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RAF 100th Anniversay GB

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  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 9:20 AM

Well Steve, the pick idea is what I would attempt first. IF that was not reasonable or feasable I would close it up and make a hanger in flight bird instead, like Bish mentioned.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 8:52 AM

MAN!!! EB, Justin, TJ, CMK, MC, Damian, Hope I'm not missing any one... What progress! Such a broad base of builds and such good work!... Bish, you need to be nominated for GB Idea of the year( if it were available) ! lol... Amazing guys! 

Well heres my offering...

Un-clamped and ready to continue!

Sorry. Flickr still being a PAIN IN THE AZZ, and not working properly. When I go back and try to select another picture it goes to "Bad Panda" appology screen picture. And I don't want to replace a smashed computer. I'll try later today... Take care all, Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 8:13 AM

Thanks guys, I'll get it somehow.

Funny I started experimenting with black basing before I knew it was such a thing. I stink at pre-shading so much that I ended up basing the whole thing black anyway. I just didn't do the mottling part. I'm going to give that a go with the Tornado.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 7:49 AM

CMK02: Looks good to me! 

Steve: Oh gosh, yeah I've done that a few times including a 1/48th Rafael (either Trumpeteer or Hobbyboss, I don't remember) where I never could get the friggin' well back in place. I ended up just building her in flight, which looks funny since I didn't have a modern French pilot for her... Indifferent

Good luck, crossing my fingers for you. 

Eric: Thanks for the run-down. I haven't visited Doogs site in probably over a year. I'll have to dig out a paint mule and give that a try. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 5:32 AM

Bish

 

 
modelcrazy
Well nuts! I was applying some Silly Putty to the wheel wells, wasn't thinking and pushed the wheel well right out of its glued location. I could fish it out but am going to have a hard time getting it back in correctly. Any ideas without cracking the fuselage open and possibly damaging it beyond repair? I have an idea to drill a hole in the wheel well, put something like a dental tool through the hole, fish it back through the opening, pull it up against its location and re-glue.
 

 

 

Nuts indeed. Short of closeing up the landing gear and doing an in flight build, i think that might be your best option.

 

Steve I think you have the right idea. You could also use a piece of stiff wire as a hook. Might be a little thinner diameter then pick

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 1:04 AM

Some nice work there Eric and nice write up. I have tried black baseing a few times and while i do get some subtle effect on light colours such as light blue undersides i don't have any luck with darker colours.

 

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 1:01 AM

Looking good there check.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 12:56 AM

modelcrazy
Well nuts! I was applying some Silly Putty to the wheel wells, wasn't thinking and pushed the wheel well right out of its glued location. I could fish it out but am going to have a hard time getting it back in correctly. Any ideas without cracking the fuselage open and possibly damaging it beyond repair? I have an idea to drill a hole in the wheel well, put something like a dental tool through the hole, fish it back through the opening, pull it up against its location and re-glue.
 

Nuts indeed. Short of closeing up the landing gear and doing an in flight build, i think that might be your best option.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 12:54 AM

 

 

Reporting in on black basing. Still in testing stage.

 

 

Urge all of you to check Doog's short video “black basing” for a quick introduction. (Since then he has made a series of longer videos on the same subject showing how to use the technique with various camo scheme – including the green and gray I'll be using. There's maybe four hours worth.)

 

The object is to create a surface that shows tonal variation. Doog has a million photos to show what he's talking about (and some examples of models that he doesn't like). He rightly observes that aircraft and tanks show a wide variation of tone and colors that don't match obvious shadow lines along the panels etc. So preshading is out out out. You prime the model in black – not gray. Then you enter the “mottling” stage. Here you paint “small” - very low psi, very close with the airbrush, with the object small dots, thin lines that kind of blanket an area. You're encouraged to use different shades, but more importantly, different concentration. Also different colors – but in this case I was using neutral gray and stuck variations on it. Most of the mottling is the base coat neutral gray; some is a darker shade and some a lighter. Some areas are more heavily covered than others. You can below that the area on the lower half of the wings near the fuselage is more densely mottled than the tips: the front middle is in between. The result looks pretty crummy but it's supposed to. Think of this as a more complex and I think realistic form of preshading. And Doog's right about one thing – look at photos and real aircraft and you don't see panels lines appearing in perfectly symmetry – if you see them at all, they're part of a fruit salad of tones and colors. Do remember that WWII (or service aircraft today) planes didn't get the kind of baked on paint job you'd find on a modern car, and they were assaulted by about every kind of matter that could imaginably make a plane untidy. Here are two pics – one of the whole plane (only did wings and tailplane) and a closeup of a wing.

