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1/35 Tamiya M-48A3 (E1?)

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  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by OldGoat on Sunday, September 27, 2015 5:32 PM

I can remember that spotlight coming on at night illuminating what seemed like all of South Vietnam. It was comforting, at first, then you realized "they" saw it too..........

Good job sir!

 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:19 PM

Just don't get stressed and burn ya'self out..... 
                                               http://www.mustangcollective.com/images/smilies/TurboSmiley.gif

                           I've done that several times.

 

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 7:04 PM

Thanks DM. I'm just not feeling all that productive. Sluggish.

But I have been working on the searchlight so I can finish that up.

I have a picture of the afore mentioned searchlight cover. I think it looks pretty cool but since I made it removeable it is lacking the retention straps.

And I wired up a longer set of wires just before I tested the connections and sealed up the unit. Just a few more parts and it's ready for primer.

:)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 10:29 AM

"Pulling a Baer".....   now that made me giggle.

I like the LED too, very cool.

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, October 1, 2015 7:03 PM

RBaer

"Pulling a Baer".....   now that made me giggle.

I like the LED too, very cool.

 

LOL. I've got a Magach 7 conversion kit in the pipeline and I couldn't help but think of your work Baer. I hope I can make something really cool out of it like you do.  :)

 

I've got the searchlight finished and I've gone and replaced the sighting devices with spares from the Dragon M-103 kit. Already these few pieces have really started to bring this turret to life.

I started to adress the tracks by removing the AFVC indies so they can be installed on the M-60 later, but.... the Tamiya tracks are a bit loose (not to mention the guide horns being in the wrong place) and did not take the shape I wanted them to. I believe they are just too stiff besides being a bit larger than they should because of the motorization this kit was originallly designed for.

Okay.... so I dig out the rubber band tracks that come with the M-60 and they are beautifully molded and have the correct details. I stick them together and add some LC and they just snuggled in and stuck without any issues. This is what I was supposed to expect from those Dragon tracks, but didn't get. Woot! Okay, now we're in business, right?

No. No we're not. They are about four or five track blocks too long on both sides and are even sloppier than the Tamiya tracks. [scratches head in befuddlement]

Okay then. I hold them up to the M-60's hull and I have to stretch them a bit just to line them up between the two ends. Huh? Alright. Guess that's where those are going lol.

So the AFVC indies go right back on the M-48 and they look spectacular. That's where they will stay then lol.

...and that's where I left off today. The M-60 is about to gain momentum and the M-48 is looking pretty sweet. I did find out that the tensioner rollers and the downward angle of the final drives could actually have been possible at some point, so they're not as far-fetched as I thought. I could be modelling an upgraded M-48A1. Cool.

 

Have a great evening gentlemen and remember, its all for fun. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, October 2, 2015 1:16 PM

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, October 2, 2015 7:40 PM

Nice progress so far, Mike, but I truly fear that you've frosted your searchlight lense. If you used superglue with a clear lense....not good. I did that to my old M60A2. I coulda cried because that was before I had the chops to replace a clear lense--an easily-rectifiable problem now. Hope I"m wrong about yours...Whistling

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Friday, October 2, 2015 7:42 PM

M. Brindos- I love your thinking on mod/no mod.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, October 2, 2015 8:28 PM

the doog

Nice progress so far, Mike, but I truly fear that you've frosted your searchlight lense. If you used superglue with a clear lense....not good. I did that to my old M60A2. I coulda cried because that was before I had the chops to replace a clear lense--an easily-rectifiable problem now. Hope I"m wrong about yours...Whistling

 

I really hope i didn't. I used clear gloss first, then white glue. When that didn't work then I used the super glue. I'm just worried that there may be gaps in the other materials I used. That's where I'm concerned. If I have to I'll gut that sucker and make a new lense. I just hope I don't have to.

 

mod/no mod? I'm not getting that.  ':/

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Saturday, October 3, 2015 1:39 AM

 

 

                       Superglue 101

 

                          (Hope this helps)

 

 
This phenomenon is known as blooming or frosting.
                                    http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee4/SLASHES2ASHES/SMILEYS/36_2_15.gif~original

 

 
Blooming is caused by high ambient humidity levels, or improper application of accelerators. Overuse of accelerators (when an excessive amount is used) can cause a violent curing reaction, causing the CA to frost, or, "bloom" when cured.

 

placing the item into a closed container, prior to it being fully cured, can cause this problem also.
That's  'cause Closed containers prevent the vapours from dissipating during the cure cycle and allows them to redeposit on the surface of the CA. To prevent this problem try this:

 

  • Use low odour or low bloom products. These are specifically formulated to reduce blooming and frosting.
  • Reduce the ambient studio humidity. Dehumidifiers should be set to the range of 40 – 50% for best results.
  • If you do not have a dehumidifier, choose low humidity days for your CA work.
  • You can Cross-ventilate your workspace (use a small fan) to dissipate curing vapours before they can resettle onto the CA area.
  • If using an accelerant, reduce the amount of accelerator or kicker used.

