Well things are looking good and it’s a slow process but surely faster than applying Squadron putty and rolling on the Zimm pattern. 

I recently  did and posted here a wip of the Dragon KT early turret and used the Meng Zimm decals that had almost a perfect fit. I used thin CA for 99% of the Zimm decal gluing. Tamiya thin glue will not work since it only will melt plastic and not the decal material as a bonding agent. Remember to use German red primer paint in the Zimm chipped spots cuz that’s how it looked since the Zimm was applied at the factory over the primer followed by paint and the primer was seen if the Zimm got chipped off.

Nice work so far, i have not trip the Zimmerite decals yet, but they look nice from what i have seen.

I always paint my wheels and tracks off the kit, that way i can get in behind them and get all of the track, it amazes me how people can paint tracks after being fitted.

She looks good to me! 

Great job on the figure faces, the upper one looks perfect and the lower one personally I'd just let it dry and then touch up the area around the eyes. It's worth a shot instead of repainting the whole darn thing. 

Thanks for the red primer tip!

Bish : they are stickers, not decals! You just have to cut them off with a sharp blade, they are easily repositionned but it's a bit tricky to work them in the right place when they stick immediately.

I'll try other options for other builds - decals with the new Academy Panzer IV H, resin with a Dragon Panther A, and I may have made mistake when buying a tamiya Panther with photoetched zimmerit...

Like you, I'm in awe of people painting glued on tracks... I saw some modellers paint the wheels and tracks then wrap them in paper towel and tape before assembling and painting the rest of the model... I think some put everything together for the picture then work subassemblies. I think I even saw a guy who built and paint the wheels and tracks together, but separated from the model! He just glued them on when finishing!

Thanks for the correction, maybe its Meng ones that are decals, or they might be stickers as well. I am planning on getting a Meng Tiger II and trying their Zimm, i normally apply my own with Milliput but willing to try most things once.

Meng makes zimm decals for the KT and Panthers. Here's the one I used: 

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1157959-meng-model-sps-060-sd-kfz-182-kingtiger-porsche-turret-zimmerit-decal

And on my KT:

Although being decals that need to be dipped in water to separate from the backing paper they tend to have a weak bond around the edges. I had to go back with thin CA to get good bond on certain spots.

Getting off my lazy butt by episodes, I finally managed to have some work done on this kitten.

My camo scheme was sometimes off, my airbrush spattered a little, I corrected the stripes with kind of a semi-drybrushing ; it worked reasonably well.

Tried some slight chipping around the engine and crew hatches, careful not to overdo it as those machines were pretty new. Could have done better.

I made a mess with Tamiya's panel line, I tried it on the zimmerit, which was already a very stupid idea, and when I tried to swipe it with an X20 soaked q-tip (like the tag suggests), it started to attack through the Vallejo varnish (acrylic rattle can) to the paint. I think I'm the main culprit, I probably should have let the varnish coat cure for hours. Anyway, I correct most of the mess with drybrushing again and the rest should be relatively hidden.

I'm very happy with the way the engine exhausts turned on, kind of an happy accident (the primer, not very well applied gave it texture?!), just drybrush coats of flat black, red brown...

I'm considering doing a full model wash with oils and lighter fluid, to really mark the zimmerit grooves but am afraid to ruin it... opinions?

Next are pigments on the wheels, kit tracks and tools..

The camo came out great.

Yes of course Tamiya acrylic thinner is going to attack your Vallejo acrylic clear coat.You need to think opposites,acrylic clear-enamel or lacquer wash,and vice-verses.

So your oil wash will work with the acrylic clear,but make sure it is fully cured.

Oldest rule of thumb in the book, dammit! should have stick with my regular oil wash and take more time!

Thanks Tojo!

She looks pretty darn good to me. 

Tojo has good advice there. Plus I tend to let a clear coat dry a couple of days before doing anything with it. Course, I've had my own problems- I just clearcoated a TD and found a bunch of waterspots underneath it. Guess I could just overpaint them but I've of half a mind to just throw some camo nets and foliage over them. 

  Excellent work, the camo looks great!

Regards!
Rodolfo