Oh! I can't imagine it will take too much to detail that. Since most of it will be hidden.

Another attention grabber, Carlos. You got me.

Welcome aboard Mike! The kit is molded so that the side engine deck grilles can be positioned open, but not the center grills over the cooling fans. So obviously I need to concentrate my efforts there. 

Neat! I had that kit waaaaaay back in the '80s. Remember I made a mess of mine. Looking forward to seeing you work your magic on her. 

I am really looking forward to this build!  I have the Testors version that I found on eBay for $3.00 in which all the parts had been removed from the sprues.  I will follow your build intensely!

Bill

That’s $3 well spent Bill. But I can’t imagine all of the parts being taken off the sprues. There some tiny handles and other such fittings. Not to mention similar looking parts on the suspension. YIKES!

Thanks for following, but just be forewarned that I will be deviating from the kit instructions on the turret to backdate this to an earlier production model using parts from my spares collection.

Carlos,

That is precisely what I am hoping to see!

Bill

Allright then Bill, I hope that you enjoy this project.

Today’s update: I finished steps 3 & 4, adding the shocks, road wheels, and return rollers to the suspension.

Next session will be where I start dealing with the upper hull and upgrading tne engine compartment.

Looking good Stik. 

Thank you Grey. I’m off to a good start here.

Carlos,

Nice start . . . By the way, shortly after purchasing my kit, I was able to verify that all parts are present, and I put each part in very small zip lock bags with the part number written on the bag.  So, there is some organization.

Bill

Nice, all that running gear is probably the most tedious part of the model. Good to see you've got that behind you. 

Your last Patton tank was impressive stik! Can't wait to see how this build turns out.

Carlos,

I missed your previous Pattons.  I will search for them. I'll bet they were great!

Bill

Bill, I can just picture such madness with all the parts cut off the sprues. Who does things like that? The potential for parts mix up is big! I’m glad to hear that you have some organization to the mess.

Gamera, yeah, the running gear is a bit tedious, but not too bad on this beastie. And pretty familiar i might add, after building multiple M60s, M48s, and M26s for years and years. The M46 that I built last year was just a refresher.

John, I’m glad that you liked the last Patton build and I hope that you like this one also! At least this time I’m doing my research before I get to the steps where I need it! Lol!

So today was spent doing steps 5, 6, & 7. Although step 6, adding parts to the underside of the upper hull, and 7, finishing the fender items and attaching the engine and upper hull to the lower hull, I only did partially due to my choice to upgrade the engine compartment.

I am also backdating the kit to an early production model, so I had to swap out the driver and assistant driver hatches periscope brush guards for the older type used, rather than what comes with the kit. Fortunately I have some in my spares bin.

and lastly I started detailing the engine part that comes with the kit. I only did the transmission section today.

And this is what you can see thru the open grilles

More to come in a few days...

Looks like your headed in the right direction as the detail you added in the engine bay look really nice so far.

I see that you added all of the roadwheerls before painting the rubber. I see other people paint them prior to assembly. In your opinion, which is better and why, or is it depending on the model?

Also, thanks for sharing the build with all of us....

Ben

Thanks Ben. These roadwheels rotate on their axles, so painting the tires will not be a problem before I add the tracks.

As far as painting the road wheels before or after installation goes, that depends upon the model and on what my finishing look will be.

Looking good Stik. I recall seeing you post something about a mechanic figure in the latest acquisitions thread. Are you gonna do a maintence scene for this build?

Keyserj

Looking good Stik. I recall seeing you post something about a mechanic figure in the latest acquisitions thread. Are you gonna do a maintence scene for this build?

 

John, that’s kinda what I had in mind. Have that figure kneeling on the engine deck by the open grilles looking in. A simple base to look like a motor pool hardstand. 

Easily one of my favorite kits from my college years. Who loved the Testors yellow boxed kits like I did? Those instructions with history and detailing guide were the best!

I did get the Takom one.

Yup, those yellow box Testors kits are great. Good decals, good clear instructions, and usually a nice kit at the end of the build. I can see why you like this one Rob, it’s a fine kit.

stikpusher

Yup, those yellow box Testors kits are great. Good decals, good clear instructions, and usually a nice kit at the end of the build. I can see why you like this one Rob, it’s a fine kit.

