Next progress report: 

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

Step 4, adding all of the wheels and the plate under the engine.... again making sure alignment is proper. I left the sprocket wheels loose to aid in getting the tracks on. That’s one thing that I’ve learned for doing indy link non workable tracks....

Next steps are to get this area all pre painted in black and start on the tracks... tracks are gonna take a few days I’m sure...

Next update, the beginning of step 5.... tracks...

Each sprue has 44 track links and 44 Center guide teeth...

Here are 44 links assembled into lengths of sixes and fives... no center guide teeth added

After about 90+ minutes of needle file swipes and gluing I had 88 links completed into two runs of 24 and two runs of twenty, none with center guide teeth....

and that was enough for today... I find indy track links tedious and not enjoyable,,,, just like the real damn things, so I guess they get an A for results there...

Next update... more tracks... I completed the upper and lower flat run lengths... without center guide teeth. I figure at least another two days bench sessions before these tracks are completed...

Adding the center guides is gonna be the tedious part... 

I will be following you every step of the way Carlos. Now I can relate to how important it is to get the road wheel arms level.

Harold

Sergeant

I will be following you every step of the way Carlos. Now I can relate to how important it is to get the road wheel arms level.

Harold

 

Good to have you following along! I bet you can appreciate alignment after your Ontos. Lots of things there for you to keep lined up!

Nice looking subject, coming on well.

I had good time with mine 23 years (or so), ago.  Man, I've been building models a LONG time.   

Yeah, those tracks look good if painful!

Tony, they are indeed as tedious as the look. And with still having to add the center guide teeth, I can’t even claim to be halfway done with them yet...

Tankboy 26 years since you have built this kit? Yes that is awhile. That’s about the same time as I built their M26A1 Pershing, since that was the first one that I scored.

Gamera, they will look good once completed. I’m not worried about that. In the long run, worth the effort.

So over the past few days I have done a couple sessions of adding the center guide teeth to the track runs that I’ve built so far...

1st session...

2nd session...

More to come in a few days

Carlos, I would really like to use workable tracks on my next project. They look time consuming, but so much more realistic.

Harold

She's getting there! 

Sarge, they are time consuming tracks indeed. But you really can’t beat their articulated look. 

Gamera, slow but sure she is getting there... 

Another session... more center guide teeth added, and a few short sections for the ends of the runs

Today I had a nice airbrush session in the morning before the day got too hot here. A nice coat of Tamiya Flat Black on the running gear

Tomorrow I can resume work on the guide teeth, and then work on installing the tracks after that...

Carlos, I was going to ask if you paint your road wheels separate from the hull, but I can see what you're doing. So do you primer and paint the lower hull and wheels, or just prime before gluing the upper and lower hulls together?

Harold

Sarge, this is more a weathering technique than a primer. I painted it back now to insure better coverage rather than after all the fenders and tracks are on. If this kit was not molded in light gray it would not be such a necessity now. 

It’s pretty much all gonna be earth tones when this is done.

stikpusher

Sarge, this is more a weathering technique than a primer. I painted it back now to insure better coverage rather than after all the fenders and tracks are on. If this kit was not molded in light gray it would not be such a necessity now. 

It’s pretty much all gonna be earth tones when this is done.

 

Harold

Looks good seeing her come together! 

Sarge, you can easily prime gray over the black for your top coat base. The main reason for this is to get all the shadow areas in black beforehand. Otherwise they tend to show up in the end.

Gamera, once I get these damned tracks on, the remaining assembly will go rapidly.

Success!!!

In my morning session yesterday, I was able to get the tracks on!

Now if you notice the three darker links on the upper run, there’s reason for that. After completing the one side, it looked to me that there would not be enough links for the opposite side, and the spare links to be stowed on the turret side. So I went into my spares bin, found the remaining links from my old M26A1 build, and added them to the second side. I was partially correct in that once it was all done, there only would have been two links left for the spares on the turret. But that is not something that you want to discover in the middle or end of adding the indy link tracks. 

Now the hardest part of this project is behind me...

stikpusher

 

Now the hardest part of this project is behind me...

 

Back when you gave me some sand shields for my M4A3 Sherman I remember thinking why did he have spare parts, now three years later I know the answer because I have a bunch of spare parts too.

Harold

Yay Stik!  I absolutely HATE indy link tracks w/ end connectors and center guide teeth.  But nothing beats the look.  Well done man!

stikpusher

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

 

So, I'm scrolling through to get down to the most recent comment, and this picture struck me.

All I could think about was the Shep Paine dio booklet in the Monogram kit and on how he went to some trouble to cut (one, I think) arm to show a road whee going over some bit of terrain on the dio.  (I also have this memory he used a carriage bolt to hold the kit to the dio, too.)

I needed that rememory.  Many thanks.

Thanks guys... doing the math that was 174 links total and 174 center guide teeth... I save all the extra parts off a kit... ya never know when they’ll come in useful. I built the M26A1 when it was first released back in the mid 90s, so those links have been with me a LONG time...

