Hi Guys,

     Almost at the finish with Han. This is what I have done this weekend.

NucMedTech

Hi Guys,

     Almost at the finish with Han. This is what I have done this weekend.

Nicely done!

Did you do any shading on the shirt? White is one of those colors that many of us struggle to add depth to without making it look dingy.

What brand paint and colors did you use for Han's flesh tones? Any special finishing techniques?

Tim Kidwell

Rob - Does the Polar Lights kit give any scale? I think it was a 16" tall model, right?

The 16" Polar Lights Godzilla kit is their own original kit with no scale listed. I'm building the ex-Aurora Godzilla kit subsequently reissued by Monogram and Polar Lights. I first built it when it was issued in the green and glow-in-the-dark plastic. The Polar Lights reissue I have is molded in a lime green.

The scale of the original Aurora Godzilla kit (and the Monogram and Polar Lights reissues) has been questioned and the answer often depends on which movie you think the kit is based on. There's even a webpage that discusses the changing size of Godzilla and how he goes from 50 to 80 meters tall. http://www.historyvortex.org/HowBigGodzilla.html

The kit is considered to be based on Godzilla from the 1962 movie, King Kong vs. Godzilla because of the three toes and no ears. According to the Club Tokyo website, the kit is 1/50 scale.

This 1/50 scale Aurora Godzilla plastic model kit was issued in 1964, and continued production until 1968, when it was replaced the following year by its Glow-in-the-Dark counterpart. It is molded in a bright fuschia color and was kit number 469 in the Aurora series of plastic model kits. The Aurora Godzilla is one of the first Godzilla toy-related items produced, which is interesting since it's an American release.

The figure appears to be based on the KING-Goji (Godzilla 1962) suit, as there are no ears on Godzilla and he has three-toed feet.

The box alone is sought-after and the artwork is famous, featuring a blood splattered Godzilla amidst a flaming city and lightning bolts. Here are detailed assembly instructions.

Year of Initial Release: 1964; Last Updated: 17 - November - 2002

Hi everyone,

Wow, things have certainly slowed down here. Well, as for me, I think I'm going to call Han done. I don't think that I will get any better with what I have. It was a real good experience for me and I look forward to learning more as others post their work. So here are my final photos

-Stephen

NucMedTech, that looks really good.  Excellent work on getting the eyes centered, and the red stitching looks perfect - did you mask here or is that very careful brushwork?   Skin tones might be a tad pale, but I'm thinking this is a result of harsh lighting or camera flash?

regards,

Jack

Stephen: Looks great to me, fantastic job with the face!

NucMedTech

Wow, things have certainly slowed down here. Well, as for me, I think I'm going to call Han done. I don't think that I will get any better with what I have. It was a real good experience for me and I look forward to learning more as others post their work. So here are my final photos

 

Nuc! Great job! I think that is a model to be proud of. 

Did you spray it with flat and then at gloss to the eyes? I seem to detect a little gleam there. I'm glad to see that you think the experience was "good," but did you enjoy the build?

Definitely grab your badge--you earned it! I'll put Han in the Hall of Fame.

WOW!  Great jobs everyone.  I'm still struggling with Mr. Scott.  

jibber, great Robbie!    The detail rocks!

NucMedTech.  Han has always been my favorite SW character and you have done him justice!  Great work!

Gamera, awesome work on the Picard and Romulan!  One question, is that a grey primer on the figures?  If so, did you prime every piece?  I did the head and hands of Mr. Scott and I'm wondering if it will be too dark now.  Also, what primer and paints are you using?  

Sorry for the novice questions but this is my first figure and I don't want you all hurting yourself laughing when I get him finished!  

Great work everyone!

Eagle90

I painted Picard some years back with acrylic paint but it never dried on vinyl material the figures were made of. So I stripped him down to bare plastic and primed the whole figure after assembly with spray paint made for vinyl/rubber type bumpers on cars. Seems to have done the trick. The Romulan was molded in some bizarre lavender that I really wanted to cover up.

I did the flesh with Testor's Model Master acrylic and then highlighted with some Vallejo. It looked too strong to me so I oversprayed everything with more thinned down MM.

Eagle90--I'll dig out my first fig to show you guys. Looking at it now, not so great. But back then, I was thrilled with it! So, no matter how your fig turns out, remember, it's your first, and it's the best you can do now. That's something to be proud of. The next one will be better. And so will the one after that.

By the way, I have to keep reminding myself of the same thing. I work with great modelers, and I admin a forum with a TON of great modelers, and it's sometimes hard not to get down on myself for not doing better. But it's about the journey, the enjoyment, the learning, and, in the case of the group build, the camaraderie.

So, bring on the questions!

When I prime, I cover the whole fig. I usually use the first coat to help identify defects that I correct before putting on a second coat and then begin painting. Sometimes it takes three passes to clean everything up.

By the way, how is Scotty fitting together?

Gamera

I painted Picard some years back with acrylic paint but it never dried on vinyl material the figures were made of. So I stripped him down to bare plastic and primed the whole figure after assembly with spray paint made for vinyl/rubber type bumpers on cars. Seems to have done the trick. The Romulan was molded in some bizarre lavender that I really wanted to cover up.

