PAGE 5--FINISHED PICS!!!--- Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone

the doog wrote:

Thanks, Steve! I appreciate your compliments! I'm not sure what I could do with the headlights beside do that "drill out and replace with lenses" look? That's off the table right now, as the build is pretty much complete. Do you have a recommendation?

Well, I would do what you did to all the other lights as they look VERY realistic...... or,

biffa wrote:

i agree about the headlights  that Steve pointed out, maybe some brighter alum paint with a dab of future (eek) to make them shine a tad?

.....or failing that ....

Let's see......    AH!.... here it is.... under the bed. Dang smileys hid it. This is my original 1968 volume 4 book of fixes......      hmmmmm... oh yes ....says it right here...

 Now this is simple but it looks complicated just because there is so much to read and I can't show you the pictures from the book. I'm flippin them for you but they just don't show the detail..... see. But, not to worry, it's plainly written right here in volume 4/page 1,396/section D/subsection X/paragraph 12/line 2...... 'bout halfway down the page.

 You can forgo the drilling with this, so, this is a rather shallow approach to attain some depth  and realism in the appearance of the headlights.

 .....this could be accomplished by takin' a short brass tube of the correct inner diameter, chuck it in a drill and use a file to produce a sharp edge....  (poor mans punch).

 After completion, get a piece of flimsy flashpack, cut two one inch squares. Now put some future on some tinfoil, shiny side up (that's brighter than paint). Place a piece of flashpack firmly on each one and give it some time to dry.

 Now, put it on a thin piece piece of rubber (keeps from dulling the sharp brass edge) and on a hard surface. Give it a light whack (and yes, use a hammer). Take a piece of rounded off sprue and gently poke it out from the hammer side. Now you have one reflective lense with a proper outer convex surface and a concave inner side for attachment with future, repeat for two.

 To finish up, put some future on the afflicted area of the kit headlight and carefully place the lens into position. Add another layer of future if you think it is needed. 

Of course, it's better to drill 'em, but in this case this will have to do.

 Now, if and when those 'lil boogers quit watchin', I'll have to find somewhere else to hide my book.

Thanks, Jeff! 

Now you have to build yours so we can do a "compare" on them! I'm really curious to see now how someone else would paint and weather one of these! 

BTW--if I had painted it pink, Jenn would have stole it for her shelf! LOL! 

Thanks for the idea for such a simple "fix" for the lights that, to be honest, I would never have thought of; I just never have done anything more than painted the lights silver. I'll dab some gloss over them and see how that brings them out a bit more.

A great point about building for yourself versus building for others' expectations! Though I can't imagine anything you've done being ripped apart here, it's a significant revelation from one whom we consider a "master modeler" around here! Thanks for the revelation--I think it makes an excellent point!

That being said, as I had stated, "Zen" is where you reach the complatin of a model and you say to yourself "That's just as I had pictured it".When you know that you accomplished exactly what you'd seen in your head. Pretty much, that's what I got here. Glad you liked it! Thanks for commenting!

Oh wow, golly gee.  I would have still liked it if it was painted pink!   Old school tank destroyer in modern times.  One of my favs!  Nice work doogy!

Thanks, zokissima--"Old school"--you got it; that's really kinda what I was going for, to be honest. A bit of drybrushing, a bit of the ol' streaking, ala' Shep Paine--I don't know why, but that's what hit me that I wanted for this build.Thanks for your comments, and for the !

It's interesting to hear the varying opinions on this one. Of course, when I look at it, I'm as pleased as I can be with it, but it's interesting to hear how it hits others. Food for thought, for when you take something to a contest to be judged--"newbies" listen up!--you never know what one individual may find fault with? Very thought-provoking!

the doog wrote:

Steve--well, thanks for the compliments, and I'm sorry to hear that you feel it lacks "WOW"! But that's ok; no offense taken; to be honest, one of the reasons I don't do much modern armor is because of the relatively understated weathering that I've come to believe looks more accuate on modern vehicles. It's hard to say "WOW!" sometimes when the model doesn't scream "ABUSE!!" You may be right about the front hull color--I may touch that up with some Tamiya OD. I think that that was actually a result of going a little too nuts with the glue. That might be a little of the bare plastic showing there..?.... However I don't plan to add any rust; I believe that Buhdeswehr crewmen would be pretty diligent about cleaning up and making neat of their vehicles. As for the dust streaks, well, they are what they are... I deliberately want to leave them kind of understated as well; if I add more color variations it's only going to emphasize them. Thanks for your imput--I respect your opinion on it; you are a true "Weatherhead"!

doog: As I expected you responsed with class....  It was tough to post a "non -sunshine club" comment but I knew you would evaluate/consider the input.  As I pondered my comments...and after reading redleg12's post..."WOW" may not be what's missing or even needed.  As I said originally, ALL the techniques are top notch, it just doesn't grab me like all your other work.  That's just me I guess...