CapnMac82

 

 

stikpusher

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

 

 

 

 

 

So, I'm scrolling through to get down to the most recent comment, and this picture struck me.

All I could think about was the Shep Paine dio booklet in the Monogram kit and on how he went to some trouble to cut (one, I think) arm to show a road whee going over some bit of terrain on the dio.  (I also have this memory he used a carriage bolt to hold the kit to the dio, too.)

I needed that rememory.  Many thanks.

 

Oh he did a lot more than just one.... good memories indeed....

Back on to building today!

Step 6, small details added to upper hull

Step 7 upper hull added to lower hull and more small details added on the glacis plate

I’m letting this dry overnight then on the next steps tomorrow...

stikpusher

Back on to building today!

Step 7 upper hull added to lower hull and more small details added on the glacis plate

 

I’m letting this dry overnight then on the next steps tomorrow...

 

 

 

Harold

Sergeant

 

Carlos, when you painted the exterior of the lower hull with black primer were you able to keep paint off the surface where you glue the upper and lower hulls together? Do you think it matters? I've been under the impression that glue like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement can be contaminated if paint is present.

 

Harold

 

Harold I had no problem with the black paint on the contact surfaces. Most of it was clear due to my angle of airbrushing on the black. The areas that did have paint I hit for a few swipes with a fine grit sanding stick and cleaned up.

Thank you Carlos, your explanation confirms it's important to keep the glue surface clear of paint and allow the cement to melt the plastic making a good strong Joint without paint contamination.

I want to use your technique and give the exterior lower hull a coat of black primer as a shadow coat. Then I will paint the interior, but I'm still a little confused about the exterior.

With a full interior I must do the following steps:

1. Clean all the parts with alcohol before they are glued in place to remove molding compound and surface residue.

2. Then paint the interior with grey or white surface primer for good adhesion to the styrene, resin, brass and aluminum parts.

3. When the primer has dried, paint the interior with semi-gloss or satin white paint as a base coat.

4. Then hand paint the interior details.

Once all of the above steps are completed I can glue the upper and lower hulls together. At this point the lower hull has black primer and the upper hull has no primer. Do you paint the complete exterior with black primer? What if I want to use grey primer on the exterior, do I paint over the black on the lower hull? This is where I'm a little confused.

Harold

In this case, if I were to prime the hull in gray, I would leave the black on the suspension and running gear areas for shadow effect. Probably on the hull bottom also. But the hull front and rear would be in gray along with all surfaces abover the fender topsides for a uniform base color. If I were to prime. Seeing as I usually work with enamels, with their excellent adhesion qualities, and I’m not using brass or PE on the exterior, there is no absolute requirement to prime in this case. As there would be if I used that AM here and was working with some acrylics for my topside.

 I could have also gone with a base color of Burnt Umber on the running gear instead of black. I really wish that Photobucket hadn’t pulled their extortion stunt, because I had some good photos of the process that I’m going to use here on older build threads.

stikpusher

In this case, if I were to prime the hull in gray, I would leave the black on the suspension and running gear areas for shadow effect. Probably on the hull bottom also. But the hull front and rear would be in gray along with all surfaces abover the fender topsides for a uniform base color. If I were to prime. Seeing as I usually work with enamels, with their excellent adhesion qualities, and I’m not using brass or PE on the exterior, there is no absolute requirement to prime in this case. As there would be if I used that AM here and was working with some acrylics for my topside.

 I could have also gone with a base color of Burnt Umber on the running gear instead of black. I really wish that Photobucket hadn’t pulled their extortion stunt, because I had some good photos of the process that I’m going to use here on older build threads.

 

I don't think I would have considered that option of two colors of primer, but it makes perfect sense. The reason that I like to use grey primer is I know what to expect with #71.043 Olive Drab. And while I haven't had much opportunity to experiment I have read that primer color can change the top coat color shade. But under the fenders is not a problem.

On my current project I originally intended to paint both vehicles olive drab. However I realized that after the Vietnam War camouflage paint schemes were the norm for tactical vehicles.

I'm watching and learning by your example.

Harold

SP: Nice work there- good to see the threads all together!!! 

Thanks Gamera. It is so good to be past that point.

Harold, I’ll show you my T26 Pershing here and the weathering look that I am shooting for. In this case I painted it normally first. But as you can see, those colors pretty much disappear under the weathering.  And you can see where shadow areas missed are illuminated by the flash in the rear 1/4 view. But basicly it’s dark  earth tone, in this case Raw Umber I think, on top of the base colors, then a light earth tone, usually raw sienna applied over the darker colors in a light misted look to give more depth and the look of more wet stuff underneath drying out. 

stikpusher

Thanks Gamera. It is so good to be past that point.