 

 
Hopefully the clear gloss you applied may have saved you. If not, a fresh  coat of future over the frosted area should “clear” it up.
                                     http://www.algorfaforum.co.uk/images/smilies/nice-day-sign-smiley-emoticon.gif

 

 

 

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Saturday, October 3, 2015 3:24 PM

Thanks DM! That is VERY helpful! I will remember that.  :)

 

For this mornings update, I was working on the bustle, or gypsy, rack. I replaced the molded on strap holders with wire, carefully carved out the slot for the loader's hatch hook, and assembled the bustle rack. I've finally got my hands on some Miliput two-part epoxy putty and I'm looking forward to using it for all of the weld seams I'm planning on adding.

And that's it for this build this morning. Lots of errands to run today and I'll probably not get back on either buil until later tonight or tomorrow morning.

Have a great day my friends. :)

 

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Saturday, October 3, 2015 3:56 PM

mod/no mod- I meant you picking and choosing to fix/modify stuff based on what you want to do,not factual accuracy

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Saturday, October 3, 2015 10:00 PM

Good to see you hacking away on these two kits Mike. Shame about the fogged searchlight lens. Should be easy enough to dip it in Future, if it doesn't work a dip in ammonia will take the Future right back off again.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Sunday, October 4, 2015 7:58 PM

Allen - That makes sense now lol.

Gamera - I don't know if it fogged or not yet. I'm a little afraid to check lol.

 

Welds, welds, welds. Using Milliput to make welds is definately a trial of patience. I think I need to let the stuff set up a little longer before using in this way again. When its soft its way to maleable and tends to lift up from where I wanted it to stay. I countered the lifting affect by dabbing a bit of LC on it but that made it softer lol.

But I persevered and I made it work. After that I used some of it to lift the hull casting up to level with the loader's hatch.

After that dried hard i used my trusty Bondo to finish off the newly raised lip.

I then troopered on with the welds on the gypsy rack but went back to using melted stretched sprue. Something I find much more tolerent and forgiving to use for simulating welds.

Just that little amount of work took me all day to finish. I feel mentally exhausted lol.

Thanks for keeping up with me guys. Nice to know I'm not alone in this hobby. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, October 7, 2015 1:36 PM

New parts are going to be ordered. I'm back-dating this to an M-48A2. ;)

Goodbye to the 2nd and 4th return rollers lol. I've got some work to do. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, October 8, 2015 1:22 PM

2nd and 4th return rollers have been removed and I buggered up the rubber on the road wheels, making sure to make the ones around the replacements more buggered than the rest of them. I've use Vallejo German Tire Black for the rubber which looks almost perfect for this application. I'll be using this color on the track blocks as well after I bugger up a lot of those as well. I'm not going for new-looking tracks this time. All of my references from Viet Nam show these were got really torn up.\

Thanks for looking!  :)

 

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, October 8, 2015 7:25 PM

I mixed up these two colors from Vallejo and got a wonderful dark O.D. that will play well for my shadows.

Its still wet in these pictures, but it dries darker than it looks.

Thanks for checking in. :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, October 9, 2015 12:52 AM

A wheelin’ and a dealin’ ……

              http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Animated/th_1-Animated-Disastermaster.gif?t=1296616998

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, October 10, 2015 9:59 AM

Looking really nice so far, Mike.
I'm curious what prompted the backdating to the A2?

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Streetsboro, Ohio
Posted by Toshi on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:03 PM

I am blown away, mind boggling!  How you come up with this is beyond my understanding.  WOW!

Toshi

On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell

 

Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world.  Mrs. Toshi

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Saturday, October 10, 2015 2:28 PM

the doog

Looking really nice so far, Mike.
I'm curious what prompted the backdating to the A2?

 

Because you don't see that many of them from that time period, for one. The Army used a lot of A2's in the southern half of South Viet Nam and they were largely overlooked.

Besides, there are a gazillion reiterations of this model and 90% appear to be Marine A3's. I thought I'd continue doing something different.

Toshi - My Dad is a tanker and I get a ton of references from his first hand knowlege. I've been watching him build tanks all my life and I'm continually drawing from his experiences.

That doesn't mean that I'm always making choices that reflect the reality of how these beasts actually did look though. There are plenty of modeller's that already do that and I'm a little more prone to stand out from the usual crowd in this way. I enjoy making things as I like them to appear and that doesn't always mean its going to be historically accurate. Just cool looking.

 

It may be a few more weeks before you guys see any more significant progress on this build. New parts are being ordered  for the back-dating and I'm not sure how I will have to modify things until they arrive. Until then I do have the tracks and lower hull to work on and that's about the only thing I can think of to do until I have the new pieces to work with.

