PAGE 5--FINISHED PICS!!!--- Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone

lexesbenz wrote:

Gonna bring this one to Syrcon eh? Looks great!! I'm looking forward to seeing this in person. -Tony

Quite a few of them are actually models I have built for Jenn--really eclectic stuff, plus some "surprises"! 

redleg12 wrote:

the doog wrote: Mike--not too often that I get "out of WWII", but I might be for a while; I plan on a Leopard after this one! .  ....you better be looking for a "Doog" & "Jenn" figures for that Leopard. Rounds Complete!!

the doog wrote:

Mike--not too often that I get "out of WWII", but I might be for a while; I plan on a Leopard after this one!

We interrupt this WIP for an improtant message.... 

OK...so just a quick note....you better be looking for a "Doog" & "Jenn" figures for that Leopard. If not, we the masses may protest that build. Manny...if you have any ideas, let him know...

We now rejoin this WIP....

Rounds Complete!!

Gonna bring this one to Syrcon eh? Looks great!! I'm looking forward to seeing this in person.

-Tony

Manny, Mike, and Buddho--Thanks for weighing in and for your comments!

MAnny, I know what you mean about the decals "sticking" to the brush, but I've found that they tend to do that only if you wait too long to seat them, and if you don't wet the brush with water to dilute some of the decal setting liquid. 

Mike--not too often that I get "out of WWII", but I might be for a while; I plan on a Leopard after this one!

jwb---nice to see you around here so often, Jon! Glad to have imparted something useful to ya!

stick man--thanks for your comments and compliments! 

I think the difference between what you're talking about there is that in this case, I've actually dissolved the paint and smeared the paint, so I don't think that it will "clean up" any time soon; besides, I've since added some layers of oil shading to the parts where I used it.

Thanks guys! 'Nother update very soon!!!

WoW Doog! I realy like how this build is turning out it's superbe!

But one thing about your new tequnique... I've used Testors cement (the stuff that comes from the red tube) to make oil stains on veicalys and to make gasy efects on gas caps but I noticed that after my model had been siting for a couple of moths the glue dried out and I lost the efect. But I was'nt useing the same glue as you so hopefully nothing will happen to yours.

Great job!

Looookingggggg Gooooood. I wonder what the base of the Testors is as opposed to some of the other liquid cements. Most of those a chlorinated solvent based (as a chemical engineer....I'll go no further).

Will have to pick up some Testors, just for this if nothing else. The only other thought is grit. If there was a way to put some fine grit into the paint....it would raise those areas slightly and give a little "chunk" to it. Metal blasting grit might work, but I would used an airbrush with a wider opening.

Just some thoughts for future experiments. I'll keep an eye for where to get small quantities of blasting grit....could be and interesting experiment for the spray booth cow!!

I love that you left WWII for a while....even if it is German

Nice idea....looks great.

Rounds Complete!!

Wow...nice save on the tracks---improvise, improvise, improvise !!!  Cool stuff...you'll be able to later say: "See all those guide horns? I scratched 'em...".  Round guide horns?---weird...but cool. 

In regards to your decal method...I apply most decals in a very similar fashion except I don't flatten the wrinkled decal out with a brush---as it drys it naturally will flatten out...in fact, a big mistake many make is messing w/ the decal while it is still in its softened/wet state and end up tearing it...but it seems to work for you and you can't argue w/ results! 

Panther F wrote:

Where is that picture/plate/drawing/painting of the Jagdpanzer from?

You might be able to find it on Amazon, or Half.com?

AAAAAAhhhhhhhhh SSSSSoooooooooo

......Tony......

Pvt Mutt wrote:

Hey Doog:  Did the cement cut through to the gloss coat or just the acrylic mud?                         From the pictures it looks like oil has leaked out all over everything but being new at all these painting techiques I really don't know how it should look. I'm from Missouri and you'll just have to show me.I'm sure when you've got all the weathering done it will have a completely different look to it. Do your magic Froggy,i'm watching.     ....Tony the Mutt....

Thanks for commenting! You too, Jeff!!

    Hey Doog:  Did the cement cut through to the gloss coat or just the acrylic mud?                         From the pictures it looks like oil has leaked out all over everything but being new at all these painting techiques I really don't know how it should look. I'm from Missouri and you'll just have to show me.I'm sure when you've got all the weathering done it will have a completely different look to it. Do your magic Froggy,i'm watching.

    ....Tony the Mutt.... 

Hi again!

Here's the Friday, Sept 19th update! (WOW! Is it that late in the year already?! )

I applied a simple black/Van Dyke Brown oil wash to the model. It has toned down the paint scheme somewhat:

The tracks have been finished; they look like some "Giant Squid" tentacles! LOL!

Now, I asked myself, "Hmmm...how to weather this modern vehicle?" I didn't have the "luxury" of having the "comfort zone" of Dark Yellow, and I didn't want to just work within the pardaigms of what I normally use for weathering on German WWII vehicles. I also don't want to "overdo it".

Looking at the reference photos of Bundewehr vehicles in this color scheme, I was struck by the fact that they always seem to be covered with dried mud on the lower hull. To simulate this, I mixed up some Tamiya Dark Yellow, White, a touch of Black, Gray, and a speck of Red Brown til it looked right, and gave the hull and wheels/tracks a liberal covering of it....

Now I was left with trying to get the look of where the vehicle had brapped through wet areas or encountered mud. How would I get the look of the mud being washed away in select areas? I know that standard technique says to use base coior, and streak that on...hmmm....could there be a better way? A more "literal" way?

