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The Official 1943 70th Anniversary Group Build

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  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Thursday, March 7, 2013 7:02 PM

Thanks for sharing, Very cool aryicle. Another thing I had read that makes a nice looking water is a heavy clear artist gel. It takes a long time to dry (appx 24 hrs) but can be worked to show some pretty convincing waves. Any way, thanks again for the article. Cant wait to see your progress on this one!

Take care...

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, March 7, 2013 10:22 PM

Going to have a second naval subject. Am building a Midshipman Models 1/700 Gridley - from which we'll make USS Maury and 1/700 Tamiya Shiratsuyu which we'll turn into Shigure. These two were among the most famous warships in the South Pacific and met at Vella Gulf in August 1943 in the first truly decisive US surface victory over the IJN. More on that later. Gridley/Maury underway.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, March 8, 2013 9:06 AM

Eric:  Glad to see another naval subject.  Being relatively new to ship building, I'm looking forward to learning some new and better techniques.

First question:  how will you go about painting additional colors on the parts you've already assembled?  Will you use a brush?  It seems that masking and airbrushing would be very difficult in such a small scale.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, March 8, 2013 2:26 PM

Some odds and ends from BB-60.

Alabama carried 52 20mm cannon; the kit provides myriads.  I stopped counting at 77.

Then there is construction step 3:  painted but unassembled.

Now assembled.

Next, the painting stage for bits and pieces for construction steps 4 and 5.

Finally, the completed construction step 4.

 Thanks for looking. 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, March 9, 2013 4:46 AM

Thats some detailed work there CMK, very nice.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, March 9, 2013 10:21 AM

Thanks, Bish.  The Optivisor comes in handy for things like this!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:19 AM

O i bet it does.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:50 AM

Wow thats some seriously tiny detail work ,my eyes hurt just looking at it. Great stuff CMK. I'm hung up on a build B-17 so its still going to be a while before I start on the Me410 but I'll get it in before the g/b ends!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:11 PM

Thanks, Trey.  I appreciate the comment.  It's not so bad, really, but I find myself on the floor alot, looking for dropped parts.

Here are photos of construction step 5.

Parts unassembled:

Parts assembled.

Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:20 PM

Looking for dropped parts, i am not sure i would even bother at that size. People keep commenting about the detail that we get in 72nd aircraft. They really need to have a lok at this.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:24 PM

Unfortunately, a missing 20mm even in 1/700 leaves a noticeable gap in the armaments, if it's not there--and so I've come to a new aesthetic appreciation of the kitchen tile. Bow Down

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:40 PM

CMK... Man... You are the ship builder extraordinare' I would go nuts trying to keep track of those parts much less trying to paint and assy too! Gotta give it to you brother... not to mention EB(Eric) building a smaller one! Hey, I got tired of crawling around on the garadge floor chasing parts, and got a cheap apron at a thrift store, taped it to the bottom of my bench, and when working "small parts" I slip it on and when parts get dropped they usually wind up in the apron. Just a thought... Keep the pictures coming! Great work!

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, March 10, 2013 6:53 PM

Thanks for the compliment, Doug; and for the suggestion--although, I might have to get a new apron.  I'm afraid the little parts would get caught in the ruffles.  Embarrassed

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:18 PM

CMK that is so cool putting the penny in there for scale referance ,makes it even more impressive thinking of the skill required to pull that off! My hat is off to you Sir!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, March 11, 2013 12:33 AM

Thanks, Trey.  Very kind comments.  I hope to progress to more PE stuff in the near future.  I bought a Hasegawa set, but it didn't come with instructions, and, anyway, I misiplaced it somewhere, so Alabama is strictly OOB.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, March 11, 2013 3:18 AM

Ships are very modular so a different approach toward painting is required. One of the things good ship builders know is how much to do in one chunk. Briefly put, it's almost essential to do a lot of brush work on a ship. Particularly with some of the very complicated camo schemes, a lot of ship modelers will use the airbrush on the hull, the deck (before anything is put on it) and maybe a base coat on the superstructure. From there on out masking becomes almost impossible for some painting schemes. For what it's worth, some of the best styrene and resin ship builders in the world use the hand brush as the primary even only weapon. (On my last ship I airbrushed the hull, and put on a base coat on the deck. Most of the superstructure and the "planking" done to color the deck was all by hand - far more than I'd do with either a tank or plane. Pic below.) Because of scale weathering really must be done differently. You can see why a lot of modelers will build aircraft and armor but almost never a ship. It's a different drummer - but you will learn a lot.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, March 11, 2013 3:36 AM

