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Thanks guys. Made some progress with the paint and began the 3 tone scheme.
I sprayed a light coat of Floquil RR tie brown then followed by painting the hull bottom, running gear and lower hull sides German dark yellow
Read about using a brown pencil to mark the scheme out over the olive grun base coat Then used a thin brush to paint the outlines. I had to go this route as I could not do the Silly Putty masking because of the tiny PE pieces located thru out the hull. If I'm not mistaken, this type of scheme was modified at unit level and hand brushed by the crew on the field. then used the AB to fill in the colors I didn't feel like glossing the model for a few decals so I cut the carrier film off and attached each decal as a separate piece, eliminating silvering. These Eduard decals look to be decent but they have a VERY poor adhesive quality that will begin to curl up after application. My Solvaset took care of that and melted them down on the surface. If you are not using Solvaset, I then suggest using Future as a setting solution under and over them. I have a suspicion that Micro Sol or Set will do nothing to them. Now comes the fun part, weathering. I need to spray flat acrylic clear to protect the enamel paint from the oil paint filters and washes to come. The side armor is being held in place with Aleen's and will come off easy for the long weathering process and track installation to come.
Read about using a brown pencil to mark the scheme out over the olive grun base coat
Then used a thin brush to paint the outlines. I had to go this route as I could not do the Silly Putty masking because of the tiny PE pieces located thru out the hull. If I'm not mistaken, this type of scheme was modified at unit level and hand brushed by the crew on the field. then used the AB to fill in the colors I didn't feel like glossing the model for a few decals so I cut the carrier film off and attached each decal as a separate piece, eliminating silvering. These Eduard decals look to be decent but they have a VERY poor adhesive quality that will begin to curl up after application. My Solvaset took care of that and melted them down on the surface. If you are not using Solvaset, I then suggest using Future as a setting solution under and over them. I have a suspicion that Micro Sol or Set will do nothing to them. Now comes the fun part, weathering. I need to spray flat acrylic clear to protect the enamel paint from the oil paint filters and washes to come. The side armor is being held in place with Aleen's and will come off easy for the long weathering process and track installation to come.
Then used a thin brush to paint the outlines. I had to go this route as I could not do the Silly Putty masking because of the tiny PE pieces located thru out the hull. If I'm not mistaken, this type of scheme was modified at unit level and hand brushed by the crew on the field.
then used the AB to fill in the colors I didn't feel like glossing the model for a few decals so I cut the carrier film off and attached each decal as a separate piece, eliminating silvering. These Eduard decals look to be decent but they have a VERY poor adhesive quality that will begin to curl up after application. My Solvaset took care of that and melted them down on the surface. If you are not using Solvaset, I then suggest using Future as a setting solution under and over them. I have a suspicion that Micro Sol or Set will do nothing to them. Now comes the fun part, weathering. I need to spray flat acrylic clear to protect the enamel paint from the oil paint filters and washes to come. The side armor is being held in place with Aleen's and will come off easy for the long weathering process and track installation to come.
then used the AB to fill in the colors
I didn't feel like glossing the model for a few decals so I cut the carrier film off and attached each decal as a separate piece, eliminating silvering. These Eduard decals look to be decent but they have a VERY poor adhesive quality that will begin to curl up after application. My Solvaset took care of that and melted them down on the surface. If you are not using Solvaset, I then suggest using Future as a setting solution under and over them. I have a suspicion that Micro Sol or Set will do nothing to them. Now comes the fun part, weathering. I need to spray flat acrylic clear to protect the enamel paint from the oil paint filters and washes to come. The side armor is being held in place with Aleen's and will come off easy for the long weathering process and track installation to come.
I didn't feel like glossing the model for a few decals so I cut the carrier film off and attached each decal as a separate piece, eliminating silvering. These Eduard decals look to be decent but they have a VERY poor adhesive quality that will begin to curl up after application. My Solvaset took care of that and melted them down on the surface. If you are not using Solvaset, I then suggest using Future as a setting solution under and over them. I have a suspicion that Micro Sol or Set will do nothing to them.
Now comes the fun part, weathering. I need to spray flat acrylic clear to protect the enamel paint from the oil paint filters and washes to come. The side armor is being held in place with Aleen's and will come off easy for the long weathering process and track installation to come.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Ohhhhhhhhh, fantastic work on the camo there PJ! Looking forward to the weathering.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
That camo really looks great, PJ! I'm very interested in seeing the weathering techniques you are going to use!
The camo looks great! I started using the "pencil" technique awhile ago. Makes it much easier to see where the colors are supposed to go.
On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk
Thanks gents. As silentbob said, the pencil technique makes it a lot easier to map out the patterns. I used a Prismacolor pencil which doesn't show up under the paint.
I plan on using the dot oil paint method for streaking, rain marks etc and oil washes as filters to tie in the effects. The running gear, lower hull and sides and track will get some light caking of MMP earth pigments. I'm debating if to make a small base for it ...
Looking very nice there PJ.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Was going to post some pictures of the weathering steps but I can't get into my Photobucket account. I know I had the correct password but it's not taking it. When I go to the password recovery page, the link is sent to me but once I type a new password and click on the reset tab nothing happens. I have been trying to get a phone number to speak to someone but its freaking impossible!
Looks like I'm not the only one having trouble with Photobucket ATM... I can log in, but it won't let me upload pictures...