This kit (1978) and Italeri's Leopard 1A4 (1977) are thought of as two of their best armor kits and each is still a respectable build 45 years later. And have only been surpassed in recent years.

Stik the wires and hoses really add some zest here. I bet It'll gives it a really nice 3 dimensional effect too through those engine grates.  

That is really looking good stik. These older Testors kits are nice. I have a couple from the 80s in the yellow and black box and are very nicely detailed. I like what you did with the electrical wiring details.

It's interesting . . . Italeri 1/35 armor kits are generally maligned but the old Testor's kits were "nice kits" or "great".  They are one and the same, except for those kits that Italeri have redesigned or retooled.  I love them.

Rob, the Italeri Leopard kits are still considered by leopardclub.ca as being among the best on the market, with disappointing reviews of the newer Meng and Hobby Boss offerings. I just finished their Leopard 1A2 kit and am  very satisfied.  There are minor detail problems as with any kit, but it built into a very respectable A2.

Bill

Chad and Steve, thank you. I figure two more bench sessions on upgrading and plumbing the engine compartment, then a paint session, and it’ll be all ready to install and close up.

Bill I agree. I love the old Italeri armor kits, and their Testors boxing’s. I’ve always had good results with them. 

plasticjunkie

That is really looking good stik. These older Testors kits are nice. I have a couple from the 80s in the yellow and black box and are very nicely detailed. I like what you did with the electrical wiring details.

warshipguy

It's interesting . . . Italeri 1/35 armor kits are generally maligned but the old Testor's kits were "nice kits" or "great".  They are one and the same, except for those kits that Italeri have redesigned or retooled.  I love them.

Rob, the Italeri Leopard kits are still considered by leopardclub.ca as being among the best on the market, with disappointing reviews of the newer Meng and Hobby Boss offerings. I just finished their Leopard 1A2 kit and am  very satisfied.  There are minor detail problems as with any kit, but it built into a very respectable A2.

Bill

It is virtually impossible to classify Testors yellow box kits as "all nice" or "all bad" since they were all reboxes of other companies' kits. Their armor kits could be Peerless Max from the 50s or Italeri kits from the 70s & 80s. There were even some Fujimi car and plane kits I believe.

The Peerless Max armor kits were okay, just old. They included the M3 White Scout Car, the WC Dodge series kits, GMC 6x6s, Chevrolet tractors and the 105 mm howitzer.

The original Italeri kits like the Leopard, M24, M47, Willys Jeep, Puma, Crusader, etc. were not bad for the time.

Yeah I really like the added plumbing in the engine compartment. 

Think I've said it before- my first 1/35th kit was the Testor's yellow and black box Panzer IV F/G. Waaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy back in the dawn ages when I had much more hair but no internet... 

Guess I'll have to put my two cents in on the yellow Testors boxes as well. They were some of my favorite kits through the 90's. My most memorable being both 1/72 scale kits of the Stuka and a Spitfire Vb with the clipped wingtips.

I also have a fond memory of the 1/48 Gee Bee racer that I desperately wanted to paint in yellow and black like the one from the movie "The Rocketeer". Unfortunately I never could get a good finish with gloss yellow Testors enamel and a hairy stick, lol.

****

I love what you've done with the plumbing! I'm eager to see it painted.

Thanks Mike. I've been looking hard at photos of the engine and surrounding items to figure out the next phase of gizmology in that area.

The Rocketeer GB sounds very cool. You can still build it. Im sure that you've gotten better with applying yellow.

"The Rocketeer" One of my favorite all-time movies, and a great paint job on that GeeBee.

stikpusher

Thanks Mike. I've been looking hard at photos of the engine and surrounding items to figure out the next phase of gizmology in that area.

The Rocketeer GB sounds very cool. You can still build it. Im sure that you've gotten better with applying yellow.

 

Lol, yes I've become much better at applying yellow.

I have never successfully painted yellow coats with Testor's enamels, or using any brand of paint.  Yellow is a difficult color for me!

