the can, no decanting needed.

Thanks Reasoned. I have a piece of scrap plastic that I'll try different paints on and see how the turn out. Heading overseas for a couple of weeks on business. Hopefully when I get back the weather has improved so I can spray the samples outdoors.

Hey All,

Chris at Click2detail.com just completed the main landing gear with the proper droop when in flight. So, for those of you hanging your model with the gear down as in flight, these drop in replacements make the wheel bogies look correct. You can see them here: www.click2detail.com/.../B-36_Landing_Gear_%28In-flight_position%29.html

Black rectangle info. I received a reply in a B-36 forum regarding the black rectangles on the underside of the wings that can be seen in photo. Here was the response.

"They are installation instructions for the self-sealing pads under the fuel tanks. There was no room for them inside the wing, so they were added on the lower surface. I'm not certain, but I believe that the front and back faces were also sealed by pads, but the tops were not.

During the 'Featherweight' program they were removed, as the rubber would be so cold and brittle after hours of cold-soaking at altitude it would shatter when hit and be ineffective.

Each pad had the installation instruction decal on it near the leading edge; it carried size and length data for the attaching screws which were length-critical. Since the inboard tanks are used first (to relieve wing bending moments) they would be empty prior to arrival in the target area and were therefore judged to not require self-sealing.

I have not yet been able to locate a photo that shows this to any degree - anybody out there got one?"

So, if you don't have a Featherweight B-36 model, it sounds like you should paint or add black rectangular decals to the wing undersides. The Monogram model has some raised rectangles where they belong.

I tested out  some rattle can colors the other day. I was trying to find an alternative to Alclad2 and MM Metalizers in order to avoid the potential challenges with both products. I was mostly concerned with handling issues with MM Metalizer. I used a base coat of Dupli-Color sandable primer. I was a little concerned it would go on heavy because it is an automotive paint. But, it went on very lightly. I was impressed. I then shot Dupli-Color Chrome, Dupli-Color Stainless Steel, MM Chrome, MM German Silver Metallic, and Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating. I then also shot Clear Flat over the MM Chrome.

The results:

Dupli-Color Chrome and MM Chrome look virtually identical in color. The MM Chrome has an ever-so-slightly higher sheen.

Dupli-Color Stainless Steel has a gray color that is darker than I would chose for stainless steel and shows a distinctive metal flake appearance in direct lighting. Inappropriate for the B-36 exterior, but actually looks a lot like sand cast iron.

MM German Silver Metallic has a color very close to magnesium, but it looks metal flake in direct lighting. Dupli-Color Wheel Coating is heavily metal flake.

MM Chrome with Clear Flat looks very much like magnesium, in my opinion.

I think I will move forward with a gray primer, then mask some areas and spray with black primer to get a little variation in some of the panels. I then plan to use Dupli-Color or MM Chrome for the aluminum and mask and spray clear flat for the magnesium. I'll use MM Metalizer (probably Anodonic Gray) for the walkways. I not so concerned about handling the walkway areas since they aren't in a "touch" zone. I'll use Stain White of some brand for the anti-thermal paint. I know it is supposed to be gloss white to be accurate, but gloss paints on model aircraft sometimes make them look toy-like.

I'm still on the hunt for a scanned image of a Revell Germany decal sheet and instruction sheet (for decal placement). I want to add any of the extra details that the Revell Germany sheet had to the decal sheet I'm creating. As mentioned before, when done I'll send the Adobe Illustrator or PDF file to anyone who wants one to add extra details (e.g. airplug markings, more cockpit electronic panels, bomb crane ports).

I received the goodies from Click2detail.com. The photos below show the blister plugs for Featherweight B-36s. I only plan to use the top four and leave the bottom two with the blisters, but took photos so you can see them in all blister positions. As I understand it, it was common for Featherweight air commanders to want the gunsight blisters in the lower ports so the scanners have a good view of the engines, airplugs, flap position and main landing gear.

The plugs from Click2detail are clear resin and only cost $2.95 each. They have some ribbing or waviness to them, but with just a little work you can get  the window portion nice and clear and wave free. I wet sanded the exterior and interior with 600 grit and then 2000 grit sandpaper. Getting inside the blister plugs is a little tough, so I glued a small disc of sandpaper on the end of a dowel rod. Then I followed up with polishing them with Brasso, then Plastic Wax by Apsen, and a final dip in Future. They came out very good. I'll end up masking the interior and exterior rectangular windows and painting both sides, leaving the windows clear.

Depending on which blister position you will mount them, you will want to do some light sanding on the interior of the fuselage so they set flush to the outside of the fuselage. They are very close to flush, but due to the varying thickness of the fuselage sections (interiors), a little filing or sanding will get them closer to flush. It is now a lot easier to model Featherweights.

