Formula One Group Build 2022 - CLOSED

Exhaust looks great, but I get lost in all the awesome plumbing!

Thanks John.  A bit sloppy in some areas but it's better than the last car model and I'm having fun.  What more can I ask for?

Wow everyone, I'm really enjoying your builds and the details you're adding. I especially like the hybrid and scratch building like those fittings, etc. Over the years I've found several details in resin, plastic, and metal for those kind of fuel and oil fittings in numerous scales. Of course the metal are the strongest and resin the least. They are out there if you want to spend the money, but I've also used nothing more than extruded plastic shaped in a 5-6 sided bolt patttern. That along with a proper size of solder can make just about any scale and quantity for little money. One thing about bending solder though is that the smaller dia. can easily change shape if you pull or push to hard.  The only challenge in the nut s for the fittings is drilling the plastic to accept the line/hose. Sometime you can add the hose to a hollow extruded brass or aluminum (easier to cut) length of tube and then glue the hexigon nut shape to the end. Speaking of easier to cut, I've also found the resin nuts and bolts available for 1/35 through 1/16 military armor a good source for these fittings. Once cut stacked and painted they look as good as anything professionally manufactured. 

For a frayed end of braided line, I normally apply a very small amount of medium CA cement to the end, wipe off all excess and roll it lightly with your fingers. Be careful to not add too much as it will show on the braided line and also make it harder to bend when it adsorbs up the braid. Also too much pressure will cause it to become pointed if your not careful.

The amount of male and female fittings are limited only by your imagination to make them. I do agree with most of you in that there is a challenge to make the fittings scale authentic, and the smaller the scale the harder it is. For instance 1/8 or 1/12 is easy while 1/24 and smaller gets harder really quick. From what I see, and I'm no expert, you all are making really nice stuff. Keep up your inspiring work and above all, have fun with it.  

As for me, thanks to everyone for your kind words, when wrestling with this build they are appreciated. Now I'm going to ask you to help me with a small part of it. 

Awesome work going on in the GB, keep the pressure on the pedal guys!

After a lengthy pit stop, the Brabham is back on the track!

I am finding the Fujimi kit has a lot of what I call "95% fit" problems.  That is, parts almost fit, but not quite.  I already know that these little fit issues will compound as more parts get layered on, so forewarned is forearmed is the MO for this build.  I am not a huge fan of lift-off cowlings, so I am leaning towards gluing all body panels on.  I don't know, I'm still on the fence about this one.  It WILL save me a lot of work on the engine if I hide everything away though.  

Oh, and I blame everyone for pressuring me into adding those darned little blue & red pipe connectors.  I cannot unsee them, so now I MUST add them as well!

Oh, and Greg had asked about the fuel line I used on the Tyrrell, so in case anyone else is wondering what to use, here it is, along with the mysterious "soda line" that I used between the front and rear oil reservoirs:

So anyone know what the deal is regarding the "soda line"?

And Greg, I have not forgotten about doing a tutorial on the springs!

I love the look of that car.  Those monster fat rear tires just scream race car..

G,

Thanks for the info on the clear brown tubing. I'm having trouble with ordering it from SpotModel, and it is out of stock at HiroBoy. Where did you get yours?

I'll be back with a proper reply to other things later.

Greg

G,

Thanks for the info on the clear brown tubing. I'm having trouble with ordering it from SpotModel, and it is out of stock at HiroBoy. Where did you get yours?

I'll be back with a proper reply to other things later.

 

Greg,

I picked it up from a vendor at a contest.  My car modeler friend said "Buy this - you will need it."

Real G

I picked it up from a vendor at a contest. My car modeler friend said "Buy this - you will need it."

Ha! Thanks!

Good to have friends like that.

Well, I haven't given any kind of update for some time. So while I can tell you it's nearly done I want to show you some photos that I took along the way.

The final step is STEP #6. While Step #5 was very basic, this step adds the rear suspension, upper and lower body, ties in the various hoses and lines adds the wheels, etc. Before I get to the pictures I want to share a couple more strange issues I found with the build process. 

