"The Hunters GB" (2/1/08 to 6/1/08)

Hi Scott, Thanks for the info and photos. Right, that clarifies things, I'll lay the gunshield flat. I'll open the hatch and pose the shield and gun on the next StuG I do.

Today I sprayed the fade coat on the upper hull, a very dilute yellow/white mixture with 90% thinner, misted on to fade both yellow and green together. I might have got it a bit heavy, but it's the first time I've tried this. When the general dirt and chipping builds up it'll probably look pretty realistic. I also sprayed the tracks and spare links a dark umber and am now rusting the latter before mounting them with the retaining bar behind the superstructure. The masking can start to come away too, and the external tools will be painted shortly.

Next WIP pic hopefully tomorrow night,

Cheers,

TB379

As far as I can tell the gun shield is supported by the front loaders hatch only.  There are a few photos of StuGs with the gun shield upright and the loaders hatch shut but these are all photos of StuGs on static display. 

The front loader's hatch plate had a locking hasp that engaged a hook on the shield and stabilized it during firing. You'll also notice that there are two places to mount the MG, either through the hole to shoot at ground targets, or on top for air defense.

JMart wrote:

Chris - sweet looking LAV! couple questions... the wheel treads seem to go in both directions (ie, each wheel's treads point in oposute ways0, is this by design? I dont know much about modern vehicles.  The "turning" wheel details is FANTASTIC, really makes the vehicle jump to life.

Thanks James! and thanks for the heads up on the tread direction, I didn't even notice! Your right they're not supposed to go in opposite directions I just wasn't paying close attention. Since I havn't glued them to the axles yet, I'll just pop them off and reposition them. And nice work on your SU-85 so far, How is that kit to build? I've heard mixed feelings on it.

Chris,

Thunderbolt379 wrote:

Hi Scott -- Quick technical question. I'm about to mount the MG shield before painting (all masking now done) and it struck me that my reference books are unclear on this point: yes, the forward section of the loader's hatch locked to and supported the shield, but was the shield supported any other way? I.e., would it be technically incorrect to have both the hatch closed and the gun shield raised? The late production Ausf. G had a hatch that opened laterally, rather than longitudinally, but that may have been teamed with the MG in the remote control mount rather than the manual gun, so that sheds no light. Any advice would be most appreciated. For the moment, I'll mask the attachment point and leave the shield off while I paint, and come back to it later. Cheers, TB379

That's a good question. If I understand it correctly it is the front loaders hatch which is the support for the shield.  I have one great photo of that arrangement which I'll post for you when I get home this evening.

BTW, Nice progress on the StuG!  

Hi all,

StuG update -- the main camo is now on. Subject to it passing inspection in natural light tomorrow, the next step is a fading mist coat on the upper surfaces, then onto decals, weathering, external tools, mud and dust.

Here's the latest photo:

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The tracks need airbrushing, drybrushing and dusting, and there'll be antennae to scratchbuild. I'm very pleased with the way the PE screens worked, I'll be doing this a lot in future.

The GB ends on Saturday, that's four days: I'm gonna try my hardest for that badge!

Cheers,

TB379

Hi Scott -- Quick technical question. I'm about to mount the MG shield before painting (all masking now done) and it struck me that my reference books are unclear on this point: yes, the forward section of the loader's hatch locked to and supported the shield, but was the shield supported any other way? I.e., would it be technically incorrect to have both the hatch closed and the gun shield raised? The late production Ausf. G had a hatch that opened laterally, rather than longitudinally, but that may have been teamed with the MG in the remote control mount rather than the manual gun, so that sheds no light.

Any advice would be most appreciated. For the moment, I'll mask the attachment point and leave the shield off while I paint, and come back to it later.

Cheers,

TB379

Dupes- The cammo netting is gauze soaked in elmers glue and water. Only thing I did was mix some OD acrylic paint in the glue mixture so I would not have to put a base coat on it. Thanks for the comments!

-Stephen

Sry guys, but again I will not make the deadline.
My kit is stoved away with my other gear since 4 weeks now.
My employer has decided to delay his current activities here and pick up again in June.
So I am relocated to Sweden but my stuff is still out there.
The kit tracks where crap anyway and I am waiting for a replacement that has not arrived.

Would it be OK with you guys if I continue to post progress pics in this thread even after the 1'st of June.

Not claming the badge or anything just bringing things to an end?




 

Nice work guys! 

I'm finishing up the tools and will have them installed later this afternoon.  Then the weathering can begin!  Pics to follow. 

