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Mirror Models 1/35 Diamond T 969A wrecker WIP

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  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Sunday, June 8, 2014 8:24 PM

Ditto 

Interesting idea using the clips for weights. Just enough o apply tension on the string but not enough to pull the whole model down off the bench Surprise 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, June 8, 2014 4:00 PM

That's some seriously nice work on those cables Dave, very nice indeed. Beer

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Sunday, June 8, 2014 3:49 PM

Wow. I missed your last update somehow. I'm just glad I looked up todays page. I really likehttp://www.smilys.net/smilies_sagen_ja/smiley4633.gif how this is going. It's looking super.......http://www.smilys.net/smilies_sagen_ja/smiley4867.gif ......really great detail.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Sunday, June 8, 2014 2:15 PM

Thank you for following Mike! I do appreciate that you and others are enjoying my build. Beer

Soooo........five weeks on, and here's the latest. I finally finished fiddling with the service drum gears, and then decided that their housings weren't up to snuff. The little lobe at the bottom of the housing was too big; this is where the small gear sits which is driven by a shaft from the transmission for the service drums. I cut the lobe off just below the two bolts at the top of the lobe, then did some gentle cleanup with a file and reattached. I also replaced the damaged backing plate flange/trim piece with a tiny piece of sheet stock:

 

    

 

And with that all sorted, it was time to finish assembling the crane. I added grab handles to the feet of the outriggers and to the spotlights on top of the crane, electrical cables from the lights, cable guides just above the service drums, and retainers for the oxygen and acetylene bottles, all with fine wire. The retainers slip through holes on plates mounted to the vertical crane I-beams and for the moment are just dangling on the other side. They will get bolts to secure them to the beams soon. The cables themselves are nylon upholstery thread, which has a twist pattern like the cables. So here we are:

 

I put little office clips on the end of the cables to keep them taut, or at least somewhat so.

Next are the fenders and hood, and more work on the cab. Comments/critique welcomed, and thanks as always for looking.

Dave 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 10:33 PM

Still following your build, and it keeps on being more and more impressive and informative. Thanks for taking the time to share your work!

Mike

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 8:14 PM

Thanks for looking in RBaer! Beer

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Tuesday, May 6, 2014 10:56 AM

Excellent work!

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 7:11 PM

Brian- I am most appreciative of your high praise! Bow Down I do indeed enjoy the engineering challenge of altering or scratch building parts. Nothing wrong with aftermarket, and I have a small collection of resin and PE parts myself, but for me creating things out of raw materials adds to the fun of this hobby Geeked

Pawel- yes, I would agree with your assessment.

Dave

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 2:26 AM

Dave - my impression is that the lead foil is great to show something thats been bent and/or abused. For straight things the copper sheet does the job better in that it holds the shape. Once again - good luck with your project!

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, April 28, 2014 8:29 PM

Now this is scale modeling at it's finest!  Anyone can build a kit using just what is in the box.  But when you don't have a pre-made part you use your noggin' and MAKE it!  Very cool!

Brian

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Monday, April 28, 2014 8:10 PM

Pawel- thank you again for the kind words! My copper tape is roughly 0.15mm to 0.2mm, sorry I don't have the exact measurement but it is quite handy as you say. Pliable and rather easily cut and trimmed. I've used lead foil from wine bottles before as well but I think the copper tape is a better general purpose material for detailing.

Dave 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Monday, April 28, 2014 2:26 PM

Hello Dave!

Very nice progress here! The machine looks really good! Nice job on thinning down those details. For my detailing I use 0.2mm copper sheet - how thick is your copper tape? Some copper sheet often comes in handy and lets you kinda do your own PE. Good luck with your project and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Monday, April 28, 2014 12:54 PM

Bill- thanks very much for dropping by and for the encouragement!

Russ- you and I are in an elite class my friend, that of the Glacially Slow Builder's Club, cuz if I'm faster than anyone or anything it's only because mother nature's cold has slowed the progress of our gigantic frozen companions at the poles. Thank you again for the kind words, and I hope your Trumpeter build went well. I'm glad my build can serve as inspiration for you- I'm most appreciative of that!