Harold, I’ll show you my T26 Pershing here and the weathering look that I am shooting for. In this case I painted it normally first. But as you can see, those colors pretty much disappear under the weathering.  And you can see where shadow areas missed are illuminated by the flash in the rear 1/4 view. But basicly it’s dark  earth tone, in this case Raw Umber I think, on top of the base colors, then a light earth tone, usually raw sienna applied over the darker colors in a light misted look to give more depth and the look of more wet stuff underneath drying out. 

 

 

It’s really easy to do.And you do it last after decals, washes, etc. A solid dark coat of an earth color over the running gear and areas likely to be covered in dirt/mud. Then a thinner lighter coat of dry earth tones to replicate the drying out and dusty areas. 

Practice on a paint mule and you’ll get the hang of it quick. You can also add pigments for a little texture of clinging mud. Another option is to leave just the dark color on for a fresh wet look. There is quite a bit that you can do with this technique.

Sorry to interrupt this post, but where the h--l has everybody been! I've had nothing from this forum for about 3 months, and today, about 20 posts show up. Any ideas on why?

M1GarandFan

Sorry to interrupt this post, but where the h--l has everybody been! I've had nothing from this forum for about 3 months, and today, about 20 posts show up. Any ideas on why?

 

 I’ve seen a bunch of complaints on here about folks not getting notifications. Then within the last 24hrs saying that they’re working again. 

I just check in every day myself...

So yesterday’s progress. 

I had to clean up the bottom side of the fenders, as they had some serious ejector pin flaws sticking out about 6mm or so. At best there is perhaps 2mm clearance between the top of the tracks and the fenders.

Before clean up

After clean up

Then I airbrushed on a coat of Flat Black over the outer surfaces of the tracks and lower surfaces of the fenders

Then I completed Step 8, gluing on the fenders and the right side headlight details, plus a few other small details

Today’s update:

Step 9, assemble the fender stowage boxes... easy enough, just add the grab rails and latch handles

Step 10, glue the stowage boxes in place, assemble and add the exhausts, and final front hull small bits

Step 11, add final bits to the rear hull

and the hull assembly is now complete! 

M1GarandFan

has everybody been! I've had nothing from this forum for about 3 months, and today, about 20 posts show up. Any ideas on why?

I gave up on email notifications long ago--Kalmbach has got something messed up with their forum software.

Which is not helped by the amount of bandwidth used up by WFH.

Today’s update:

Step 12, build the 90mm main gun tube

Step 13, build the mantlet 

Step 14, build the basic turret

I think in about 48 hours I should have the construction all done!

It's coming along nice Carlos.

Looking good Stik! 

Carlos,

Very nice progress! I'm looking forward to seeing some paint on this beast!

It's looking very good stik and can't wait to see the colorful art work on this one.

Just thinking about this colorful front art which actually defeats the OD's camo ability. I'm surprised the Army allowed such bright art work making it a very visible target for anti tank guns and other armor.  

Harold, Graysnake, Bruce, PJ, thanks guys! For an early DML/Dragon kit, it’s not bad at all. It certainly holds up well for its age...

plasticjunkie

Just thinking about this colorful front art which actually defeats the OD's camo ability. I'm surprised the Army allowed such bright art work making it a very visible target for anti tank guns and other armor.  

 

stikpusher

And supposedly the Chinese were superstitious about big cats, so there was a psychological warfare aspect as well. 

 

Very interesting facts. Smart idea to play with their heads.

plasticjunkie

 

 

stikpusher

And supposedly the Chinese were superstitious about big cats, so there was a psychological warfare aspect as well. 

 

 

 

 

 

Very interesting facts. Smart idea to play with their heads.

 

Who knows if it worked or not.... in any case it looked great!

Well last night was another online Zoom AMPS meeting. During the course of the meeting I worked on this kit and finished up the build work.

Steps 15 thru 19, adding all the turret fittings...

And with the turret on, the basic construction is finished!

now comes the fun part... the Tiger paint scheme!!!!

I'm watching Carlos, to see how you do the primer and paint.

Thanks Harold. I’m gonna black base the hull, especially the OD areas. Not sure how I’m gonna approach the turret yet due to the scheme. I have to ponder over the color scheme on there, as it’s most.y yellow with black and white tiger stripes. 

Nice work, you're making great progress. 

Looking forward to seeing how you do the yellow on the tiger face.  I thought about trying it on a Takom T29 but decided I didn't feel like the extra work and just went with olive drab all over. 

BTW I read somewhere, I don't remember now, that the tiger is considered a guardian spirit by the Koreans. So it seems the tiger face was also to boost moral in friendly troops. 

So I took a long pause on this trying to decide how I was going to approach painting the turret. Particularly if it was yellow or OD on top, and far around the rear the yellow went. So I looked for any photos that I could find of 6th Tank Btn. during this time frame. And after looking and looking again at them I noticed several things. Turret top color could be yellow or OD, but then afterlookng at many photos, particularly this one with many in it, some construction details appeared. They all did not have the right side turret stowage rack. Also many had a Browning M1919 .30 cal. placed into the standard .50 cal. pintle mount because the .50 had a second one installed over the gunners roof periscope for the commander to use. Lastly, there look to be grab handles welded onto the turret bustle sides.