One more thing concerning ships. You don't need to use a whole PE detail set to get a good ship model. However, a ship really needs railings and very basic rigging. And you don't have to go overboard at all. Putting railing on the main deck is very easy on a battleship.  At 700 scale Tom's Model Works offers generic railings and ladders for $8. I"d use Tom's over White Ensign because it's less fine and a little tougher. I'd get some tacky glue like Aleene's to set the railing and then carefully put a little Super Glue on to keep it steady. That's probably the last thing to do. As for rigging, even six or eight lines with make a dramatically better ship than one unrigged. An hour of tying and connecting lines between the main masts, bow and stern will greatly improve a ship. (Crazies spend weeks doing it - no idea how.)  I like 1lb monofilament fly fishing line, but fly tying line works well and so will a coated thread. If you haven't looked around on the gallery at Modelwarships.com you really should. Don't be intimidated by the works of the fanatics over there, but it's an extraordinary resource. Ships are wonderful topics for mortals too. They're also trumps for display. The only model I have that will draw the eye of the people that see my stuff the way my ships do is a biplane.  

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, March 11, 2013 5:21 PM

Thanks for the insights, Eric.  I agree about the rails and rigging.  I usually put at least some rigging up, but haven't done any rails yet; but if that's the last thing to go on, I can probably add some deck rigging later to ships I've finished.  

Do you think thinned white glue would be enough to hold rails in place?  I'm not sure I'd trust myself with applying superglue to such a narrow area.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, March 11, 2013 5:29 PM

Here's an example of how I've been handling painting, since I'm not really a brush painter.  I've used really small pieces of masking tape and poked and prodded it into place, even on the insides of the little walls (I don't know the proper nautical term). 

This is construction stage six.  I had to mask the piece below in two stages.

Here are the parts for step 6 painted but unassembled.

Then a bird's-eye view of the complete assembly with a penny for size reference.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, March 11, 2013 5:38 PM

A kind of "walk-around" for construction step six and Alabama's superstructure.

First, starboard, fore and aft.

Then, port, fore and aft.

At this point, I'm goint to return to some aircraft modeling.  BB-60 needs her float planes.  The kit planes were weak, so I bought a set of Trumpeter Kingfishers.  I'll need to paint and assemble these so her catapults won't look empty.  Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, March 11, 2013 9:41 PM

Alabama coming along nicely - you're good with the macro lens.

I've got Maury through build - a little adventure actually. Mast won't be seated until the very last step prior to rigging. It's just been given Future for weathering prep. You can sure tell the difference between Scheme 22 (Navy Blue and Haze Gray on horizontal surfaces) on Bama and the kinda boring Measure 21 where everything is Navy Blue or Deck Blue (they're all grays really.) It's not easy to catch the difference with the camera, although it should be a little more obvious after washes etc. If WEM is right Navy and Deck Blue were really pretty close in real life regardless.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, March 11, 2013 11:03 PM

That's a great looking destroyer, Eric.  Measure 21 is a nice change of pace.  It would be too monotonous if everything were Measure 22 Sleep !

I appreciate the comment on my photography.  I crop them with "Paint."  They load faster on photobucket that way.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, March 11, 2013 11:18 PM

CheckM

1. The technique I use is courtesy of Jim Baumann who moderates many of the Ship Modeler forums including "tips." In the view of many, Baumann is one of the great ship modelers of the era - and I wouldn't quibble. (Check his gallery postings - amazing.) He uses a very tacky white glue available in the UK. I'm sure that the US equivalent is Aleene's Tacky Glue which is available in every craft store and most hardware stores. Comes in regular, quick-dry and extra-tacky. I use regular usually. If you want to use the stuff as white glue a little water is fine. For attaching PE (or small plastic parts) I'd use it straight. The stuff takes a couple of hours to cure but it begins setting very quickly so you want to apply it and stick the part within two or three minutes. Just put out little blobs and refresh every step - we're talking seconds and a 4 oz bottle ($3) will last about five years. I run a very thin line of Aleene's along the line where railings will go and put a little blob about every inch. Use a paintbrush or toothpick and put glue on the bottom of the rail - just a very thin line. The stuff will take something like a PE railing and hold it like a magnet immediately when you get used to it. Baumann advises against doing lines of rail more than 2" but I let the shape determine length. As soon as Aleene's grabs the piece (no waiting) take the finest applicator possible and slip in some CA (preferably from the rear). As soon as the CA sets take a moistened Q-tip and remove any Aleene's that's accessible. It dries clear but leaves a little smudge if left in quantity. (You'll want to touch up railing with paint anyway.) So you set the part with Aleene's and use CA to hold it. This stuff has become one of my most important bits in the modeling arsenal and I use it on every kit somewhere. I've got Gator Glue around but haven't opened after I met Aleene. Super Tack is tackier but gives you less time and is harder to apply thin and smooth: ditto with quick dry. However, Aleene's acts very differently than any other white glue - it's ability to hold a small part is amazing. And when it does cure, it gives a pretty good join.

