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Great work going on here Gents . Finally did the pit for the Cutlass. The pe set really dresses up things, adding some really nice details . The IP instruments have a drop of Clear Parts cement for the glass face. I still have to shoot some clear flat on the pit (less the IP) to kill a bit the shine of the pe consoles and need to paint the head cushion grey. The camera flash makes colors look a bit lighter.
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Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Looking good PJ, I like that green colour.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Thanks Bish. It' s a bit brighter cause of the camera flash but it's interior green equivalent to RLM 83 according to my color cross reference guide. As I was reading, the very early F7's had a yellow green seat and green pit. The later ones had the interior green pit and seat. The Fujimi instructions have all the color callouts wrong. No surprise there.
Was this a standard colour for the period. As it looks in your pics, it reminds me of the Soviet interior green.
Yep, according to my references. It looks a bit darker without the camera flash.
Looks good PJ!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Looking very nice junkie!
Thanks Gents!
Office looks nice PJ
Great looking seat PJ!
I managed to get some building in today and gave the office and gear bays a wash with some ProModeller black
Also added some lead so it wo'nt be a tail sitter More detail added to the Engine , lots more to go here. Not going to be %100 accurate but I'm hoping it will pass for something close
Also added some lead so it wo'nt be a tail sitter
More detail added to the Engine , lots more to go here. Not going to be %100 accurate but I'm hoping it will pass for something close
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That's looking nice Trey.
Woody..Thanks
Trey..Thanks. You are doing a great job on the Salamander. I picked one up from a special sale Squadron had a while ago. They also had all the resin updates for it really cheap but unfortunately, they were sold out by the time I got to it. I'm hoping they run another resin sale again.
Bish thanks,thanks
PJ thanks, is the resin upgrade the one with just the tail feathers?
Finished plumbing the engine after a marathon session today,I used a combo of stretched sprue and solder
I am having a really bad time with this academy F3 Banshee.
I will require loads of filling and sanding to get a somewhat acceptable wingroot fit.....I just hate filling!
If it had nice detail I might have continued, but allas it sucks!
I think I will keep my sanity in tact (the little that is left ;-) and maybe pick up another model for this GB later......
Thanx
Theuns
Trey
The resin updates were for the cockpit in general, another just for the seat, another for the engine and a nose gear detail set.
Ohhh, that engine with all the extra wiring looks awesome Trey!
Theuns: I know what you mean about sucky kits, maybe just finish the thing off quick and dirty and move on to something better?
My sanity is worth more to me than a sucky kit , just cut my losses and move on. LOL
I might get something else for the GB.
Lol, well if she's that bad I don't blame you a bit!
Ok, finally some photos here, sorry they aren't the best- cell phone camera under not so great lighting conditions.
Cockpit, seems Korean War Sabres had the cockpits painted black, I used dark grey but it still seems to turn into a black hole of detail.
The kit came with a complete jet engine and the intakes. I went ahead and painted the interior ducting though I doubt much will be visible. You can cut the kit to show the engine off but I didn't do this so I didn't paint the outside of the engine and intakes at all:
The kit builds into a F-86F with the 'hard' unslatted wing. I picked up some substitute decals for a F-86E with the slatted wing. A friend at our modeling club had this sheet of instructions on where to scribe to get the look of closed slats on the wing leading edge:
Great progress Gamera, and looking very good.
Thanks! I'm really impressed with this kit, if it wasn't for trying to putty and sand the insides of the intake ducts I'd probably be painted and decaling right now. Pretty much a fall together kit.
Gamera, is that the Academy #2162? I have it in my stash and heard bad things about the included decals being crap. They are very colorful and it's a shame if in fact they are no good.
It's this kit, sorry not sure about the number though.
I love the kit decals and the father of one of the members of our IPMS club worked ground crew the box top aircraft, but I'd heard about issues with them too so I bought another set. I'm going to try to paint the yellow bands, wish me luck on that!
Yep that's what I have. I heard they replaced the decals with better ones made by Cartograph, mine unfortunately are made in Korea and must be the ones with the problem. I just may have to get a replacement decal set. I think that if you spray white first then the yellow will be more uniform.
P.J
Now it time to work on your GB with a 1/72 Hasegawa Me 262. It looks like it will go pretty fast.
Ill keep the Dora for the next Butcher Bird build or something. Steve
Ill keep the Dora for the next Butcher Bird build or something.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
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Steve: Looks very cool, and I think I built that 262 maybe twenty years ago or so. Seem to remember it going together, no muss, no fuss, only hold-up was trying to paint those little ink blots in the camo in 1/72nd.
PJ: Yeap, I'm aiming to hit her with a coat of white primer to find any issues before the aluminum paint. It ought to work ok under the yellow bands. I did encounter one problem last night though, after cementing the fuselage together I find a 2 mm gap between the intake and the duct. I guess I must have put the cockpit and intake too far back, I dunno. I took some paper and rolled it up and fitted it inside as a tube and laid some Mr. Surfacer on the gaps, looks ok to me now- hope it holds up.
Steve, I was eyeing that kit up for a while but took a different route, look forward to seeing this one. The 190 will work nicely for the 1945 GB.
Sounds good Bish,
I'll definitely use it for that. Especially since I have 2 other 190's I can use for the next Butcher Bird build.
Gamera I took some paper and rolled it up and fitted it inside as a tube and laid some Mr. Surfacer on the gaps, looks ok to me now- hope it holds up.
I took some paper and rolled it up and fitted it inside as a tube and laid some Mr. Surfacer on the gaps, looks ok to me now- hope it holds up.
Of course!...... The old rolled paper with Mr Surfacer to cover up the gap trick! The boys in the lab have to hear about your method!
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