STEP #6 (FINAL)



- If you remember, in Step #3 we were instructed to assemble the front suspension. Well here in Step #6 we are instructed to disassemble the wheel spindle and brass backing plate so you can screw in the tie-rod. Why would they have you assemble it in one step just to disassemble part of it in another? Why not assemble the front hubs in Step #6 and leave it at that. By following the instructions in Step #3 and adding CA cement to the parts, I was unable to disassemble it later. Why did I cement them together you ask? Based on my experience with other Revival cars, it is very common for the wheel spindle to become unscrewed when rolling spinning your wheels or rolling the car on a hard surface to demonstrate the rolling wheels. Nothing like a wheel sub assembly falling off and worse if it falls to the floor and takes off to a hard to reach location (don't ask me how I know this).

- Not too far from the first note, in Step #3 again you were instructed to assemble the rear axle components but leave them off the car. You guessed it, in Step #6 you are instructed to disassemble part of the assembly for installation through the body and then reassemble it again, why assemble it the first time? Once again foiled by CA cement as they would not come undone, so I had to modify the rear axles to finish the assembly of the car. Future builders, remember these issues and do not assembly them in Step #3.

- In the center of the Step#6 diagram they instruct you to add a screw through a tab inside the center of the body to tie the top and bottom together. Surprise!, the upper body does not have the tabs so it is impossible to perform that step.

- When adding the wheels, in order to tighten them properly you need to have a special miniature flat tip screwdriver with the center removed (it sort of looks like a miniature micro forked screwdriver. While I've assembled other Revival kits and was expecting this, so I modified one of many small screwdrivers in my stock during my first Revival builds. So if your planning on building a Revival kit, be prepared for this tool. You can also substitute a pointed set of tweezers to fit into the wheel nut notches and perform the task. I just think it is strange that they tell you that you need a speciality screwdriver that they do not provide and you have to make it (?). 

- Just a strange observation, in Step #6. In the image of the body they display the number #4. In the decals provided with the kit, they are a red number #22 set (??). The only number #4 I can find in Hans Stuk's Auto Racing history is at the 1937 Monaco GP, and it was not a dually car. I suppose Revival copied the image from the single wheel kit that is also available (?).

So, enough about the kit instructions, lets see some progress photos!

Here is the model with the front internals all added except the hoses and fittings; the front and rear suspension added through the main body; and the cockpit nearly completed (less seat and steering wheel).



If you look close you can see where the engine favors the left side of the compartment. I triple checked the rear guide pin and front mounts and they are square/centered in the frame. The engine is balanced on both sides with the same overhang. When I say favors, I mean the magnetos on each side are placed tight against the body. I'm not sure if its a mold or casting issue but it does impact the alignment of the belly pan to the main body (more on that later). 



The belly pan is attached with four screws, two in the front and two in the rear. Now if those tabs would've been present it would have been 6 screws and allow you to pull the two parts together in the center. Since they did not exist there was a gap between the body and belly pan between the wheels. In hindsight, and if your building this kit in the future, I would recommend looking to see if your kit has those tabs to screw through. If it does not I would add a plastic shim to the upper body to give it the extra 1/32 inch space to close the gap. It should be easy enough to add after you true up the body and then smooth with filler prior to prime and paint. I managed to add a very thin amount of superglue between the parts and add a clamp to apply pressure to hold them together until it cured. So far they gap is still closed (fingers crossed).  

Here's a photo of the rear section with wheels attached.



If you recall, I accidentally worked myself into an issue when adding the scratch built internal details to the body, specifically once the ribs and reinforcements were added I could not remove the internal body parts from the build. That means the dash was fixed to the cockpit prior to my paint and detailing (crap). To make it worse, I was not using the kit dash as it was incorrectly sized, leaving a 1/16 inch gap at the top and the molded in gages were totally incorrect in design and position. I tried several different methods to create and add aircraft instrument style gages but was unsuccessful. I think I could've came up with something if I had the dash out of the body, but oh well. So my dash is closer to the original but not completely authentic. 



To offset that issue I found some beautiful gage decals in my spares. In addition I also used the kit's white tach decal but painted the yellow, green, and red areas with Tamiya clear as on the real car. If your not a rivet counter it looks good enough for what can be seen. Especially after adding the steering wheel and driver.



This is where I'm going to leave it. My next update should be the completed car. Thanks for looking and please share your thoughts and opinions. Till next time live, laugh, love well, and model something.....

Ben / DRUMS01

Great progress Ben.  The detail is just outstanding.  Looking forward to the final product, though this has been fun following along.

