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That looks excellent Chris. I think your green came out more correct than mine is.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
The hull is painted up and ready for a satin clear and then a wash! The only thing i wish is that i could get a better contrast to show the shadows I did for the plating. It's hard to see in these pics so will try for outdoor light tomorrow when it's supposed to be sunny. The positive is that I didn't want it bold. Came out suttle without getting washed out. My dark grey is a little too dark. May try to lighten it but need to see what happens under the clear 1st. My lighter colors changed alot. Enough to make me stop spraying right away and wait till it dried lol
In the pattern: Scale Shipyard's 1/48 Balao Class Sub! leaning out the list...NOT! Ha, added to it again - Viper MkVii, 1/32 THUD & F-15J plus a weekend madness build!
I'm serious. I have a friend here that does an amazing job on oil canning the plates. I've tried his method to much failure.
modelcrazy I'm not good at that technique. I admire people who can pull it off.
I'm not good at that technique. I admire people who can pull it off.
don't be shy later...you can tell the truth when I cover up all my preshading lol
I had a copy of a hull arrangement for KGV so I used it to rough out where the plate welds were at. A few lines will need covered up i think as there are just a few errant ones in these shots. Easy to do though with this technique. Now if i can get our desktop computer fixed I can move on to the hull camo
That's going to look great Chris, especially after you put some cotton and gloss on it.
You guys may find this interesting...here's my artist's pallet at the end -
Been bouncing around a bit while i wait on different sections to dry. Put a satin coat on the deck last night so today working on the water. Here's a progression of work photos. I'll let this dry till I'm ready too place the hull. Then i can add the tissue and gel medium before doing some final dry brushing and coating with gloss Varnish.
I've never tried to mix Tamiya and Vallejo. Good to know it's posssble.
Thx ModelCrazy! im go'n for it
working on the deck now. My thought process being that it'll be easier to mask the deck while i do the hull since it's all one color. This way if any paint lifts the repairs are easier.
i also spent a bunch of time trying to improve on my last effort. on KGV the deck looked good in white grey primer, then when I did the base color and then the wash the deck gear got coated in too many coats of everything and I ended up masking the deck and priming the gear again. this is all painted with a brush. A real surprise technique came by chance. All the color variations you see are the effect of the paint starting to seperate in the mixing. When I did KGV i mixed vallejo model color with Tamiya X-20A. That works real well and fixed my paint lifting issues. I have found it doesn't work well with black or metal colors. Not sure what the link is but obviously some component of the black paint doesn't like it so in this case when i added the x-20a i could see the paint start to 'unmix' essentially. That happened in the airbrush cup but it was so small that i thought it was just that I didn't mix it well enough in the cup. Turns out it's a real thing. In the pick below you'll see those dark veins, well I'd dip the brush in those at random as well and get another color variation. Then every 10minutes or so I'd mix it up again. Another benefit is that the x-20a keeps the vallejo paint from drying!! Took me 2 hours to do the deck and the paint never dried up in the cup. And here's a few close ups I think with a wash over this it'll really pop. To the naked eye the variation really looks great. Note, it's not all dry yet so some of the brush strokes between sections will disappear once it dries completely...at least they did on my test work lol
i also spent a bunch of time trying to improve on my last effort. on KGV the deck looked good in white grey primer, then when I did the base color and then the wash the deck gear got coated in too many coats of everything and I ended up masking the deck and priming the gear again. this is all painted with a brush. A real surprise technique came by chance. All the color variations you see are the effect of the paint starting to seperate in the mixing. When I did KGV i mixed vallejo model color with Tamiya X-20A. That works real well and fixed my paint lifting issues. I have found it doesn't work well with black or metal colors. Not sure what the link is but obviously some component of the black paint doesn't like it
so in this case when i added the x-20a i could see the paint start to 'unmix' essentially. That happened in the airbrush cup but it was so small that i thought it was just that I didn't mix it well enough in the cup. Turns out it's a real thing. In the pick below you'll see those dark veins, well I'd dip the brush in those at random as well and get another color variation. Then every 10minutes or so I'd mix it up again. Another benefit is that the x-20a keeps the vallejo paint from drying!! Took me 2 hours to do the deck and the paint never dried up in the cup.
And here's a few close ups I think with a wash over this it'll really pop. To the naked eye the variation really looks great. Note, it's not all dry yet so some of the brush strokes between sections will disappear once it dries completely...at least they did on my test work lol
And here's a few close ups
I think with a wash over this it'll really pop. To the naked eye the variation really looks great. Note, it's not all dry yet so some of the brush strokes between sections will disappear once it dries completely...at least they did on my test work lol
Oh my That's a lot of work Chris! Going to look excelent my friend.
While some heavy gel dries on the base I'm doing some monotonous chain drilling ;-)
just an early pic to show what a mess it looks like. Wait till I brush a little cement over it to clean up some plastic hairs, file it down smooth, and coat it with some Mr Surfacer...sounds like a lot when you write it out haha
That's going to look awesome Chris
Ok i got POW fitted into the sea No paint yet but I think these shots will give a perspective of how the ship will roll and how the waves look made with the dryer sheet. Once I have her set in place I'll start adding gel medium to the sea to add roughness and some wave caps as well I think.
