Gamera

Try next time using a wide soft brush but make sure to let some of the Future run down the side of the bottle. I lightly touch the inside of the bottle with the bristles to bleed off excess Future. You don't want to flood the area, then brush to cover the model. You can re coat within a few minutes cause it dries fairly quickly. I do this several times to build up the gloss finish which comes out super smooth.

Aqua Gloss on the other hand sprays smooth from the get go. Just make sure to cycle enough water thru the ab to clean it otherwise it will lock up the needle in the tip if left sitting for too long so keep it moving.

For the canopies I use Simoniz Swirl Remover applied with a q tip then removed with an old cotton t shirt. This stuff is great as it removes any scratches or junk. I then dip it in Future and the clarity magnifies several times once dry in a few minutes. 

plasticjunkie

Gamera

Aqua Gloss on the other hand sprays smooth from the get go. Just make sure to cycle enough water thru the ab to clean it otherwise it will lock up the needle in the tip if left sitting for too long so keep it moving.

 

Sorry for popping in here but I've been following the thread with hopes of joining at some point. My question is do you guys thin the Aqua Gloss or shoot it straight from the bottle?

The best results I've had using Aqua gloss have been straight from the bottle, low PSI, and moving slow in my strokes to get it REALLY wet. I get the smoothest finish that way. A heavy layer with this stuff works great for me. I tried seveal light layers but never did get it right.

BK

Shoot it straight from the bottle as gamera explained and do NOT shake it cause you will get tons of bubbles. I lightly swirl it around in the bottle a few times and pour it into the ab cup.

PJ: Thanks! I'll keep that in mind if I try to hand brush the Future. I have some Aqua Gloss too but so far haven't used it. I mostly just use Model Master Clear Gloss. I do use Alclad's matte finish, that is some great stuff. I just spray it straight from the bottle. I've had Model Master and Vajhello matte turn white before but the Alclad matte always works like a charm so I'm sure the Aqua Gloss is good stuff. 

And thanks the tip on the Simoniz Swirl Remover. Thankfully I haven't had any badly scratched clear parts in a while. But I'll keep that in mind if I do find some. 

Sounds nice and easy. I've yet to be really happy with a gloss coat that I've done. As you said PJ, I don't like the finish I get with Future through the AB. I've heard a lot of people around here using the Aqua Gloss and really want to give it a try. Thanks for the feedback!

I'll be going to a couple model shows in the coming months and will be looking to pick something up for this GB

I tried Alclad Aqua for the first time this weekend, i was really impressed. I always find Future, no matter how careful i am, sprays a bit thick. On armour build where there are ,lots of small portrusions, especially on the engine decks, the future bulds up. But i had no problems with the Alclad and sprayed it straight from the bottle.

Looks like i will be relegating whats left of my future to canopy dipping and touching up small bits with a brush.

Got most of the decals on both. It's very time consuming adding those tiny stencils that I have to go hunt thru several left over sheets in my spares box.

That tail art looks wicked awesome. I will be replacing the plastic pitots with thin brass wire.

also shot the FOD covers red

Still have to stencil/decal the bottoms of both and work on the weapons.

They're both lookin' phantastic PJ! 

Super AWESOME SAUCE, PJ.  Man I love those F-4's. My fave jet of all time.

BK

Superb job PJ 

I do like those PJ, looking really nice. Some of those decals look like they were tricky to apply. Was the red nose a decal or painted with decal stars.

Gamera

 

And thanks the tip on the Simoniz Swirl Remover. Thankfully I haven't had any badly scratched clear parts in a while. But I'll keep that in mind if I do find some. 

 

Meguire's and 3M also have a simular product.  Try an auto body/paint supply outlet for them if not inyour local McParts house.

PJ - those are looking great. Like the red nose and stars.

Thanks gents!

Bish

I shot the radome withTestors flat red in the small bottle which is a perfect match for the red tail decal. I then glossed up the plane with Aqua Gloss and when dry then applied each star, one at a time.

Thanks Tj

Now you are really motivating me to press on with mine. Good looking work thus far, PJ.

BK

PJ, looks liek you got those stars lined up nicley, it looks really nice. Good to see those two ready for action.

Ohhhhhhhhhhh, phabulous to see them all armed up PJ! 

Thanks guys. The J Winders came off since they are the USAF version so thanks stik for the heads up. They came right off the rails with no damage since they were attached with Aleene's. So back to the spares box for the proper Winder load. 

Since I finally got moving on my F-4B I thought I might get a few shots uploaded so you can see the progress thus far. First off, this kit is top notch. Fit and finish is just superb and the detail level is excellent. Academy makes a very nice kit indeed.

As per the usual I began with the pit and since I haven't built a modern kit in many many many years, and when I did there was no paint and tube glue only, I am following the instructions to the letter. I'm sure this will give me fits in places but I really have no reference to follow otherwise.

The painting of the instrument panels was not very easy as the F-4 had greyish panels and black gauges and switch panels. SO, I began by painting the full pit grey and then masked off the areas I wanted to leave grey and then shot the rest again with MM Interior black. I then hand painted the round gauges and followed that up by using a toothpick to "polish" the black inside each gauge after which I applied Future to shine up the glass a bit. I also hand picked a few switchs and then dry brushed the panels to bring out the small details. I thought about hand painting each switch but the photos showed that most of the pit had very little detail between the swithes and the panels, so I felt dry brushing would be better overall. Im pretty happy with the results. I still need to build and paint the seats, those are next.

Once the pit was done I also built up the landing gear and wheel bays and added the upper wings as per the kit details. Painting around this may prove to be a bit of a challange but I can't see any other way to paint it before or after assembly. I'll just have to do my best.

I also built up and painted the engines exhaust. I used Alclad Jet engine Exhaust paint and followed that up with some of Tamiya's details kits of burnt orange and blue to bring out the nice details and give the tips some heated look. Its hard to see in the photo but the effect is pretty good. The left one is just paint and the right one is weathered. More to come as I move along.

BK

Like I previously mentioned, the Academy F4s are very well detailed and go together with no putty or fillers. I have built the B and J and can't recall any issues. 

BK your pit looks perfect. You just need to add some belts unless you use the figures which look very good too.

Hey BK, that's a fine looking cockpit! 

Well I got a little done on my viper. Not the greatest cockpit but considering once it's snugged down inside you won't be able to see much of it - that should do...

I tried to simulate the destinctive oil canning on the back of the fuselage but it was a spectacular failure  :-(

Theuns

Ouch, you've got more guts than I. I'd be terrified to try something like that on an expensive kit. Maybe you could dig out an old one or buy something cheap to practice on?

Well, I've always been told, "nothing ventured, nothing gained". I like that you gave it a go, and I don't think it's an epic failure. I think you will play with it some more and be surprised with the results. 

BK

Ah well, can't win them all :-)

I will see what the paint does

Theuns

Finally got both Phantoms done. Besides taking care of the intake cover gaps, they went together very easily. The FOD covers were a little finiky to put together but otherwise a fairly simple scratch work detail.