Keepers of the Peace GB 2013-14

i will use TAMIYA primer when doing 1/350 and 1/700 boats. i use ace hardware NOW for armor. inexpensive and i only had 1 grainy issue which was probably a combination of near the bottom of the can, not shaken enough, and colder temperature in the garage. so basically operator head space and timing maladjustment.

what is it you are building?

AUF1. I'm finally getting close to the end, had a few delays. I think I'll try the oil wash, I'd already mixed Tamiya Flat White with a few drops of Buff but I like the look of the wash a lot better.

oops i knew that. i thought i was asking stik what he was building. must be late. 

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

I'm going to experiment a little with a few oils to see what I get, thanks guys. I need to do less talking and more working, I'm down to the wire on this one.

stikpusher

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

stikpusher

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

i think the gray will look nice, just a hint of accent without the heavy panel lines on some a/c which seems to be the current rage. it's always interesting to see how beat up some modern builds look. dirty yes, environmentals yes. even pinkish from the red soil or permanent grafenwohr gray but not rusty or lots of chipped paint.

so it's a modified YPR. i have looked at them for years, never bought one. will have to search. AFV CLUB makes a couple with 25mm turrets, dutch i think, but they may not have interiors. i used to carry fresh onions and the like and we would use them the first few days like on ww2 submarines. when i took the 4.2" mortar platoon each gun track had a cooler in the load plan and, since the FOs were moved to the tanks, my PSG had a jeep too. during REFORGERs we "lived off the land. firing posn recons included locations of the nearest byckerei and metzgerei. oh and bratwurst stands.

still looking for it. i don't have any ROK stuff; a ton of PLA and JGSDF. oh and BUNDESWEHR stuff. AFV club has a couple. i may just have to put out the word to my local clubs i will trade big for it

Academy & Trumpeter are the only ones who make 1/35 ROK stuff. Trumpeter makes the K1 & K1A1 MBTs, basically the ROK M1 tank, and Academy makes the K-200, the M48A5 w/ROK specific parts, as well as the US version, and they make the new ROK 155mm SPG. All in all not a bad amount it stuff. I built the AFV Club YPR a few years back. It is a nice kit.

AFV CLUB has some YPRs though not ROK stuff. will keep looking. not like i don't have anything to build

Yeah there are some differences between the YPR and the K-200 families. I am planning on displaying mine together once this one is completed.

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A coat of paint and most of the wheels received a coat. I still have the rollers to do, add assessors and some other smaller parts. Lot of washes and pigments yet to come. 

Looking real good there Jibber

sweet. makes me want to go through my SPA stash (or add to it).

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A few finishing details and working on track, 360 individual pieces that had to be carefully removed and trimmed. Its hard to see but in one of the close ups you can see teeny connector pins that lay into a groove which makes the track "workable" but with only these pins holding the track in place, its impossible to keep them connected. Meng has softer plastic than other manufacturers and these connectors just dont work. I'd get a few pieces that'll barely hold but eventually I had to glue in two long pieces per side for the top and bottoms so working the sprockets and idlers will be a real adventure. I gave them a primer black then sprayed a Tamiya red brown as a base coat and painted each pad a blend of flat black and gun metal. I added a little mix of pigments then I'll give the entire track an oil based wash that'll work the pigment into smaller areas. I still have doors and other small parts to add then I'll finish with an overall wash and dusting. Meng makes a great kit with very good detail but the tracks could be improved.    

Jibber: the Auf1 is coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing it completed.

Thanks just trying to get it done with the little time left.

Last week I got the top glued on my K-200. Today I puttied up the few gaps around the glacis plate top and bottom. I dont know if those were a result of me or the kit, but they were not there when I was test fitting...

I added some spare track shoes based on photos of them stowed there

and I did some detail work such as drilling out the exhaust, assembling the M60 Machine Gun and antenna mounts, and smoke grenade launcher

Now that it is not insanely hot here I can get more work done this week... 100*+ in the work area is not conducive to good modeling.

Stik thats going to be one very nice build, you did a fantastic job on that interior. Having to spray in those temps must be very challenging, we're getting close…

Oh I did no modeling at all last week in that heat...  we had high windsw coming in from the direction that my garage opens as well, so between the two, wind and heat, it was a weather cancellation until Friday when it finally cooled off to more seasonal temperatures and the winds died.