Bill

warshipguy

I have never successfully painted yellow coats with Testor's enamels, or using any brand of paint.  Yellow is a difficult color for me!

Bill

 

Yellow tends to airbrush ok, it just takes more applications. Ive had good luck with Testors, but better results with Humbrol, like on my M46 here.

warshipguy

I have never successfully painted yellow coats with Testor's enamels, or using any brand of paint.  Yellow is a difficult color for me!

Bill

 

Try spraying a desert tan or sand color first, Bill. That's how I've been able to get good results with yellow since trying it that way. It will be a lot less troublesome with a base layer of a similar tonal value and you won't have to build up the color as much to achieve a good coverage. Just make sure you don't use any gloss for that undertone color of desert yellow or tan.

That should help you out.

Thanks, gentlemen!  I will try these recommendations soon.  Carlos, that is a beautiful M-46! FYI . . . there is such an M-46 (with Tiger stripes) at the American Heritage Museum in Hudson, MA.

Bill

Thank you Bill. I hope that you saw my comp,eyed M46 last month on here. BTW, I airbrushed on the Insignia Yellow directly over the Olive Drab, no coat of white or whatever underneath to brighten it up. I suspect that the Yellow goes so well over OD is because OD is supposed to made from a mix of black and yellow, so yellow is part of OD's pigments.  

Andy of Andy's Hobby Headquarters once mixed Olive Drab on video by mixing black and yellow. It works.

Bill

I have to agree strongly with Mike, tan or sand as an undercoat makes yellow cover FAR better. 

I still hate spraying the stuff but the undercoat makes it at least workable. 

So the last couple of days I've been working on the engine. Yesterday I cut off Italeri’s sorry excuse for the auxiliary motor and generator

Which looks nothing like the real thing

And I also sanded off all the incorrect detail molded on the oil coolers, and drilled in holes in preparation for plumbing lines.

Today I measured and cut lengths of styrene rod to make up the ignition harness for the cylinder banks, then glued them in place. I also created a section of the right side hull fuel tank that goes under the auxiliary motor

Then a test fit into the hull with the top on to show what will be visible

I still have a couple more sessions worth of work to add more details in there.

The extra effort going into the rear deck area is paying off big dividends. All that scratch work looks amazing stik. 

Yeah, that looks really cool! 

PJ and Gamera, thank you. It's starting to get to the picture in my minds eye.

So today’s session of plumbing the engine was longer. But it feels like there is less to show. It was lots of trimming, fitting, drilling, and bending to get the stuff in place. And I added an oil filler tube and in the corner between the oil cooler and transmission housing on the left rear.

And the view from each side

Tomorrow I plan to work on the oil coolers and add in the carburetors and ducting, since it should be raining here all day.

oh Mr. Rabbit!   

So today’s session has to be broken up, I have so much planned. First off I’m using some sort of idea wheel mounts and sections of sprue here to create the carburetors and intake manifolds 

So quite a while later of sanding and filing to resemble what I want and make it fit, I had one completed

And then I added the air ducting from the air cleaner to the carburetor.

Now to finish the other side and get to work on the oil coolers...

My final update for today.

I finished up the carburetors and intake ducting, detailed the oil coolers, and finished the plumbing in those areas.

I still need to add the auxiliary motor and battery lead cables. Next session.

So today I finished the final bits of work in the engine compartment. Using a jeep engine, I turned it into a two cylinder auxiliary motor

then I added the lead line for it, and the compartment fixed fire extinguisher nozzle and feed line

so now the power pack has gone from this

to this

painting to take place over the next few days...

Very nice.  The engine/transmission area is looking great.

Thank you. Now I will step away from this for a couple of days before I dive into the painting.

And the painting begins. Today I airbrushed on a coat of gray Tamiya primer overall followed by Tamiya white primer on the areas that will be white. I’ll let it dry overnite, then start actual painting tomorrow.

Carlos,

Very impressive work!

Bill

Thank you Bill. At least now all of the Frankenstein work doesn't look so Frankensteinish... lol

That's a thousand percent improvement!!! *

* More or less and rounded off. 

