Hello Gino!

That machine is looking good! I like the extra detailing you did a lot. Good luck with your build and with the paint, looking forward to seeing more pictures here. Thanks for sharing and have a nice day!

Paweł

Thanks Pawel.  It has been a fun build so far.

Very cool, like the idea of making the bridge workable.

Thanks Gamera.  The bridge being movable does leave lots of options.

I finally got some paint on it.  It is depicting vehicle 14 from B Co, 10th Engineer BN, 3ID during the initial invasion of Iraq in March '03.  It is a PrePo stocks draw vehicle as part of 2 BDE.  I used the below picture of a USMC AVLB as a reference.  

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

I painted it using Testors Model Master Modern Desert Sand (FS33722) in the small spray can.  It is a little more yellow than their Sand (FS33531) that I usually use.  It looks pretty good and should represent modern CARC Tan/Sand pretty well once weathered.

Here it is so far.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

Next is the tracks and weathering it a bit.  Then I will add some gear to it and a couple of figures.  

Nice, very nice. Weird that the lighting in the room where you photographed these latest images make the model look, primer gray.

This is a stunner. Your decals look the part. You have done a very nice modification. I'm sure it will even be better after the weathering and figures.

Well Done...

Ben

Nice! Looking forward to seeing her all together with the weathering worked in there. 

Thanks guys.  It has been fun so far.  Almost done.

SprueOne, it must be the colors on your screen.  It still looks sand on mine.

HeavyArty

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

 

Harold

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

Harold

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

HeavyArty

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

 

Hello!

It might be worth it here to draw up your own decal pattern on the computer and then try to find a company to print decals for you - I have done it severeal times now and I'm very happy with the results. Unfortunately I only know such companies in Poland and Germany - maybe with the exception of DRAW! decals (USA or Canada - I'm not sure) - but I don't know if he takes every custom order, but hedefinitely has a machine for printing decals and printing white letters is no problem for him.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

Sergeant

 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

Thank Rob.  I hope to have some updated pics soon.  It is almost done.  I had thought about an AVLM too, but didn't want to spend the extra for either Hobby Fan MICLICs or those out of the Rye Field ABV kit.

HeavyArty

 

 

Sergeant

 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

 

 

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

 

Harold

I have finally finished it.

Firstly, I fixed the bridge where the angled section meets the flat section.  It was pointed out that the 70-ton bridge has a fixed pin at the top and a bolted plate at the bottom.  The 60-ton bridge in the kit has removable pins at both locations.  

I cut off the removable pins and modified both locations to match the above pic.

Now on to the completed build.  I weathered it with acrylic paint washes and some drybrushing of a sandy color.  

I added a bit of rust and bare metal to the foot that supports the bridge as well.

With the erector arm deployed.

The weathered bridge.

The whole enchilada...bridge mounted on the carrier.  This is one big model.

That is it, fine'.  I really enjoyed building this conversion and am very satisfied with the way it turned out.  It looks impressive sitting on my shelf as it dwarfs an Abrams.

She turned out great!!! Again it's always nice to see something a little different like this.

Very well done! I'm sitting here thinking about the actual size of the model, must be impressive as heck in the case (or shelf...).

Thanks RBear.  It is quite huge.  It dwarfs an Abrams and does look impressive on the shelf.