So I removed the side rack, retextured that area with a grinding bit in my Dremel, added the grab handles, modified the original pintle mount to accept a .30 from my spares bin, and opened up the antenna mounts for some music wire antennas...

Before

After

And then yesterday I airbrushed on a base coat of Tamiya Flat Black in preparation for the painting

More to come soon...

That's lookin' real sharp Stik. 

Thanks M1! Next up, some OD...

Carlos, this is the point where I get a little nervous. With all your work on assembly and primer the finish is critical, but I know you have done this a hundred times.

Harold 

Carlos,

Are you going to do the black and white? Or just blackbase? Looking really good so far! 

Harold, black basing is still something that I’m getting the hang of. I’ve only done it maybe a half dozen times at most. But I’m confident that this will come out looking good.

Bruce, are you talking about using a white base under the yellow areas? I am thinking of doing that. But I don’t want the yellow too vivid.

stikpusher

Bruce, are you talking about using a white base under the yellow areas? I am thinking of doing that. But I don’t want the yellow too vivid.

 

That’s a technique that I’ve never seen or heard of before... very interesting... thanks for sharing  that! 

Carlos,

It's comes from the Spanish School of modeling Black & White Technique.

I didn't do fully what is described in the technique, but, i do like the results. It gives a non-camouflage base (American Olive Drab, Russian Green, and IDF Grey) some interest, on what is otherwise a bland base. 

I'll be doing this on the M1A1 I started building. 

Anyway, I like the progress on your M46, and I'm looking forward to how you weather this beast!

Good eye there on the storage rack. And she looks good in black!

I haven't tried the black and white technique yet. I generally just spray a couple of coats adding a little white to the OD as I move up the vehicle.

Also, for highlighting green paint jobs, use something like Dunkelgelb instead of white, as it does not impart a chalky look to the green and gives the paint more "life".

This is where the fun begins; look forward to color application Stik!

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’m not sure which tone if OD I want to go with... more brown or more green... decisions, decisions...

Real G

Also, for highlighting green paint jobs, use something like Dunkelgelb instead of white, as it does not impart a chalky look to the green and gives the paint more "life".

This is where the fun begins; look forward to color application Stik!

 

Hmmmm, I'll give the Dunkelgelb a whirl. Thanks!!! 

Well, after weeks of having this thing stare at me in all black on my workbench, mocking me, I had to add the OD. It did not go quite as intended... compressor problems, and finding out that Mission Models paints do NOT airbrush well when highly thinned... but overall I’m good with it so far...

maybe the yellow base for the tiger face tomorrow...

Yellow base for the stripes on now....

I think that I need to extend the yellow on the fender areas forward a bit...

stikpusher

Yellow base for the stripes on now....

 

 

 

I think that I need to extend the yellow on the fender areas forward a bit...

 

Harold

Wow! Is that yellow ever bright. I'm sure it'll get toned down eventually, but right now its stunning.

Hey Stik, how did you do the yellow?  It is a notoriously difficult color to lay down over other colors without extensive prep.  The M46’s yellow paint is solid looking!

I don't know how I missed this post, it's really cool.

25 or so posts just on track. Man.

Thinking about it, painting the yellow over OD in the field would probably face the same issues. It's gonna look like mud soon enough.

Th ARVNs did some of this stuff too, later.

In your photo of the group, doesn't the front tank have a canvas mantlet cover?

Bill

I have to agree, you laid that yellow down like a champ! Very well done!

Thanks guys. I’m pretty surprised at how vivid the yellow looks here, but I think part of that is due to lighting in my new photo booth and photo editing settings.

RG, I did zero prep work for the yellow over the OD. I just used Humbrol enamel, but that has a pretty strong pigment in there. Lots of light coats built up. And I think that since OD is basicly a mix of yellow and black, the yellow top color has something in that base to work with.

Bill, some of the 6th Tank Btn. had the canvas mantlet covers, and some did not. Just like some had the T84 rubber chevron track and others had the T80 steel chevron track. I’ve seen both in film footage and photos of the unit. I couldn’t find any photo of the turret/hull number for this tank to say either way for certain, so I’m taking the path of least resistance and going with what is in the kit.

I extended the yellow more forward on the fenders this afternoon...

Stik, I think you might have posted the wrong pic. Looks to me as though you didn't add more yellow. Anyways, it is looking really good.  

Keyserj

Stik, I think you might have posted the wrong pic. Looks to me as though you didn't add more yellow. Anyways, it is looking really good.  

 

Lol! Thanks. But no, that photo was done immediately after i painted the yellow and from a different angle. Just see how the yellow goes out to almost the front most stamping rib on the fender.

stikpusher

 

 

Keyserj

Stik, I think you might have posted the wrong pic. Looks to me as though you didn't add more yellow. Anyways, it is looking really good.  

 

 

 

 

Lol! Thanks. But no, that photo was done immediately after i painted the yellow and from a different angle. Just see how the yellow goes out to almost the front most stamping rib on the fender.