 

URL=http://s971.photobucket.com/user/ebergerud/media/2017/MotTst1_zps8biuyhox.jpg.html] [/URL]

 

 

 

 

 

 

The mottling stage is followed by the “blending coat” which is the desired base color. Doog wants this coat doing very thin – 80% thinner, low psi and done slowly. What you want to avoid of course is wiping out the irregular surface color you want with the mottling. (Ever put too much paint over a preshade and basically made it pointless?) So again you paint small. I don't care about the money, but Doog is sure right in pointing out that the technique uses an incredibly small amount of paint. (High Flow is usually gloss – Airbrush Extender used as thinner is gloss: yet the finish is satin – shows how little paint is employed because the mule's rough surface acts as a matte varnish.) The entire “blend” was done with a level of paint that barely covered the bottom of the color cup and I poured some out. Note that I painted the nose of the mule (my trusty Eduard LA7) with a clean coat of standard Neutral Gray and it almost looks odd. If the finish looks a little rough, the mule has been well worn – I don't think I even sanded the lacquer primer. So here's what I got after blending over my mottling, to the extent that I could capture it with the camera. I think you can see the surface has a wide range of tones which is what we want:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Overall I'm pleased with the test. But I remain humble. I can't really simply copy Doog. First, he's a far better modeler than I am. Second, he recommends paints that are the best for “painting small” and they are the extremely airbrush friendly acrylic/lacquers – Gunze, Tamiya and the new star Mr. Paint. Doog uses Gunze's splendid Lacquer Levelling Thinner. So he's matching the thinner and the paint's solvent suspending agent. (This kind of thing is a perfect example why so many modelers are fans of Tamiya and its fellow type paints – can't beat them for airbrushing, although poor for hand painting.)

 

But I use water based paints for a lot of reasons. (That's why I used lacquer thinner from a spray can – able to use it outside: I couldn't consider a lacquer paint inside the house. If I didn't die, my wife would kill me.) I haven't tried the new Mission Model air based acrylics that are getting rave reviews. But as noted in my first post, I am using Golden High Flow acrylics. I don't know what they put in the stuff, but it is splendid with an airbrush. It must have levelers and flow aids because you do not get dry-tip problems. (I hand brushed the tip periodically while mottling, but that's to get rid of accumulation of paint, not because it's drying out.) Also means it's a dream to clean – absolutely zero problem cleaning nozzles. (Like any polymer acrylic, you would not want to forget to clean an airbrush with this stuff – if it fully dried, you'd need the toughest solvents on earth to clean out the brush.) If you've ever tried Vallejo Model Air – a great paint but tricky – you know these qualities are unique in the world of water based acrylics.

 

But will the stuff paint small? High Flow out of the bottle is very thin, surprising when you think how pigment rich all Golden paints are. But lacquer thinner – great for Gunze – is worthless with water based paints in my view. All paints have one thing in common – the agent must maintain chemical coherence or the paint will break down. Lacquer thinner is a first cousin to the solvent agent in Tamiya/Gunze, so feel free to thin the stuff way down – Doog likes 80% thinner for blending, and his paints take it no problem. Golden (like Vallejo Model Color) uses a near 100% liquid polymer for its agent – think of it as a kind of liquid plastic. For thinning you can use water – but only in very small quantities. Too much water and the polymer begins to break apart – poor finish and bad airbrushing invariably results. Golden makes two thin polymer mediums for airbrush work. Normally, you'd want “airbrush medium”. It's thin and white. (Vallejo's “thinner medium” is exactly the same stuff, but probably not as good.) But Golden recommends a close relative for High Flows - “Airbrush Extender.” I'm not sure what the difference of two is. Extender is gloss, Medium is satin and Extender is a little thinner. Anyway, I was using a ratio of about 2.5-1 Extender-Paint for mottling and 4-1 for blending. Both worked very well. I used an Iwata Eclipse with a 3.5mm nozzle. I'm becoming a solid Iwata fan – it's just a great brush. In theory the brush to use was my .2mm nozzle Harder Steenbeck Evolution, but the Evo is very delicate and the needle slightly bent. Anyway, no matter how clean, it still spits just a little (hear it more than see it.) I did try it and it did work, but there was a little splatter, but you can't have much of that to wreck black basing. (When I cleaned it, the needle was covered with gray paint, so I fear either a defective nozzle or perhaps bad rings.) So the Iwata it is. Unless, that is, I can get good results from a Badger 200 single action. I was playing with it yesterday, and it actually works pretty well. What I didn't try was High Flow thinned. Who knows, it may probe ideal for either mottling or blending. (I might add if you ever want to airbrush Vallejo Model Color, Citadel Paints and I think LifeColor, get some Airbrush Medium from Golden or Liquitex. $8 buys a big bottle that will last for years.)