The copper tape: a contractor friend gave me a scrap. I've seen rolls of the stuff at the big box home improvement stores (and I'm sure some of the smaller ones carry it as well) for around $40. Not cheap, but I've found it very useful.

Dave

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Slow-builder on Sunday, April 27, 2014 7:34 PM

Hi Dave,

As the name implies I build slow so you are way ahead of me now.  Your build is really going good!  Where did you get the copper tape?  I did get side tracked building Trumpeter's ASLAV-PC, a nice kit and less of a challenge, but your great pictures encourage to get back to building my Diamond T.

Russ

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, April 27, 2014 4:57 PM

Making good progress here Dave! Beer

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Sunday, April 27, 2014 1:46 PM

Russ- sorry for not replying sooner, but nice progress on your build. I wouldn't be surprised if you're further along than I by now.

Anyway, time for an update. Lots of fiddle, fiddle, fiddle on the wrecking equipment........first up were the twin booms, each comprised of a central tube and three spacer plates, to which four angle irons were welded to form a truss assembly. The kit central tubes and spacer plates are one piece, with the four angle irons provided in plastic separately. While the plastic angle irons are delicate and not a bad representation, I decided to try to do better and fabricated eight angle irons out of copper tape.

After peeling off some backing of the copper tape and cleaning off the goo, I used a combo square and my knife to cut off eight 2mm wide lengths, leaving them a little extra long to cut to exact later. I held the ruler part of two combo squares together to sandwich each copper strip, leaving 1mm exposed over the side, then used my knife handle to form a 90 degree bend.

And voila......I don't think they came out too shabbily.

 

I assembled the crane, the wrecker transmission (mounted on the lower I-beam, to drive the left and right service drums), the two brace legs (more nice engineering here I thought, with the inner sleeve simply sliding into the outer sleeve to position as deployed if desired).....

 

...and boom accessories (from top, L-R): boom heels that attach to the crane, snatch blocks, mast sheaves for the top of the crane (all have been thinned down except the outermost for comparison, and I replaced the little rectangular brace), and the boom sheaves for the end of the booms. These have also been thinned except the outermost as well:

 

Little do-dads were added to chassis equipment to finish this bit up: copper wire for air lines to each of the gladhands at the four corners of the frame:

 

Connection of the shock absorbers to the front axle, circled in red:

 

and the linkage for the parking brake, also in red:

 

One bit I was originally going to leave alone were the service drums, which look like this on the original (picture is from Squadron's Diamond T 4-ton Truck Walk Around, posted for discussion purposes only):

 

and the kit parts:

 

As you can see, the drum gear isn't quite big enough, and the gear attached to the transmission shaft to drive the drum only has a partial set of teeth. I puzzled and puzzled until my puzzler was sore, then I decided to do this, with .5mm sheet and the aid of a triangular needle file and my handy drafting stylus to mark the space between the teeth:

 

I'll be hacking up the other service drum presently. And with that, I'm off to the grindstone once again. Comments/critique welcomed, and thanks as always for looking.

Dave

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Slow-builder on Thursday, April 3, 2014 11:58 AM

This is my progress as of 4/2.  I'm going o take a short break to complete another project on my workbench.

Russ

https://www.flickr.com/photos/122048199@N03/13606008494/

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Wednesday, April 2, 2014 4:56 PM

Hi Russ,

I checked out Ngineering.com- nice site and looks like a good source for detail stuff. Thank you for the tip.

No opinion as to which set of rear wheels to mount first; sorry I won't be much help here. I agree the little locator pins are not as solid as those found on other kits. Looks like you may be ahead of me at this point as I'm still getting the wrecking gear together, plus adding the missing linkage to the parking brake and the front shock absorbers where they attach to the axle, as well as a short air line from the glad hands to a hole I drilled into the frame.