 

Harold

The angle really threw me off but I do see it now. 

Harold, thanks.

Keyser/John, no worries... as your quotee might say, “have a little faith baby...” 

I’ll let the new yellow parts cure overnight, then tomorrow I’m looking to get a start on the striping. I think that part is gonna be fun! 

And for anyone who would care to see 6th Tank Battalion in action, there are at around 7:25 in this newsreel.

Humbrol? I would wait at least 4-5 days.

Nah, I just waited overnite. I would have posted this yesterday but....

The day arrived for the part that I think most everyone following this project has been waiting to see... the Tiger stripes!!!

First I did some white stripes on the turret sides, as well as white on the co ax machine gun and gunners site housings. There are “eye” and “whisker” decals for the mantlet that I will add in a few days.

Then the black stripes onto the turret

Then I added black stripes onto the hull, as well as painting the front fender mudguards black. Looking at several photos of 6th Tank Battalion, I could not see any that had any white stripes on the hull. 

I’ll let the stripes dry overnight, then add a coat of Future tomorrow or the day after in preparation for the decals...

Man I love that scheme!!

Oh my stik, this is one of the coolest paint schemes ever. 

Right? I was so worried about not screwing this part up. I am very happy with the paint work now. Most every project has a point where it goes from “ehhh” to “oh yeahhhhh”. I just reached that point here.

stikpusher

And for anyone who would care to see 6th Tank Battalion in action, there are at around 7:25 in this newsreel.

 

Cool newsreel. 

Some cool thing s to see.  Like arty guys tossing 155 rounds to each other to feed theri SPG.

Some really good details to see on Easy 8s in threater.

Also, some realling interesting M16 MMG details, like how the guns are served, and the rack over the windshield for extra cal..50 cans.

stikpusher

 

 

 

 

I’ll let the stripes dry overnight, then add a coat of Future tomorrow or the day after in preparation for the decals...

 

Harold

Thanks guys! The painting is the fun part of this one!

I put on the decals yesterday. Not that many to do, but the mouth was a PITA. Dragon should have added a blurb on the instructions to add the tow hooks and tool rack, after the mouth decal is applied. So to anyone who decides to build this kit, leave those parts off until after the mouth decal is on.

Anyways....

and you can see the left lower corner of the mouth needs to be addressed. I’ll be doing touch up painting in the next few days... plus adding some bumper codes from my spares bin, which the kit decals do not include.

Thats looking really nice Carlos, great job adding those decals. Was the mouth one decal or was it split.

Thanks Bish. The mouth was a one piece “C” shaped decal open on the drivers side. I sliced a couple notches in it on the bottom for the tow hooks, but that did no work quite as intended.

It looks great Carlos. I didn't realize the mouth was a decal, I'll bet that was fun?

Harold

That looks awesome. It is a super BA looking tank. And I can see that the mouth would be a huge PITA. Well done.

BK

Looks fierce here too, Carlos.

Looks bad a$$ Carlos!  Very nice.

Harold, Brandon, John, and John, thank you. The mouth decal was the biggest challenge since the tracks... but far less so.

In between the touch up work on the mouth decal, I also started painting the TC figure. Base colors on now using Vallejo for the flesh and Humbrol Enamels for the uniform....plus some other acrylics on the boots and gloves.

I’m going to redo the wool neck scarf because I don’t like how the mixed color turned out... too green... not olive brown like the wool of that era.

stikpusher

Harold, Brandon, John, and John, thank you. The mouth decal was the biggest challenge since the tracks... but far less so.

In between the touch up work on the mouth decal, I also started painting the TC figure. Base colors on now using Vallejo for the flesh and Humbrol Enamels for the uniform....plus some other acrylics on the boots and gloves.

 

 

I’m going to redo the wool neck scarf because I don’t like how the mixed color turned out... too green... not olive brown like the wool of that era.

 

Harold

Thank you Harold. Yes, that’s the M1950 or M1943 field jacket and field pants. Those items were olive green cotton and if not identical, were very close in shade used on the 50’s & 60’s era sateen cotton fatigues. In this particular case I  used Hu 102 Army Green for the jacket and Hu 86 Light Olive for the pants. 

stikpusher

Yes, that’s the M1950 or M1943 field jacket and field pants. Those items were olive green cotton and if not identical, were very close in shade

From (potentially fickle) memory those were OG 96 per QMC, which to my eyeball is identical to the DoD OG 107 shade.

There were some AG-44 items in theater in the chaos of the back and forth over three years of the conflict.  I've never found a good out-of-the-bottle fro AG44, but it faded to a bunch of different hues in actual use.

I've seen those wool scarves in as many colors as you can find in a jar of olives--browner, greener, schwartzgrun, what have you.  So, there's a lot of leeway in depicting them.

US Army would not go to black leather until '67, but a dark brown polish was sued in the 50's to give a very "Hershey's" sort of color.  (And plenty of guys over-polished in black, too, especially on holsters--so they want "leather" hilghlighting.)