Lol! Thanks Gamera. In hindsight I might have approached the add ons in a slightly different manner, but I'm happy with the look.

I’ve got all the base colors on the power pack now. Just need a wash and then I can install it and get the hull assembly completed.

Looks good, as you say all it needs now is little oil and grease staining. 

Stik this is truly inspiring work. A wonderful WIP to read.

Gamera & Dodgy, thank you. I'm happy to hear that you guys like this.

That's some really nice scratch building there!

Mike

Thank you Mike. It's been a fun learning experience to do this.

Nice work Stik. This engine/transmission upgrade is really looking good.

That engine is looking amazing. 

Tiger & Grey Snake, thank you.

Wash on and cleaned up, then power pack installed.

and what will be visible.... 

Time to get this one moving forward past this stage.

It's coming along great.

Yeap, she's coming along very nicely! 

Rob, Gino, and Gamera, thank you guys.

Today I got the upper hull glued in place. Starting to look like a tank now!

 I need to deal with one seam on the bottom rear and then I can add all of the last little bits to complete the hull

Carlos,

She's beautiful!

Bill

Thanks Bill. I'm happy with how it's coming along so far.

That engine is looking spectacular!

Thank you John. First time that I've ever tried that sort of thing on a tank. Normally you can't see that area. 

The completed power pack is very convincing, well executed. I have a HobbyBoss set from their M26 that I keep thinking I want to use somehow, somewhere.....

Thanks RB. Not sure what else you can do with that M26 power pack. The M26 used the same engine as the M4A3. I'm not sure about the transmission. But that changed with the M46, which was essentially a re engined M26A1. The M46, M47, and M48 prior to the A3 shared the same power pack.

It's great that you can still see a lot of that engine. All of that nice work won't go to waste!

Mopar Madness

It's great that you can still see a lot of that engine. All of that nice work won't go to waste!

 

Yes indeed! It's nice that Italeri gave such an option.

Yes, very cool you can see all that work you put in there! 

Lookin great Stik. Nothing worse than putting in a lot of work only to have it lost when you do the close up.

Dodgy

Lookin great Stik. Nothing worse than putting in a lot of work only to have it lost when you do the close up.

 

Thanks Dodgy. I do have another of these to build one day. And I can say with certainty that one will simply have the engine compartment closed up and be in a more "operational" look.

Back in the saddle on this one today

I added the small bits to the rear of the hull

and began adding the small bits to the front of the hull

Not much longer until hull construction is done...

Italeri was always known for it's "small bits".  You, sir, are doing well with them.

Bill

warshipguy

Italeri was always known for it's "small bits".  You, sir, are doing well with them.

Bill

 

Thanks Bill. Yes, Italeri loves the small bits. Each headlight is a separate piece, as is their single mount piece, followed by their brush guards. The infantry phone box on the rear hull plate actually has a seperate hand piece, the commo junction box, a flap cover, and (again) a separate handle piece. It's a shame that area didn't fit into my end set up. All it needs is a wire line. It would look good modeled in the open position, just needing the latch work mechanism added to to inner side of the armored cover.

Looking very nice.

Thanks GS. I finally finished adding all of the small bits to the hull today. Now I can move on to the turret and adding the cast armor texture to the hull.

I finally finished all the basic construction on the hull. It was pointed out to me that the hull attachment point for the rear fenders was inaccurate. So I modified them to look more like the real thing.

And I added all of the little bits to the front of the hull

Now I just need to add the cast armor texturing and casting marks to the hull

Those extra details look fantastic.

Thank you PJ! Stay tuned for more in the days ahead.

WOO HOO!!! Superb job!!! 

Thank you Gamera! I'm starting to think that this one might be completed in the not too distant future.

Small progress on the turret. Over the past few days I assembled the main gun, sanded the seams smooth then installed it into the turret bottom

And today I airbrushed the turret interior white...

I just need to paint the breech block steel, sand off the paint on the surfaces to be glued, and assemble the turret halves... then this will start looking like a TANK!

Carlos,

This is already looking like a tank! I am very impressed!

Bill

Thank you Bill! But having a turret is when a tank really starts looking like a TANK!

