Marc -- your prep work is absolutely outstanding, it makes me want to tackle a non-zimmed subject (though I once read that only a handful of early KTs were built without it and all the Porsche turret unuits would have been zimmed.)

Wish you could get Bondo in Aus, it's anther staple like Future that we have to get by without...

Mike/TB379

Guys, no probs with the hull numbers info.  I've been scrutinizing that aspect for my build quite a bit for my Tunisian Tiger, sometimes I think I'm all set, then other times I'll consider another set of numbers.

Just an addendum  for the 1944 organization table, found this web page dedicated to Schwere PanzerJager 654 and it indicates only three platoons per company.  This also collaborates with the table found here for a 1944 Tiger battalion.  So for the little chart I had previously posted, eliminate the fourth platoon and bolster up the remaining platoons with a 4th vehicle each.

Marc - excellent prep work on the KT.

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Small update from the bench - shields attached to one side.  I first drew a straight line, then used the original one piece kit part to get the drop angle of the shields.  I also ended up removing the s-mine brackets on the hull roof.  These were installed beginning of January 1943 so were not present in the first batch of Tigers sent to North Africa.

regards,

Jack

Marc, looking great!

Dave, I'm gonna experiment.

Oh, and on the tow shackles.....uh, I wanted to depict something with a very short service life, hadn't broken down or gotten bogged down or been used to tow anything else, hence un-used shackles, cables, etc.

Armor86, awesome detail.

Eric, take your pick (or pic?) (Now that I've checked, I like that pic, thanks)

A86, looks so nice.

Eric, I probably have some extra number 'round here somewhere   What numbers would you prefer and what color do the need to be w/ or w/o a border?  Happy to take a look for you.

Welds...

There will be a lot of welds and torch cutting m,arks to add. I started on the turret. There was the faintest hint of a weld around the top that was filed out, masked with some Jammydog tape and welded.

Wheels...

Axles aligned, wheels sanded and mounted temporarily.

WTF?...

The pivoting arm for the idler, part B1, has no way to mount to the hull. I would have thought that something would go ion form the inside of the hull to make the adjustable pivot. Is that "barley there" ring on the arm supposed to go in that gigundo hole? It doesn't really fit to well and hardly seems it would take the tension of the tracks.

I used a piece of Bare Metal foil to mask the outside eof the MG blister. If any of you non-aircraft type have not sen this stuff it is great for masking since it burnishes down perfectly and irregular shapes can be cut out easily.

I've started on some of the hot rolled steel look. I thinned the Bondo glazing compound to a consistency of paint ready to be sprayed and stippled like I was doing a casting texture. Only thing different was to sand most of it off. It will show better when it's primed.

Thanks Jack. That's what I was thinking. So two numbers would also be incorrect. Rats.

armor - the jack block came out quite good. The sanding to get the molded on bracket even makes it look like wood grain. 

Jack - great info, thanks for the links... this is something I never paid much attention in the past, but am much more conscientious of doing correctly now.   

Hi Eric,

Other than photo evidence for a particular hull  number, I guess the other option is to rely on basic German organization charts.

A heavy tank hunter battalion was composed of three companies with 14 vehicles each, and three vehicles for battalion HQ, according to here:  http://www.achtungpanzer.com/panzerjager-v-jagdpanther-sd-kfz-173.htm#high_3

In that regard, the first number could only be 1,2, or 3.   I'm not quite sure how it breaks down after that  in terms of number of platoons and number of vehicles per platoon.  If they followed the heavy tank battalion structure, then you'd end up with 4 platoons with three vehicles each.  So example numbers for the first company would be:

111, 112, 113

121, 122, 123

131, 132, 133

141, 142, 143

Two vehicles likely assigned to company HQ,  so their number would either be 101 or 102 for the first company.

Tried this other site, but reading it is like preparing a tax return, lol.

www.lonesentry.com/.../index.html

regards,

Jack

I'm working on the markings right now. I'm going with a ficticious 505 number. That is all I have in my spare cartiograf decals. My guess is the number is much too high. Does anyone know the number range?

RBaer, I love that last shot of the KT, so I might use that one. Thanks again for presenting a uniquely cool scheme. Job well done.

Armor, those are nice close-ups. What camera do you use?

RBaer - KT turned out great ... camo painting and weathering effects look cool ... several other outstanding work going on with GB ... wife has me busy working around the house the last week or so. ... not getting much bench time, did get wood block PE finished photos below. Outdoor camp this weekend with Scouts .... Armor86 

It looks great RBaer. Really a neat subject and a cool paint job. It definitely looks like it's been crunching through some city rubble. 

If I may ask... what's the story with the pristine tow shackles?

One last photo tip: If your camera has an aperture variable setting (Av) you can use that to close (F = higher) the aperture and get a greater depth of field. The higher the F setting, the greater the depth of field - but also the slower the shutter speed. Works especially well for the front to back, back to front shots. The Av setting will allow you to choose the F stop and will set the shutter speed needed automatically. I usually shoot ~F18 and with the lighting setup I've got, which isn't that great. It requires a shutter speed ~1/4 s. So a tripod is quite helpful, as well as a remote trigger or time delayed shot to eliminate shaking. 

I'll try that Jack, sounds like a good idea.

Tojo, Gamera, thanks. This scheme was totally new for me, makes me think an ambush scheme might be fun.

I took some pics outdoors today, much better. Eric, these are "Official Finished Pics".

I'm going to continue to check this GB, lots of neat work going on.

Thanks, all.

