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DML Bison II Complete 04-28-12

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco, CA
Posted by telsono on Monday, April 23, 2012 1:16 PM

Bill -awesome work as usual. One question with the Jerry cans, no fuel, all water? My understanding was that the white cross was for designating cans carrying potable (drinking) water so they wouldn't have contamination from fuel residue.

Mike T.

Beware the hobby that eats.  - Ben Franklin

Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Ben Franklin

The U.S. Constitution  doesn't guarantee happiness, only the pursuit of it. You have to catch up with it yourself. - Ben Franklin

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Monday, April 23, 2012 12:32 PM

Yum yum. Eats

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, April 23, 2012 12:07 PM

Thanks Mike! Now it's time to put some dust on the boots to show they've been out on the ground! Wink

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, April 22, 2012 9:13 PM

Nothing like a good spit shine on the boots!!. Looking good, can't wait to see the pigments....your in the clubhouse turn headed for home

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, April 22, 2012 7:33 PM

Sorry tread, didn't mean to do a track "tease"! I was tempted to tackle the pigments today but the day was getting on towards the late afternoon and I always underestimate the time required so figured it was best to play it safe and hold off until next time. Fingers are crossed that next weekend's session will see this one across the finish line!

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Sunday, April 22, 2012 6:49 PM

Man I was reading your post again and I got to the part where the tracks are kinda rolled and I said ' yeah '........ gonna see 'em on tonight.......take your time Bill... I'll be here.... waitin'...... LOL

treadCool

 

   

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, April 22, 2012 3:46 PM

Work continued with the focus on getting the tracks completed and ready for installation. First up was an airbrush application of MM enamel Burnt Umber to provide the base color tone. I used long strips of masking tape to hold the track runs during painting and made multiple passes to ensure all the nooks and crannies received paint.

The Burnt Umber base is a nice dark brown color and to create a metallic look, I dry-brushed MM enamel Steel with a round 000 brush. Heavier dry-brushing was applied to the contact surfaces like the inner guide horns that would be in constant contact with either the sprocket or idler. For the exterior surfaces, the focus was put on the track face contact areas. 

After the dry-brushing was complete, I applied a wash of 90/10 thinner/MM Raw Umber enamel to blend the Steel back in to the overall finish while still preserving the wear/shine in the desired areas.

The tracks are now ready for the pigment weathering along with the vehicle itself. I applied a sealing coat of MM Lusterless Flat in the spray can to remove any remaining gloss from the Future coats and to seal in the filtering weathering applied earlier. The Lusterless Flat has the added bonus of providing some "tooth" to the finish which will make it easier to apply and manipulate the pigments in the next stage.

The pigment weathering will come next and should be the last stage before this one gets across the finish line.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, April 19, 2012 12:23 PM

Thanks Tony! Glad you like the collection. The DML kit has it's issues (see the build log I have for the same kit if you want a peak into some things to avoid) but still builds up nicely. Don't fear open top vehicles, they just present more opportunities for detailing and weathering! Wink

DM, glad to be of assistance!

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:45 PM

Thanks Bill.

I knew it wouldn't work with turpenoid so it got me to wondering what kind ofhttp://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6YdUEyjqkE1nTicENdDv3QKUiiUGwYEs9EBobO-MqhuS6f43Fb7X5 magic potion you were using.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Uppsala, Sweden
Posted by bultenibo on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:09 PM

Bill!

I've just checked out your site, and that is one impressive collection of German armor you got there! YesYesYes 

I especially liked the Leningrad Pz III (it was oozing cold) and the cut-through 38(t). The Dicker Max was also beautiful. I got the DML kit as a present from my collegues when I took my Phd exam a couple of years ago, but I haven't dared to begin building it. It seems that I'm a bit scared of tanks with open fighting compartments, and I don't want to mess up the present. Sad

/Tony

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:55 PM

Thanks Herc! The only thing to keep in mind with using enamels instead of oils is that you must work in small sections at a time to prevent the enamel dots from having a chance to dry. Wink

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:48 AM

Looking good. I have never thought about using enamels for the dot filter. I always use oils...great tip!


13151015

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:56 AM

Thanks Steve and a good question...I never thought to specify the type of thinner I use. It's the standard "red can" Testors Universal Enamel Thinner. Appreciate the comments and support as always! Beer

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:50 PM

wbill76

"First up was the application of an overall wash of 90/10 thinner/MM Raw Umber".

I'm in the dark here http://www.sellerforum.de/download/file.php?avatar=354_1204841142.gif........ hmmmmm?

  Often wondered. What kind of thinner'ya using with those 'namels?

 Turpenoid (my poison of choice), white spirits, MM brand thinner or other?

 I'm might try this one on some day.

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss87/instantes1/gif/m1/msn/msn2/ico560.gifYeah, I'm being sneaky - but not to worry. 

https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT1DB8WaEPh78Az3Tb1JnzwekvIo2M3Y_3m-vfjFxV35Zno5lPxnGVMbgI'ma following along in admiration Bill.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:26 PM

Thanks Mike! Have to agree...when you've got a wide canvas, it always helps! Wink

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:49 PM

Looking very nice......dots are always fun when you have lots of panels!!!