Thanks for the comments.  :D

 

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Monday, October 26, 2015 6:42 PM

Hi guys. I've been feeling a bit burned out on the M-60 these last few days and I decided to get more work done on the M-48A2 conversion.

I was going to use an Urdan cupola for the early style A2, but changed my mind. I've found no examples in Viet Nam that had the early style Urdan cupola anyways. I do however have the early style A1 cupola and I've decided to go with that instead. Almost like a bigger, more detailed version of the Revell 1/48 M-48A2 I did a while back.

Anyways, on with the pictures lol.

I scratched the periscope with some Verlinden PE and fixed the cooling vents on the MG.

^ Doug, here, looks okay. I'm thinking I'll be using these figs for this build afterall as they fit the time period and pass for Army regulars.

I started adding the casting texture to the hull and engine deck.

A little scratched up details for the loader's hatch.

I added more tow lugs and the thinned front mud guards.

Added some detail to the crew heater exhaust.

Welds added to the new tow lugs.

Spare track links added to the fenders.

All in all, I'm liking what I've got going on here. It's starting to look less toy-like.

Thanks for looking!  :D

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 4:16 PM

Just more progress. Lots of little details have been added or scratch built. All of the extra weld beads have really taken up a lot of time, but they really boost the overall level of detail and make this old Tamiya kit really shine IMHO.

Lots of work so far and I'm not done yet.  :)

I've been having  fun making this thing look crude and heavy. Still, nothing is accurate as it could be, but its getting the look I'm after thus far. Big, ugly, crude, and mean.

Thanks for looking! Have a great day!  :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Puebla, Mexico
Posted by garzonh on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:23 PM

Nice Mr.Brindos...it certainly starts to look  H E A V Y

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 8:53 PM

Excellent.  :)

Thank you Garzonh.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, October 29, 2015 12:11 AM

She is starting to look like some seroius heavy metal there Mike. Love the weld seams, seems easy enough to do but I never seem to think to add them to my stuff.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, October 29, 2015 12:28 PM

They are pretty easy to do, but they are time consuming. This old kit needs the extra attention anyways. Perhaps Tamiya will revamp this kit eventually. Making it into a kit that could be made into an A2 or an A3 would be a really good selling point for them. There isn't too many things that are different depending on the time frame you wish to model. They could take a clue from the sales of cold war armor kits of late.

We all seem to be looking for this to happen. I'm just curious as to when someone will start paying attention. There have been attempts, but not when there was any, but little, interest and so these products were abandoned in near-sightedness.

I hope we will be seeing more interest in the cold war era of armor. There are some really fascinating subjects to be modeled. i.e - all of the heavy tank projects that proved to be worthless, but they still existed. There are kits, but no accompanying figures that are appropriate.

My foray into building the M-103 opened my eyes to this era of tanks and it fascinates me that they never proved to be of any real value in their time.

Anyways, I'm rambling and I need to stop before I bore the crud out of everyone.

Thanks, Gamera. I mean to make it look heavy and I'm glad it's really looking the part to more than just me.  :)

Happy modelling, my friend.  :)

 

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, October 30, 2015 4:58 PM

I spent my morning getting the fender brackets sorted out. As you all know they are not the best representation of what those parts really looked like. I have PE and resin replacements from the spares box, but I thought I'd just see what I coul do to make these passable so I can use the spares on more elaborate future projects.

That doesn't look half-bad at all.

I'll have to clean things up a bit later as the glue is still curing for now. With that out of the way I decided to work on the headlights and their brackets.

Thinning out the centers of the headlight brackets was a bit challenging, but fortunately I do own a rotory tool with a lot of neat bits to help me out for that part. The outsides of the bracket were easy with just a small sanding drum to get the thickness reduced and then refined with a fine sanding stick.

That was still tricky with further filing to the centers just to get them down enough to pass my preferences.

Now all they need are lenses which Tamiya does not provide. I've got a simple trick for that though. ;)

I made the lenses by starting with some clear stretched sprue and then heating up one end to make it "mushroom" into a concave shape.

Once I had four of them that were, more or less, the same size I sanded the backs of them to get them flat and then dry fitted to see what I was working with.

Next step was to paint the headlight "buckets". Black for the inside lights and silver for the outside lights.

After the paint dried I put a drop of Vallejo clear varnish into the sockets and dropped my lenses into them.

I think a little Tamiya "smoke" will be needed for the black lenses later, but for now, I think they look great.

That's all I've got for today, gentlemen. Have a great Friday night, enjoy those Halloween parties, and be safe!

Happy Modelling to you all!!   :)

 

 

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Friday, October 30, 2015 7:43 PM

Holy crap,Mike!

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