I thoght about how I use Testor's Liquid cement to clean my airbrush parts--it completely strips away acrylic residue in seconds. Why couldn't it work to strip away some paint in a weathering process?

So I went in with the brush. I would simply dip in the brush, dab the excess off on a paper towel, and attack the paint. Working quickly, I would pull it down, clean it quickly by dabbing it off on the paper towel, and re-wetting/dabbing/attacking again... Here's the technique "in action"...

The wheels got the same treatment...

....and here's where I am so far...

All, in all, what do you guys think? Too much? Just right? I'm pretty relieved tha it seems to have NOT really ruined the look of the base coat, and has achieved the look I was after. What do you think?

Comments welcomed!!!

wing_nut wrote:

Just caught up onthis thread.   Way cool paint job.  And the little circles.... I started to get a little queasy just thinking about that.  I hope you didn't have a nightmare after that of you running along the top of a giant tube and a massive shuny blade chopping just behind you as you ran

Thanks too, doc! I'm keeping an eye out of my door for the van to pull up soon!

UPDATE COMING IN ABOUT 10 MINUTES!!!!

  doog! This is one brave and outrageous build, your paint/finish is superb! Those guidehorns are genius, have the whitejackets showed up at your door yet? LOL I am impressed!!!

Thanks, moose!

Update coming soon!!

hey doog still watching your build.  Love your paint job.  Looking forward to the weathering that you will accomplish.  WOW on the tracks.  Those would drove me to making the vehicle a bench queen.  Cutting 180 pieces, matching no less is way beyond my paitence level.  and desire.  But your save over the resin tracks is amazing.

Keep up the awsome work.

Mike, Erik, Ron--thanks for looking in and commenting, guys!

Jenn helped me out taking some pictures there, Mike; she's a great little helper. In return, I help her sort the colors of the threads in the bundles that come with her Cross-stitch kits that she likes to do!

I'm strating in on the weathering now; should have an update in a day or two.

And I thought I was anal....do you also like knitting!!!.....nice save....sometimes when the going gets tough....the tough cut little circles

On the decals I do the same, but sometimes have the old big hands problem with the eyes arent what they were problem....thanks for showing everyone.

Now....with both hands on the decal....who is taking the picture....or are you that good!!!

Nice details. Detailing always requires improvisation. That's the fun part

Rounds Complete!!

wbill76 wrote:

I recall someone, who shall remain nameless, implying I'd lost some sanity along the way for hand-drilling out guidehorn teeth on a Pz III build a while back... Nice save on the tracks Doog, they will look the part for sure once mounted. I wondered about how the fit around the sprockets was going to go if there wasn't any way to connect them up, at least temporarily, until the glue set...I guess that one will remain a head-scratcher.

LOL!

I actually did get a run around a sprocket, and glued it carefully so as to try to not connect it to the plastic, but it was murder to pry it out of the teeth, and I just couldn't see it matching up correctly if I didn't sit the teeth exactly as before when testing the fit of the subsequent links/section. As you know, a matter of a simple millimeter's difference would have given me the dreaded "gap", and I just didn't want to risk that!

wbill76 wrote:

I recall someone, who shall remain nameless, implying I'd lost some sanity along the way for hand-drilling out guidehorn teeth on a Pz III build a while back... Nice save on the tracks Doog, they will look the part for sure once mounted. I wondered about how the fit around the sprockets was going to go if there wasn't any way to connect them up, at least temporarily, until the glue set...I guess that one will remain a head-scratcher.

I never did imply you were insane Bill, just thought it was a hardcore on your part.    But, after watching all of your builds over the years I shouldn't have let it surprise me.  You always go the extra mile.

Thanks, guys! I have to say that the resin track problem almost caused me to put this kit aside--for about half a minute. I've wanted tgis kit for so long though, that I'm thrilled that I've figured a way to slavage the tracks in a way that at least looks accurate. Luckily, they are nearly identical on the outsides, having big square track shoes, and being of identical width.

RRbaer, MECHTECH, and panzerguy--thanks for the kind compliments! I'm glad to hear that the improvised fix on the tracks seems to have met with approval!

ted nichols--wow, I never thought of trying that with a hair dryer! I might have tried it too, were it not for discovering that the spacing of the links around the sprockets might be a real problem; this was one issue I was having with trying to make them fit. But I will keep that in mind if I ever attempt a second pair!

Panther F--thanks, Jeff!; great call on the mirrors! I agree; they do look better than the huge kit mirrors!A good call on the semogloss coat as well!

dupes--I actually do trim my decals down as close to the decal as I can. I just forgot to report that...however, the way I do the decals, I very rarely ever see any silvering. As you know, I don't like to use sealants or gloss coats underneath. I only ever sometimes have a problem with really old, thick decals--but then, I WILL use a "spot" gloss coat to be safe.

jwb--You know, I actually thought about sticking every single link to a piece of scrap with tape somehow, and painting every single link and then weathering every single link so that I could then just assemble them without having to worry about removing them...and then I actually did hit myself in the head with a large hammer and say "Snap out of it man!!" LOL! I would have used the un-modified kit tracks before doing that! 

I agree that it might have been possible to do it in short link sections, but like I said--the real problem was going around the sprockets; also, I have seen tracks done in that menner---the "short link" section--and somehow they look a little "cobbled together", where the links sometimes on't mate imperceptibly. Some 1/72 tracks go together like that, and they're tough to make them look contiguous.

Thanks all for commenting!! I do appreciate you all taking the time!