As far as the dust streaks,"needs to be more random" might be a better critique.  They are somewhat evenly spaced and similar in length.  I think the rocking (great word for you)  and jerking motion would slosh water build-up more haphazardly(sp?) They might be more understated that way too...adding longer streaks say, near the upper rear and down the front and/or in locations in proximinty to where turret articulation would collect water...make sense?  Anyway, just some food for thought...

Just thumbed through November's FSM...LOVE that Nomad...I'm excited to read the article in detail!

I just sent you a PM too!

the doog wrote:

Tony--Thanks, friend! I just may decide to bring this to SYRCON....hmmm...?

Uhhhh Please do!!!

We all reach Valhalla through different paths. Its not the destination but the journey that counts. I may go down the semi modern strange and obuse while you are on PZ and rust but they are good journeys for each of us and both end in our personal WOW!! (wow...thats deep)

Glad to hear you are still writing. I am waiting to hear from Aaron on the Pershing article and am co-authoring an article for the AMPS Mag on "Camo and Position Improvement for Artillery Dios...WWII to Present". See what you did to me!!!!

I hear the call to prayers.....

Rounds Complete!!

Thanks, Steve! I appreciateyour compliments!

I'm not sure what I could do with the headlights beside do that "drill out and replace with lenses" look? That's off the table right now, as the build is pretty much complete. Do you have a recommendation?

TO be honest, I didn't want to go all out with AM parts on this build, but I did go for the Modelbau parts because I felt that the accuracy issues which they corrected were really important. Also, they give me an "angle" to write this into another FSM article, which I'm in the process of doing. (Aaron has already expressed interest! YAY!) But because I want towrite it up for an article, I kinda wanted to show what could be made of a substandard kit with just a little bit o' detailing. I'd like to hear of your ideas for the lights though--it never even occurred to me to monkey with them?

Hey, if I'm getting close to discovering some of your secrets, I figure I'm doing alright?! Thanks for the comments!

Mike--thanks for y0ur kind words! I'm not offended by anything said here though--Ibelieve that youachieve "Modeling Zen" when you reach the point of being satisfied with your build, and I'm pretty happy at how this came out. I realize that everyone has an "ideal" that they'd like to see, but at this point, I feel confident that I turned a less-than-spectacular kit into something pretty decent for my money....(I hope that that doesn't sound cocky? )

The next thing I "have" to do is a Jagdtiger for the SYRCON weathering demo I'll be doing. Then I'm probably going to do my Leopard 2A6. Another modern piece...probably just go OOB for that one too. I've also got a "surprise" thing I'm going to work on--something really different, unique...I can't tell!!!! ! LOL! 

Thanks again, guys! I appreciate you giving your comments and being honest with your opinions!

Karl

As far as being the supreme artist....that shows again. Nice tools, details and the mud and how it was done was very creative. I agree with some of Steve's comments and understand your comment about modern armor. Without getting into that discussion again....yes weathering is more uniformly faded, less streaks, less chips.

I disagree with the WOW. Everything does not have to be SOOOOOO weathered. The WOW now becomes more build creative in detail work, scratch parts. The WOW...IMHO....is when you look at it and you can picture it as if you were there.

Like different types of art.....there are different appreciations. You did a WOW job on the build. The painting was excellent....the weathering is a little too WWII. Well build details will catch the eye as much as weathering.

If you are building for yourself.....the only WOW is you. IF you are trying to impress the judges like a beauty (ugly) contest....well "a man has to do what a man has to do"

For you Karl, I know its for you and not the judges. We all venture into other areas at times. You hit a home run with the rust bucket. Your WWII stuff is beyound reproach.

This was not a home run but maybe a triple.....you still have a great batting average!!

Overall (for the others) the only bad build is the one you don't finish or don't try. This was more than a good build, it was great......just not the usual Doog perfect. you should aspire to master the modern like you have mastered WWII.....& rust.

Rounds Complete!!

Well doog....

here,

seems you've wandered into some of the ways I achieve things myself.

