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75th Anniversary of 1942 (World at War)

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Thursday, August 17, 2017 4:27 PM

Outstanding fix up, stik, and great looking paintwork.  Those colors really look good together.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Thursday, August 17, 2017 4:26 PM

Very fine, Eric.  I've updated the build roster.  Looking forward to seeing your work!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, August 17, 2017 2:56 PM

Looking god Stik, nice job on the paint. Are you useing the kit decals.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Thursday, August 17, 2017 2:39 PM

Nice cleanup on that chin scoop Stik! I like that RLM 79 color tooYes

-Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, August 17, 2017 2:33 PM

 

After work last night I decided to go with some gel CA as filler to clean up the chin scoop seam. This morning after I got up and got going, I went straight to work on sanding. A few minutes of wet sanding from coarse to fine and all cleaned up.

 

 

Then I prepped the airbrush and paint and did touch ups on the RLM 78 Blau on the chin scoop and along the fuselage sides.... especially over the wings and on the supercharger intake scoop... much better now

 

 

 

 

 

 

After giving that time to dry, I began removing the masking tape... 

 

 

 

and in direct sunlight...

 

 

I'm really liking this now....

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, August 17, 2017 7:01 AM

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Eric,. yep, i know exactly what you mean. Even just on excersise, it didn't take long for our wagons to get covered in dust and dirt. It soon got to the stage where you couldn't even make out the camo. And it sure is not fun spending all day in somone elses dust trail. I spent 2 tours in cities in Iraq, i can only imagine what it must have been like in Stalingrad and places like it.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, August 17, 2017 4:55 AM

I do like the project Bish. One thinks of big battles in Russia (or ETO for that matter) as being in the open steppe, hedgerows, etc or in cities - Stalingrad, Berlin, Caen. But anywhere you found buildings - small villages, small towns, bigger towns or even farms there was a very good chance for a shoot-out. Buildings are great cover for anything - snipers, tanks in ambush, infantry strongpoints - and the ability of getting the bad guys out of buildings is the operational art of war at a high level. So I look forward to seeing the dio. And that kind of fighting would likely increase dirt on vehicles. I know a lot of people talk of "over-weathering." If you're talking about buckets of chipping, lots of rust, super fading the criticism can be valid. Very few tanks stayed in the field for long, although those that did could certainly look a fright. But unless you're talking the depot, vehicles in the field would have been always dirty. Whether you're going across dry dirt, mud or snow any tank is going to be dirty and dusty. Tank tracks guarantee it. And when a tank was on the move, it was rarely alone, so the guy in front of you is kicking dust right into your face. (I've talked to quite a few tank crewmen, and dust in the interior - and in the lungs - was an unending problem.) Anyway, your tank looks, above all, really blinking dirty. That fits the dio like a glove. 

I've decided to do the Tamiya Panzer IVD - and it will be a casualty of the dreadful fighting in the first three months of 1942. (So base building info on dios is of interest.) It came out in 1976 and was built for an electric motor. This is the third early Tamiya tank I've built (my first tank was the ancient PanzerII). It's actually a real step up. Some odd holes to fit electric junk, but no problem, I'm going to be adding holes of my own. I'd say the detail is good - I'd guess the part count at about 140 - high for those early kits. I won't bother with pics for a while - no real excitement about construction. Right now I'm doing road wheels. That's a job I like - one of my favorite tasks in modelling. You only need about 30% of your brain when you're assembling them, so there's a lot left over to listen to Chopin or Beethoven. I'll check in before priming.

Just saw a very neat video build from Andy's Hobby Headquarters (the guy isn't great, but builds very fast and ends up with very nice kits: his videos are great for those learning armor modeling. And he's prolific and his 30 min builds are more informative than a box review.) He just did a new Dragon-Platz Panzer IVD. Get this. Dragon is beginning to understand that as the market ages, and Tamiya is putting out super armor kits with part counts under 300, that they can't stay completely with their super detail kits. Platz is a Japanese firm (they did a series of kits to accompany one of the strangest anime series I've ever heard of coming from Japan - High School Girls and Panzers) and has a good rep. Dragon took the new tool Platz PZIV and added some Dragon touches like their great DS tracks. The part count is 175 - a 1/35 kit from  Dragon. (Clearly labeled Dragon-Platz) A few years back they did the same model with battle of France box art and the part count pushed 1,000 (I know they aren't all used, but a Dragon project can be a long one.) I think that's great. My hand-eye coordination is not going to improve with age, and a bad fight with very complex PE for a German battlecruiser proved to me that without a doubt that for yours truly PE is "less is more." I find weathering and making dios much more fun that creating the perfect kit. I admire the people that do pursue fine detail - the best ship and armor modelers set a very high bar. But when I was in junior high, I prefered art over shop - maybe that says something.

