Dragon Nashorn 3 in 1 Kit 6386

Yes sir IB Friuls.

I did an OOB build comparison between the DML and AFV Club Nashorns awhile back on one of the sites and they've been on the shelf every since I finished the construction.

They both have their high and low points but for me the DML has the edge because of the production options.

I'll be watching because SPGs are Forever you know.

Tony lee

Hi Tony - lomg time no speak. Thanks for the pics. After Karls great explanation and your photos I have it correct.

Are those tracks Fruils?

Glad to help,. Marc!

Tony Lee

The long part is, I believe, part of the muffler system. Look a the next step---it hangs out from beneath the fenders and will attach to the muffler ends, eventually. Make sure Dragon didn't typically draw it in backwards!

The F30 thing is part of the track maintenance system. It knocks errant track pins back in as the track rolls by it. The other part is just a muffler guard, I believe?

Well I sat down the bench to complete step 6 and right of the bat I hit a snag.

Part H40 (39)

First what are they?

Second and this is the snag: When I test fitted it, it's to long.

So before I "hack" away to shorten it I will see what response I get from the experts.

No worries IB! Glad the build log is helpful for you. Looking forward to the pics!

Well...after making a note not to drill holes in the left fender for the Bosch light and reading Bills WIP over the weekend which he clearly states not to do also....guess what? YES I drilled!

I have plugged the holes. BTW Bill I do remember this WIP from 2010 as I was reading. Great stuff!

Sparten- I really like the MK's, however I do take my time with them so as that I do not look for a ledge.

Will post some update photos tonight.

Kudos to you for using those MK tracks. I only use the kit supplied Magic-Tracks or Fruil tracks (they are easy to build compared to the MK ones and still test my sanity like nothing else...)

Yes Roy: I have done about a dozen MK sets. They do test your sanity but the end result from my point of view is there moveable and look stella.

I always check with you guys who are more learned in armor and with this AM stuff to make sure things are compatable with kits I build.

IBuild148

A million thank you's Bill!

I read yours and doogs WIP's over the weekend and have them in my Nashorn folder for referance.

IBuild: Have you ever built  a set of the ModelKasten Pz III/IV indy tracks before?  You should know it's a huge undertaking.  Not trying to dissuade you but just to give you fair warning...  They look amazing once completed -- given that you've retained your sanity!

A million thank you's Bill!

I read yours and doogs WIP's over the weekend and have them in my Nashorn folder for referance.

SK-18s will do the trick for you just fine IB, no worries there, they include enough track links (just barely!) to fit two runs for the Nashorn's longer hull as you will need about 104 per side depending on the sag you want. I used this same set when I did my Nashorn in 2010  You can see that build log here if you're interested: http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=45

You will still need some of the kit-supplied Magic tracks for the hull front spare track run as you most likely won't have enough left over in the standard SK-18 set to do those as well.

Thanks Mikeym.

They Should The Nashorn is the Hornise and a Panzer IV offshoot.

IBuild148

There yours. Sent you a private message.

Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?

There yours. Sent you a private message.

Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?

IBuild148

Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.

Have a ModelKasten question. I told myself to build out of box but I have caved!

Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.

Will the SK-18's work on this Dragon kit or the SK-20's.

Description: Panzer III/IV middle model. 40cm opened horned track suitable for almost the entire range of mid-war Panzer III/IV vehicle family including: Panzer III G through N/M; Panzer IV E through H; Sturmgeschutze B through G; Sturminfantrieschutz; Hummel and Nashorn SPG and Sturmgeschutz- to name but a few. The most widely used track type used by the German army during WWII. Suitable for kits made by Tamiya, Italeri, Dragon and Gunze Sangyo. Some manufacturer's drive sprockets will require minor trimming. Full instructions included. Note: use on the longer Nashorn will require the purchase of SK-20 to make up the longer track runs

Thanks

Nice.

OK! Thanks Ernest for the explanation. I learn something all the time.

They probably just didn't want to waste a whole sprue section for a few clear parts.....its more economical to put all the related parts on one sprue tree, even if all of them don't need to be clear.

So what is the purpose of Dragon making them clear?

Yep, they are metal on the real thing. Is this pic of any help?

Those parts are all metal. Just paint them off white(Ivory)

Tony lee

Another question?

Parts K6/5 and K7 are clear parts and attach to F21.

What are they called? In reality are they glass or plei-glass?

Does anyone have a close up pic so I can paint them?

Thank You.

Roy - I caught the F32 mistake this morning. Those were the last things I put on at which point my mind was spinning and it was bedtime. Again thanks for help the help on the spacers also!

doog - I'll check out your blog after I post this update. I see I have "The Big Boys" checking in on this build so I am in good company with help and support.

Bill - Never let it be said, "I don't like challenges". Your right about "extra special atttention". Thanks for checking in.

Phil - Again thanks.

ACESES5 - Thanks for checking in. I love stugs so I'll look for your pics.

Here is the assembled glacis.

IBuild148

Phil. What do these spacers/templates look like? This is one of those armor questions I am not up on.

I think Roy's already got you covered, but the templates are parts H19/H20 and the note not to glue them in place is directly under the step 14 label in the instructions. They're flat, largely rectangular pieces with notches to help position a couple of smaller parts (H5/H6, H2)

IBuild148

RATS!!! I knew I should have asked someone before doing thos struts. Oh well. I got out the nail polish remover out and removed them and I will reatempt tonight.

Thanks SchattenSpartan for the help.

Here's a blog WIP of my Hornisse--basically an early Nashorn-- that may give you some hints and prevent you from making mistakes like I may have committed. 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/107610.aspx?PageIndex=10