Yes, the filters I am refering to is the commercial stuff one can buy to make the tone and look of the basecoat paint alter and pop.

I just wonder if it would work on the IDF beigh/grey. Maybe for this model I should leave it off and just do some shadingdust and streaks here and there to weather it.

Could watercolours be used for streaking? Lets say it was dusty (a tad more brown then the IDF grey) and is has a little rain or dew to make the dust run off the side.Or would oil paint with thinners brushed over it to blend it in be a beter bet?

Theuns

Oh okay. No, the drive sprockets are not supposed to be adjustable. You're going to have to make it work as best you can.

Filters for what, exactly? Filters are generally used to modify a tone or shade and you can use any medium to do it. 

However, I did use a red watercolor filter to make a green tank, brown. It worked far better than repainting the model.

So filter... Yes. But what are you filtering?

Mike, no the rear drive sprocket axle has a slider mound that can move forwards or  back  by mayb 2mm or so, the front idler wheel has a "one position only" mound onto the hull.

I am sure that this is not as on the real one but the model is like this for some odd reason.

Thanx for the info on the modulation, do you guys use "filters" to help make the paint pop? I have seen vids and it looks interesting but I cant find any at y local shop and was wondering if there is a way to make my wn maybe??

Theuns

You are talking about the front idler wheel, right? Not the drive sprockets in back? The drive sprockets is not suppose to be adjustable, so I'm going to assume you mean the front idler because that is adjustable.

As to your theory about modulating the paint, with the darker on the bottom, yes. That is how I do a lot of mine. A darker shade of the base color on the bottom of the hull, fenders, and rear turret. It does help trick the eye into shadows and depth that would otherwise go more unnoticed.

Right you are about the spelling, I should have checked before posting LOL

As for the tracks, The drive wheel axle has a slider that fits into the hull, but even at full forward the problem is still there. During a moment of insomnea this morning early I thought of cutting off the axle and then drill a hole slightly forward to install a new axle for the drive wheel, I am worried that the tracs under tension might cause deformation of something over time.

I have rad some articles of people painting the sides and bottom of a monotone tank with a very slightly darker shade of the base colour for a modulated effect.

What do you guys think of this? Being newish to armour I have loads to learn.

I think it may simulate the way the paint will fade ontop of the tank more than on the sides, bit then dirt and dust will collect on the flat top sides more than on the sides negating this effect?

Theuns

Looking Sharp, indeed, Theuns!

Looks like it is coming along well.

One correction though.  It is a Magach 7, spelled M-A-G-A-C-H, which means "ramming hit" in Hebrew.

She looks sharp!!! 

Guess there's no way to adjust the wheels to fit the short tracks?  

I made some progress on the model, loads of little bits to glue on but is starting to look almost like a modern MBT

I just need to find the correct sand grey of the IDF in acrilic so I can weather with oil paints

IMG_20190904_063114 by Theunis van Vuuren, on Flickr

It looks like the tracks are a few mm to short though :-(

even with the wheels installed as per instructions.

IMG_20190906_130840 by Theunis van Vuuren, on Flickr

IMG_20190906_130805 by Theunis van Vuuren, on Flickr

Theuns

Great ,it confirns what I was thinking, Thanx :-)

Theuns

Those are supposed to be there, they represent foundry markings.