Keep things rolling gents - good GB here.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 7:07 PM

checkmateking02

Nice work, stik.  Good looking color!

I hate when I find a seam--after painting.  Bang Head

 

Me too! I can tell that I'm rushing this build. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 7:05 PM

Both the panzer and the building are exceptional, Bish.  Fine work, and marvelous!  Great weathering.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 7:03 PM

Nice work, stik.  Good looking color!

I hate when I find a seam--after painting.  Bang Head

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 6:20 PM

Bish, both your base and Panzer II are looking fantastic! Excellent work!

After breakfast I was able to get in another airbrush session... first I did a coat of dark gray for the canopy frame interior color, again using Gunze...

and then the upper surface color of RLM 79 Brown. 

After work tonite I'll clean up that horrid seam on the chin scoop, and then tomorrow I'll touch up that, and the side fuselage demarcation between the 78 and 79... 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 3:29 PM

Cheers Andy.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 3:27 PM

Bish that tank and building look great! Thanks for sharing your process, it's coming together nicely!

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 2:32 PM

checkmateking02

Going good, stik.

I do use gel superglue for some filling work--just haven't tried it for wing/fuselage gaps.

That last photo of the 109 kinda reminded me of this:

Very creative photography!

 

Just hope he doesn't start shooting 20mm cannon shells of of the twin barrels Big Smile

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 2:29 PM

Getting close to the end now. The tank and building are done. Just got to finish the figures and bring it all together.

So, first the tank. Some light streaking with AK streak effects were followed by the kit going on. I got a set of value Gear boxes and added a backpack and Jerry cans.

Next some AK dust efefcts. I used dark earth colours lwer down and added light dust effects higher up. As soon as this was done i removed the effects from around the wheels and areas where thye crew would have climbed and brushed dust away.

And then finally some pigments. dark earth colours were applied lw down by mixing in water and slapping it on. Once dry excess was removed. Lighter colours were added higher up followe by brick and concrete pigments all over.

I do need to add some rope that would hold down the equipment, and bare metal for the teeth on the drive sprockets. But other than that, its done.

And then the building. Firstly i needed to add grass around the outside. I used a mix of scatters and grass tufs of different lengths and colours.

And then the rubble. I start with a core of uncolured celluclay. Then while wet add bricks, debris and brick dust. This is built up over several days so as not to pile in to much as once.

Once the vehicle is in place i can add a bit more around it. But for now thats it. Now i can focus on the figures and get this wrapped.

 

 

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:53 PM

stikpusher

 

 

Well, the fist paint is on... RLM 78 Blue on the lowers... which revealed some seam clean up needs a little touch up...  

 

 

Im using Gunze Aqueous here. I forgot how much that I really liked that paint. Too bad they are no longer imported.

 

 

Looks really good stik! Those seams always have a way of popping up. I've heard so many good things about Gunze Aqueous. I'd love to try them if they were easier to get a hold of.

-Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:26 PM

 

 

Well, the fist paint is on... RLM 78 Blue on the lowers... which revealed some seam clean up needs a little touch up...  

 

 

Im using Gunze Aqueous here. I forgot how much that I really liked that paint. Too bad they are no longer imported.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:30 PM

Yes

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:05 PM

Check, ya know, you could put a spiral on his nose... Wink

 

the resemblance is purely coincidental... 

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:41 PM

Going good, stik.

I do use gel superglue for some filling work--just haven't tried it for wing/fuselage gaps.

That last photo of the 109 kinda reminded me of this:

Very creative photography!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:15 PM

Thanks Check. Try out some gel CA sometime as a filler.

A little while ago I test fitted the main landing gear...

 

 

 

Now I feel like giving some Tim Allen grunts of success.. ARRG ARRGGGHH ARR!!!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 6:49 PM

Good looking paintwork, stik.