This build just gets better and better. 

Thanks Capn. I collected uniforms of that era, plus I have a bit left of my fathers old stuff, who was a draftee at that time. The olive green on the HBT fatigues was quite different from that of his sateen fatigues. And I have a Model 1943 and M1951 field jacket, with their slightly different colors. I used a very dark brown on the boots here and will highlight them with a lighter brown before the weathering. I repainted the wool scarf into a better shade and I’ll post it here shortly.

So I did the touch ups on the mouth. Not quite as elegant as the decal, but close to what you see in many photos.

And then I finished up the base colors on the TC figure. I really like the sculpting on this guy. The arms are just tacked in place for now.

More to come in the next few days...

Great work Carols... The uniform is perfect, and the tank face is just like you said it should be 'eating the tools'. One question, where is the machine gun barrel?

Harold

Wow, that turned out outstanding--track and TC both.

You really captured the pile cap, too--looks like the one I have, only not so old

That blet matches the 1952 one I have (other than mine is worn enough to have all the eyelets a bronzy sort of color from wear.

It's 88º her at 2100 here in Arlington, Texas and that figure makes me feel the cold.

Bravo

Harold and Capn, many thanks! The base colors are the easy part, the fun of washes and dry brush ahead. But this figure is so beautifully sculpted.

Harold, the hull MG barrel will be added soon. I did not want it in the way and potentially being broken off for the paint and decal work on the glacis. 

Capn, it’s a bit warmer here AZ at the moment, but pretty dry, so it feels good. And yeah, looking at him bundled up does bring back frigid winter memories. I painted the pistol belt with a color from the Vallejo Panzer Aces line, Canvas. It has just the right look for the old faded olive canvas cotton web gear. I really hope that  can get some work brass look on the buckle and eyelets. Gonna be a challenge...

CapnMac82, you and several other Army vets would know better than I, but I always thought the Army went to black leather from brown prior to Korea. About the same time they created the DoD and made the air force a separate service in '48. Certainly correct me if I'm wrong. I guess I've been under a mistaken impression for the last 55 years.

M1GarandFan

CapnMac82, you and several other Army vets would know better than I, but I always thought the Army went to black leather from brown prior to Korea. About the same time they created the DoD and made the air force a separate service in '48. Certainly correct me if I'm wrong. I guess I've been under a mistaken impression for the last 55 years.

 

After Korea. When the service uniform changed from OD to Army Green in the  late 50’s the boots and dress shoes were changed from brown to black. Elvis was drafted shortly after changeover. The new Specialist ranks were introduced around that time as well.

Yesterday I got the bumper codes on. Most photos of 6th Tank Battalion M46s during the Tiger phase show bumper codes. The tanks in the Battalion were numbered sequentially and the turret number on the kit decals is 1. So I went with HQ-1 out of my spares bin. The unit codes were from a VERY old Micro Scale sheet I had. Thank goodness for their decal film...

and I did find a photo of a 6th Tank Battalion M46 with a star on the infantry phone box on the back of the hull. An OD US Tank just isn’t right without a white star somewhere...

Let the weathering begin!

M1GarandFan

CapnMac82, you and several other Army vets would know better than I, but I always thought the Army went to black leather from brown prior to Korea. About the same time they created the DoD and made the air force a separate service in '48. Certainly correct me if I'm wrong. I guess I've been under a mistaken impression for the last 55 years.

 

https://www.ramstein.af.mil/News/Article-Display/Article/303979/why-so-blue-history-of-air-force-service-uniform/

I believe the U.S. Army went through a similar uniform transition from 1950 to 1951 because I found colored pictures of combat troops in Korea with brown boots and black boots. The problem here is the original photographs were black & white and color was added many years later.

Harold

Here is a rundown on US Army uniform transition during the 50s

https://olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_clothing_1950s.php

stikpusher

Here is a rundown on US Army uniform transition during the 50s

 

https://olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_clothing_1950s.php

 

Harold

At the beginning of the 1950s, the World War II double-buckle boot, revised in 1947, was still issued for field and work duty. By 1953, the Boots, Service, Combat, Russet M1948 (introduced in 1948) replaced the WW II boot. The new combat boot was 10 1/2 inches high with rubber sole, polished grain leather and cap toes. In 1958, the boot color was changed to black and remaining stocks of russet boots were dyed to match.

Yup, the boots were brown in Korea

Carlos & Harold

I stand corrected, sirs! Thanks for the link. It's very helpful.

Both the tank and the TC look awesome. 

I may have missed it, but where did you get the TC figure from?  He looks great.  As you know, it is hard to find figures from that period, esp. in cold weather gear.  With a head change, he could work for most of the Cold War (up through the late '70s - early '80s) as well.

Thank you Gino. The figure is by DEF resins. I picked it up from Sprue Brothers. You are so right about trying to find tank crew figures from that era.... extremely hard to find. It’s all WWII or late Cold War thru current for US tankers. I never even thought of a head swap, and yes if this guy is posed in a hatch, depending upon which type of helmet is on the head, he’d be great for up to the 80s.

