Russian Armour Green WW2

Use their standard "J.A. Green"--it's a really dark "Dark Green". Lighten with Buff for highlights.

I use almost exclusively Tamiya paints with Armor builds, They rock!

I also am cutting my teeth on russian armor, and would like to do some early cold war stuff (IS-3, T-55, BMP-1) as well as WWII.  Did Russian "army green" change much from say 1943-44 to the 1950's or even 60's?  Many reference photos I have seen show alot of difference in tone, but that is likely due to photo quality, not actual paint color.

Any help, greatly appreciated!

Chris

Kelly_Zak wrote:

Hi all, quick question, after doing so many German stuff I am presently working on a T34/85..thing is, it's my first Russian piece! LOL Trying to find a decent shade of paint to use for the basecoat, any suggestions? Keeping in mind I only really have access to Tamiya paint...any type of mixture?   cheers!!  Kelly

If you don't want all the work with mixing paints, go with ModelMaster Russian Armor Green Acrylic. Yeah, I know it's not Tamiya, but it's not that hard to find.

I really want to stick to Tamiya paints, and don't mind mixing if someone has a good, reasonably accurate formula for russian armor green.

Tamiya just sprays so well, and dries quickly, I am hooked!

Chris

T26E4 wrote:

I'm admittedly a Soviet green novice.  My only tidbit is I recall S Zaloga's mention that the bright forest green shade that some modellers seem to use as their Soviet green is definitely a no-no.

Is this some kind of "fad" now, or just bad research? Or just "trying to be different"?!

I haven't seen it much here, but on other sites... SHEESH! It's like "sassafras green"! LOL!

Russian armor paint was reported to be highly inconsistent in color and tone, and from what I've learned, you can use just about any dark or dull green, but stay away from olive or bright greens. Generally, I pretty much stick with a black-green, with highights.

Then again....judge for yourself?

  Right out of the factory I don't think the light green looks right either but, it might be a future result........ considering the following.

  Just remember, (whatever green you use ) weathering will alter the final color. The paint can be faded or tainted from the whitewash applied from any winter configuration. In other words, a faded look could also be left over residue from a winter whitewash or a heavy accumulation of dust in combination with the bleaching effects of the sun. Some tanks didn't last a day and yet there were those that were repeatedly repaired and put back into action.

  Also, WWII russian paint wasn't too tight on quality control. A tank painted at one factory could be a different shade or hue from a vehicle produced at a different plant. Also, (mentioned above) consider a machine damaged in action and repaired/painted at depot or rear echelon level; or even painted at all considering the imminent situation, again, an opportunity for a different variation in color.

  Armor desperately needed to stop the enemy doesn't need paint to be a beauty to their desperate comrades fighting for their lives. An example of extreme need would be at Stalingrad. The T-34s were coming out of the factory with a crew at the door and headed straight into battle in primer red and in some cases no paint at all.

  Any russian WWII armor that I would build would incorporate these conclusions; for as you all know, I just won't build a pretty tank.

I use a rattle-can of Model Master Dark Green (Color # 1910/FS 34079) for Russin armor... For me, I see no point in airbrushing a mono-colored vehicle when I got a perfectly good color in a spray can... In fact, about everything gets it's primary overall color from a can unless there's no acceptable color that's in one (haven't had that happen yet in 40 years).. My personal weathering process (short version) is to start with everything painted "factory-new", chip some paint , and then apply the washes and dry-brushing for shadows and highlights, then fade with the airbrush...  

I like Tamiya's airbrushing qualities too, though.. Damned-sure can't brush-paint much with 'em, lol...

Anyway, the MM Dark Green, whether it's "correct" or not, looks "right" to me...  With a squirt of gloss over it, I think it even matches that gloss dark green used on Ivan's toy soldier, errr... Taman Guards parade vehicles...

"I gotta add here, too--what is up with that light grass-green that some modelers use on their German armor??!! 

Is this some kind of "fad" now, or just bad research? Or just "trying to be different"?!

I haven't seen it much here, but on other sites...SHEESH! It's like "sassafras green"! LOL!"

I believe that is exactly what it is--a fad.  Just like there was the tendancy a few years ago to depict Panzer Grey in a very bluish hue...now, the trend is to go with a much "warmer" Panzer Grey, which is more historically accurate...these things (like clothes fashion) tend to swing back and forth...

I must admit that some of the lighter greens do make for some attractive schemes, and I think that modelers feel they have more leeway with green shades on Russian armor because of the myths surrounding the lack of any discipline when it came to the Russians and quality control...you almost never see anyone monkeying around with US olive-drab...I don't have too much of a problem with it since I feel it falls under the "artistic license" category...

I tend to vary my Russian armor from a medium to a dark green...just painted a 76.2mm field-gun for my current dio in a medium green and like to way the color "pops"...  

How different would the green have been that was used of the aircraft "tractor scheme".  Green from he tractor factory and black in a disputative pattern.  MM makes an enamel color called, I think, Russian Topside Green.

In a similar discussion in another forum it was suggested, and agreed with many times, that medium green fs 34102 is good to use also.

My preference is Vallejo Russian Green which can be faded out or shade adjusted using differing mixes of base colour and yellow green etc.

Cheers

Mike