Interesting Bish. It will send me the link to the password recovery page but it stops there after clicking the reset tab, like it's frozen. I'm certain I'm using the correct password so it shouldn't be doing that anyway. There's nothing of value there just a bunch of plastic model pictures but it's frustrating trying to contact someone. I contacted the BBB in Colorado and they only have one phone number for them listed as the site owner's cell which is not taking messages. I've been using it for years without a problem till now.
Did some follow up on BBB complaints filed by consumers and most say the same thing that there is no human contact with this site so looks like I will be looking at another hosting location.
I dumped Photobucket and switched to ImageShackfor picture hosting.
Got the Hetzer dotted up with oils
Now to drag a brush with a little thinner to blend the oil paints
Most of the color is removed
More is removed leaving just a hint of the oils producing light streaks and subtle color changes in the paint.
The skirts get the same treatment
Most oft the paint is removed
Still lots of more fun stuff to come!
Yeah, I've noticed somewhat spotty access to PhotoBucket for sometime now. So far it hasn't been bad enough to drive me away- yet.
Nice work there on the Hetzer, I've tried that technique but always end up wiping too much away so that it wasn't any real point of putting it on!
I have not had any problems with PB, but I will watch out for it. Doesn't sound good. I wonder if you would get a response if you had a paid account.
Nice work there PJ. You have got a good effect with that.
She just emailed me back and I have access again. She was very apologetic and super nice.
Hey everyone! Have not forgotten about this GB! Finally getting ahead of the game with GB's and started the Nashorn last night. Well, I say started, I did a couple of the wheels, but I have committed to the start!
After the let down with the Nitto kits I did for the Rommel/Monty GB, I was a little leery about doing this Bandai kit. But so far (what little I have done), it seems to be a pretty good kit. If anyone has experience with these kits and has any advice, I'd appreciate it.
Just an initial open box (with the 2 wheels finished) pic.
Eagle90
Welcome Eagle. I love the old Bandai kits. I have a 1/24 Jagdpanther with interior that I built back in the mid 1970's and I'm redoing it to make it more accurate. I also have a huge 1/24 Bandai George to tackle.
Hi guys. I was wondering if I could join with Tamiya's 1/35 Marder II. I need some practice with armor before I take on my Dragon Tiger II in the Armour in the West GB. I'd like to get a couple kits under my belt before tackling that.
That looks pretty cool Eagle- I've heard a lot of good word about those old Bandai kits.
plasticjunkie Welcome Eagle. I love the old Bandai kits. I have a 1/24 Jagdpanther with interior that I built back in the mid 1970's and I'm redoing it to make it more accurate. I also have a huge 1/24 Bandai George to tackle.
Thanks PJ. 1/24! Awesome! This is a 1/48. Another one I got in an estate sale that was just sitting around. Thought I would do it for this GB after I started getting into the armor stuff! It looks to be a great kit so far. Loads better then the Nitto!
Gamera That looks pretty cool Eagle- I've heard a lot of good word about those old Bandai kits.
Hey Gamera! Looks like you heard correctly! So far this is a nice little kit. No issues so far. Really clean sprues and all the fits so far are good.
I can't say anything about those Bandai kits, but the sprues look nice!
Bob: I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to build your Marder with us! The more the merrier!
Nice, another Marder. Looking forward to seeing that Bob.
Thanks guys! Having done mostly aircraft and sci-fi, I'll have plenty of questions.
SchattenSpartan I can't say anything about those Bandai kits, but the sprues look nice! Bob: I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to build your Marder with us! The more the merrier!
SS, so far I'm very happy with the kit. Bandai seems to be a fine brand so far!
I've started my Marder II, and so far so good. Just a little bit of flash here and there, and all the fits are good. Here's the box shot:
I've got the gun assembled, I still have to put the shield together and attach it: This is one of the older Tamiya kits that was designed to be motorized, does anyone have any advice on how to fill up those holes in the lower hull?
I've got the gun assembled, I still have to put the shield together and attach it:
This is one of the older Tamiya kits that was designed to be motorized, does anyone have any advice on how to fill up those holes in the lower hull?
Looking good! I normally fill those holes with plastic sheet cut to shape and sanded flush.
Nice start Bob.
I am working on the old motorized Tamiya su-85. I have just left the holes, but then I will be fitting mine to a base so they can't be seen anyway. If you want to fill them, maybe you could add some bits of sheet styrene over the holes and the inside and once that dry fill the holes with filler.
Bob, I have the same kit so will be most interested in watching her go together! The motorisation holes I usually back with styrene sheet, then lay in some more sheet as a laminate to occupy most of the volume of the hole, then flush it off with filler. This saves using a lot of filler in the hole, which then tends to "crater" when sanded.
M/TB379
http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll see what works best for me
Bob, I built that Tamiya kit when it first came out and is a sweet model.
I have been assembling the link track for my Hetzer which is a little cumbersome but I'm making some progress and will post some pictures soon.
I've just about finished assembling the gun shield, so far this kit is falling together. But I did have a question. Should I attach the shield before painting, or leave it off? I've seen some builds on here where people leave the kit in various sub-assemblies for painting, and I know I'll have to do the same with this kit since the driver's compartment is almost completely covered when fully assembled. What are the general guidelines for which sub-assemblies to leave? And one final question, this kit has the radio rack, but no radio. Does anyone have a decent picture of a radio I can look at to scrounge for something similar in my spares, or a reference to scratchbuild one?
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