Tamiya Pz IV Ausf. D - FINALLY COMPLETE!

Hey I'm finally back with another update!  I had to slow things down because I'm back to working 6 days a week, 10-12 hrs a day .  Though slow, progress was made on the kit over the last two weeks, focusing solely on the tracks:

As I mentioned earlier, the kit's vinyl tracks are inappropriate for an Ausf.D.  These represent the 40cm wide tracks with the sold guide horn and chevron pattern ice cleats that weren't used until the Ausf.H, mid to late production IIRC.  It makes sense why Tamiya did this as their old Ausf.H has the same tracks.  The Ausf.D tracks should actually be 36cm wide with hollow guide horns and smooth track faces.

Digging around my stash I found some old Model Kasten indy links that I thought might work as a replacement.  Here's a comparison photo of the kit tracks and the sprue with various Pz. III/IV track links.  Included are the same mid/late Ausf. H links, Ausf, H early 40cm links without the ice cleats and 36cm links that are correct for Ausf.Ds.

But the kit sprockets will not work for the 36cm links as the sprockets are waaay too wide!  Scrounging around a Dragon Ausf.D Vorpanzer kit I found that it has an extra set of sprockets (??) so I put one together and compared it to the kit sprocket....big difference!

Checked the Dragon sprocket with the MK 36cm links:

Looks like I had a winner!!   UNTIL......I counted the MK 36cm links and realized that there are only about 100 links included with the set!!  HUH??  Pz IVs usually had 90-100 links PER SIDE!!  DOH!!   So the MK links were ruled out along with the Dragon sprocket!

Back to square one!  I decided to take a look at that entire set of leftover Dragon Ausf.G Magic Tracks that I used a few for the spares; there are easily enough links for both sides.  Here's a look at the links (taped to a piece of wood) compared to the kit tracks:

They're the same width as the kit tracks, but the holes for the sprocket teeth look too small...I'll probably have to modify the sprocket a bit.  They have the hollow guide horns, which are a plus.  And the raised cleat can be sanded down to make it look more like the 36cm links!  OK, NOT perfect, but I think they'll work pretty good in improving the look of the kit. 

First step:  Sanding down the raised cleats.  To do this I laid some double sided tape onto a wood jig I used for T-34 tracks and arranged 10-12 links cleat side up and used a medium grit sanding stick to sand down the cleats.

And after they're done, cleaned up and compared to a MK 36cm link.

Here's the modification I had to make on the kit sprockets.  I had to thin out about 10 rows of teeth so that the Dragon Links would fit.

A few links dryfitted onto the modified sprocket and compared to the vinyl tracks.  I think its a big improvement!  Not only will the track faces look more appropriate, they hollow guide horns are more accurate and I can put some sag on the track runs which I would have a hard time doing with the vinyl tracks!

With my limited bench time, modifying 200 links and the sprockets took an entire week.  When ready I used the "doog method" of installing the indy links.  For each run I layed down 102 links onto a stretch of double sided tape with a metal ruler to keep the run straight.  Then I brushed on Testors liquid cement for the entire run, let it sit for an hour and then gently removed the track run from the tape and wrapped the still pliant track run around the suspension.  Balls of tissue paper held the upper run in place and helped form the sag. 

Here's how she looks now with the tracks finally done and installed (to be removed before painting)

Yeehaw!  Assembly done and now on to the paint booth!

Russ, Bill, thanks for stopping by!  For an old kit, this one has been quite enjoyable!

BTW, more spares bin scrounging coming up!!

Very nice work on the tools and spares bin scrounging Ernest! It's one of the reasons I don't throw out left-over parts, never know when they might come in handy.

I really like this one, superb modeling!

Karl,  Yep, we've definitely been bitten by the detailing bug!!   Its a nasty virus that can turn a 3 day OOB build into a 6 week quest for perfection!!    I"ve got it bad!!

Yo dupes!!  Nice to hear from you buddy, thanks for stopping in for a look!  I"m still lovin that Panther Flakvierling you built for Eric's Steel Cats GB!   OOB....yep, that was wishful thinking!   I'm having a good time with the kit though, so its all good!  BTW, what projects have you been working on lately?  Planning on joining any of the upcoming GBs?

Ernest!!!