It's been a while since I've poked around on this forum and I'm not dissapointed, Carlos.

Fantastic work thus far! Bring on the dirt!

Thanks Mike! I’m happy to hear that you like what you see.

During KW, 1950-53, the leather was generally no longer a red russet leather, but was a dark stained brown.  This spanned a lot of leather items, boots, holsters, bino cases and the like.

Now, from fickle memory, Army adopted black low quarters with the "pickle suit."  But the field gear stayed brown until during VN.  Which then started in a bunch of over-dying of existing leather, with mixed results.

SF & Ranger units started using black boots in the 60s, which may have started a trend.

The Sea Services had been using black for some times (other than avaiation personnel).

It can all be a muddle.

No doubt the USMC lagged one step behind.

Back to the Army, here's pop 1952.

I had a nice long detailed reply typed up, but when I went to get a photo and come back, the typical site FUBAR action wiped it out and logged me off.

Pathetic. 

CapnMac82

But the field gear stayed brown until during VN.  Which then started in a bunch of over-dying of existing leather, with mixed results.

SF & Ranger units started using black boots in the 60s, which may have started a trend.

 

Harold

  U.S. Army Paratrooper Jump Boots

Vietnam era Standard issue U.S. Army Boots

I wore Corcoran jump boots while in the navy in the late '70's. They fit better than the boondockers and they looked like they had steel toes which was starting to be a requirement back then. I couldn't wear steel toes due to a motorcycle accident and left foot then out of calibration.

HooYah Deep Sea

I wore Corcoran jump boots while in the navy in the late '70's. They fit better than the boondockers and they looked like they had steel toes which was starting to be a requirement back then. I couldn't wear steel toes due to a motorcycle accident and left foot then out of calibration.

 

Harold

Harold, those Corcoran jump boots look just like the ones in my closet that I bought in 1973 at the RAF Mildenhall BX. My original issue boots were too beat up to take a shine, and the Corcoran's were really comfortable.

M1GarandFan

Harold, those Corcoran jump boots look just like the ones in my closet that I bought in 1973 at the RAF Mildenhall BX. My original issue boots were too beat up to take a shine, and the Corcoran's were really comfortable.

 

stikpusher

 

Yes, either jump boots or the M-1948 boots mentioned in the Olive Drab article. Those had a capped toe also. 

I still have my Corcorans. But they could use a new heel and front sole. 

Great job there SP! The tiger face came out perfectly!!! 

I’m back to work on this one too! Over the weekend I applied and cleaned up an oil wash.

Love that SP! 

stikpusher

 

It turns out that making faces at your enemies as you enter into battle has been done for thousands of years. It is believed it serves two purposes, one is to put fear in the mind of your enemy and the other is to build your own confidence in battle. The traditional New Zealand Maori face Haka War look is the most recent example of this devil-demon-monster-dragon impression. It is intended to convey the idea that he will not only kill you, but that he will eat you too.

Harold

Gamera, Graysnake, Harold, thank you all for your kind words. I'm happy to hear that you guys like how this is turning out.

Harold, I do like the Korean War “tiger“ tanks. Such a unique and “look at me” bit of tank paint schemes. I am pretty sure that each tank was painted by its own crew, so that accounts for the variation in looks. Here is a link to a blog page with a good rundown on all the units involved.

https://mikesresearch.com/2019/02/24/operation-ripper-korea-1951/

That is really a very unique paint scheme indeed and the oil wash pops all the details really good. That is one of the coolest looking paint jobs I have ever seen on a tank.  

Thanks PJ. Some day down the road I’d like to do one of the Korean War E8 Sherman’s in the Tiger scheme also.

That is just too cool. Not sure I could even think of pulling this off. Awesome artwork for sure.

BK

BrandonK

That is just too cool. Not sure I could even think of pulling this off. Awesome artwork for sure.

BK

 

Thank you Brandon. Its not as hard as you think. Just take it in stages. Base color, then secondary colors.

Stik,

I just found this thread. Outstanding work there sir! I really like everything about it but especially the Tiger or Dragon paint job, very impressive.

I took the plunge this summer and built eight tanks to get my *** back. I’m not sure if I’ll post the picures, but I now know the path to the Dark Side... or Heavy Metal, whichever you prefer.

Steve

Sorry that I missed your reply earlier Steve.  Good to hear that your building some armor. Hopefully youve done more since you posted that message!

As for me, I’m working on getting this one wrapped up soon. I don’t want to jinx myself by saying more than that. I’ve started putting stowage on the beast. Photos show some unit tanks with a improvised rack on the left fender for holding ammo cans, so I scratched one up from rod and strip styrene, and filled it with some .30 and .50 ammo cans.