Sharing photos: I host my photos on my email site (I use Microsoft's Outlook.com and within that is a file/image storage space, OneDrive, where I keep my photos. Many people use a dedicated photo/image hosting site such as Photobucket or Fotki). From there I click on a picture I want to share, right click then select 'view original,' right click on the 'original' and select 'copy,' then go to the post you're composing on this site, make sure the cursor is where you want, right click, and 'paste.' Your picture should appear, possibly in giant size. Don't worry if it does, when you submit your post the photos should appear normal size. This just allows people to enlarge the image to see detail better. Oh- I had to set the folder to 'public' where I keep photos I want to share. I'm not sure if you'll have to do the same, it may depend on your photo hosting site.

In full disclosure I'm no tech guy; this is just the process I've found that works for me. If you need help from someone who knows what they're doing (haha.....), go to the 'Discussion Forums' page and scroll down to the Community Assistance forum under Feedback, Help, and Testing. There are at least two threads for posting photos there. I hope this helps!

Dave

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Slow-builder on Tuesday, April 1, 2014 12:21 PM

Dave,

Still getting familiar with posting.  The last part  of my post is missing.  I have a few photos of my progress, what is the best way to share them?

Thanks

Russ

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Slow-builder on Tuesday, April 1, 2014 12:15 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the info.  I think hinging the hood is beyond what I want to try.  If you do go ahead with hinging a source for very fine tubing is "Ngineering" they have tubing down to .018 inches.  You can get the tubing directly from them or from Walthers.com model train supply.

I have put a base coat on the chassis/suspension and engine.  I'll get the cab/hood done next.  Then I can do another base coat to get the inner braces on the fenders.  Then I'll mount the wheels.  I expect to mount the front wheels first and then one set of the rears.  I'll adjust the second set of the rears to get all wheels on the ground.  Any opinion on which set of the rears to mount first?  I find the tiny locating pins almost useless and the holes always need to be cleaned out.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Monday, March 31, 2014 12:45 PM

Hi Ernest- I did a quick search on Coree and they seem to focus on figures? In any event you're certainly ahead of me in that I've yet to tackle my first resin kit. Thank you for the comment on the engine work.

Russ- you and I could share the same handle, slow builder, although I've been really grinding on this one to keep the progress going.

I'm glad to hear you're also building this kit. Your approach to install the drive shafts and then align the axles sounds like a good way to avoid having to work around and behind the axles. I also like your idea to drill the universals to keep them in place without glue- sounds like a neat alternative. In any event though I would definitely recommend lots of dry fitting to allow each builder to come up with their own best method for installing this complex assembly.

I thinned the louvers with a combination of xacto #11 and #16 (scoring) blades and good old fashioned patience and care. The scoring blades have a bigger angle and thus don't easily protrude as far into the louver openings, helping to avoid scraping the back end of the opening. It's just a simple process of repeated passes, and I often use the back edge of the blade to avoid gouging the plastic. Tedious and time consuming? Yes. Better looking and worth the effort? I think so.

To be able to see the engine I've decided to thin down the left and right hood panels and not permanently attach them. At this point I'm not sure I want to glue them in the open position; I'm still considering this aspect and I'd definitely entertain ideas. I suppose obtaining a length of syringe from a medical supply or other such site and running a very thin wire through that would fashion a workable hinge for each side, gluing half the length, say, of each side to the hood panel and the other half to the brace on top to which the hood panels attach. Just ideas, so we'll see. I found myself down this particular rabbit hole because I decided I couldn't just cover up the beautiful engine detail, especially the spark plugs.

On the rear wheel rims the gap that was created by the wheel/tire halves was too much for me so I filled it in. I see that there is a seam where the back half of the rim overlaps and is riveted onto the front half, but I decided to not fuss over this detail (hmm..... Huh? ). I noticed the same tire seam as you; this would make sense to me with new tires. I wanted to represent mine as having some wear so I added a little filler as necessary and sanded down.

Anyway, thank you for weighing in and your encouragement. I welcome your thoughts as you progress, especially since we're roughly at the same stage in the build. My goal is to complete the cab, body, and chassis/suspension, then base coat as subassemblies before putting it all together for final finishes. I'm currently finishing the mast assembly that anchors the boom equipment. If you haven't reached this point, use caution as proper alignment can be tricky. On second thought, maybe you've already figured that out about this kit Wink

Thanks again for stopping by guys!