Looking good Stik!

Thank you CB!

Well, I just had to forge ahead this morning....

Breech block painted steel. Not sure if it’s accurate or not for the M47, but I like the look, and I’ve seen it before on other types. Besides, the turret hatches will be closed and no one will see it...

Then I glued the upper and lower turret halves together

and well, I just had to fit it on the hull

Now

Next up, adding all the little bits to the turret before the cast armor texturing

stikpusher

 

Breech block painted steel. Not sure if it’s accurate or not for the M47, but I like the look, and I’ve seen it before on other types. Besides, the turret hatches will be closed and no one will see it...

 

 

Then I glued the upper and lower turret halves together

 

 

and well, I just had to fit it on the hull

 

 

Now

it looks like a tank!

 

Next up, adding all the little bits to the turret before the cast armor texturing

 

Looks great.

Thanks PJ! I can finally see the end project look now in my minds eye.

So more work on the turret this week. Firstly I puttied up the points where the cargo rails attach, since I won’t be using the kit parts. I also added some very thin rod styrene along the seam line where the turret halves go together to replicate the weld seam on the real turret. Today I sanded the putty smooth and using some “hotter” plastic cement and my finger nail to texture the weld seam bead.

Excellent progress and thanks for sharing. Can't wait for the painting and finishing stages.  What will be your approach to weathering?

I like to use a simple three step modulation on US Olive drab vehicles with the last modulation zenithal...then the weathering to depict my subject and its environment.  It's funny, none of my armored vehicles look the same when it comes to weathering...because of the varied subjects and photos I use in their rendition.

Oh wow, somehow I missed all your turret updates. She's coming along nicely! 

Thanks guys! HDM, I'm pretty old school in my approach usually. Pin washes and dry brushing work quite well for me. In this case, the tank is going to be in "motor pool" condition, so minimal dirt and such. I haven't decided yet if I am going to black base or not before I apply the base OD. But it's not gonna be in field condition like the M46 that I finished up just before New Years.

Gamera, I'm happy to hear that your caught up now. Stay tuned for more progress reports...

Sounds great

Yesterday I added on the early style grab rails on the turret sides using parts from my spares bin.

Now I just need to add the rod frame type guards on the commander’s and gunner’s sights and the backdating of the turret will be completed. Next up, cast armor texture.

Coming along very nicely! 

Thanks again Gamera. I took a day away from this one today and worked on another project. Tomorrow I'll get more done.

A little more progress to post. Over on Armorama, it was pointed out to me that the turrets had some external “dimples” welded into the armor where the gun trunnions attach to the turret sides. So I cut some small pieces of tube styrene and glued them into the appropriate spots

Then I sanded them to a more scale thickness, doused them with liquid cement, and gave a bit of weld texture around the edges with a toothpick.

Now I can proceed to adding the cast armor texture where needed... nearly all of the turret and much of the front and rear hull...

She's lookin' good! 

Thank you Gamera. I'm getting lots of helpful advice elsewhere and trying to incorporate it here if I get it before it's too late.

One more update- I finished adding the cast armor texture a bit more rapidly than I thought that I would using Mr Surfacer and a Microbrush. 

and a couple close ups

it should look good under a coat of paint...

This will be my last update on this until next week. Have plans for the weekend, so I won’t get any bench time.

I noticed you haven't added the TC's and Gunners periscope guards yet, and I believe there is a light casting texture to the main gun mantlet.

I'm loving what you've got going on.

M. Brindos

I noticed you haven't added the TC's and Gunners periscope guards yet, and I believe there is a light casting texture to the main gun mantlet.

I'm loving what you've got going on.

 

Thanks Mike.

Yes, I still have some small detail parts such as those to add to the turret. And since I'm backdating this build to an early production model, I have to use parts from my spares for the periscope brush guards, not the kit parts. You are correct in the mantlet being cast, but I'm going to add a dust cover using tissue, so that cast texture won't be visible. It made no sense to me to add cast texture to an area that will be covered up.

Stick, your modifications are splendid. Have a safe and happy easter weekend.