Yes, that "octo" scheme is unique - really hope you can get the best possible photo.

I've seen it mentioned before, maybe not here, but to decrease the severity of camera flash, tape a piece of tissue over flash lens.  The images will be slightly darker, but you should be able to lighten them up in photoshop.

regards,

Jack

Beware the octopus!!!

Love her! The ring camo looks great and the worn, weathered, rusty looks super realistic!

Thats a real nice KT Russ,the weathering is great,and I like that octo camo

RBaer

Jobs do get in the way......

I'm still trying to get decently lit pics, gonna wait till tomorrow and go outdoors. All my shots of the whole tank are dark w/o the flash and washed out with it. I do have one or two detail shots of the finished model that came out okay, that's it. I kind of like this one:

I know how hard it is to take good pics. Mine never turn out well. I swear my old Kodak 3.2 pixel camera took better pics then my Sony Cybershot.

BTW, looking good Rbaer. I really like the octopus camo on her. 

This one is okay too. Photobucket has some interesting editing capabilities.......

I played around with my p-bucket, got one a little cleaner. Eric, if you'd like use this one for my finished pic.

Jobs do get in the way......

I'm still trying to get decently lit pics, gonna wait till tomorrow and go outdoors. All my shots of the whole tank are dark w/o the flash and washed out with it. I do have one or two detail shots of the finished model that came out okay, that's it. I kind of like this one:

Marc, I used to have that kit, but since I finished a Jagdtiger recently , I decided it was slightly redundant and sold it. Sort of bummed that I did, but I already had built 3 KT's in my lifetime. Time for something different. That doesn't mean that i won't be following your toot with much interest.

Well, I'm slothing away on the tools and such. Been really tired from work this week, so I doubt i'll get as much done as i'd like. Now I have to work Saturday as well.  Doesn't my job realize that I need to get my kitty finished?

And so it begins, the official 1st photos.

This is the kit and the PE that will be used. I may add some Friuls to the mix. And when I say "may" that usually means that if I even get the slightest inkling of the though... it's a forgone conclusion.

I've at least got the box open, sprues organized (for the moment) and starting in on the wheels and axles. It would be nice if there was a nice tight mount to get the wheels all lined up to reduce the chance of "floaters" later on. Shouldn't be hard to be precise. But WHOA that's a lot of play. I am guessing 1 of 2 scenarios... Dragon screwed up or they are allowing for changes in position in the even you are doing a dio and there a rock or tree limbs under the track.

Greg - no harm no foul.  All five books I checked have that special set of camou insignia starting at the rank of unteroffizer or the SS equivalent.  It can be a bit confusing as their system has corporals rated as both enlisted men and one as an nco, so maybe something got mixed up in the translation.  

Only info found on the chevron type rank insignia (concerning the regular army ) was that it was in use by the end of December 1920.   The only exceptions where it could not be worn were motorcyclist's overcoats, shirts worn as an outer garment, camouflage, and winter clothing.  

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Dave - you got me thinking again (and that's a good thing - thanks!), so did more research on the starter adapter plate.  I knew there was some variations in Tigers sent to Africa, and now found out there are specific differences between the two battalions' tanks.

The vertical positioning, as seen on the captured Bovington Tiger, was characteristic of 504th and their rounded exhaust shields.  The 501st had the angled type shields with vents, and the starter plate should be as I originally had placed it.  So off it comes again, but that's alright since I have to scratch build the pair of post it sits on - Tamiya  omitted these.

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regards,

Jack

Wow,  lots of fine work going on.

This is my "nights" week, so I am making it a priority task to get some good "finished" pics taken.

Marc, do you feel embarassed at all, to crank out such fine work so fast? I'm lucky to finish four models in a year......

jgeratic1

Greg - on my way to work, so don't have time to check further references for the ranks. 

Jack & et al: I just learned a very valuable lesson....CHECK MY REFERENCES BEFORE spouting off!

Sorry guys, the diagram is correct.  The titles of Unterfeldwebel & Unteroffizier kind of threw me.

BTW, if any of you are interestied in the German military (aka Wehrmacht), I strongly recommend getting the U.S. War Department's HANDBOOK ON GERMAN MILITARY FORCES.

now back to our regularly scheduled.......

Again, what can I say? Just great work guys! 

And: 

Greg - on my way to work, so don't have time to check further references for the ranks.  As I understand it, the new style of rank insignia was intended for nco's and officers. As it was, Gefreiter and Obergefreiter already had sleeve insignia, the single and double chevron respectively.  This too I will need to check if it was allowed on winter clothing, etc.  One thing I should mention is the SS officially adopted these new style ranks in February 1943.

regards,

Jack

jgeratic1

Jack & et al...

The first two ranks are labelled incorrectly, they should be "Gefreiter" and "Obergefreiter."

I have a couple of Hudson & Allen camo sheets with these rank insignia.

Hey Jack, totally understand. Do what ya got to do. In fact I think those are the diagrams I remember seeing. You may have even provided the link earlier and that's what I'm recalling.

Excellent stuff on the uniforms. You definitely have that covered and are a great resource. I have some things from Alliance Modelworks, stencils for panzer units and general markings. I also have a wheel mask set. All very, very good. Haven't seen their decals yet. I, like Bish, have a Verlinden set of decals that I've used in the past.

Great info Jack.  Thanks.  If I ever get into serious figures there is some great stuff on that site. Considering the size of that patch I think just the hint of some color will suffice... for me anyway

I got my insignia from a Verlinden set,proves very helpful as I was never able to paint those things.