Dave  

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Slow-builder on Saturday, March 29, 2014 6:48 PM

Dave,

I just found your build, great work.  I'm also in the middle of my own Diamond T build, just a bit behind you.  Parts clean up has been a real pain.  So far nothing broken or lost.  After spending a lot time getting the drive train to fit I think a better sequence would have been to start in the middle and align the axles after installing the drive staffs.  What do you think?  Also I found that slightly drilling the universals allow the drive staffs too stay in place without glue.

How did you thin the louvers?  I'm at that point on my build and would like to give it a try.  What is your plan on displaying the engine detail?  I had thought to keep the  hood closed and as not going too wire the engine.  

On the wheels I ran a knife blade around the rim for additional definition.  Also I noticed in the Squadron reference some of the photos of the tires show a center seam so I was not worried about completely removing the seam.  Do you agree?

Keep up the great work.

Russ

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, March 23, 2014 9:52 PM

Stage_Left

Ernest- thanks for dropping by and the compliment! The resin kits you did: are you referring to the Accurate Armour Diamond T wreckers? I know they had both the soft top and hard top versions available, but I haven't seen them as available in their catalogue recently and, at over $200 with shipping they were prohibitive for me anyway. I was thrilled when Mirror Models stepped up!

Yeah the undercarriage is a bit tedious; each component is a separate piece, but when done it does look the part! More progress soon......

Dave

Sorry Dave, I must have missed your response!  No, I haven't done any Accurate Armour resin kits, just one from Coree and a couple of 1/72 kits by an obscure mfg!!

BTW, great job with the engine plumbing!!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:01 PM

Brian- thanks for the look and for the comment, I do appreciate it! I agree with your sentiment, and I'm admittedly a big Tiger fan myself, but I've got a healthy selection of 'other' stuff in the stash: Testors/Italeri M32 (one of the coolest things I'd ever seen when I built it the first time in junior high), Tasca M32, AFV Club M88, and Tamiya M26 among others. I'm looking forward to getting them on the bench, all in good time.

Thanks again SprueOne!

Dave

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Sunday, March 23, 2014 3:37 PM

nice recovery on the re-wiring part Yes 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:42 AM

Hey, this looks like a cool project.  Certainly something you don't see everyday, and if there is one thing I love most of all it is the more obscure and lesser known stuff.  Tigers, Panthers, Shermans and T-34's all are fun and have their place, but it is vehicles like this that make for more fun building and watching be built. CoolYes

Brian

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Thursday, March 20, 2014 6:09 PM

Pawel- thanks for following and for the nice words! I'll call it a lesson on the evils of impatience; I had a feeling I should have asked when I couldn't find the references I wanted but that instant gratification of plowing ahead was apparently too tempting Devil

Gino- thank you again Yes

Dave

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Thursday, March 20, 2014 1:46 PM

Very nice.  The wiring looks great.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

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  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Thursday, March 20, 2014 1:22 PM

Hello!

Nice job on re-doing the wiring, Dave! Ain't it a funny feeleing when reference pops up a little late? Respect to you for ditching your first try and doing it again, right. I look forward to next updates, good luck and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Maine
Posted by Stage_Left on Thursday, March 20, 2014 12:54 PM

subfixer

There just might be one of these in my future, thanks!

 
Ah cool, glad I could help shed some light! As I've said I really like this kit, just be aware that there's cleanup on EVERY SINGLE part due to the large sprue gates. The mold lines and ejector pin marks are almost non-existent. Anyway, a little more update. I've corrected the spark plug wiring, and added a water pump feed line (blue wire) and a coil seen behind the blue wire in pic #2 and identified with a red circle and arrow in pic #5. Thanks again to Gino for the link to that awesome rebuild log on a real Diamond T 969 wrecker!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Just a note to anyone considering adding the spark plug wiring: it's much easier to accomplish this before installing the coolant return line on top of the valve covers, part C10.
 
I've also carefully thinned out the side hood cooling louvers with a sharp blade on the part on the left, and what they look like before thinning on the right.
 
 
 
That's it for now; comments/critique welcomed and thanks for looking.
 
Dave
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