Another Ship Modeler wizard is David Griffith who has written the best book out there on modeling plastic ship. One of the hardest things about PE is curving it. He recommends using a mouse pad and take some kind of tube shaped object (pencil, toothpick - depends on what angle you want) and just press where you want the curve. That works very well and if you're careful you can fine tune with tweezers. For basic PE bending a thin, short metal ruler works great. Get a piece of glass or very hard plastic. (Coat it with Saran Wrap if you want a place to glue PE together without gluing it to the table.)  Take the PE and put it under the ruler along the line where you want the bend. Slip a razor  blade or hobby knife under other side and bend up. If it's aligned right, you'll get a very clean bend. (White Ensign has a couple of inexpensive gadgets that I find better than the big and expensive PE bending gizmos - of course they're very poorly documented.) At 700 scale the real trick is getting the stuff off the sprue. WEM suggests using a #11 hobby blade to cut the stuff on top of glass. I think a size 17 or 16 is much better: you never want to cut across PE sprues - always push down. Actually railings and simple ladders are the easiest thing to handle and install. As noted, I would go with Tom's although WEM's generic railings (which have simple ladders) are widely available and very inexpensive. They're also better from a scale viewpoint but more delicate. If you're railing a 350 scale ship get some generic railing made by Verlinden - the stuff is out of scale but tough as nails and very easy to apply and bend. And if you buy PE sets - note that some of the most experienced modelers on the planet will skip some of the parts that are smaller than an ant's eyeball. Sometimes I think the PE guys like to show off. But railings are sweet.

2. What kind of software to you use to get those flasing Group Build icons?

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 12:34 AM

Thanks for the suggestions, Eric.  They sound great.  I have been using Aleene's to assemble the components of the superstructure.  It seems to hold as well as CA and gives more working time.  From what you've written, the stuff sounds even more versatile.  I've been using thinned down Elmer's for a lot of the components on Alabama, including the 20mm's.

I appreciate all this advice.  I've got a Tamiya Ticonderoga I plan to build as Shangri-la.  I bought some PE rails and radar.  Figured a carrier wouldn't have too much, and I could get experience that way.

And here's the link to the website that creates flashing GB icons.  No software needed. 

http://picasion.com/

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 1:30 AM

Thankee for the software tip. I might try using just Aleene's for this rigging. Just as long as I don't stick my thumb in the wrong place.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, March 12, 2013 9:49 AM

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

G-J
  • Member since
    July 2012
Posted by G-J on Monday, March 18, 2013 7:27 PM

I finally got my P-40F kit in.  As soon as I finish off the Hellcat (in the back of the picture) I'll be giving this a whirl.  Of course, I opened the box when I got in today...I notice this kit is more detailed than the Revell kits I've been building.  That excites me and worries me a bit.  Anyway, I can't wait to start.

On the bench:  Tamyia Mosquito Mk. VI for the '44 group build.  Yes, still.

On deck: 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, March 18, 2013 10:09 PM

The AMT kit will be a step up the food chain from Revell, but not a leap. This kit came out in the late 90s which was a period when Accurate Miniatures, Tamiya and Hasegawa were putting out some very good models and I think this was one of them. Brett Green isn't everyone's cup of tea but he does a very fine airplane to my eyes and here's his take on the Italeri rebox of your kit's first cousin.

http://www.hyperscale.com/2007/reviews/kits/italeri2658reviewbg_1.htm

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, March 19, 2013 4:04 PM

Nice work on those ships guys.

Has anyone heard from Sub lately, doesn't seem to have posted in a while.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, March 19, 2013 7:36 PM

Thanks, Bish.

Apparently the last time Sub posted was on 4 February.

 

 

 

 

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