Howdy Reasoned, nice job on the B-36! Yes old Magoo is still alive but the computer almost died a horrible death, got it back up and running, A change in internet provider also through a 48 inch pipe wench into the gear train. Things now seem to work O-k. My list of projects not related to model building have piled up on me (the summer  train wreck of work to do) you know. It is good to see ya'll exchanging information because ya'll are getting things answered that I was wondering about and informing me of things I didn't know. Maybe some day I can pass along some tid-bits of information. I'm watching, Magoo

Hi All: I think I finally figured out the nose gear bay ladder problem that has been dogging me. I wanted the nose gear ladder stowed, but the landing gear bay open. From photos and the SAC movie, it is quite apparent the ladder is not extended until after touchdown and parking. I saw a very brief write-up in the B-36D T.O. manual that gave enough hints. Based on what I think is then the only option, it appears the narrow part of the ladder is mounted to the bulkhead and hinged near the hatch. The slightly wider part of the ladder (the part one sees hanging below the landing gear door), hinges to the narrow portion of the ladder. Both parts swing up when not in use. The narrow ladder would sit again the hatch door and the wide ladder swings up flush with the top of the gear bay. Some careful X-acto cutting separated the ladder into two portions. I then bent the wide portion a little bit (mimicking what appears to be a slight bend from photos). I needed to trim off one set of rungs on the narrow ladder to get it to fit right. Hopefully I'm close and now the ladder can be properly viewed from below while hanging from the ceiling. Photos below. Note: the flat piece of stock was used to cover up holes where I removed the front seats and puttied the holes. I'm only using two seats. The larger white plastic pieces were added to straighten the cockpit floor and hold it in position (it had a slight curve to it).

Hi All:

I was just watching a short video on the B-36 Featherweight program at www.youtube.com/watch  Beginning at 1:55 in the video shows the snap action bomb bay doors closing. I notice a few things.

1.There is a notice on the doors. Does anybody know what it says? Were they on all the doors, fore and aft? Were they on the half sections of the doors? Any help would be appreciated.

2. There also appears to be a notice between the doors and just above the spot between the doors. Does anyone know what it says?

3. There is some sort of small circular thingy and a larger circular thingy in between the doors. Does anybody know what they are? Colors?

Sorry for my incessant questions. Unfortunately nobody shot the video in HD.

Hi Teut,

I just now noticed your post of Fri Apr 11 regarding Don Pyeatt's DVD that showed various notices stenciled on the aircraft. I believe that these were added by the restorers while in Ft. Worth to provide an explanation of the various items being looked at by the viewers. To my knowledge they never appeared on any of the aircraft while they were in service, at least not on any of them that I have seen. Also, I don't think the red outline was there either, but I can't say for sure as I was never on top of the aircraft.

Best Regards,

Roger    

Teut,

I just read your post of Sun, Jan 5 2014 regarding the type of white paint used on the featherweights. I came across the following info regarding the type of anti-thermal paint being used. "The  Gloss White Enamel paint conformed to MIL-E-7729, Type I". Hope this answers your question OK.

Roger

Roger,

Thanks for both reports. That helps. I think I am beginning to run out of questions.

Has anybody figured out a good way to model the following items:

1. Pitot tubes. I know stretch sprue will work, but I am thinking a bent nail brad would hold up better.

2. Antennas for the ECM ports. I can fake it with brads again, but the antennas are actually more oval in shape (actually more teardrop shaped, but I'm not getting that picky at this scale)

3. The two posts that jut out from the fuselage that hold the antenna wires that connect to the vertical stabilizer. I intend to use E Z Line. It is 0.003" diam slightly elastic string that works great for aircraft antenna wire. I will drill a hole in the vertical stab and insert two ends and fasten with CA glue. The two current options are: 1) sand off the posts, drill a hole in the fuselage, insert the thread and glue or; 2) tie the thread to the existing posts (and glue). I'm not crazy about either solution. I would like to find a very small diameter metal tube, bend it, drill a hole in the fuselage and fasten the bent tube in the hole, then insert the thread into the other end of the bent tube and glue it in place. However, the smallest tube I can find is 1/16-inch O.D. (much too big). Anybody have any good solutions?

Hi Guys,

Check out this neat aftermarket B-36 detail item here:

www.hannants.co.uk/.../PAVU72156

How cool is this?!  I think I'll have to buy one for my B-36 kit (since I haven't started it yet!)

-Derek

Wow. Wonder why it took so long for someone to finally make that kit. Too bad I'm building a Featherweight. It would have looked nice on my model.

Hey Tuet,

Have you looked at the plastic dental picks as a possible source for the ECM antennas? The shape seems about right and you may be able to find the pieces you need near the sharp end of the pick if they turn out to be close to the correct scale.

Roger

Hey Derek,

That is just great. I will have to ask Teutonic222 if he will be willing to install one in my completed kit.