DRUMS01

Thank you Drums! You have a happy Easter as well!

stikpusher

 

 

M. Brindos

I noticed you haven't added the TC's and Gunners periscope guards yet, and I believe there is a light casting texture to the main gun mantlet.

I'm loving what you've got going on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Mike.

Yes, I still have some small detail parts such as those to add to the turret. And since I'm backdating this build to an early production model, I have to use parts from my spares for the periscope brush guards, not the kit parts. You are correct in the mantlet being cast, but I'm going to add a dust cover using tissue, so that cast texture won't be visible. It made no sense to me to add cast texture to an area that will be covered up.

 

I did honestly forget that you're back dating this one. But with a mantlet cover, you're absolutely right. I'd probably have done it and then remembered that I was going to cover it up lol.

I hear ya Mike! But I've already done a good bit of work that is hardly visible in the engine compartment, so no need to dive deeper on that sort of thing...

Well, the back dating of the kit is now complete. I added the wire cage style brush guards to the commander’s and gunner’s periscopes, modified the sledge to reverse its positioning, and then added the hatch handles, rangefinder housing lifting eyes, and rear turret stowage bin. 

All I need to do now is add the mantlet dust cover and armor foundry casting marks

Again, very cool! 

Thank you Gamera.

Wow this build sure does look more like a tank compared to when I last saw it! Really great to see it start to come together.

Thank you John. After a delay of three weeks, and mishap speed bump when I did resume work back in that time I finally have some progress...

Monday and back in action with this one. I added some Archer raised resin decals casting marks to the turret and hull. We shall see how they look under a coat of paint soon.

Yeah, these are for a Sherman, but most likely only a M47 fanatic would know that they are not proper for a Patton

Nice to see you back on this.

Rob & Gino might know about the casting numbers but I had no idea.

Thanks Gamera. Gino has been one among several over on Armorama advising me on how to improve this build. The casting marks being one such piece of advice.

Well, another day, another update: 

I found one more casting mark in some photos over the bow gunners position, so I added another casting mark decal. Some tanks had ‘em, some didn’t. But I figured why not for mine. And then later I created the dust cover for the mantlet using white glue and tissue paper.

So next I have to come up with all the little clamps that hold the dust cover in place around the edges...

Looks good!!!

I tend to put the dust covers on last but what you're doing here makes more sense. I'll have to alter my constrution sequence the next time I build something with the mantlet cover.

Yesterday I finally got around to making the brackets to hold down the mantlet dust cover

Almost ready for paint now. I just need to add a couple of things first.

Thank you sir. I think the same of the Italeri Leopard 1A4 for 80's builds. It's a good kit that holds up well and just needs a little assistance. 

Your M-47 is excellent!  By the way, I love the Italeri Leopard 1 series!

Bill

warshipguy

Your M-47 is excellent!  By the way, I love the Italeri Leopard 1 series!

Bill

 

Remember, I'm talking early to mid 1980s here, but the Leopard II was better than the other option for a front line NATO tank, the M1/M1A1 Abrams kits by Esci. I built many of those kits for fellow lieutenants and even learned some scratchbuilding skills making pseudo-M1A1s by making resin bore evacuators from the Leo II and M1A1 kits,

So yeah, a 105 mm barrel with a 120 mm bore evacuator on it. I was proud of my work back then, but it would look very lame today!

Thank you Bill. It's finally getting there.

Having recently built the ESCI Leopard 2 that I had in my stash for many years, and comparing it to the Testor/Italeri Leopard 2 that I built when it was a new release, Italeri did a way better kit. They sure did have some good mold makers back then. 

Aside from adding the tracks and some antennas, basic construction is now complete. I replaced the kit .50 for the TC, with one from Dragon out of my spares drawers.

Painting can begin tomorrow…

Super nice job there SP, love how you're doing the mantlet cover. 

Thank you Gamera. It took awhile to find some good shots of the way the cover was held in place.

I airbrushed on a coat of Humbrol enamel Matt Black for the base coat

And a couple close ups of the added armor texturing and Archer casting mark decals under the base coat paint. I think that they look pretty good

Good guys wear black…

Looking great Stik!  I love those casting numbers.  Aw man, it's like PE seat belts - once you see them, you have to start doing them as well!