I personally don't see any fault here except for one tiny observation. That's the headlights. Compared to the superior results of the tail lights and the dual amber lens on the front, it wouldn't take much for you to bring 'em up to speed with the rest of the build. I know you could do it.

Other than that......      lookin' really good.

Thanks so much, Russ; glad you dig the mud! I have to admit that I was pleasantly surprised at how the mud came out!

Jon--thanks, buddy! Can I trade in those 10,000 Ninja points for a Super Stealthy Katana Kompressor?! Then I could model all night and not wake the neighbors! LOL!

Tony--Thanks, friend! I just may decide to bring this to SYRCON....hmmm...?

Steve--well, thanks for the compliments, and I'm sorry to hear that you feel it lacks "WOW"! But that's ok; no offense taken; to be honest, one of the reasons I don't do much modern armor is because of the relatively understated weathering that I've come to believe looks more accuate on modern vehicles. It's hard to say "WOW!" sometimes when the model doesn't scream "ABUSE!!"

You may be right about the front hull color--I may touch that up with some Tamiya OD. I think that that was actually a result of going a little too nuts with the glue. That might be a little of the bare plastic showing there..?.... However I don't plan to add any rust; I believe that Buhdeswehr crewmen would be pretty diligent about cleaning up and making neat of their vehicles. As for the dust streaks, well, they are what they are... I deliberately want to leave them kind of understated as well; if I add more color variations it's only going to emphasize them.

Thanks for your imput--I respect your opinion on it; you are a true "Weatherhead"!

Thanks again, guys!

doog: It's as hard as heck for me to say this with the tremendous amount of respect I have for your work...but something is missing on this one...it doesn't feel "the doog!" enough to me...

All the work and techniques are your usual top notch fashion, but the "WOW" factor seems to be missing.  You've set the bar so high with your other work that we've all come to expect so much.  Here's a couple of things that I noticed:

The dust streaks on the side look a bit too uniform, IMO...maybe a slight color variation would help.  The paint running down the front lower hull seems a bit too green...almost a hunter green...I know you were going for some color modulation, but it appears to strong, IMO.  You may want to add a touch or two of rust/rust streaks also...may I suggest at the exposed shovel blades for example.

Overall this is a one fine build doog...and I really like the boots prints by the way...very nice touch!  I hope my input helps.

Wow.

Karl, you truly have a gift my friend. That is awesome. And thank you SO MUCH for sharing the process. Truly wonderful stuff.

The footprints are really cool... very nice touch.

Honestly, a good bit of the reason I'm giving armor a try is your work- it just looks fun.

That one is like 100,000 Ninja Bonus points....

Thanks, acmodeler, Pvt Mutt, Bodge, and dupes! I appreciate you taking the time to comment, and thank you for the nice compliments!

Stuart--for the Oil DOt method, my recommendation is always the same--use primary colors; Blue, Red, Yellow, White, with a touch of Orange maybe--but stay away from black, browns, raw umbers--they should be used for pin washes.

The primary colors will melt together and fuse into all sort of subtle hues which simulate the spectrum of light falling on the model. It shoud work the same on any color base coat. 

DO NOT USE A "FUTURE" coat!!!!! 

"Future" makes the model surface too "slippery", and what you want is for the flat finish to "grab" the colors and "stick" the to the base. Make sur eyou use enough thinner to almost pbliterate the dots, and then dab the excess offf with a soft facial tissue--this will leave the color in irregular patterns on the base coat, and after it has dried, you can lightly scrub away any paint that looks too "heavy". 

God luck with it, and thanks for your comments and compliments!

By the way--SNOOPY ROOOOLZ!!!!

Wow...just read on how you did the mud look by spraying on the paint then wiping it off with liquid cement....

That technique alone is worth an article.

I gonna try it on my Bradely...just the look I was looking for..I hope it works... 

Snoopy says...four paws up

Great finish...I love the mud look under the hull.  Not overbearing and looks perfect.  I've always had problems getting the look just right with tracks.

This weekend I will problably put my weathering skills to work on my Bradely in European Tri-color.  I plan to follow your method (s) closely as everything you post looks really realistic to me.

What colors would you suggest for the dot weathering approach for Europe.  Currently it is Tamyia acrylic paints.  Should I future it then dot weather with oils or just apply acrylic waterbased paints over the surface before futuring.

Good stuff Doog! That was an awfully fast build for all of the extra bits and reworking you did...pretty darn nice fig for only 2 days of work as well.

Super stuff! Glad to see you doing some modern-ish builds!

A real nice job on that one Bud

You know me ,never say a lot but get my point accross.