I also began adding soft stowage onto the turret and hull. The right side is almost done. I’m trying 5 minute epoxy for attaching the stowage so I don’t get any fogging like with CA. I used heavy foil for the pack straps. I need to go back and touch up the paint that flaked off when I bent the straps over the attachment points.

I know I'm late to this show, but that is some impressive work stik, very authentic. The  wonderful build quality only adds to the angry tiger. I look forward to seeing your mean face sherman in the future.

Ben

She's coming along fantastic SP! Love the storage and have seen photos of tanks with the extra ammo cans from the Korean War so it's a really nice touch there.

Plus the tiger paint looks even better close up!

Drums, Gamera, Graysnake, thank you one and all for your compliments. Stay tunes for more updates over the next few days.

I love what you've done with this build, Carlos. 

The extra ammo cans a re a nice touch and the extra gear too. Pardon me, but may I suggest another highlight layer on your packs? They tonally blend poorly and some extra highlights would make them stand out a bit better.

That should help score you some extra points at the event. 

M. Brindos

I love what you've done with this build, Carlos. 

The extra ammo cans a re a nice touch and the extra gear too. Pardon me, but may I suggest another highlight layer on your packs? They tonally blend poorly and some extra highlights would make them stand out a bit better.

That should help score you some extra points at the event. 

 

Carlos,

I love what you've done with this model.  I was impressed with your painstaking approach and hard work on the tracks.  It might have been easier to use Friulmodel metal tracks, which are incredibly easy.  Great job!

Bill

 

M. Brindos

I love what you've done with this build, Carlos. 

The extra ammo cans a re a nice touch and the extra gear too. Pardon me, but may I suggest another highlight layer on your packs? They tonally blend poorly and some extra highlights would make them stand out a bit better.

That should help score you some extra points at the event. 

 

M. Brindos

I love what you've done with this build, Carlos. 

The extra ammo cans a re a nice touch and the extra gear too. Pardon me, but may I suggest another highlight layer on your packs? They tonally blend poorly and some extra highlights would make them stand out a bit better.

That should help score you some extra points at the event. 

 

Thanks! And I have not yet done highlghlights on the packs... that will be done soon.

Today was adding more bits of stowage here and there

Just need to do some touch ups on the foil straps.

I'm sorry for presuming you were done with them. 

I'd also like to make mention of the exhaust system discoloration. That's a nice detail!

Thank you Mike. And no worries about the stowage stuff. I tend to keep my narrative minimal during the construction descriptions.

Last stowage items added to the fenders.... added buckles to the jerry can tie down straps... touch up paint on the foil straps

Flat coat next... then dry brushing and weathering...

Beautiful hand painted stripes Stik!!

She's coming along beautifully SP!! 

Chad and Gamera, thank you. I’ll get more done later today. It’s in the mid 30’s out right now, so I’m waiting for it to warm up a bit .

I was able to get several hours in at the bench today. I swear that I spent more time selecting and stirring paints than I did actual drybrushing. 

Here are the results

One last bit of detail painting to add, then I can begin final weathering.

The dry-brushing looks good, love how it came out on the storage!

Thanks Gamera. It’s finally getting to the end of the line on this one!

WOW!

Thanks Mike. Stowage looking better to you now?

There is an M-26 painted like this at the Americqn Heritage Museum of Tanks in Hudson, Mass. She really stands out.

Bill

Interesting that they would paint a M26 in these markings....

I am calling this one done. This is the Dragon M46 kit in the markings of 6th Tank Battalion during Operation Ripper in Korea, Spring 1951.These are probably the most colorful unit markings worn in combat by any tank unit. I modified the kit by repositioning some turret external fittings, leaving off the turret right side stowage rack, adding some turret grab rails, a left side stowage rack on the fender, and a .30 cal. Browning based upon photos of the units tanks in Korea. Paints used are Mission Models and Humbrol for the main colors. Towage items are from my stash and spares bin.

I still need to finish the TC figure and come up with a base for this one.

Comments and critiques are welcome.

Stowage and weathering look fabulous!

You'll definitely get some attention at the competition. Oh, definitely.

Yeah WOW!!! Great work! Love the dirt and dust but all-around a fantastic job!!! 

Great job on the build stik! It is pretty amazing how some dust and weathering can make a model look even better!

Thanks guys!

Mike, when this gets where it’s going, it will be one of many. And there are better modelers in the group...

Gamera & John, the  weathering is the fun part. It’s always a blast to make these look like they’ve been out in their natural habitat.

Just really outstanding job, Stik. Love the mud. It looks perfect to me.

Tony & M1, I’m happy to hear that you like this one.  Thank you.

MAN that turned out good Carlos!! Bravo my friend. Well done!!!

Thank you Joe. Everything came together just right in the end with this one.

Wow, outstanding art work indeed. 

Nice one Stik!  That tiger looks "Grrrrrrreat!"

PJ & RG many thanks. Real, give Tony my regards, I’m overjoyed that it meets his standards

Well!

" Tanks" for a set of Photos of a very well done Armor piece! I love the markings and the weathering, as someone already said, " GRReat!"