Hmm, I'm intrested to see more.
For all who may check out this thread here's some detail on the dryer sheets. MC I know you'll find it interesting :-)
what i did to start was brush on gesso on either side of a "wave". This held the flexible sheet to shape. Nce it dried the "wave" was stiff enough that I could brush gesso over it and not have it collapse.
This is the stern. I'm thinking of bunching up a piece to make the wake so it's pretty rough at the stern.
This is the side that will be on the inside of the turn so I was thinking water would be pulling against the hull more straight-away rather than off at an angle. Finally a close up at the bow. This is just 2 coats of gesso. Typically I put 10 coats on so it should look smoother
This is the side that will be on the inside of the turn so I was thinking water would be pulling against the hull more straight-away rather than off at an angle.
Finally a close up at the bow. This is just 2 coats of gesso. Typically I put 10 coats on so it should look smoother
Sorry for the delay Chris. I'm interested in the dryer sheet method.
I read an article from a guy who did the ocean surface using dryer sheets. I decided to try that and then while I was doing it it was bunching up. Hey this looks interesting what if I purposely scrunch it up so that it creates waves since I'm doing a medium see. What I've done so far is add a little bit of gesso just so that it will hold the shape. I'm gonna let that dry till tomorrow and then see if I can apply some gesso to all of the "waves" and they still hold their shape. Here's a look at it
and here's the tools I'm using. That's an acid brush it has a little bit stiffer bristle to it but still flexes so I can dimple the surface with gesso. The foam brush i used for the initial coating over the foam.you know now that I decided to do this I wasted three days putting a coat of just sew on letting it dry for a day cottage as a sand it let it dry for a day ha ha ha ha
modelcrazy Awesome Chris, this is going to be your best yet
Awesome Chris, this is going to be your best yet
well now that's a challenge! Accepted lol
KGV took gold at Regionals in the OOB category so I've my work cut out for me
Sooo, I was at the Wright Field Scale Modelers Regional this weekend... I brought King George in hopes of getting some advice from one of the judges I know. He went over it and I was excited to try out his suggestions on how to get rid of the seems from these 3 deck sections that I came home and started on Prince of Wales!
after some dry fitting I put a tab on the back of the bow and stern sections, then glued them together BEFORE placing them on the hull
Next I tacked the Deck to the hull with CA from bow to stern.
Then off to the garage to pull out my oscillating cutter. Off with the hull, well ok just back-halfed it to do waterline.
Last stiffen the hull with 3 cross braces and run a bead ment down the inside so it's all melted together and won't separate sometime later when I least appreciate it lol
Cut out the foam and have it set up with a roll to starboard and the bow digging into an oncoming wave.
As I write this the 1st coat of Gesso is drying on the foam
You got it Chris! She looks good. Ship shape in Bristol fashion as they say. She also looks like she's about to send some hurt to some Jerrys.
I'll get pic 2 up for ya mate. Thanks for jumping in here.
One of these days I'll set her sis on these here pages.
A sunny day in Cincinnati was perfect to take my ready for inspection pictures. Pipe the Admiral aboard.
My 1/350 Tamiya KGV was completed out of the box. A basecoat, oils, and Flory washes turned the plastic deck into something akin to worn and weathered wood. I used all Vallejo paints, primarily airbrushed, for the camo. Check out the close up of the big guins - I got the full 3 color camo lines on them. Hull weathering was done with oils and Flory washes. For chipping I dipped a drywall sponge into thin white paint and randomly dabbed it across the hull. Rigging is EZ Line. I chain drilled the cranes and carved out the sections between support bars to really open up the look amidships.
The ocean is Vallejo paints as well. TA base coat of Deep Sea Gray was topped off with medium and heavy acrylic gel to create the swells, wake, and waves. Then I applied a couple different lighter colors for turbulence. Several coats of gloss varnish and rayon cotton finished it off.
I have about 2 months invested to complete her including the sea.
ModelCrazy feel free to select your favorite for the front page :-)
modelcrazy I alyways work from the inside out and top down when working on rigging.
I alyways work from the inside out and top down when working on rigging.
Sage advice which I followed. Still could use some imrpovement however this one was my best rigging yet. No major glue bombs on the masts and everything stayed nearly straight even though it is still plastic.
Ask and ye shall receive
i've finished painting! The 1st coat of gloss varnish is on the water. The boats and cranes are finished up. They're just dry fit in these shots.
Now that I'm done messing around the hull I'm confident the masts can be put on. The odds are low I'll break one lol rigging and touchups while i put 6 or 7 more coats of varnish on the water
looking forward to more Chris
Thanks CapnMac, especially the extra detail about the superstructure decks ! I've wet the main deck down, left some of the hidden areas dry and as i progressed to the stern started making if more of a smooth glossy water rather than turbulent.
today i added color to the water. I’m through adding the tissue along the hull. Last, probably tomorrow, I will try to do something with the rollers out front of the bow. Each pic is another color until you get to the tissue.
I think if it's in rough enough water for a bow crash, most if not all of the lower decks will be wet, mostly from spray if nothing else. Closer to the stern may be dryer.
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