    I knew that Froggy would work his magic.

Looking mean as a junkyard dog. Great Job my friend.

    SPGs Forever

    Tony the Mutt

It looks great, Doog! I am a little surprised about the size: I was thinking it would be much bigger, but that looks like a rather small vehicle, even more evident with the figures in it.

I think the mud technique worked well for you, it's a good result. I'm not a big fan of the streaking on the sides, but it does a nice job of making look like it's been in the field for a while, so it is fitting here. And the boot prints are a really neat detail, I may use that on one of mine in the future.

Hi Guys!

Well, here's the final update and the completion of the build! First, let me post a few preliminary weathering photos. After the last post, I gave the model a wash of Van Dyke brown. This is a slightly darker shade than the standard "Raw Umber"; really almost a "black-brown". I also took my "dust" mix, and streaked itdown the sides a bit.

Same thing with  the wheels, although on this case some carefully applied pin washes brought out the bolt and rim detail.

In this build, I altered my aproach to painting the wheels--I still paint them off-the-model, but instead of painting the whole rubber part of the wheel, I simply drybrushed a grayish-black around the edges, and slurred a thinned application of it sloppily across the wheel's rubber sections in order to get a dusty/old rubber look.

Meanwhile, while that was drying, I tooka bit of Olive Green oil paint, and mixing it with white and a touch of yellow, I applied a little of "color modulation" to the hull; basically, adding varying shades of the base coat in order to impart a richer tone to the coor. I did NOT go for the "Oil Dot Method" on this build.

Here's what you can't do when you paint tracks on the vehicle--weathering the insides of the tracks; the track along which the wheels actually travel, and the guide horns--here receiving a drybrushing of silver. 

Tools for joining the tracks: a candle, and a block of wood with a small nail stuck in it. The wood stops the transfer of heat into your fingers. 

Heat up the nail...

Press it to the pns...

..and what ya get...notice the realism of the insides of the tracks?

And gentlemen, I present to you the 1/35 Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone!!! nu nu nUUUUU!!!

I painted up the old Verlinden "NATO tank crew" (thanks, stickpusher, for the recommendation! ) and installed them in the hatches--one reason alone, IMO, to buy the Modelbau hull update, as the Revell hatches are horribly deficient in the open position.

You know, I seriously thought about adding weathering powders to the hull, but I liked the look of the "Glue Technique" so much that I didn't want to cover it up with powders. A little bit of "Old School Weathering" seemed to suffice here on the JaPaKa!

A close up of the figures--I have to say that these were the fastest figures I've ever painted--done in two days! Oh, and the periscopes were painted gloss black first, and then Model Master Gloss Green Metallic--looks the part, from when I went climbing around the Leopards at Wolfhagen...

Some tools detail--a very simple technique here. Paint with tan, wash with raw sienna oil, and then when dry, streak with a thicker slurry of the same...the metal was painted Pollly S oily black, then DB'ed with Tamiya Metallic Gray and Testor's silver, then dabbed with my "Dust" mix for continuity.

I tried something here--putting "boot prints" up to the hatches. I also added a length of the Modelbau tracks on the rear there....in tribute!

Well that's a wrap! Time to clean the desk and start writing the article! I hope you enjoyed this foray into modern armor for me, and as always, comments, questions, and criticisms are enthusiatically and gratefully welcomed! 

The doog....

terry35 wrote:

You should submit that for an article. Terry.

wbill76 (Bill)--yup; I've been using it to clean my airbrush for years now. Just keep it away from the silicon/plastic washer on the tip. I'll swab some on the tip to reduce paint build up, or to just clean it afterward, and will even stick a brushtip of it or two up the nozzle and spray it through to clean the passage. Clean ypur airbrush cups with it as well! Works like magic!

PantherF (Jeff)--COOL! Thanks for the info about the Beo....you can actually build the Beo version of this tank with the Revell kit! The chassis is exactly the same--it would be a great reference!

JMart--thanks for the compliment!  The leopard will be in a little while after this build; I have to build a Jagdtiger first for the IPMS SYRCON contest where I'll be doing a weathering tutorial on it.

great finishing technique.... looks good, great save on the tracks!

can twait for the leopard, will copy your every step on that one ;) cheers

Anyone else that is building this, Chris (toadmanstankpictures) just posted some close up's of a similar vehicle (the BeobPz) that might help.

http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/beobachtungspanzer.htm

Hey Karl, thats just superb. Another great build for the collection.

You should submit that for an article.

Terry.