Thanks for the info,

Roger

John,

I actually finished earlier than Reasoned but was too ashamed to put any pictures of my model it on this site. You guys have skills way beyond my capabilities and I'm sure you would all have had a great laugh at my finished product. At least I managed not to get my fingers stuck together too many times. I do have to hand it to you guys for your skills and attention to details. For myself, I just wanted a model to hang in my rec room as I used to be B-36 crew member many years ago. So I did get it glued together without too many pieces left over. Which was a great accomplishment in itself. It has been very interesting reading all your comments on this site. And if there is any prize available for the first to actually finish, be sure to let me know (chuckle).

Best regards to all,

Roger

Roger, anyone who completes that beast wins....no matter what it looks like.

Roger,

I think you did a fine job. I'm still constantly intimidated by the quality of work I see on the forums and in the FS Modeler magazine, but it gives me ideas and teaches me some skills that I don't have. Plus, you actually finished it. I'll feel great if I get mine done this year. Sometimes the focus on superdetailing can take away from the pure pleasure of just getting a model done and admiring it ... and moving onto the next model.

Hi All,

I was looking back through old B-36 photos and discovered a set of antenna wires I hadn't noticed before. We're probably all familiar with the long antenna wires from the sides of the fuselage up to the edge of the vertical stabilizer. My B-36H T.O. manual states one was for the AN/APN-9A Loran Set and the other was for the AN/ARC-8 Liaison Set. Then there is another shorter antenna wire from a short shaft aft of the rear top gun turrets door stretching to about one-third up the vertical stabilizer. The T.O. manual says this is for the AN/ARN-6 Radio Compass (Sense). The little bulge on the top of the fuselage just in front of the short shaft is the AN/ARN-6 Radio Compass (Loop).

What I am also seeing in three different photos of aircraft 22827 (the last B-36) is what appear to be antenna wires stretching from the top of each horizontal stabilizer (maybe two-thirds of the way out to the tip) and attaching to an area that looks like it could be the lower portion of the rudder (that would make no sense to me), the portion of the vertical stabilizer just below the rudder, or near (or across) the top of the AN-APG-32 radar set (i.e. the tail gun radar). Has anyone else seen this? Are they antenna wires? Does anyone have any further information on them?

Hey All:

I found a way to produce B-36 pitot tubes and antenna mounts. Sorry for the long message below, but I’m providing full instructions.

I was struggling with how I wanted to fasten the two long antenna wires (Loran and HF Comm) from the vertical stab to the fuselage mounts and the short antenna (Radio Compass Sensing) from the vertical stab to the mount on top of the fuselage. I intend to use EZ-line, but didn’t want to put a drop of glue on the plastic knobs that stick out from the sides of the kit fuselage (especially because they don't look accurate) or even on a new rod I would install. The kit doesn’t even provide a knob or anything for the Radio Compass Sensing wire attachment.

I found that a 22G x 1 ½ (0.7mm x 40mm) syringe needle does the trick. You can buy the complete syringe or just the syringe needles at Walgreens for $0.25 each with no prescription needed. I recommend buying at least one complete syringe with needle – It’s easier to hold for the work I’m describing below, and then extra needles as needed..

I trimmed off the pointy part of the needle, then filed the end of the needle square. I then grip the end of the newly trimmed and filed needle in a pair of pliers with teeth, letting the needle rest inside the teeth channels, making sure the pliers do not actually grip the needle. This was important so as not to crush the syringe needle. I then bent the needle at 90 degrees and trimmed the length as needed to mount inside a drilled hole in the fuselage. Now I have an antenna mount with a look that is very close to that on the B-36. The difference is that the B-36 mount is somewhat T-shaped, but I’ll live with my L-shaped version. Now I can slip the end of the EZ-line thread into the syringe hole and put a drop of CA glue to hold it in place, then attach the other end of the line to a hole in the vertical stab.

To make a pretty realistic pitot tube I use the same technique with two modifications. First, I file the cut end of the syringe flat and then round/bevel the edges. After I bend the needle 90 degrees, I place the shaft portion of the pitot tube in a vise grip (smooth portion) or a vise (smooth portion) and crush the syringe flat. If you look at photos of the B-36 pitot tube, my syringe version is very close in appearance.

I think the best part of both versions is that the syringe needles are strong, so they won’t snap off like plastic versions due to fat thumbs when handling the model.

The parts are made by BD in Franklin Lakes, NJ. Yes, the company name is “BD.” If you want to buy some go to the Walgreens prescription counter and ask for either BD part no. 309574 (for the whole syringe and needle) or BD part no. 305156 for just the needle. You will probably need two of them to make the three antenna wire mounts and two pitot tubes, as long as you don’t screw any up. BTW, the needles clip easily with wire cutters, file easily, and bend without snapping.