And thanks for the information!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 5:13 PM

Check, I only needed to add a small amount of filler on the wing root seams on this build, and I used gel CA. I let it dry a few hours then wet sanded it with no problems at all. There is a "sweet spot" for gel CA glue that you have before the stuff really hardens up like granite. If you let it dry more than say 6 -8 hours, the real work is in store. I have never tried Mr Surfacer 500. I have the 1000 stuff and sand that like everything else I use.

 

LET THE PAINTING COMMENCE!!!

 

Last night I masked up the canopy and had it ready to glue in place this morning. So first thing today I glued it in place, then went and did my errands while it dried.

 

 

then after errands I did my air brushing. Working light to dark, Flat White then Satin White on the nose, tail band and wingtips, RLM 02 Gray on the landing gear and wheel wells, and Satin black on intake openings and the main wheel hubs. All enamels today, mostly Humbrol, except for the RLM 02 where I used Model Master. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll let this all dry overnite, mask it up in the morning, then apply the main colors of Blue RLM 78 and Brown RLM 79 tomorrow as things stand right now.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 4:21 PM

Highly commendable progress, stik.  Looking really good.

What do you use for filling in wing/fuselage seams?  My usual method (thinned white glue) has been giving me trouble lately.  

For years, I've used thinned white glue (Elmer's), painting it into the seam; let it dry; then wipe off the over-runs with a damp q-tip.  Then, paint; run a pinwash of black into the seam, and it looks like a normal connection or panel line.  The method doesn't seem to get much use these days, but it was published years ago in FSM.  When it works, it fills the seam nicely, and no sanding, with no loss of details.  

Lately, the glue has been leaving tiny little pinholes when it dries, instead of filling completely. Repeated applications to fill the holes have not solved the issues.  The holes reappear.

I'm looking for an optional technique.  I've heard that Mr Surfacer 500 can be used much the same way, only it's wiped down with alcohol on a q-tip; and again, no sanding.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, August 14, 2017 11:14 PM

Dan, great work on the Tante Ju! I can believe that you are handbrushing this build! I need to try to do that again. It's a lost art for me.

 

The past 48 hours or so has been major progress on this build. As I said before, I added the wings and the engine cowl, as well as add the supercharger scoop

 

 

 

And then since during seam clean up I sanded away a couple details that I could not easily replace by scribing due to difficulties with my scribing template in that area, so I added a couple pieces of strip styrene to replace those details.

 

 

Today I sanded those strips down to a more scale thickness to replicate the lost details

 

 

I cleaned up the wing join seams

 

 

 

And on the bottoms after seam clean up I added the drop tank rack, where I had to replace one broken off brace, and some blisters (not sure what they are for...)

 

 

I also added the tropical air filter, which for this kit was molded in the open position, so I hollowed out the opening

 

 

I cleaned up,the mold seam lines and ejector pin marks off the landing gear struts and doors, and glued those together, as well as cleaning up the seam on the drop tank

 

 

lastly I added the horizontal stabilizers and tack glued the spinner in place... NOW it looks like a 109....

 

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, August 14, 2017 3:10 PM

Looking very sharp, Dan.  Nice work with a paintbrush!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Sunday, August 13, 2017 8:24 PM

Thanks Stikpusher: The 109 is coming along great.

Thanks Bish: Your Panzer, building & figures are lookin' great.

Thanks Checkmate.

Rooster: Nice weather engine.

Been busy with the Lancaster, but have been plugging away with the Ju52.

Fuselage complete, need some filling. But nothing like the Bf-110.

 9 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

From the aircraft being so small I decided to brush paint. First up was Model Master Acrylic white primer. Applied two coats.

 11 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

 12 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

Then Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue for RLM 65 for the bottom. I had first put down Model Master Acrylic RLM 65 but it was to thin.

 13 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

 

Next was Tamiya XF-2 Flat White on the top and side. As it turns out it' pretty hard brush painting a straight line, so I'm going to let the paint cure then mask the edges.

 14 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

 15 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

 

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, August 13, 2017 12:26 PM

Looking forward to seeing more, stik; the 109 is such an elegant aircraft.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, August 12, 2017 3:31 PM

EB and check, thanks for looking in. The styrene did the job better in that fix than any filler really could. I've got the wings glued on now and they are drying. Seam clean up tonite or tomorrow...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, August 12, 2017 2:02 PM

Another innovative and effective fix, stik.  Nice work.

Eric:  A lot of options to consider; any of them would make a nifty project.

 

 

 

 

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