SprueOne

 

 

Rob Gronovius

Standard military wheeled vehicle locking system is just a chain through the steering wheel to prevent it from being driven. HMMWVs used a cable and HEMTTs and later had a built in spot to lock the steering wheel. CUCVs all were keyed alike so one key would start any CUCV. For some reason, we called the pickup truck the Ten-Oh-8 and the Blazer was the CUCV. Then there was the "Contact Truck" which was the M1031 but never called by the nomenclature. The ambulance was the "Cracker Box".

 

 

 

 

 

Right on! Good info. BTW, how is the CUCV phonetically pronounced? Whenever I'm keying this into a post, my mind is verbalizing it in my head as, kook-Vee, the "oo" like the in the word, "spoon"

 

 

 

It's pronounced Cuk Vee (rhymes with "yuk" sounds like cup)

Ok, thanks.

The suspension parts, axles, and transmission parts are glued into position.

The 4 struts (part #8) seem to be for the M1009 in the assembly instructions since MmF makes both kits. The CUCV technical manual that Mustang1989 provided a link show the positions a little different specifically for the M1008.

Now it's ready for primer. The longer drive shaft and exhaust pipe will be painted separately then glued on later after assembly of the bed and cab.

This is the tail pipe after primer. It already has a hollow end for realism. I don't need to drill it out

Nice work, it's always cool watching a model come together. 

Hey Gamera, I agree completely. Thanks for checking in and your comment.

The rear bumper is assembled and ready for primer. A few things are not clearly illustrated in the assembly instructions but were pretty easy to adapt and figure out.

(PE-15) is the trailer power supply receptacle cover. The assembly instructions does not describe this part. I saw it on ref pictures on the internet so I wanted to include it on my model.

It would look too flat if I just glued it into position on the bumper so I adapted the receptacle part. First, I found a piece of guitar string (from my brother's guitar). It was just about the right thickness for the spring loaded hinge. The receptacle was a stack of 3 (PE-6) parts that is for the M1009 kit. (The same PE set is included in both the M1008 and M1009 kits) Then I glued (PE-15) on top. It looks about right now.

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The diamond plate (PE-11) slightly over hangs the center area of the rear bumper. I suppose I could have filed it flush with the contour of that cavity after I glued it in place but I didn't.

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(PE-9) is not described in the M1008 assembly instructions but it looked like it belonged over (PE-10) based on internet ref pictures. However, (PE-9) is described in the assembly instructions for the M1009 kit.

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Rear bumper assembly is complete with exception to the tow shackles. I glued four rivets from a Meng set. Two on each end.

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Thanks for looking...

http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_05_of_12.jpg

I'm starting to paint today and was wondering what the color of the steel wheel part of the spare wheel mounted under the bed would be?

The body color green or gloss black or ?

Excellent!

A genuine body of fine work here.

Very kind words. Thank you.

Ah krap, I think I missed your last post, anyway nice work there on the bumper!

Jeez man!!! This thing just keeps getting better and better lemme tell ya!!!!

Gamera

Ah krap, I think I missed your last post, anyway nice work there on the bumper!

 

Haha, no worries and Thanks for the compliment.

mustang1989

Jeez man!!! This thing just keeps getting better and better lemme tell ya!!!!

 

Awesome, Thanks for the four thumbs up!

I got a little more done this week.

The posts for the side, rear view mirrors are not included in the kit so I made them from wire as suggested in the kit's I-sheets.

The base color is MM1714 (FS-34127) Forest Green, shot through my AB. After I made a new swatch that color just looked the best. (As suggested by Heavy Arty)

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She's coming right along- nice work.

Thank you Sir.

The glass is super challanging to trim to fit. I can't get it to sit against the rubber weather stripping as GM intended. At least looking reasonably decent will have to do.

Next update is the lights, front lights lenses, and tail light casted blocks.

The reflective head light parabolas are painted with Molotow liquid chrome. Clear orange on the tip of a brush was touched at the back of the turn signals. The four lenses are clear resin. The front are convex and the backs are concave, man these guys don't miss the details.

The tail light blocks are also clear resin. They fit flush on the outside but have huge gaps around the edges. They are also left and right, top and bottom. This was discovered by dry fitting first. I painted the backs of these with the Molotow pens then masked off the little, reverse light, rectangles and painted the outside with clear red acrylic.

The wiper blades and arms are included as PE in this kit. Next time I build one of these I will NOT cut the blade off of the arm like I did with (A). Leave it attached like (B) and just articulate it against the windshield glass.

Now I have to glue that tiny part back onto another tiny part.

Looking good!

I bought one of those Molotow pens for headlights on tanks, great item!

In a rush to assemble and finish this model I didn't notice the slight warpidge of the cab shell part and the alignment issue with the bed.

The front/right fender area is warped so slightly that I didn't see it until after it was assembled. The rear bed misalignment was due to how the rear/right leaf spring sits on top of the rear axle.

I carefully removed the rear axle from the leaf spring, ok. Then I was pulling out the floor part from the cab and it sort of exploded. Luckily every thing landed on the bench top and on my lap so no damage. I just pulled on the magic part and it all just disassembled itself very, very rapidly.

I'll just be over here working on this ...

Yet, another of those  Professional Modeler's tricks,  that keeps us coming back for more

Hey DUSTER, Thanks for the comment

Oh my gosh, well at least nothing looks damaged. I hope nothing slide by your bench and lap and vanished! 

It's all accounted for. Plus the broken parts were clean breaks which can be just glued back together.

SprueOne

It's all accounted for. Plus the broken parts were clean breaks which can be just glued back together.

 

Good to hear, having had a few "situations” in the past, I share your relief.

Now it’s Model On, Brother!

yeah, no big disaster. I'll have a little time today to start with glueing the windshield back into place.

Disregard.