Thanks Kevdog....

Now that the end of this build is near I begin to question how it should be displayed. Do I want to put it on a shelf and leave it? How about placing it in a plastic presentation box? Or,... what about creating main display of the car crossing the finish line in one of the many races it won through the 30's? After asking on three modeling forums it was unanimous that the third option was the most desired. 

So while I'm still resolving the decals and final details on the car I decided to come up with an idea and place it on paper, then a diorama base. If you recall, I made a team mechanic to add to the presentation beside the car. I painted him in a while set of coveralls and used the pose provided by Tamiya. To be honest, I was not satisfied with the finished product and thought he might be better utilized. Here is how he looked prior to the transformation.



Since then I changed is coveralls into a two piece pants and shirt outfit retaining a white shirt but changing the pants to a more period color. IN his unmodified stance he looks like he is telling the driver all is OK and to go out there and win. Looking at the pose I reimagined him as one of the race officials waiving a flag at the finish line. The figures pose remained unchanged, but I used a micro drill to make a hole through his clenched right hand. I then cut a hardened steel wire to an approximate 2 foot length for the flag staff. After looking through around 100 piecemeal decal sheet I could not find any kind of black and white checkered decal (that surprised me too considering the drawer and book full of decals I have kept). 

So how to make a realistic looking checkered flag, purchase it, print from on-line source, free-hand paint, etc. ? Being rather thrifty with my purchases and knowing my limitations, I chose to find an on-line source, adjust the scale and print it on top quality from my laser printer. Once it was in print it was simple to use a razor knife and straight edge to make the flag. I wanted to get photos of the newly painted figure with flag staff in hand as well as the flag, but I got carried away and finished the assembly. The inside of the flag was first coated with clear to avoid the bleeding of the ink with the CA cement. It was then folded in the middle to create both sides.One side was cemented to a flat piece of cooking foil to dry. Once dry I cut the foil surrounding the half flag and folded the other half of the flag to the other side of the foil and cemented it flush with the first half. The reason for the foil was to allow me to simulate the billowing of the flag in the wind, thus creating the rolling furls of the flag as it is being waived (the foil make the foiling shape stay in place). So, how did this all turn out? You will have to wait and see at the next update.

Using one of the wood bases I had sitting around, I applied the thoughts from my paper image to the surface using a permanent black marker. One corner will have the edge of some stones, grass, and foliage. That is where the flag man will be. To show a slight terrain variation I cut some 1/4 inch foam board for the upper left corner using a razor knife. While the display end is symmetrical with the wood display corner, the part of the foam inside the display was shaped with a jagged irregular shaped edge. I then bent the edge down toward the wood for a smoother transition. Along with the transition I also added a few dimples to part of the foam surface to simulate earthly contours instead of a glass smooth surface. The last step was to paint it a flat dark earthy green. This will be the very basic start of the display. Here is what I'm talking about:



Next for those not use to doing model landscaping was to add any major (larger) natural elements to the base. This is done now because you want the stones or even grass and bushes to look like they are part of the landscape and not hovering above it. In this next photo you can see the scale stone applied along with my first grouping of grass. It should be done in that order to allow the stone to appear as partially under the dirt and melding into the earth as if it was there for many years. You can also see the 
texturing of the wood base to accept more groundwork. 



And what material looks most realistically like dirt?, well dirt does. So I went to a couple places on my property recently and gathered various types and amounts of rock, dirt, sand, clay, etc. After sifting it through a couple of typical wire food strainers I got what I thought was scale appropriate fine dirt and rock for 1/20 scale.  

I don't have a picture of it, but the next step I did was to mask off a perceived boarder around the top of the wood with painters tape. This will give you protection on the routed edges when building up the base with various materials while simultaneously giving your display a more finished or professional appearance. The glue I'm using for the base is a very thick type of white glue often used in landscaping of model railroads. The thick glue does not spread naturally so I used an old fan brush to spread it evenly approximately 1/16 inch in depth across the desired area. While wet I began applying the sifted dirt elements to the prepared surface. This process took a couple individual layers to begin to achieve the build up effect. Warning up front, this is a messy step. 

IMPORTANT: While the white glue and dirt was setting but still plyable I removed the painters tape from the edges and then finished this level by using a soft brush on the edges to remove any roughness and keep the display edge clean. At this point here is what it looks like. There are still a couple more elements or layers as well as steps that need to be done to the display itself. Then the exposed wood will be either stained or painted (still to be determined), and the whole thing sealed. 



