The Mustang and Corvette Group Build

Rommel - I've had the same experience before as well. I ended up buying another kit to make up the missing parts. I've updated the build roster for you.

Thanks for the tip on modelcargarage, I've just ordered the detail set for the '53 Corvette (and a '60 Corvette). It has the photoetched badges for the body, which means that  I can sand off the plastic ones. That will look much better,  I think. I had some custom made for some Triumph sports cars I was building a  few years back and it made the world of difference.

Cheers

Tony

@Rommel - hope you find the parts!!!  In the meantime, feel good, as that Vette is a beautiful car.  Can't wait to see more of it.

This was to be my progress post on my Mako Shark kit.  I did get the engine painted, some assembly and wired.  I went through the rest of the kit cleaning up parts and removing pin marks and found the interior tub is missing along with the dash.  Normal luck for me.   If this run of luck don't stop soon I may just clear my workbench, put everything in storage and take up needle point.  I have had that kit in my stash pile for at least 20 years and NEVER noticed the interior missing.  I have began the search for parts at this time but the Mako will be on hold for now.  I won't take it off the list just yet, I know the parts are out there….somewhere.  For now I will start the Revell 66 Penske/Donohue Corvette.  I just finished Mark Donohue's book, "The Unfair Advantage" and there was a chapter about the car.  I have the kit, its molded well with no warp and will, or should, be a fairly easy build.  Having said that I hope I don't barf up on the assembly.  With a little luck, I should have some progress to show soon.  

Dale and Ken - good progress, thanks for the updates.

I might have a look at modelcargarage.com too.

Cheers

Tony

@Dale - Thanks.  I got a scribing tool for the job.  It is basically a metal handle with a small curved hook on the end.  I got it at my LHS. It works awesome, but practice with it first should you get one.  Once you have a feel for the glide along the groove, move to your actual work.  At first, it is very easy to jump off track and mar the smooth surface as well as groove too deep and go through the plastic.  It doesn't take much to get the hang of it.

@Rommel - My guy at my LHS also told me about modelcargarage.com and I was checking it out already.  They do have the 67 mustang kit, but it does not appear to have wiper blades.  I think some of the other parts line up though, like the grill and pedals and the big plus is that they have some of the emblems and the letters for the rear M-U-S-T-A-N-G lettering.  I ended up getting that plus a generic wiper kit for both 1/24 and 1/25 cars which should work just fine.

I have to make my GB badge smaller!!! lol

Kt, try Modelcargarage.com.  They have some mustang PE sets of different years and I think the wipers for the '67 would work for you.  Check em out, you might find something else you can use.  

Woops forgot to include this in my last post.

Looking good so far Ken.

What did you use to scribe the body lines and how did you go about doing it?

Well the furnace quit working on Sunday, so I had to stay home from work on Monday and wait for the repair guy to come. That gave me some time to get some work done. I started putting the motor together, so far no issues there.

Then I started doing some sanding on the body, and removing some ejector pin marks on the under side of the hood.

There were some mold lines on the upper edges of the fenders. I'm hopeing when I sanded them I did not round the top of the fenders to much. I finish sanded with 800 grit wet dry sand paper, should that be fine enough before the primer?

Got some parts welded last night (LATE) and some sanding done.  Also scribed the body lines.

A little more sanding and I should be priming today!!!

FYI.  I sanded off the wipers, so I am totally commited to getting the PE wipers.  Problem is, I can't find anything specific.

If anyone knows of a source for 69 Mustang PE details, please let me know.  back to google for me! 

@Rommel, thanks for the add on.

Hopefully more will follow tonight.

Kt, EW pretty well covered your questions.  Mount the side scoops before painting also.  As for the tires, after you trim em like EW said, sand em a little with some 220 and 400 sandpaper.  That will give you the slightly used tread look.  If the sidewall still shines a little too much for you, scrub it with a little "Comet" cleaner or hit em with some Testors Dulcote.  Keep glooin' guys, I'm trying to catch up!

@EW, I've been reading that GB.  It's so huge, I am only about half way through.

Nice coat on the Bel Air.  Thanks for the advice!!!

HI Ken,

I would mount the front and back end and before painting. As for the wipers, they are aftermarket photo-etch ones but I haven't tried them yet. Anything would look better than the molded ones though hehehe. If the mirrors are the sport type then I would also mount them before painting. It's best to paint as together at the same time so you don't get color variations. I usually trim the mold lines from the tires with a new #11 blade.

Also, the paper towels are dry. I was using sandpaper for the wet sanding, but no matter how hard I tried, I would always have areas that were back down to the plastic. Since I started using the paper towels, I don't have that problem anymore and the paint is really smooth.If you look at the 62 Bel Air I'm doing in another group build Tony is running you can get an idea how smooth it is.

cs.finescale.com/.../1692780.aspx

L8TR,

Eric

Here I am with the late start  and I am just leading off with my impressions of my kit out of the box.

Parts are pretty clean and detailed.  I am actually surprised at the amount of detail around the engine parts.  I was considering if I was going to get any aftermarket parts or detail kits, mainly around the engine seem to be satisfied by the kit contents.