 

 

Now even if stuff works, I don't have the foggiest idea of what to do with a black based surface. There's still decals, weathering etc: how much I'll have to alter my stand procedures is a complete mystery.

 

 

More later.

 

Eric

 

 

 

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, June 12, 2017 10:39 PM
Well nuts! I was applying some Silly Putty to the wheel wells, wasn't thinking and pushed the wheel well right out of its glued location. I could fish it out but am going to have a hard time getting it back in correctly. Any ideas without cracking the fuselage open and possibly damaging it beyond repair? I have an idea to drill a hole in the wheel well, put something like a dental tool through the hole, fish it back through the opening, pull it up against its location and re-glue.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, June 12, 2017 10:25 PM

Greg

CMK, I have a request if you remember. Could you show how you mask those installed landing gear (and wheel wells) when it's time to paint the wings?

Wings installed.

The visible line down the center fuselage is filled with superglue and sanded.  The wing/fuselage joints are gaps that will have to be addressed.

I fixed the gaps in the ailerons by drilling the locating holes larger, so I could "push" them closer to the wings.  

I added the tail section, but forgot to take a photo of it assembled

Greg:  I'm sorry that I didn't take photos of masking the landing gear--or any of the masking.  I didn't think it would be of interest.  

I can describe what I did, if it'll help.

I started out by putting masking tape sticky side outward, inside and all around the perimeter of the landing gear well.  Then I stuffed the wheel well with wet table napkins.

I let the napkins dry out for a day, since tape is notorious for not sticking to wet things.

Then I went back and wrapped masking tape around the gear, sticky side inward--but inside the first application of masking tape, to cover it up to, over and around the wheels.  Sort of like wrapping a mummy.  

When I painted the undersides, I kept the airbrush at a low angle, so as not to direct the spray too far up the gear legs or into the wheel wells.  Since there isn't much for tape to hold onto around the inside perimeter of the well, some of the tape did pull loose, and shooting at a low angle prevented much (if any) paint from sneaking inside. At least, I couldn't spot any overspray.

I did have to go back and touch up the inside perimeter of the landing gear wells with black acrylic paint, with a brush.  I used Colourcoats black for the underside, but the acrylic black blended in fine, since there doesn't seem to be much difference between black paints.

I had to make my own masks by enlarging the painting diagram that came with the kit. Couldn't find any after-market, pre-cut masks.

The type of masking tape I used was "Duck" brand from Walmart.  Seems to have a fairly low tack.

I did finish the painting and applying a gloss coat with Humbrol gloss, but then I had to leave on vacation, and the Hampden is sitting at home waiting for me to return to it.

Again, I'm sorry now I didn't take photos, but I hope the description was somewhat helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, June 12, 2017 9:52 PM

Good looking work, tj!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, June 12, 2017 12:10 PM

Hey TJ, the Jaguar looks cool! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, June 12, 2017 11:56 AM

Justin, I was waiting to see the dullcoat on your Lancanster, and I'm certainly not disappointed. Looks great! Yes And so does the weathering.

CMK, I have a request if you remember. Could you show how you mask those installed landing gear (and wheel wells) when it's time to paint the wings?

Good to see you underway again, Johnny.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, June 12, 2017 9:03 AM

Looking forward to it TJ. I was thinking of a Jag to add to the roster and was looking at that kit, but probably won't at the moment.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, June 12, 2017 8:59 AM

Looks good there Johnny, wishing you better luck than you had with the Tornado.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Monday, June 12, 2017 8:46 AM

Got started on the Jaguar. Looks like it's going to be a nice kit 

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Monday, June 12, 2017 7:35 AM

Justinryan215

 

 
Rigidrider

Greg... lol... Harbor freight tools, 6, or maybe it was 8 for a dollar on special!  Got a bunch of them and use the soup out of them on other things too! lol...