Regarding casting numbers on the real things, how often do they change during production?  Are there variations based on casting lot?   Inquiring minds want to know.

Thank you G. As far as casting marks go, I really don't know much about them. I do know that there is usually one symbol for the casting foundry, and then other numbers may be part numbers, lot numbers, or serial numbers. 

Excellent! I always love the sinster look of all black!

Good to hear that you like it Gamera.... but....

Woohoo! Olive Drab applied! I used Mission Models FS 33070 version of OD on this one. In all honesty, the more that I airbrush Mission Models, the less that I like them. Maybe it’s the dry climate here, but I get far better control and results with most every other brand. Anyways….

and some close ups of the casting texture and marks decals under the paint

More to come in a few days…

Okay, now she's starting to look like an American tank!

The texture you added looks wonderful under the paint. And the black base makes her look almost pre-shaded already. Guess I need to try that, I usually just prime the model in a dark OD green colour and just lighten as I move up.

Thanks Gamera. Ya know, I'm thinking about trying a black green or very dark OD for my next US AFV build instead of the black. At least for the non suspension and non grill areas. Then go with OD over that.... 

Stik,

She looks great ( as usual for you ) and I love the mantle cover job.

As hot as it is where you are I'm surprised the paint doesn't dry coming out of the nozzle!

There is nothing quite like seeing an American tank in good ole olive drab. The cast armor texture looks amazing! I especially like the casting numbers you added. 

M1 & John, thank you guys! I do appreciate your kind words.

So yesterday was bit more work on the road to completion,

I painted the road wheel and return roller tires using Mission Models Rubber Black. Then I airbrushed on a coat of Future in preparation for decals

Then I had to give the tracks a test fit…

Decals coming soon…

And the decals are now on! Not that many, even if some are a bit large and gaudy. 

These Star Decals are a bit thick and matt in finish. It’s taken a few doses of Solvaset to get the larger ones to conform to the texturing.

She looks ready to rumble! Beautiful finish work, Stik.

Thanks M1! The finish line is finally in sight! Not too much longer until it's ready to rumble!

That's so cool! Love the black panther markings! 

Carlos,

The texturing on your model is outstanding! I have to admit that I didn't fully see it coming together until now.  The decals (especially your Black Panther) is impressive as well.  Well sone so far!

Bill

Carlos,

What everyone else has said... really nice work! Looking forward to the final reveal.

Ben

Thanks guys. Been kinda busy around here with stuff so I haven't had much urge to be at the bench when I've had the free time. I do want to get this one all finished up soon. Just need to feel that energy flow to do the last bits.

Well, after sidelining this one in the mid summer due to life going on, I knuckled down on this one and wrapped it up over the past few day. Calling this done for now until I can whip up a proper base, a figure, and perhaps a few more additions.

Very nice!  I had forgot about this one - you did a lot of scratch work on the engine if I recall.  Sure looks good.  Line all the cats up - you did the Pershing right?

keavdog

Very nice!  I had forgot about this one - you did a lot of scratch work on the engine if I recall.  Sure looks good.  Line all the cats up - you did the Pershing right?

 

Thanks John. Yes, this had been sidelined for the past 4 months since early July, so easily forgotten... 

And yes, lots of work in the addtions into the engine compartment, as well as external mods to back date it to an early production variant. All of that contributed to losing steam on this one. 

Yes, I now have the M26, M26A1, M46, and finally this M47. I do need to get a family portrait photo taken.

Stik, A "family" portrait is a great idea. Would love to see you post it. Fabulous job on the M47. All that engine detail is wonderful. What era are we talking about with the M47? Early '50's?

M1GarandFan

Stik, A "family" portrait is a great idea. Would love to see you post it. Fabulous job on the M47. All that engine detail is wonderful. What era are we talking about with the M47? Early '50's?

 

Thank you! Ill see about getting the "family" portrait done this weekend M1. The M47 was in US Army service in the early to mid 50's until replaced by the follow on M48. It stayed with the Guard and Reserves for a few years longer, then of course if served with various allied nations for longer. Some countries did like the M48 and replaced the gas engine with Diesel engines, and upgunned to 105mm main guns to keep it as a viable MBT into the 80s.