There is some great detail on the dash, radio detail and even wood grain on the passenger side.  I was going to do a wood grain but with the plastic molded this way a preshade and dry-brush could be all it needs.

I really love the body lines.  They did a great job on it.  It is actually smooth and glossy enough, you could leave it white and throw the decals on it (LOL - j/k).

I can see that there are some minor fit issues, some small gaps and seams, as I test fit things, but nothing too big to overcome.

I have some questions for the group, if you would entertain them:

1. One thing I don't like is the wipers as part of the body.  I would like to craft some real windshield wipers.  Is this typically done?  Any tips on materials/making them?
2. Would it be wise to glue the front and back ends on before painting the body? I have seen it where they are painted apart, and then attached, but I am not sure which is better.  I'm also not sure if it will create a challenge when I go to put the chassis into the body (i.e. will it go in without a fight with these parts already attached).
3. Same question on the air scoops behind the doors.  Affix before or after painting?  I would hate to ruin the body paint, but I think I can manage either way.
4. Side view mirrors...same question - affix before or after painting???
5. Rubber tires??? The kit came with them.  They are decent, but have a mold line around the center (I could live with it), but also 2 rubber sprue points on each side (not sure I can live with).  Any tire recommendations appreciated.

Bear with me, as I will have more questions along the way. 

Thanks Dale.

The paper towels work great and are not as messy as wet sanding.

L8TR

Eric

Looks good so far Eric. You must have read my mind, I was going to ask you what you meant by "rub out" the primer.

Hey all,

I managed to fit a little time in today.

I got the primer rubbed out and ready for paint. I'm not sure how everyone else does it but here's my take on it. I used to try wet sanding after priming but most times the primer would get sanded off in high spots due to the primer being thinner there. I read an article somewhere (don't remember where) but the guy used paper towels like sandpaper. I tried it and it works great. I use a paper towel and rub the primer down smooth until it has a slight shine to it and it doesn't remove the primer. Works like a charm. It definitely improved my paint jobs. 

I then sprayed the first coat of paint, worked on the engine for a bit then sprayed the second coat. It's ready for the first clear coat tomorrow.

I also got the block done and primered and started cleaning up parts.

L8TR,

Eric

They are both kits that I have eyed off over the years. I look forward to seeing them in action. Who knows, I might even get some of these projects done during this GB.

Cheers

Tony

This is the kit I will be working on. After reading some reviews online it seems that it's not all that accurate. Wrong induction system, and some issues with the outer wheel houses.

Moving it onto the bench. There's a nasty scuff on the windshield that needs attention. The rest of the kit looks pretty good for being old.

Thanks Tony and Rommel,

Tony, I looked at the Mach1. I like the stripes on it. Makes it look fast hehehe.

Rommel, Once I start I lose track of time rather quickly hehehe. My other half has to remind me that I have other things to do also.

L8TR,

Eric

EW, I sure wish I could crank 'em out as fast as you!  I have only managed to get mine out of the box and get the basic engine together and yet to open a jar of paint.  By the time I post my first progress pics, you will be posting a finished project!  Maybe if I watch your WIP it will plant a boot deep enough in my lower personality to shift gears and start smearing some gloo and paint.  Keep up the good work and I will be watching.     Rom

Amazing progress Eric. You sure work fast.

I'm thinking about a '70 Mach 1 Twister Special. there are many more that I  could fit into the build.

Cheers

Tony

If the new Revell/Monogram 62 is like their 58/59, that will be the one to get.  Otherwise you're stuck with the ancient, but still decent AMT kit.  Hope this helps.

Hi all,

I was able to get a little more done today.

Worked on the engine. It had a hump running from top to bottom on the front so the front cover would not lay flat. I had to cut the pins off, drill holes where they were and then sand it flat. Then welded in new pins.

Went back over the body and cleaned up the mold lines I missed, then re-shot the primer. Tomorrow I'll rub out the primer and lay the first coat of paint.

And last, I got the inside body piece painted.

Thanks for looking,

L8TR,

Eric

Good luck with the search Alan, that can be fun  too.

Ken - I'm looking forward to your first WIP update.

Rob - I don't know anything about that Jada kit, but I'd like to find out.Are you going to join with it ? :)

Cheers

Tony

Thanks.  I checked eBay but those older kits are pricey.  Will keep looking.

Just wanted to say hi and welcome to all the new members. Look forward to seeing your builds.

Thanks Rommel. Half the fun is figuring out how to fix it. I guess if everything fit perfect it would be boring hehehehe.

L8TR

Eric

I may give this one a shot. I have several Corvettes but I think I will build one of two Mustangs I have from the clearance bin. I don't know much about the cars, but I have a Revell Motorworks Mustang Mach III. It is some sort of concept car.

The other kit is by a company I'm not too familiar with called Jada.  It is a 2007 Ford Shelby GT-500. I like the looks of this kit better. I've built a few Jada kits, but they were of the Speed Racer movie Mach 5 and Mach 6 snap kits I built for my son. This GT is a real kit with interior, suspension, engine, etc.

My kit had a $4 price tag, I just found this image on the web.