Wayne,

Nice build! The weathering looks spot on to me, although I've never seen one in person.

I put you up on the wall.

calling the SCUD done though i still need to build a revetment base and not sure how big it will be, depending on if it's going to be a diorama. i might have over weathered it but some of that may tone down on a sand base. it is Vallejo sand yellow with a raw umber oil wash followed by a pastel mix of yellow, orange, brown and light gray.

NOTE decided to strip down the missile and repaint it aged white tinted with tan. BTW finishing up a TAKOM Skoda 305mm and just picked up the 420mm Big Bertha.

I got you updated Jack. I'm with Gam here, I'm in no position to give you advice.

Steve

Very cool entry Jack. Dunno if you need any advice from me since you're a better modeler than I am but personally since it's mostly the same colour I'd assemble the whole thing and spray her a couple times with a darker shade and then hit her with a little lighter from the top for the whole pre-shading thing.

Welp, I better start something soon for this one.  Interest in my original entry for an Italian mortar has waned, so thinking of AFV Club's sIG33:

Since these subjects tend to have a lot of nooks and crannies, would it be beneficial to spray paint everything while still on the sprues - do ppl still do that?  On the other hand, the paint could pose a problem with liquid cement even after cleaning the mating surfaces - any thoughts?

regards,

Jack

Jay,  a V2 would be just fine. 

Very cool Jay, sorry to hear about your issues there. You should be able to find lots of stuff like K&S and Evergreen as Steve pointed out.

JayW

Trying to decide if i should sand these latches off and use the PE ones

I probably would. 

Some update photos,

Ready to prime the main body and chassis.

Trying to decide if i should sand these latches off and use the PE ones

JayW

Haha thanks. It's not as much about size, but quality that intimidates. Haven't done a model in years since I was younger and didn't have much patience then. This will be my first with using an airbrush and PE parts.

 

so many off color responses running thru my sordid brain. 

Jay if you are airbrushing with acrylics i suggest buying the appropriate thinner and cleaner. It eliminates one variable and you don't have to worry about a bad reaction. for example i use windex to clean MMA and Tamiya, and ComArt BUT Vallejo cleaner for Vallejo and Air because windex gums it up.  i have an old Jadgpanzer i shoot a bit first to see if the paint is the right thinness. anything with a large flat surface would work. i prime everything (ACE Hardware NOW gray). 

as for results you never know. i got a new detail A/B and wanted to try freehand camo so i took an Airfix 1/76 MK-IV and did a 3 color . inexpensive kit and quick build so no great loss. looked ok so i practiced overlaying various oil filters. it took a first at club, local, and regional contest which was quite a surprise. 

it took me forever to get into airbrushing. what id i screw up the brush, dont clean it well blah, blah, blah. just jump in. 3 years later i can A/B fairly well BUT will still have a kit that goes south or have a day where nothing goes right. walk away the next day doing the same thing and all goes well.

PE can be annoying. Don't feel you have to add every piece. i have left pieces off because the dot of CYA to hold it would be bigger than the part. build what is comfortable. if you have a comple part fold, skeych it out on an index card and practice folding it until you are sure you know how before doing the part. my first folds were so bad i had to scratch build 6 ammo can racks for a 20mm on an italian pt boat. but i learned a lot.

Funny, Steve, I just read you were going to start the rail gun, and now it's done! LOL! Great job! 

Terry, the spotlight looks great! looks like you are close to wrapping this one up!

Dang Steve, you're building at Toshi-velocity now! Even considering the size there had to be a lot of tiny pieces there. 

And she looks good, nice work on the gun, the basework and the figures. Esp that horrible rubbery green army men plastic, I hate working with that stuff. 

I went ahead and finished it. The wife is prepping for T-giving diner so I was up anyway.
Here is. Sorry to finish it before you blinked. It was a great little kit and would recommend it to anyone who wants a rail gun but doesn't have the room. Really nice detail and some PE which I did not install. The men and ammo are made from the rubbery plastic, but worked out OK.

Steve

I'm at the weathering stage. I applied a black oil wash and will let that dry before I apply some pastels.

For some reason Imageshack isn't uploading pictures correctly, so here is what I wanted to put up last night.

I got some painting done this morning (no pictures yet) and working on the little guys.

Wow that K5 went up fast, even in a smaller scale its a complicated set of vehicles.

Terry

Thanks Steve, glad I'm not the only one there! 

And I don't see the photos either, will check back later. 

And, and I did pull out the base for the B-4 and add some dry-brushing and a wash to the 'dirt'. Hopefully I'll be able to apply the 'grass' this weekend and then I'll get some photos up.

I started the K5 tonight for the Weekend Madness GB and after 2 1/2 hours I completed the building. I will start the painting a little tomorrow morning and evening.

The pictures don't seem to be loading on the forums tonight.

There used to be an old game called Pacific War. It was a strategic level WW2 "board" game, obviously in the Pacific, and started on Dec 7 with all the players, ships and aircraft located where they were on that fateful day. After the first move the game responded to whatever decisions you made. The game tried to stick to the Japanese (if you chose the ally side) planning such as Midway and Guadalcanal, but it depended on what you did, whether or not the game proceeded with the plans. Each turn was 1 day to several days depending on what you set them as and the game could last for years depending on how long you set the turns. It was such a cool game and stole hundreds of hours from my life. So I know of what you speak.

I miss that game so much.

You can use her as a nightlight too! All joking aside I love what you've done here, you've done all this and I can't even get my tiny dio with about a half-dozen figures done... 

Steve- you're going to have to drive out here and lock my PC and Fallout IV in a closet... 

You should try that Dragon 1/144 K5 that I'm starting tonight. That should be small enough.

Thanks Steve just winding this down, I cant wait to start another one but a lot smaller this time.

jibber

I think I'll keep it b ut I need to comactit a bit.  It's throwing off more light in the dark than I thought. 

Searchlight is painted and installed. I stuck the battery and switch to the tower floor and covered it with a piece of netting for now. I think I'll keep it b ut I need to comactit a bit. 

It's throwing off more light in the dark than I thought. 

Terry

modelcrazy

I typically don't mask tires myself. I hand paint them with Grimy Black acrylic. I found that to be a close match to tire black IMHO.  After weathering with an oil wash with black and then dusting with brown pastels they turn out pretty nice. 

 

i don't mask tires either. i prime and airbrush or brush paint the hubs. i brush paint the tires MMA engine gray and wash them with burnt umber or black oils when i do the hubs.  if they are rubber tires i "paint" a heavy MMA engine gray wash to tone the black down. as MC said after weathering with powders they look great.

I typically don't mask tires myself. I hand paint them with Grimy Black acrylic. I found that to be a close match to tire black IMHO.  After weathering with an oil wash with black and then dusting with brown pastels they turn out pretty nice.