Hate to tell you, man...but this thing left "OOB" status a loooooong time ago. ;)

Looks great!

bufflehead

*sigh*  What can I say...despite my intentions for a quick, simple build, I keep hearing voices in my head saying, "Improve it, improve it!"

 

Yup--I know THAT feeling!

You're doing a fine job here, Ernst! Those tools and the screw details look perfect. And I have to say, that's a GORGEOUS cable! I'm shamelessly going to steal your idea!!!

Jack, Phil, Bill, thanks for the kind words!   Its much appreciated!

Moving along guys, its TOOL TIME!

But the kit tools are pretty lame!  The detail is soft, some tools are downright overly simplistic and the jack has sink marks that will be tough to remove:

Tamiya to the rescue with their nice Panzer IV Tool Set!  I've had these for years and it was time to use them.  However some parts like the fire extinguisher and wrenches are too big to fit on the fenders properly so I used spares from Dragon Pz. IV kits.

I lost the handle for the jack so I scratchbuilt a new one.  The kit tow mounts aren't totally accurate, but they assembled pretty well and look decent so I kept them.  The kit only includes 4 of the lifting hooks which were used on the turret and I need two more for the hull.  The only spares I had that are a close match are some resin ones....not sure where they came from!

The kit's fold down step and track tool are way too thick so I simply sanded them to a more scale thickness.

As I was looking for the kit's tow cable, I remembered that years ago I stole the tow cable ends for that old Pz. III kit that Phil mentioned earlier!  No probs.....that Tamiya Pz. IV Tool Set includes the ends.  The only problem is that they're not solid all around, they're  molded with a groove on one side.  To correct I glued in some styrene and then sanded the excess down flush.  I already did one so the photo shows the other one still on the sprue awaiting detachment and sanding.

And this is how she looks now.

Some closeups:

  I have a whole set of unused Dragon Pz. IV Ausf.G Magic Tracks, so I used some for the spares just too see how they looked.  I'm not sure I'll keep them though.  I also had quite a few leftover half-wing nuts from that same kit so I drilled out some holes in the fenders and used them for the vent covers.  The rear fender flap springs are also extras from that kit as well as the hull MG34!  Gotta love Dragon for all the extras they include in their kits!

On the rear I scratchbuilt the tow cable holders from Evergreen strip and rod styrene, and twisted some 28 ga. copper wire to create the tow cables. 

Here's  little trick I learned from one of our very own forum members.  I didn't want to break the styrene rod when forming the loops for the tow cable, so I simply made a quick jig from a block of wood and some brass rod.  Then I could bend, pull and adjust the wire to the correct length and loop size with no fear!  When I was happy I removed the rods and transferred the pre-bent tow cable to the kit....with just a couple of adjustments made due to the muffler.  Gosh, but I can't remember which member it was!

Just a little more and I think it will be ready for the paint booth!

Very nice solution to the screw heads Ernest, even if you did initially add too many! Love the progress, keep it up!

A simple, but clever way to mark out the screw hole locations.. Nicely done  

More fine workmanship here.  

Didn't know you were a rivet counter - intended as a pun.  

regards,

Jack

Well Tony, my doctor did say I need to get more exercise!!

*sigh*  What can I say...despite my intentions for a quick, simple build, I keep hearing voices in my head saying, "Improve it, improve it!"

Getting back to the bench is one thing but did you intend to work up a heavy sweat Ernest?

Nice work my friend

Tony lee

That's correct Phil, not the little drain holes at the top, the larger ones below.  Dragon kits have recessed screws in there, but not Tristar.  Not knowing which was correct I chose to leave them as shallow recesses. 

Here's another update!

I didn't show you how I did the screwheads on the turret top.  First I taped some clear packing tape onto the roof of a Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. C that I had in stock (which turned out to be a mistake as you will see later) and just marked the holes with a Fine Sharpie marker:

Then I transferred the tape to the Tamiya roof, which turns out has practically the same dimensions.  You can see that I accidentally ripped the tape, but it still worked out fine.  To mark the holes I used a .8 mm dia brass tube that is sharpened at the end.  A quick twist or two and the sharpened tip cuts through the tape and into the plastic below.

 This is the method I use to make the screwheads as I did in my Coree Pz. IV Ausf. A a few years ago

Voila!  Relatively quick and easy screwheads! 

The rest of the turret went together with ease.  The only other detail I bothered with was the lifting hooks.  They're molded as just a lump, so I carefully carved the lump into more of a hook shape.