Very good. Thanks for the info on the M47. 

Tojo72

Very nice,details look great and I like your greens.

 

Thanks Tony. The base OD is Mission Models. But looking at the photos, I think I need to go back and tone down the tracks a bit.

Nicely done, Stik.

Thank you Tiger. I'm happy to read that you like this.

M1GarandFan

Stik, A "family" portrait is a great idea. Would love to see you post it.

My Pershing Patton Family so far built over the past several years. Dragon T26E3 (2013), Dragon M26A1 (1997), Dragon M46 (2020), Italeri M47 (2021). 

EDIT- better photo taken

Great shot of some excellent modeling work!  Your color modulation of olive drab is outstanding!  I've got to ask, is the Korean War tiger schemed painted or a decal?  Was the M47 the old Italeri's or the new Tamiya reboxing of the Italeri kit?  I've always liked the Pershing and often wondered how the war would've turned out if they had come into action in Europe a year or two earlier.  The book "Spearhead" by Adam Makos is a good read if you like the Pershing.  Does the M-48 and the M-60 belong to this family?  Your group shot reminded that the guys on one of the modeling podcasts are doing a group build with their listeners for next year's nationals, their building all the variations of vehicles based on the Sherman/Grant/Lee frame.  Anxious to see more of your work.

TJS

Thank you Tom. The M46's Tiger scheme is mostly painted. The yellow was airbrushed on over the OD, then I hand painted the stripes & nose whiskers. The eyes, claws, and mouth were decals. If you ever build this kit with these markings, I suggest leaving off the front tool rack and tow hooks until after those decals are applied due to the contours of those items. Hindsight is 20/02, right?

The M47 is the Testors boxing of the original Italeri release.

Pershings earlier into combat? Interesting point. During the bocage battles, perhaps they might have reduced their superior armor protection, compared to the standard Sherman. But after the breakout from Normandy during the pursuit phase across France, the Sherman's superior automotive reliability and mobility really came into play. Those items plagued the Pershing in Korea, and they were replaced there in less than a year of entering combat.

Regarding the M48 and M60, yes, they are evolutionary outgrowths of the original Pershing design, so the y are a part of the family. The M46 replaced the engine and transmission of the M26, but kept the same main gun of the the M26A1 and a modified of the suspension from the original M26. That engine and transmission would be modified, eventually into a diesel version, but power the rest of the family. The M47 replaced the M46 turret with a new one, and modified the hull front. M48 introduced a new hull front and turret, as well as the diesel version of the engine later in the series, but kept the suspension and drive train. M60 introduced a new main gun and hull front, while later versions introduced new turrets, main gun on the A2, and other detail changes. So yes, from 1945, until the early 80's when M60A3 production ended and the M1 took over, it was one long family line.

Stik, thanks for the "family" photo. You can really see the development and the ancestry there. Thanks also for the history lesson on the family through the 1960's.

I always felt like Tom, that the Pershing would have been a great help earlier in the ETO, but I never really appreciated the reliability issue with the Pershing vs the Sherman. Good stuff!!

M1GarandFan

I always felt like Tom, that the Pershing would have been a great help earlier in the ETO, but I never really appreciated the reliability issue with the Pershing vs the Sherman. Good stuff!!

Thanks M1. Yeah, Korea was an interesting situation. Most tank vs tank fighting was in 1950, then dwindled by 1951. The Pershing's were phased out in 1951 and replaced by Sherman's and M46s, with the Sherman being preferred for its superior mobility. The M4A3E8 Sherman, with the now standard 76mm APDS round for tank to tank fighting was more than adequate in fighting the T-34/85 at standard combat ranges. Had that round been available in mass quantity in 1944 for 76mm gunned Shermans when US and German armor saw the most frequent combat, it would have improved things. The Sherman requested, but that never was, a Jumbo with the HVSS "E8" suspension and 76mm gun would have been an even better solution to ETO US tank losses.

That looks great SP!!! 

Love the family portrait too!!!! 

Thank you for your kind words Gamera.