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:26 PM

thanks plasticjunkie! The weathering stage is one of the ones I love and hate in equal measure...love because of the effects it produces and the fact that the finish line is close but hate because of the time required to get it done! Wink

Carl, thanks as well. Future is wonderful stuff...and to think people use it as a floor polish! Propeller

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Monday, April 16, 2012 9:23 PM

Looks great Bill .I also use MM enamels for 90 % of painting needs . The Future is a good idea .Yes

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, April 16, 2012 7:49 PM

Outstanding work as usual! Love the weathering stage!Yes

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, April 16, 2012 7:35 PM

Tony,

No plans for figures...I don't typically put my finished models on bases or in dios so figures are usually not part of the equation. Keep practicing on the dot filtering...it's a very versatile technique to have in the arsenal for sure! Thanks for the comments. Beer

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Uppsala, Sweden
Posted by bultenibo on Monday, April 16, 2012 8:08 AM

Looks great Bill!!!

I'm really impressed by tyour subtle dot filtering. I havn't learned to "control" the paint that good yet. Need some practice, I guess.

Have you any plans to add a figure or two?

 

/Tony

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:02 PM

Thanks Andy! Classes start up again on Thursday so I have to hit the books once again starting tomorrow. My 6 weeks of blissful free time are at an end. Propeller

Rob, thanks for the comments as well. The dot filter method (if you're doing it over enamels) absolutely must have the Future coat to avoid disaster. The key to the Future application is spray it on as a light mist coat from a distance and do multiple passes...that way it won't build up heavy/thick but still gets in all the little tight places you need it to go. Give it a whirl, I think you'll be happy with it! Appreciate the encouragement as always. Beer

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by PANZERWAFFE on Sunday, April 15, 2012 7:51 PM

Excellent beginnings on the weathering Yes Have always liked that overall faded look you get with the dot filtering.  It really ties things together and also really blends the decal / markings into the build making everything look more natural.  My next build I am going to try your approach being that we both always use the same paints.  I just have still not been able to talk myself into spraying my whole build with Future but I will on my next build.  Your Bison is coming along just beautifully and I cant wait until the next update Yes

Rob

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:22 PM

Always looking great especially when you use your family recipe! Wink  You are almost there.  Good luck with rest of your MBA study! Yes 

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, April 15, 2012 5:07 PM

Made some good progress with the Bison II this weekend, enough to justify an update at any rate!

The weathering process is always one that tends to go a bit slower, mostly because the stages require a good amount of time to complete and layer properly. First up was the application of an overall wash of 90/10 thinner/MM Raw Umber. This provides some "grime" to work with in the next step of the weathering process.

Once that was on, the next step was the application of some dot filters to fade the paint work and add a "dusty" look to the finish since this is a desert theater vehicle. I chose MM enamel Light Gray, Armor Sand, and Raw Sienna for the dots. Working in small sections at a time, small dots are applied and then blended together with a square tipped blender brush lightly dampened with clean thinner until the desired result is achieved. I wear a paint breather mask throughout this process due to the thinner fumes involved.

This shot of the glacis gives you a kind of before/after look...the area on the right has already been filtered while the area on the left has the dots applied but not yet blended together.

After a few hours of patient work, the result is achieved.

In order to bring out some of the detail and provide some depth to the finish, the next step involves applying a pin wash of 90/10 thinner/MM Burnt Umber with a 10/0 pointed brush.

The wash will "bloom" a bit in places, so after hitting all the areas, I came back with the same 10/0 brush and clean thinner and removed/adjusted the excess wash where needed.

Will let that sit overnight and take a look at it again with fresh eyes to see if any more adjustments are needed before sealing it up in preparation for the pigment treatment.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, April 13, 2012 7:03 PM

Thanks Terry! The MBA classes start up again for me next Thursday and don't stop until March 2013 so this weekend needs a big push to keep this one moving. Expect to have an update on Sunday if things cooperate this weekend. Wink

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Friday, April 13, 2012 6:25 PM

The model is really coming to life now Bill,  it's been a long journey but the finish line is definitely close.

Regards,

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, April 13, 2012 9:52 AM

Thanks Steve, appreciate the comments. Different builders handle tools in a variety of ways, that's the beauty of the hobby, there's no "one true way" of doing things. For example there are some who prefer to attach the tracks and paint and weather them integrated with the suspension and produce beautiful results in the proces...something I've not been able to do myself and had to come up with a different approach that worked for me. To each his own, if you find something works for you go for it! Wink

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Friday, April 13, 2012 9:17 AM

Bill:  I just spent a while following how you built this one...thanks for the step-by-step descriptions and such pleasant photography.   It was a nice refresher course!

I don't know why but for some reason I have it stuck in my mind that tools and accessories should be added as part of the build process versus painting them separately and then gluing them on like you do.  I really like your techniqueYes...the tools look fantastic!

Great subject Bill and I love the camo'...superb interior work too!

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: GERMANY
Posted by Melchior on Thursday, April 12, 2012 3:42 PM

For those who know me ... I'm still here.

However concerning "svastika" or better said "Hakenkreuz" for German and "Hakaristi" for Finish AFV of WW II.

The use of such symbols isn't forbidden by law and order for whole Europe. It's strictly forbidden to be shown (except originals in museums) and printed in Germany, i.e. laid down in law: §§ 86 and 86a StGB. Therefore no decal, no box' cover are allowed to show this. By the way same procedures for the typical sign of "SS" as named "Sigrune" or "Doppelsigrune" (=twice S) .

Therefore producers of kits have to decide on how they would managed ist. As seen here at the Bison it isn't a total svastika and therefore not forbidden to show. But if you will complete it and you're living in Germany you aren't allowed to show it to other persons - even within your own house or appartment. Sorry, it is so even if my German fellows won't believe it. It isn't forbidden to have those decals for your own, but showing or presenting is a "no go" !

Big problem for importersalso. The customs office will reject all items, send back when and whereever they will find it.

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