StuG III F/8 Fun in the Sun Complete Pics P.3

Bill another very cool project, how are you going to paint it? Thats the first picture I've seen of a StuG in Africa. Terry

       Bang, bang, bang.....

   Just finished up the Pzkpfw I and then right on to the StuG III.

     That's an impressive blitzkreig in itself.

Hi Bill,always enjoy following your stuff

Another good looking build Bill. You don't see many African StuG models, nice choice.

Terry

Steve

That's the same colours I use n the Pz III. Rather easy to lose under moderate weathering and dust. I deliberately went lighter as I went up the vehicle, I think the only place you can make the two colours out is on top of the turret. But of course, vehicles do get dusty and its easy to lose any colours on the real thing.

Bish

That's the same colours I use n the Pz III. Rather easy to lose under moderate weathering and dust. I deliberately went lighter as I went up the vehicle, I think the only place you can make the two colours out is on top of the turret. But of course, vehicles do get dusty and its easy to lose any colours on the real thing.

Indeed, as we well know from the early war 2 colour scheme.

Bish I liked your spray dusting, looked like all those B&W photos.  

Thanks terry, but I think it was the pigments that really did it, and that was all picked up from Bill. So I am looking forward to seeing what he does with this one.

I also, love the StuG.

Bish

Thanks terry, but I think it was the pigments that really did it, and that was all picked up from Bill. So I am looking forward to seeing what he does with this one.

More progress in the paint department to report! After letting the primer coat sit for a day, I used some MM Flat Black to create some pre-shading.

Basecoat came next. Since this one is getting the 2nd Tropen scheme ordered in March '42 (2/3 RAL 8020, 1/3 RAL 7027), I laid down the first color using MM Afrika Braun in very thin passes to build it up over the primer/pre-shade effort.

At the same time, the wheels-on-a-stick got their hubs done using a draftsman's circle template to mask the rubber wheels.

Next came the camo pattern using MM Afrika Dunkelgrau.

Rounding things out, the wheels and return rollers were glued in place on the suspension so that it could get up on its feet for the next stages. The workable torsion bars are doing their job nicely. Everything sits level and no 'floating' wheels.

Next up will be working on the rest of the exterior details.

Nice pattern on this one Bill.

And of course no pressure, I am sure we all know what we can expect from your builds.

Just looking at the first post again. Did I read that right that the rubber on the wheels is painted gunmetal.

Thanks Bish! You read correctly on the rubber color. It's Model Master enamel Gunmetal...not to be confused with their Metalizer Gunmetal of course. The enamel version behaves very nicely I've found under weathering/pigment treatment vs. a straight black for example.

Hi wbill76!

Would you say that this is a close reflection of the "Tropen" camoflage?

I am asking sine I am looking for inspiration for my "Stubborn E" build.

And this is Inspirational ;)

Happy Modeling

Zack

Zack, I hope Bill doesn't mind me chipping in here. Yes, this is an excellent reflection on the N Africa scheme as it appeared after March 1942. before that date, 2 different colour were use. The actually pattern of the darker colour could vary, but the proportion's would be the same. I recently built a Pz III and though the pattern was different, the colours and proportions were the same as Bill's.

When it comes to German armour colours, Bill is defiantly the man in the know.

Hi Zach!

Bish has you covered. There are 2 different Tropen schemes. The first was ordered in March 1941 and consisted of 2/3 RAL 8000 and 1/3 RAL 7008 which were generally darker tones than the second Tropen scheme ordered in March 1942. This 2nd scheme is what is also seen on the Bovington Tiger I for example.

The 2nd scheme followed the same 2/3 to 1/3 ratio but used the colors I've got here, RAL 8020 and RAL 7027. Interestingly enough, the Tropen scheme was authorized not just for use in N. Africa but also southern France and certain areas of Russia, most notably the southern areas like the Crimea for example. HTH and glad to provide any inspiration along the way.

Hi Bill,

I always enjoy watching your WIPs and great to see another one kicking off here.

Quick question for us newbie armour modelers - i see you've already glued on the wheels and return rollers.

Just wondering how you build the tracks and then paint them etc without upsetting the work you've done on the wheels?

(PS: i'm assuming i'll find out if i wait long enough, but curiosity always gets the better of me).

Thank you Mr. Bish!

Thank you Mr. Bill!

I just had a look at your Pzkpfw I Ausf. F.

I enjoyed every part of your Build Log. Is that what they call a Blog?

And know I will have a lot of fun following in this one :)

Happy Modeling

Zack

No clue why the spacing looks so awkward...but I will figure it out :)
Edited: Got it :) 

Chris

Thanks for the comments and glad to have you along! As for your question on the return rollers and wheels vs. the tracks, this is one of the advantages of using workable tracks although you could do the same with static tracks as well depending. In my case, the workables will be painted and detailed off the vehicle and installed later on. If I were using statics, I would still install the wheels and rollers and use them along with the sprockets and idlers (but leaving them removable) to 'form' the track runs (usually in two sections per side, one for the upper part, one for the lower) with the necessary sag and let them set up...then remove them, detail/paint, and reinstall along with the sprockets and idlers when the time came. HTH!

Zack

Cheers Bill - thanks for the tip!

I'm in the process of building my first set of indy-link tracks, but not workable. I used the method you talk of regarding forming them around the wheels and return rollers, but removing the wheels later.

I had assume workable indy links required the same technique - glad i asked first! About to embark on buying my first set of a/m working tracks, so will be sure to use the method you demonstrate here.

Again, thanks for sharing your techniques with here.

My pleasure Chris! Workable tracks offer a lot of different advantages (and some challenges too!) vs. static tracks but I've found them to be the preferred route when it comes to tanks with 'dead' tracks that sag. Glad to be of help!

Managed to get all the on-board equipment squared away over a couple of sessions of hand detailing for the various parts. For metal portions, I used a combination of MM non-buffing Metalizer Gunmetal and a light dry-brushing of MM enamel Steel. For the wood portions, I used a base of 50/50 Dunkelgelb/Light Gray followed by a thin wash of MM enamel Leather and some burnt umber artist pastels to provide some variation. I also opted to detail the fire extinguisher and jack in panzer gray to add a little color in those areas on the fenders as well. All the tool clamps were detailed with their necessary colors to match the camo scheme depending on where they installed on the vehicle.

Then it was time to fit it all in place along with the spare road wheels on the engine deck. The tool arrangement on the right fender is very tight and it's critically important that the jack be positioned just right in relation to the block and S-hooks in particular, so the careful work done earlier in test fitting paid off.

Next up will be paying some attention to the lower hull and suspension as a 'pre weathering' step and getting the tracks ready for paint.

Looking good. I have only just noticed the grill over the opening, I've not seen that before, its a rather nice addition. Is that a part of the kit or your own.

Thanks Bish! It's a unique feature to the F/8 (the 'birdcage' over the gunner's sight). The kit supplied it as a pre-formed PE cage plus a styrene base to create it (it also has an all-styrene part option that is much thicker). I thought it was a nice touch for them to include it myself.

Ye, it is. makes sense having that, last thing you want is a grenade dropping in there, that would spoil your day.

OMG,

I'm not even done yet with that 88, and you are almost finishing up another one Bill!

Really nice so far my friend, I always liked the style of the F/8 with that ugly square mantlet.

I really enjoy your WIPs, I'm learning quite a few neat things in them.