Thanks Bud...

Doug

 

 

 

Harbor freight is great for hobby tools, and some of their other tools are good, if they are not a "use them every day" kinda tool!  I picked up one of those magnifier with alligator clip holdy thingys for 5 bucks, and a few other tools perfect for little plastic models for very few of my u.s. dollars....

 

Morning Justin.... You know, your absolutely right about Harbor Freight. They have many things, Needle files, clamps, and one of my favorites, the carbide micro drill bits, among many other things, that are perfect for working on models. The micro drill bits are fragile and care must be takek during use, but what the heck, they do break and are cheap to replace. As to their tools, Some of their hand tools are just as tough as any built, others aren't worth looking at. I needed a 1and 7/8th inch angle headed wrench once and got a whole set there up to 2inch for the price of one wrench at a tool store. That was 30 yrs ago, and I still have them.

Your Dam Buster is looking great!

Thanks, and take care!

Doug

 

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, June 12, 2017 12:26 AM

Coming along nicely there check.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, June 12, 2017 12:24 AM

Justin, really nice work on the Lanc. Great job on the weathering.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, June 11, 2017 9:49 PM

Thanks, Bish, Stick and Justin,

Justin, I thought about it but I found the 100th anniversary of the 31 squadron just too cool.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Hatboro, PA
Posted by Justinryan215 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 9:05 PM

Bossman

 

 
checkmateking02

Looking better and better, Justin.

 

 

Ditto

And nice job with those long thin-line decals on the wings !   Those are tough.

Chris

 

 

They sure are!  Made just a little easier with future as a decals setting solution. ..

"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."

Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day.  But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by Bossman on Sunday, June 11, 2017 9:03 PM

checkmateking02

Looking better and better, Justin.

Ditto

And nice job with those long thin-line decals on the wings !   Those are tough.

Chris

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:31 PM

Looking better and better, Justin.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:30 PM

Useful technique to know, Chris.  I've got lots of RAF subjects, too--including the infamous Spitfire.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:26 PM

Again just to make sure I don't miss anyone- fantastic work all around guys!!! Yes

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Hatboro, PA
Posted by Justinryan215 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:26 PM

Thanks for all the kind words guys!  This is tough with two kids....lol

 

 

I did some weathering and flat coating this evening.....

 Lancaster dambusters build by Justin Ryan, on Flickr

Here she is flat coated....

 Lancaster dambusters build by Justin Ryan, on Flickr

"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."

Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day.  But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Hatboro, PA
Posted by Justinryan215 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:23 PM

modelcrazy

I received the FLIR pods today and installed them. I'll continue on with it now that I'm done with the Kate and Thunderbolt.

 

 

That is going to look awesome!   It would have been cool if you selected a tornado from 617 squadron to build....they are the modern day equivalents to the Dambusters. ....

"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."

Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day.  But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by Bossman on Sunday, June 11, 2017 8:12 PM

Thanks Check - Wings and gear are lookin good.

And thanks Damien -

My method ?   Here ya go . . . .

The two base colors are standard MM Acrylics - right out of the bottle - but watered down a bit and brush painted.  The dark earth goes on over the whole upper surface in 2 coats in most places.  A third touch up coat was used in spots.  Then the RAF Dark Green is applied in the camo pattern.  This time it took three coats to cover with the Dark Green.  I think the sky underside was done in two coats.

I guess what I do with the panel lines is not technically a "wash".  I just paint a slightly darker color with a very fine brush and I dont worry if it gets outside the panel line.  If it does - I just wipe the excess in the direction of airflow.  Sometimes I'll add some of these darkened areas in strategically placed streaks, around the edges of raised detail, or on small access panels just to accent them slightly.

For the Dark Earth areas I use Dark Earth darkened with a bit of the RAF Dark Green.

For the Dark Green areas I just use dark green with a tad of black.

For the Sky areas I use Sky darkened with a bit of RAF interior green.

The techniques I use are best for hard-edged British (and other) camo schemes.  Maybe THAT's why I like modelling RAF subjects so much !

Chris

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, June 11, 2017 7:58 PM

Installed the landing gear

Did some test-fitting to see that everything is going to cooperate.

Nasty gaps are still there.  I'll pop out the ailerons and re-drill holes to make them fit up more snugly to the wing.

 

 

 

 

 

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