 With that done I returned to the upper hull, which had no real issues, other than filling gaps.  I simply followed the instructions and glued on all the necessary components, but left off most of the detail parts like tools, lights, etc.  I like to leave those off when gluing hull halves together so I don't break them.  Looks like the major assembly is done!

 No real issues with the rear except some gap filling.  The idler assemblies have a huge gap that had to be filled with styrene.  They're also a poor representation of the real thing, but I can live with them.

There's a join seam in the front glacis that I almost put a weld bead on, then realized that the actual weld is on top!  So I filled the seam and sanded the whole plate smooth.  I added stretched sprue weld beads to the sides.  I don't think this is accurate, but the this whole area where the drive assembly meets the glacis is inaccurate, so I left it alone.

The turret roof.  I added weld beads around the roof using Archer Fine Details.  They apply just like decals, but you have to be careful later when handling as they don't adhere that well to bare plastic.  They'll be OK once some paint is laid on top.  The welds on the actual turret are at the corners, not the top as I did, but I'm not trying to be super accurate here.

The screwheads are quite visible here and this where I realized I made a mistake!  As I said I used the Ausf.C turret, not realizing that the Ausf.D has LESS screwheads!!  OOOPS!!  Sometimes it pays to do a bit more research.   I had to fill and sand all those extra screwheads!  You can tell the which ones as they are a lighter color (due to the putty).....all the ones in the middle that make a wide W shape.

Next, all the little details.

pyrman64

FYI - those small holes at the top of the cupola ring are holes for water drainage - notice the lack of pooling water marks.

I believe Ernest was referring to the circular indents in the second ring (near the joint lines), not the drainage holes in the upper ring.

bufflehead

I drilled way too deep on the larger holes above the view slits.  I'm not sure what those are for, but all the reference photos I have show more of a shallow hole, so I filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and wiped the excess away with an papertowel moistened with alcohol.

FYI - those small holes at the top of the cupola ring are holes for water drainage - notice the lack of pooling water marks.

Dang Jack!!  You've got sharp eyes!!  Yep, that's exactly what I did.  Just bent some Evergreen strip styrene (can't remember the exact size) using smooth-jawed pliers and then dropped the bent piece into the view slit and glued with Tamiya Liquid Cement. 

It took only a couple of tries to find the right spot on the pliers to match the width of the view slit.  Also,the width of the strip was a bit oversized so I could trim the excess flush with the opening.  Unfortunately, couple of the pieces broke at the bend when gluing, but I just jammed the piece into the corner!  I rounded those particular inside corners with Mr. Surfacer 500.  I applied it quite thick and when dry, removed the excess with a cotton swab soaked with 91% Iso Alcohol.  That SHOULD have left a bit of a curve on the inside corner, but I won't know until I get some paint on it! 

Old habits die hard...  some really smart corrections here, Ernest.

Is what I'm seeing right, appears each vision slot in the copula was shored up with a single strip of styrene bent to size/shape?

regards,

Jack

Thanks Bill!  When I first got this kit I would have struggled to figure out how to improve it.  With a few years of building experience now, I'm finding that its not that hard to get an old kit like this to a level of detail that's more acceptable!   Of course a few years worth of collecting spares and other AM bits and pieces doesn't hurt either!!

You're dressing up this old girl nicely Ernest, love the little details like the bolts that you're adding to create the level of accuracy needed.

Jack, Johan, RB, thanks for the encouragement!  I'll try not to make a dog's dinner out of this!

Karl,  yeah I'm one of those that gets so wrapped up in Group Builds that I forget to come out of the GB cave!  I decided it was time to build one for the forum!

Hey Phil!  I totally forgot about that Pz III build waaaay back then!  Thanks for remembering!!  I really enjoyed that GB!

A few words about my building intentions.  I have the Tristar kit (non-Tauch) and the Dragon Vorpanzer kit in the stash.  From all accounts these two, newer kits build into very detailed and accurate representations of the Ausf. D (Tristar supposedly being more accurate).  I could just build one of these if I wanted a really accurate and detailed model.  Instead, my intention with this old Tamiya kit is not to correct any major dimensional errors, nor to super detail it.  In fact, I'm going to try to not use ANY photo-etch at all, nor any major resin, metal or plastic replacement parts (turret, metal barrels, hull parts, etc).  The goal is to simply fix minor errors, clean up gaps and add whatever detail I can using some smaller accessories, spare kit parts and minor scratchbuilding.  I do have a ton of rivets, bolts, nuts and other small detail parts sitting around that I might as well use, but as much as possible I want to use just plastic parts. 