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Greg I'm calling my UN AUF1 done. This was a trying build from the very start and I wish there was a way of  showing the interior of this beast. It's a very large model and really detailed. Thanks for allowing me in at such a late date, please pick any photo you see works best.

hey terry

very nice build and weathering, certainly not overdone. while painting with white can be annoying, weathering over white is also a challenge. it takes patience, a keen eye, and  an understanding when enough is enough, especially on modern vehicles. i will have do do another UN vehicle in the future

Wayne thanks, I enjoyed the UN Build even though I got in late. Getting the pigments and oils right were a challenge so I checked out your UNIMOG and others and I think they're close. I'd really like to do another maybe a soft skin next time.

Terry

That looks really good there jibber! I bet it is quite imposing in person.

It's huge, I sat it next to a Marder and it dwarfed it. You have to be getting close on yours?

Yes I am real close to the finish line.... just things like work and working out getting in the way of what's really important. ;-)

Ok my latest progress photos after a very busy morning and midday, I got a couple of hours of work in at the bench afterwards. Mostly detail painting. But first up this update of where I was when I started today:
Road wheels painted and installed:

front glacis plate seams cleaned up and the lower one painted. You may notice a rough area on the trim vane- I accidently touched that area when the paint was still wet and left a fingerprint. I had to sand that off after the paint dried

rear mud flaps painted

hatches all tacked down "buttoned up" for painting

outer faces of sprocket and idler wheels painted white, and sprocket cushion in black (the back sides of these parts are forest green)

I swapped out the kit indy link tracks for some single length Tamiya ones from another 113 based kit in my stash as a time saving measure. After the hot screwdriver method of joining the end, I applied this new Testors enamel tint wash that I picked up at Hobby Lobby last week. Great stuff, and it gave the tracks just the right shade.

I also pre drilled out some holes for some thin rod to keep the tracks down in place once installed. So that is where things stood when I started today's work session.

first up I added eight 2mm long pieces of strip styrene for the spare track brackets

once those had time to dry I sliced up some thin pieces off styrene rod to replicate the washers used to secure the spare track shoes in place on the brackets with 3/4" bolts on the real deal, and glued those in place.

now Academy thoughtfully included some bolts on the sprues that I will add after shaving them off of the sprues. I love how they include these things on some of their kits. A huge but of little detail items that make all the difference in the world for spicing things up in miniature

I mixed up a shade of bare steel using 2 parts Testors Chrome Silver to 1 part Testors Flat Steel that I am using on the tracks, sprocket, and idler wheel surfaces that have metal to metal contact in real life and get polished up from that in use.

So that is where it stands now. After some family business this evening I will dry brush steel on the grouser portion of the track shoes that contact the ground on hardball roads and after that paint the track pads black. Then let it all dry overnight before the next phase of installation tomorrow.

You have got a lot done, nice work  on the spare track and the Testors wash looks really interesting, I'll have to pickup some. Your extra tracks, how close are they to fitting and are you adding the styrene to create a sag or to tighten them up? It's coming along nicely, not many of us left here.

Nope, just we merry few here... Lol! The Tamiya tracks are a bit loose in fit. I am gonna add sag by using metal rods inserted into holes that I drilled the other day over the first and last road wheels with the track test fitted. The side armor that I still need to add will come down to the top of the road wheels, so not too much will be visible there.

Thought so, should work out nice.

And today's build update... last night after family business and before bed I finished painting up the tracks. Dry brushed Testors Flat Steel on the grouser road contact surfaces and then Floquil Weathered Black on the Track Pads

Then this morning the final stages of construction began. I glued on the idler and sprocket wheels and placed the tracks on as well. As you can see they were a bit a springy and loose fitting

then I added some brass wire pins into holed that I had pre drilled to tamp down the upper track runs

then I added the side laminate armor plates. Once those had set I began to add the final detail parts as well

exhaust pipe

right side grab handle/step

left side grab handle/step

smoke grenade launchers

pioneer tool shovel and spare track shoe mounting bolts

pioeer tool pick mattock head and handle

pioneer tool axe, tankers bar, and maching gun tripod.. I also added a bit of strip styrene to teh shovel mount to make a proper bracket instead of having it free floating on the upper side

and a couple of overall views

I have puttied up where the side laminate armor joins the rear plate and am waiting for that to dry to sand it later and then I can begin final painting...