75th Anniversary of 1943 (World at War)

Griffin:  it does make you wonder sometimes why manufacturers locate the pour stubs where they do.  I haven't worked with resin figures bigger than 1/72, so I haven't seen this issue before.  Sounds like Jack has good advice.

Looking forward to seeing how you progress.  Good luck!

Jack,

It probably did, but I can't find a color pic of her deck so I go off drawings. Their probably wrong though.

Griffin, yep, those can be a real pain. But then i have had pour stubs attached to as part of the leg, trying to remove that and not lose detail can be a pain. I do the same as jack, and i also fine a small grinder attached to my miny drill helps as well.

checkmateking02

Thanks for the information, Bish.  The Hobbyworld--USA website did come up when I tried it today.  Seems they have quite a few paint lines--and new paints always interest me.

 

 

I have been looking for a new paint to replace my enamels for a while. I do like the enamels but with all the hassel of trying to do oil washes plus the amount of paint i lose with dried out tins and such, i figured it was time for a change and after seeing the results of Mr Paint, i thought i would give it a try.

Bish:  I've stuck with enamels because I've read a lot on the forums here about problems with it pulling up after masking and some difficulties spraying it.  I suppose this old dog doesn't want to learn 

As for drying out in the tins, I store paint in glass bottles, which can be bought empty from various suppliers.  You can find them in 1 oz and 1/2 oz sizes.

I've read the cautions against doing it, but I thin new paint 50-50 with lacquer thinner, then put it into a glass bottle with a couple of B-B's.  It's always ready for airbrushing then.  From time to time I add a few drops of thinner after a painting session.

Despite what I've read against storing thinned paint, only very rarely have I had a bottle of paint go bad, and I use the same system for Testors MM, Humbrol and Colorcoats.  Mostly, the paint lasts for years and years.

When I use a wash, I've been using acrylics.  That does require a gloss coat first, but that's not usually a problem, since you need a gloss coat for decals anyway.

I stuck with enamels because i have always liked how Xtracolour is pre glossed and in exact colour ranges. I have tried storing in glass jars but still have lots of paint go gooey and i end up throwing more away than i use. I have been putting off switching for ages, but this issue with oil washes on armour has been the deicding factor. I am loath to switch back to future because i find it to thick, and no matter what i have tried with the Alclad i still have problems.

I am only switching away from enamels for my German subjects, i don't do enough of the others to use up my enamels anytime soon and even my German paints will last me a couple of years at least.

Makes sense, Bish.  I bought some Xtracolour enamel before the ban on sending paint by air.  I haven't had a chance to use it yet.  I liked their selection of colo(u)rs, particularly that they offered WWI aircraft paint.  I don't think they export to the US, so probably won't be able to get anymore.

They were the first range i came across that did colours matched to different ranges. I have been useing them since the 80's, but than Hannants is almost as good as my LHS. Like you i have been reluctant to change, but sometimes you just have to.

No, you won't be able to get them shipped over yourself. And i can't see many US stores stocking them. Its a bit like Testors over here.

Got the figures together, filled gaps and primed. The strap on the MG guy needs to be extended. These figures have nice detail but I have to say they are over priced. The resin stump clean up was a pita. The fit up was a bit wonky too but I managed to suss it out. 

 

Griffen:  They look very good.  I think you were very successful overcoming the pitfalls.  Lively, action poses, too.

Bish:  Even over here, Testors seem to be cutting back.  A number of colors have been discontinued.  Of course, they eventually dropped the Floquil line after they acquired it.  I've been getting more Humbrol paints lately, and nothing surpasses Colourcoats for naval vessels.

I agree about the colourcoats, i am deffinetly keeping those. I have heard they are made in the same factory as Xtracolour and they deffinetly apply the same. They do carry a lot of none naval paints now, so they could be an option instead of Xtracolour if you wanted to go that route.

They are coming along nicely Griffin.

Bish

I agree about the colourcoats, i am deffinetly keeping those. I have heard they are made in the same factory as Xtracolour and they deffinetly apply the same. They do carry a lot of none naval paints now, so they could be an option instead of Xtracolour if you wanted to go that route.

Including   the Spitfire.

It took about 4 tries but I finally got the right Italian Grey Green uniform color mix... I think. Vallejo Air definitley does not make the color "Italian Uniform". haha. I painted the helmet, putees and the fur lined cap with different shades to add some contrast. Still got the equipment, under garments and flesh to do.

 

 

Nice results, Griffen.  The difference in shades in subtle, but noticeable; just right.

The Italian figures are coming along nicely.

I wouldn't know what to suggest from the Model Air range, but one site lists Vallejo's Olive Grey 70.888  for the European uniform colour:

http://www.artizandesigns.com/guides/ItaliansNorthAfricaWW2.pdf

regards,

Jack

Vallejo has a grey green that was pretty good. I hand painted the helmet with that. From my research I found that a little too green for the entire uniform. In some light the uniform looks more grey some more green. It is a hard color to pin down. In reality I am sure it was all over the map due to different textile manufacturers, fading, ect. Once I put some other colors on their I am hoping the uniform looks the way I would like. We'll see.

CM add me to the list with a 1/72 B-24D Minicraft.

You're added to the build roster with the B-24, Nick.  Welcome to the GB; glad to have you join in.

It's a nice kit.  I've built a couple of these over the years.  Here's an "H" model I built four years ago for the "Longest Day" GB.  I used KitsWorld decals, too.  Very pleased with them.  

Trickiest part was attaching the front part of the fuselage to the back part, and getting everything to line up.

Also, the tab on the wings is a very tight fit into the slots in the fuselage.

Looking forward to see your progress!

Will be interested to see how that comes out Nick. I need to get another 24D and would prefer the Hasegawa kit, but its very hard to get hold of and very expensive if you can. So i migt have to go for one of these.

Managed to get both half track and gun complete for painting. Added side bins, all the PE and other exteriour parts.

And the last parts of the gun were put together.

And then time for paint. As i wasn't going to mask and as i have had the past week off work, i was able to get this primed, the DY on and then the green all in one day.

I've already dry brushed, decalled and added a couple of coats of Alclad clear so its all ready for weathering, but some pic sof that next time.

Some tricky masking, Bish!

Camouflage looks good.  You're making nice progress.

CM I built this kit in 1993ish but it didnt make the move. I am working now on that alinement problem dry fitting dosent cut it lol.

Bish nice 1/2 track! I was in london in Oct for a nfl game went to see Churchill's war rooms wow.I have seen some of Churchills movies I can only imagine what it was like in there!!

Great painting Bish. Top notch 

Cheers guys.

Check, fortunatly, no masking needed on this one, other than stuff in the inside of the 251 with tissue.

Nick, i remember seeing on the news about that game. I have not been to the war rooms yet, need to get there at some point. I did go to Dover castle a few years back and the warren on tunnels behind the chalk cliffs was pretty amazing.

Working on the faces. Need a few repair paint jobs here and there too. No eyes yet. I do eyes last. A lot of people do them first but I seal the face paint with a matte lacquer then do the eyes. Any mistakes I make I can scrape off with a sharpened toothpick without damaging the under layers. 

 

Those guys are looking real good Griffin.

I am so excited to get back to the Shcarnhorst and company. Should be this week sometime. 

Thank you sir. Great to see you back bud!

Those are great looking faces, Griffin!  Nice work on them.  Very detailed.

Good to have you back around, too, Steve!