Battle of Midway Group Build, 3 June, 2017 - 7 June, 2018

Incompatibility sucks, like, how many different shapes for a connector or sizes for a SIMM card, that all perform equally, do we really need?

Unfortunately, Scott, I just tried to download some from the camera to the computer--and discovered that this new laptop doesn't have the right jack to accept the photocard!

I have to do it from work, now.

Sometimes, I don't really like technology.

checkmateking02

Know what you mean, Dwayne.  When the energy isn't there, nothing much gets done.  On the positive side, I managed to get the underside of the SBD painted this afternoon--so I made some progress.

 

I hope to see some pictures

I got some work done on the Akagi yesterday.  A whole much of tiny odds and ends parts and all the boats installed.  I didn't have a chance to get pictures yet. I also got all the planes painted up and these are now all ready to have the decals put on them.

Scott

Know what you mean, Dwayne.  When the energy isn't there, nothing much gets done.  On the positive side, I managed to get the underside of the SBD painted this afternoon--so I made some progress.

Same here with the Wildcat.  I am finally done with the pit, and got the fuselage together.  Then....nothing.  When I have had a little time, I just have not had the energy.  Hopefully I can get some done this weekend.  Weather is a little warmer, so that may help. 

I know what you mean, scott.  I've had an SBD masked since Monday, ready to paint--and haven't been able to get back to it.

Maybe over the weekend?

Wow, I have not had a chance to sit down and finish the Akagi in the last twelve days.  I hope to get back to it soon, not much left to do.  

Coming along swell D on your wildcat.  

Temps in KS are now in the single digits and now the wind has picked up, and with 74% humidity, now brings the temps to the minus numbers.

We also have had not a lick of rain, or even a few snow drops, since early October.  

Once my fingers can stay warm, I hope to finish the Akagi today.

Hey D that IP and office look smashing!

We are in the 50s here in Central Fl. so the temps are comfortable for any outdoor activity. I love it when I can garden and not have one drop of sweat on my forehead. The pool water is a bit chilly at 52F so forget taking a dip LOL.

Nice work, Dwayne.  Exceptional looking instruments in the panel!

I know what you mean about the temps; here it's been windchills of 29 below.

Finally made some progress on my Wildcat.  Here are a couple of quick pics of the cockpit:

IMG_0708 by Dwayne Munk, on Flickr

IMG_0709 by Dwayne Munk, on Flickr

A quick wash, and I should be ready to move on.  This has been a slow build.  My bench is in the basement, it is 0 degrees outside, and the basement is a little on the cold side.

Scott, that carrier looks great!  You conquered the decal issue quite well.  In reading Jack "Dusty" Kleiss' book about being a dive bomber at Midway, he said he used that big red ball as a target.  He couldn't believe the Japanese would give him such an obvious aiming point.

Scott, been watching this, really impresive work on that, looks amazing.

I do get why the had the rising sun on the deck, but you would think once they went into action, they would paint it over. All it needs is a big sign with an arrow, 'Drop bombs here'

The joys of decals, scott!  But it looks like you whipped them into shape.  It's a very sharp looking carrier.  Even if it made them an obvious target, the sun motif is dramatic and striking.

Nice work!

Thanks PJ,  that little voice in my head was telling me to let it set for a day or two, but I didn't listen. Overall, everything seems to be curing nicely, and I am waiting a few days before I shoot it with a final coat of flat.  I think I lucked out.  

I used to use Solvaset, but it got hard to get, but now Amazon carries it, so I should order a few bottles.   

Scott

Scott

Any time Future is used , you need to let it cure for at lest 24 hours otherwise the decal solutions react on it. I let it cure for at least 2 days if not more just in case. If it clouds up let it dry then either brush or shoot more Future. This should correct it for the most part.

Looks like you got it under control and looks good from here.

I like using Solvaset over the Set and Sol. At least for me it works better at snuggling down things. 

Thanks guys for the comments, I got the decals on, but not to my expectations, then again, I really didn't have any expectations since this is new to me.  The decals are printed in whole sections, so I gave the deck a shot of Future to prevent silvering.  My instict was to trim and apply each deck line individually, but I didn't follow my instict and applied the whole sections, so when using the MicroSol/Microset, it made those huge sections come apart and a real bear to align. To top it off, the decal solution made the Future soften up and get gummy.  I had to let everything dry and then with MicroSol, soften each little piece one by one and surgically position it with tweezers.  

In the end, I got everything somewhat lined up.  My deck also really darkened up and had constrast that I didn't like, so I have been applying pastel washes to blend and soften everything.

This ship really is easy to see from a distance, I wonder what was going through the dive bomber pilots minds when they saw those bright center line markings leading up to a big red bullseye?

Next up is attaching the deck, island, and all the final details.  Then onto the airwing.

Scott

Those decals will look great on your flat top. Looks outstanding so far.

Hey Scott, the carrier looks great!  That is a lot of decals.  Looking forward to seeing your next progress report.

Looking good from here, scott.  Good luck with the decals.

Finally getting a little bench time now that Christmas is over.  Getting the final coats on the flightdeck and starting to put on the markings.  Who knows how it will turn out.  Painting Japanese ships is a new skillset for me.

Thanks scott. hey forgot to mention that I used my Blue Box 1/6 scale IJN pilot figure as a color guide. This figure is just super detailed down to the strap labels. It came out about 12 years ago and long OOP. They go for a pretty penny on ebay.

PJ, your Val turned out fabulous.

I think you might be right, i found that 48th one on Hannants for about £5.

Maybe they are different from these and it was $8 from Squadron. And forgot to add that each tiedown (lots of them) was picked out with a 10/0 brush and grey paint.

Got ur. On Hannants they are labeled as etched, so i thought that meant PE. And the image simply shows it paiunted so i thought thats how they come. And they are not cheap either, £20 for a 72nd one.

So i don't know why they bother doing US carrier decks from different years when they look the same apart from the colour.

Bish

Thanks PJ. When you say painting, do you mean the whole decak or the markings that go on them, i thought they were pre coloured.

And i take it they are metal.

 

No it's made of white plastic. I first shot Tamiya rattle can fine primer and then made my own wood tone brew from craft acrylics and hand brushed the entire section (less the elevator that was later masked and shot Tamiya Sea Grey). 

I picked out boards here and there with diffrent wood tones. The white lines were masked and shot Tamiya white. I then hand brushed a couple of Future coats and the next day gave it several burnt umber washes to pop the planking. Everything was sealed with Testors flat lacquer.

Thanks PJ. When you say painting, do you mean the whole decak or the markings that go on them, i thought they were pre coloured.

And i take it they are metal.

Thanks guys, appreciate the positive comments.

Bish buddy, the Eduard decks are decent with details but have no painting instructions. I had to go and search out for this detail. They are a bit on the large side and take up a lot of shelf  space. I thought about cutting off a section to make it a bit more compact but I have limited access to my tools in the garage since it's holding my daughter's personal belongings till February when her apartment will be completed and ready to move in. I will then mill some wood strips to frame the deck section out to give it a more finished look.