Next update I will show the flag bearer and the finishing steps for the base; possibly the full completion depending on the detail work and decals. Till then live, laugh, love well, and model something. 

Ben / DRUMS01

The Lotus has crossed the finish line.  It certainly won't be first among the the other builds here but I'm reasonably happy with the effort.  Studio 27 detail set, upgraded belts, added hoses, wires, etc.  MRP paints and Tamiya spray can Camel yellow for the body parts.  Criticism is certainly welcome.  Thanks for looking.  See you guys at the checkered flag.  

Fantastic Paul!  That turned out great and the colors look awesome.  I put pic #2 on the front page, let me know if you want to use a different one.  

Wpwar11,

That's beautiful!  Congratulations on crossing the finish line!  How did you do the round washer thingies on the carbon fiber nose?

No problem with the pic John.  I really enjoyed my first group build.  I would happily do another F1 or other car racing series.  I actually spent some of my afternoon researching car racing kits.  Any excuse to buy another model right?

The silver washers came with the Studio 27 set.  I also used a few other parts.  It also has seat belts but I prefer the fabric belts.  

Greg

G,

Thanks for the info on the clear brown tubing. I'm having trouble with ordering it from SpotModel, and it is out of stock at HiroBoy. Where did you get yours?

I'll be back with a proper reply to other things later.

I randomly tried to order this from SpotModel and it was listed as in Stock. I guess we will find out in 4-7 days. 

Project510

 

 

Greg

G,

Thanks for the info on the clear brown tubing. I'm having trouble with ordering it from SpotModel, and it is out of stock at HiroBoy. Where did you get yours?

I'll be back with a proper reply to other things later.

 

 

 

I randomly tried to order this from SpotModel and it was listed as in Stock. I guess we will find out in 4-7 days. 

 

Thanks for the info, James. I had looked again later at SpotModel, saw the brown tubing back in stock, and placed my first order with them. Mine shipped 9-8, let's try to remember to keep each other updated on delivery.

I recieved my first order from Spain, from Gravity Colors a few weeks ago. I was amazed how fast my paint arrived from them. Don't recall the shipping method I chose, though.

Paul, way to go on your Lotus. I like everything about it, it's a very clean build filled with so many cool details.

I'm so glad to have been able to share your first GB here with you. I still have fond memories of my first GB here. Hope we are both able to do the next one, as planned.

Ben, I almost had to laugh when you showed that you are on step 6. Your vintage racer is so full of intricate details, and complicated by design that it hit me as funny that all happened in 5 steps of directions.

Your model is going to look very good on that dio base, I think. And definitely deserving of special display.

By the way, in an earlier post you mentioned exhausts being challenging to line up in open-engine style race cars. I just discovered that last night and I'm a little scared to go try to tackle the challenge this morning! With my last Formula I style model being the big scale Tamiya Lotus 49 in the late 60's, I suppose I dealt with it before, but I don't remember.

Greg

Thanks for the info, James. I had looked again later at SpotModel, saw the brown tubing back in stock, and placed my first order with them. Mine shipped 9-8, let's try to remember to keep each other updated on delivery.

I recieved my first order from Spain, from Gravity Colors a few weeks ago. I was amazed how fast my paint arrived from them. Don't recall the shipping method I chose, though.

 

Project510

Greg, Because of the difficulty mentioned here, I ordeed 3 sets so I will have extra if any of us need it. But yea lets see what happens.

Now that's what I call planning ahead. Smart move, plus shipping from over yonder is expensive.

I finally got the rear end assy done, with my biggest hangup being what to do with the ends of the braided hoses I installed. Here's a refresher pic from a few weeks back...

As I mentioned before, no idea where the other ends would go. I don't like using another model for reference pics, but sometimes that's the best I can find. Below you can see a couple of pics from a Model Factory Hiro kit Lotus rear end I found, printed a couple 4x6's and put on the bench for guidance and incentive....

A couple pics of the finished rear end assy....

Installing the other end of the braided hose with the connectors was a different animal than the first end. Most of you following this thread have done it so you know what I mean. I was extremely happy to get those three lines attached last night. Actually tied up three loose ends, literally!!!

