Tank antennae?

Music wire or thin brass rodswork great. Although they do lack the taper shape of modern US antennas

gpat5570

the idea of stretching hot plastic over a candle..

It's not complicated--any umber of videos out there on the how-to of it.

The hard part is the timing--the when to pull, how much, and how quickly.  Those take practice, a lot of practice.  Especially if you want a taper of a certain diameter instead of a straight length.

A "tea light" candle is generally best, having a clear area on the workbench is also useful.

You will make a great pile of curlicues, busted threads, gossamer bits, and the like developing this skill. 

I find it helps to have checked my references and scaled those out as somehting I can have on the desk.  So, a 102" long antenna that tapers from 3/8 to 1/8" scales out to be 2.19" long and 0.0107" at its base, and 0.0035" at the tip.  Setting calipers or a micrometer to that setting is very helful.  At least to me.

Now, gitar strings, stiff wire, even synthetic paint brush bristles can work.

Stretching sprue is tricky, but I found a technique online that works for me.

I do the usual- create toxic fumes by holding a section over a flame.

Wait until it catches on fire and the two pieces separate and form blobs.

Blow out flames.

Inhale deeply (NO!)

Mash the two blobs together and then pull apart.

I don't know why, but it's been the best for me.

Bill

I knew a very accomplished modeler that used cat whiskers.  Granted better for a whip.  He would harvest his cats bed for shed whiskers.  No plucking involved. 

..don't have a cat...hmm, the neighbour does though....LOL

Shed whiskers work extremely well. Flexible and tough. I wish I could find more of them. My cat likes to keep his lol.

I have also used whiskers in the past.  Friends collect them for me. 

I also use stitching wire.  Rigid and moldable it is also galvanized so it takes paint well.  I was able to get an old spool from work.  If you have a print shop nearby, they will usually toss spools out when they get low.  Low to them is 20 feet of antenna for me!

stikpusher

Music wire or thin brass rodswork great. Although they do lack the taper shape of modern US antennas

 

The first picture is a 1/35 scale, 3 section antenna mounted on an M4A3 Sherman. It is as accurate as you can get in scale modeling. Notice the taper is barely visible and there are three section that fit one inside another, I know because I purchased this antenna for my model.

The next picture is a 1/35 scale Jeep with a music wire antenna. At arm's length the antenna look almost the same as the tapered antenna without connecting furrows.

Now look at the Challenger antenna. Can you see the taper?

You can purchase music wire in different diameters at almost any model shop that deals in model railroads or radio controlled cars, it's been used for years in the modeling industry. Caution: use heavy electrical pliers to cut music wire, it will damage normal sprue cutters. It also requires CA glue to bond with plastic, same as you would use to glue photo-etched parts to plastic.

Harold

Here is the vehicle antenna used with the current generation of SINCGARS radios. The taper is quite pronounced, and a protective cap is supposed to be attached to the tip as here. The previous generations of vehicle mount FM radios used a similar antenna type. It looked the same but was slightly smaller in diameter.

There is no taper on modern British antenna's. They are sectional, on most vehicles there are usually 2 sections to make up a standard antenna, and it doesn't matter which way round you connect them. Basically, there is no top, you can just keep adding as many sections as you like. You can get a good close up on this pic of a Chally 2.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Challenger_2_Tank_Live_Firing_During_Exercise_MOD_45155718.jpg

I use the carbon fibre rod sold by Accurate Armour, its not cheap but you do get plenty out of it. I have already made 9 antennas for 35th vehicles and have enough left for a few more.

 https://accurate-armour.com/aa-products/135th-accessories/a094

One other thing about music wire. It's steel and it will rust if you don't clean it well and then paint it.

Bish

There is no taper on modern British antenna's. They are sectional, on most vehicles there are usually 2 sections to make up a standard antenna, and it doesn't matter which way round you connect them. Basically, there is no top, you can just keep adding as many sections as you like. You can get a good close up on this pic of a Chally 2.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Challenger_2_Tank_Live_Firing_During_Exercise_MOD_45155718.jpg

 

I use the carbon fibre rod sold by Accurate Armour, its not cheap but you do get plenty out of it. I have already made 9 antennas for 35th vehicles and have enough left for a few more.

 https://accurate-armour.com/aa-products/135th-accessories/a094

 

 

 

The carbon fiber rod material from Accurate Armor is .25mm or .010" which in 1/35 scale is approximately 3/8" (.0107") diameter. The smallest music wire I have been able to purchase is .36mm (.0142") which just under 1/2" diameter in 1/35 scale. I could not find a specification for the diameter of modern tank antenna, but from experience with military radios I am comfortable it is right between 3/8" and 1/2". So, I will purchase this carbon fiber rod material for my next project.

Thank you again Bish for the information.

Harold

Your welcome harold. I don't know what the postage will be like across the water. They do sometimes take a while to get things posted, but then i often order resin parts some of which are made to order. But they do come through and i have had good customer service from them.

This is how the rod looks when fitted.

Bish, these models are very nicely done.

Bish

Your welcome harold. I don't know what the postage will be like across the water. They do sometimes take a while to get things posted, but then i often order resin parts some of which are made to order. But they do come through and i have had good customer service from them.

This is how the rod looks when fitted.

 

 

Harold

Thats not bad.

If you want modern British stuff they are a must. I shoudl be starting my Academy Warrior in a couple of weeks and will be useing several of their sets as well as kit.

Their resin kits are not bad either, that land Rover Snatch is one of theirs, as is the MILAN on top of the 432.

If you model WW2 German equipment, you should know that they didn't use "whip" type aerials.  Their antennae were rigid, tapered, hollow rods.  They shouldn't be shown as bent (unless damaged).

I like using stretched sprue for several uses like antennas, rods, weld marks on armor, as a filler in thin narrow gaps, building jigs for holding parts etc. It's very easy and takes a little practise but well worth the effort. It's cheap and you get tons of sprues in the kits to experiment with. I have even used it as aerial wire on planes and railings on ships.

plasticjunkie

I like using stretched sprue for several uses like antennas, rods, weld marks on armor, as a filler in thin narrow gaps, building jigs for holding parts etc. It's very easy and takes a little practise but well worth the effort. It's cheap and you get tons of sprues in the kits to experiment with. I have even used it as aerial wire on planes and railings on ships. 

Second that.  Stretching sprue is an old-school plastic modeling skill, and you're right, it's easy, takes a little practice, but once you get it, it's a valuable skill to have.

Glad you like it Harold. Not sure if they have changed the packaging or if that is for overseas customers. My last order came in one long piece in a cardboard tube.