I did the flesh with Testor's Model Master acrylic and then highlighted with some Vallejo. It looked too strong to me so I oversprayed everything with more thinned down MM.

Thanks Gamera!  And I think your painting is looking good!

Eagle90

Thank you Tim!!!!!!!!!!  And it is a fun journey for sure!  Diving into this new genre was way cool (next thing you know I'll be building boats or something!). 

The fit is still an issue.  I did like you and Aaron suggested, but I could only get it to fit "properly" around 2/3 of it.  There is a huge gap around one back corner.  So I'll have to break out some engineering tricks and give Mr. Scott a nip and tuck!    Other than the fit, I'm getting ready to spray some flesh tone on to the hands and face.  I'm hoping to post some pics tonight.  Maybe I'll throw in one with the fit issue and see what everyone thinks.  Thanks again Tim!

Eagle90

Nuc, great looking Han. I always have problems with eyes on 35th figures, you have done an awesome job on those.

Eagle: Thanks, and I'm interested in how Scotty is coming along too. He's probably my favorite Trek character out of all the series.

Nuc I think he looks great. I'm always impressed with people who get good skin tones and painting white is also very challenging. I think you did a fantastic job with him.

Beautiful job, Stephen. The skin tones are very convincing, and the clothing colors and textures are first-rate. Truly a figure to be proud of!

Gamera

Eagle: Thanks, and I'm interested in how Scotty is coming along too. He's probably my favorite Trek character out of all the series.

Thank you!  It's starting to look human now!

Eagle90

Hey everyone, thought I'd post a pic of Mr. Scott and see what you all think.  I got some great advice from Tim and Aaron, but it only helped a bit.  Yeah, the gap used to be bigger!  Anyway, I don't think putty will help here, but thought I'd see if anyone else has had this before and what they did.  Thanks in advance!

Eagle90

Eagel90 - if the torso and leg halves are not glued yet, this is how I would fix:

- cover both openings with sheet plastic, and sand flush (you should be able to trim excess plastic with a knife or even scissors)

- when it is ready to glue together, center as best as possible the torso over the hips, any visible overlap should represent the shirt, as I don't think this were tucked into the pants

regards,

Jack

If the parts just won't fit you can gently heat them with a blow dryer on the low setting till they fit and then let them cool after fitting.

All of you are to kind, I think I'm my hardest critic sometimes.

- Tim, I really enjoyed the GB, Like I said I really learned a lot and any time modeling is 

automatically very enjoyable. With more experience I'm sure I will improve on facial painting,

I thought Han was a little to pale, which made my shading appear to have to much ccontrast giving him a grungy kind of look. I was happy with the way his clothing came out, so no complaints there. I do have a few more figures in the stash to improve on and I am looking forward to that.

On the other side I look forward to seeing everyone's progress so please post pics.

-stephen

Quick update on Ironman.

The Candy red is down and it needs to dry fully for 24hrs before i can get the silver and gold on. Bit of a tight timescale as I'm going in for shoulder surgery on the 26th and want to get it all done before then! Anyway below is a picture of the torso. Alclad is great paint as long as you take your time.

Phil

Phil, that candy red looks great.

Best of luck for the sugery, nothing to serious I hope.

Jeez, page 2 again!  Beginning to think even I could keep up.  Are there any 1/144 Villain kits?

So Iron man as he stands today. I need to give him a top coat and start the weathering but the lights work and the colour looks good to me. Looks like I wont get him finished before the op (Just having some bone removed from inside, had the left done last year so I know what to expect which is a few weeks in a sling then a few more weeks without much use from the arm)

Phil

Phil, that is looking outstanding!

If I remember correctly, the lighting from the interior was something you had to implement on your own?

Once it's all done, you should post a pic taken in the dark, with just Ironman's lights on.

regards,

Jack

Jack

Yes I had to use my own LED's but its not exactly difficult job. it was a bit of work to get the wires to run as there wasn't always much room in a few places, particularly in the head. But as soon as I opened the box I knew it had to be lighted. I'm a little surprised there isn't a kit out there to do it or even Dragon didn't make one themselves.

Phil

jgeratic

Eagel90 - if the torso and leg halves are not glued yet, this is how I would fix:

- cover both openings with sheet plastic, and sand flush (you should be able to trim excess plastic with a knife or even scissors)

- when it is ready to glue together, center as best as possible the torso over the hips, any visible overlap should represent the shirt, as I don't think this were tucked into the pants

regards,

Jack

Hey Jack.  Thanks!  That is a cool idea.  I'm going to give it a shot and see if it will work.  Funny you mention the shirt not being tucked in.  I was going to get on Netflix and watch an episode or 2 to see how they looked!  Thanks again!

Eagle90

Gamera

If the parts just won't fit you can gently heat them with a blow dryer on the low setting till they fit and then let them cool after fitting.

Hey Gamera,

Thanks for the help!  I tried that and there is just a spot no matter how I move it around or heat it up and form it.  Just the weirdest thing.  It could be I have a defective kit too (never know what you're going to get on evil bay!)  Thanks again for the help!

Eagle90