So lets get going!

After taking a look at the upper hull, I decided it really didn't need much attention until after it was joined to the lower hull, so instead I focused on the turret.  Most the turret parts are on one sprue:

As you can see the turret shell is split into two halves.  I hope this doesn't cause too much problems.  One detail I noticed right away that is missing are the distinctive screwheads recessed into the turret roof.  I believe all Pz. IVs had these screwheads.

After removing all the turret shell parts and dryfitting them, the fit is actually pretty good!  So I glued the two halves together....the join seam running down the back looks nasty, but I think it will clean up OK.    I also added the side hatch hinges, which mount from the inside.  The fit here is not so good and will definitely require some filling.

Another view with the side hatch in place and the gaps around the hinges that will need attention.

I dryfitted the cupola parts.  The fit was clean with no filling required.  There was something odd about the cupola that kept bugging me though..... 

So I took a look at some reference pics........

Seems the cupola is missing those rather large conical bolt heads that are present on all Ausf B, C & D cupolas.  Also the view slit openings look way to large!   I'm going to have to do something about that! 

I mulled over how to improve the cupola without putting too much work into it.  In the end I decide to use strip styrene to fill in the view slits, flatten out the sharp corner on the armored viewslit plate(s) so I could add the conical bolts, and add some holes.

I have all these rivets, nuts and bolts that I've gathered over the years.  All different sizes from Model Kasten (I think), Bronco, CMK and Grandt Line.

For the cupola I used the largest of the brown Model Kasten conical rivets.  To remove I just used a sharp Xacto blade to carefully slice them off the sprue.

Sorry, at this point I got so involved with the cupola that I forgot to take more pics until it was done:

 I drilled way too deep on the larger holes above the view slits.  I'm not sure what those are for, but all the reference photos I have show more of a shallow hole, so I filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and wiped the excess away with an papertowel moistened with alcohol.

After filling and puttying the hinges. I sanded down the seam on the back and decided to add both the missing weld seam and the bolted strip of metal below the cupola, as seen in the reference photos.  The weld seam is just stretched sprue softened with Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement and shaped with a dull knife blade.  The bolt strip is just strip styrene with Model Kasten conical rivets.  I lost one of the port covers for the rear so I just made two more and detailed with the smallest of the MK rivets. 

You can also see that I added the screwheads on the turret roof, but forgot to take photos.   I'll get you a closer look in a bit! 

The gun, mantlet and front turret plate went together just fine.  It just needed some filler around the recuperator assembly and mantlet.  The hole for the armored MG sleeve was oversized so I shimmed it with strip styrene and sanded it flush before gluing on the MG.  Looks like I missed a couple of spots with the filler.....I'll address that soon!

Whew!  That's it for now.  I'll have another update soon!

the doog

Thank you for not disappearing into the black hole of a Group Build with this. We need more of the Old Guard here in the main forums showing the newbs how to do basic techniques.

Hi Karl,

Several years ago, we did do a "Vintage Armor" GB. Ernest's rendition of Tamiya's ancient Pz.III Ausf.M was a thing of beauty. :)  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/p/97004/1004248.aspx#1004248

Looking forward to seeing how far this one's going to go. I've got this kit somewhere in the stash too.  

Good to see you back on here and active, Ernest! Your builds are some of my favorite!

Thank you for not disappearing into the black hole of a Group Build with this. We need more of the Old Guard here in the main forums showing the newbs how to do basic techniques.

I really like the old Tamiya kits, lots of good modeling involved to bring them up to snuff, as is happening here. I'll enjoy this one.

Hi Ernest,

Very solid start, I am really looking forward to see this kit do its time journey  from the 70s 

Thank you for sharing!

Very Best Regards

Johan

Looking good!  (I thought you were just busy with 'other' things, not realized you were in a modeling funk).   I'll be following along on this one.

regards,

Jack

Thanks guys!  Maybe if I stick to it I might actually get it done this year!!  

Off and running Ernest!

Hey nice!

I just built this kit, my first one in fact, so will be nice to see whats your approach on this one.

Great start Ernest.