I switched to copper wire instead of my .035" styrene rod for attaching the quick disconnect fittings to the model for strength as I broke one of the first 3 connections at the first end. I thought the unpainted copper added some interest so I took some artistic license and didn't paint it.

Next I have to install the exhaust, and test fitting is not going so well.

Looks fantastic Greg.  Great details.  I have one failed experiment I tried with the braided fuel lines on a dragster a few years back.  Your work here is quite encouraging - I'll have to give it another go.

Thanks so much, John.

The braided line and connectors from Detail Masters was a big step for me and my confidence. If I provided some incentive to you, that's a great start to my day for sure!

My three major lessons learned with the braided wire were:

1. Paint and slide BOTH connectors onto the braided line, secure in the middle with masking tape so they don't fall off. When you get to attaching the second end, you'll be glad that connector you are trying to connect is already slid onto the braided hose!!

2. Use extremely small amounts of extra thin CA and wicking action to secure the hose to the connectors and the assy to the model. On the second connection end, I wised up and used those tiny little fuzzy ended plastic sticks to apply the CA, what a diffence it made compared to the first end, where I used too much CA.....but luckily got away with it.

3. Use something more substantial for the mounting posts than styrene rod. (you actually alluded to that a couple months ago when I scratch built a hose connector I lost from music wire. I should have paid better attention!!!!

EDIT: to all of you reading this who are old hands at plumbing engines, I beg your forgiveness. I tried something new and made it more or less work and I'm all excited. I know this is all old news to you.

SpotModel update for James:

Received my first order, placed 9-8, today (9-19). Nicely packaged, packing list double checked by a real person, with a nice welcome to SpotModel note. I'm very happy all around.

I should have ordered some cloth seat belts (for next year) as advised by Paul....I didn't think of it!!

 @Greg Excellent! Did they (Spot Model) send you a shipping update email with tracking? I have yet to receive one.

Project510

 @Greg Excellent! Did they (Spot Model) send you a shipping update email with tracking? I have yet to receive one.

 

They did not.

I paid via paypal, and got confirmation email from paypal. There was no tracking info. I can log in to Spot Model and see my order, but no tracking info.

Perhaps if I had used a different shipping method, I don't know.

Greg,

I'm pleased to have completed my F1 model.  Adding details like wire, hoses, connectors, etc. was a challenge and I'm happy it's over.  However, when I look at your work I'm excited to try it all again.  It really is very convincing.  Super job.
Good luck with the exhaust.  I always find that part of the build a little tricky.  Several pieces have to align with other assemblies that are tough to dry fit first.  I had some luck using PVA glue to hold some parts temporarily in place that may need adjusting.  Once I was happy with alignment I went back with thin CA or extra thin for a stronger bond.  

This is what I'm talking about, wpwar11's real nice looking Camel Lotus!; Greg showing his stuff on F1 detailing, keep it commin Greg!; RealG's work on the  Brabham; and everyone else representing well in this GB.

It has been a long time coming (at least for me) but the 36 Auto Union is ready for her final reveal. I could continue to drag on in every minute detail about the flag man, the base, the final details of the build, why I chose the black # 4 versus the red #22 provided in the kit, or several other last step items within the build, but I will let the images do the talking this time.

Here is how the car looked after rubber was mounted on all four corners and final details added under the front bonnet.



This gives a good view of the front suspension and grill.



Here is the view that most every other racer saw when competing against it.



In this photo you can see the determination on the drivers face, a man on a mission.



This is the flag man who was once a modern F1 team manager. I think the rather easy conversion turned out really neat.



And these are some neat photos at the family reunion, or should I say Family Auto-re-Union.





The display base after the remaining layers and redtails were added then the routed edges painted black.



And now, drum roll please, this is my completed 1/20 1936 Auto Union molded by Revival. If you have followed the whole thread you will know the amount of scratch building, modifying, and build issues associated with this kit. Because of the mixed media, fit issues, and in some cases extremely small parts, I would only recommend this kit to veteran builders experienced with older die-cast kits, that want to have a challenge. Nuff said, here it is: 











Thanks to everyone who pushed and encouraged me through this build. Also, thanks to everyone who followed and commented during the process. I believe this is going to be my last Revival build, but at least it came out some what presentable. Now I'm excited that I get to participate in one or more new Group Builds.

Ben / DRUMS01