Sweet Hellcat! Don't know if you posted something about the balled up camo netting already, but is that a homemade product?

Nice work.

Hi all,

I had a good session last night, mounting all remaining parts pre-painting with the exception of the MG shield, which still needs the filler in the ejector-pin marks rubbed down. I've decided to do her hatches-closed for simplicity (I have two more StuGs on their way, I'll do others hatches-open, with skirts, zimmerit and such in due course), and though technically the shield should be stowed and the MG dismounted if the loader's hatch is closed, I want the 'flash' value of the MG deployed.

I'll mask something like three dozen elements tonight, and she should be in the paintshop tomorrow. I'm hoping to get the overall camo and tracks done in one major session of work.

Cheers,

TB379

NucMedTech wrote:

Well looks like everyone is keeping busy over the long weekend!!These builds are fantastic! I'm going to call the M-18 done!! Here are the final pics. I still need to put the antenae(sp?) on, but prefer to wait until I complete the dio as I'm notorious for knocking them off. Tigerman, once again, another great group build!   -Stephen

Thanks Stephen. If you could find the thread with finished GB pics, you could add them there also.

Glad to see you back Digger. From what I see, it looks very nice, but unfortunately, you must have the wrong setting on your camera, so it's focusing in the background.

Well looks like everyone is keeping busy over the long weekend!!These builds are fantastic!

I'm going to call the M-18 done!! Here are the final pics.

I still need to put the antenae(sp?) on, but prefer to wait until I complete the dio as I'm notorious for knocking them off. Tigerman, once again, another great group build!

-Stephen

 ok, Catching up here..

Scott - very nice job on the Stug! As the saying goes, poop does happen ;) Glad you have recovered! One of those things in which you say "I know I will laugh at this some day.. just NOT today!".  Hey, your build looks better and better each step! (yes, Im reading the last 5 pages in one sitting!).

Chris - sweet looking LAV! couple questions... the wheel treads seem to go in both directions (ie, each wheel's treads point in oposute ways0, is this by design? I dont know much about modern vehicles.  The "turning" wheel details is FANTASTIC, really makes the vehicle jump to life.

M1 A1 A2 Tanker - Nice start to your M10

frangkly - nice job on the camo scheme, nice color blend-in.

Douglas1 - nice Jagdpanzer, did you try using stretched sprue as antennae?

NucMedTech - really REALLY nice work! I do like OD ;)  nice dio idea, look forward to the rest!

SAR - hey, Im the one bringing up the rear, so dont worry mate! ;)

diggeraone - nice work and congrats on completing! I had the same problem with my DigCam, seems to be auto-focusing behind the object. try moving the reticule of the cam, zoom in or switch to "close object' setting. That combo worked for me in taking a tad better pics.

As for my feeble Tamiya SU-85, I am working on the construction and track/wheel painting this weekend, then hope to start main body painting early next week, and hopefully finish the weathering on time!

Here is some pics I took last week, nothing but the box and the first step, to show im (trying) to work on it!

Hi all,

WIP shot of the StuG -- the roof is press-fitted, as are the wheels and tracks, next comes some dark yellow touchup on the mantlet, then mount the gun and close the fighting compartment. Then add the PE and some dressing bits, and it's into the paintshop for the main camo.

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I've only got a week left and there's lots else to do (I have a review of my PhD thesis on the 29th -- OUCH!) But I'll do my very best, I'd be prepared to call her finished if there was maybe just a little weathering left to do.

Cheers,

TB379

Well here is my little wessel ready to go.This was a great big pain in the butt to get put together.I did not use the photo eiched with this as each and every time i lost some little piece of it and slowed me down on the building of it.If it was not lost it is on there or had to make extra parts for it....Digger

p.s.I don't know why this camera keeps shooting out of focus.Maybe soon I will figure it out.

tigerman wrote:

Nice weathering Deroberst. Could we get a few more pics, or you could submit them to the finshed GB thread that I started. Don't forget the badge either.

I will publish more pics in the final.  Nice job moderating the GB. You deserve some kudos for the idea and the effort.

This is my second DML model.  And I have noticed that the only thing I dont like about DML is the instructions.  I never thought advil would be needed at my bench....I should have pics soon.

Doug 

well an update for me, ive got my marder 2 about 90% done. just sprayed the roadwheel black and will be puttin on the base yellow on today or tomorrow. sorry no pics but i have to snag a camera till mine is unpacked. if anybodys interested the kit is reallly good, but the instructions really stink!!

                                                S.A.R

dupes wrote:

Scott - looking sweet! What unit is it that uses the "spade" emblem? I remember seeing that on WBill's Pz.III a while back as well...adds some pizazz or something.

Thanks guys. 

Ill have to do some digging on this one.  I'm not sure if the spade symbol in this case is for the Das Reich StuG Abteilung or if perhaps it's for Div. HQ attachments or what.  Good question. 

Scott, that StuG is looking pretty snazzy, and DerOberst the Jadgpanzer is looking beautiful too (nice weathering job).

 Jeff

Scott - looking sweet!

What unit is it that uses the "spade" emblem? I remember seeing that on WBill's Pz.III a while back as well...adds some pizazz or something.

Scott- the stug is looking great. I also tried the no future decaling and it turned out pretty good as well. However I did end up using MicroSol and Set solutions.

TB379- Any progress pics of your stug? I'm also interested in the differences between the two.

The Hellcat is done I just need to get the finished pics up, will try to do that tonight.

-Stephen

Hi Scott -- Well, I must say the paintjob doesn't look patched at all, the colour transitions are very smooth indeed. Great AB control! I'll have to see how clever I can be with my Paasch.

Okay, no clearcoat, no decalset -- this is decaling the old-fashioned way, just with a very dextrous hand. The idea of not being compelled to clearcoat is very appealing, as I've not had much luck with the few experiments I've tried in the past. Future looks hands-down the best option, but it's absolutely unavailable in Aus -- I'm still trying the wrangle a supply from overseas but it's not easy! So going with a straight application to a matt surface is a perfect solution. Microscale/Superscale used to say their decals would not work at all on anything but a gloss surface, so I've always been wary. All the Tamiyas I've done to date have been matt finish with kit decals that went down over the flat paint without argument.

I look forward to seeing your StuG completed -- it'll be most interesting to see our two renditions of the same subject, how they compare and how they vary.

Cheers,

TB379

My wife and oldest daughter always keep me well fed. 

And thanks guys.

I fixed my overspray problems by respraying a nicely thinned mix of XF-60 Dark Yellow and XF-57(?) Buff in between the splotches, and just did a little touch up on some of the green after that.  Wasn't too difficult but I tell you, the greens seem to be hard to get the mix and pressure just right.  

There was a thread a while back discussion the use of Future and some of our better modelers out there swear they never use Future (the Doog and others).  So I gave that a try with my Pz.Kpfw. 38(t) Ausf. F for the Winter Warriors GB and the decals worked just fine over the flat paint if you're careful.

I didn't use any sort of clearcoat for the decals.  I just made sure the area was wet when I went to place the decals.  That was easy as I held the decal with the paper backing with a set of tweezers.  When I pulled it out of the water instead of wiping it off I used the excess water to wet the spot where the decal was to go.  Then I carefully sliding the decal off to ensure no air bubbles got under the decal as it slid into the water on the surface.  Using a lint free cloth which I had dipped in water to make it moist I wrapped the wet spot over my finger then while pressing firmly I used a rolling motion with my finger to squeegie everything out from under it.  Just be careful to soak up some of the excess water first as the decal tends to float and move when there is a lot of water under it.  They hunkered down really well with no bubbles or silvering and better yet I didn't have to use any decal solution!  I am very please with the results. 

espins1 wrote:

Thunderbolt379 wrote: Yo, Scott -- reality check, I'm having exactly the same problem with Tamiya green. I pushed the thinning ratio from 0.5 : 1 (for the yellow) to 1:1, and had to use twice the pressure just to get it to spray at all... NOT GOOD! Acrylics may have many benefits but this is reason to think enamels. I gotta patch up the yellow on the gun and mantlet (the only part of the main beast I mottled, this session was for the running gear), and decide what to do. The wheels are fine, they'll get rusted, dusted and mudded, but the body needs better definition. I can try switching down to the fine tip and needle, and really thinning the paint, but an inadequacy in the paint formulation is the last thing you think of as a hurdle to overcome! BTW -- did you add backing to the driver's vision slit? I notice the Echelon profile drawings show what looks like an armorglass block, but the kit provides nothing and I've not spotted anything in references yet... Cheers, TB379 I meant to get these photos posted last night, but was distracted by a really good dinner made by my wife and oldest daughter, BBQ steak, zuccinni, garlic potatos, garlic bread and a nice bottle of Cabernet.

OK Scott!!  You always seem to get off track when a great meal is lurking nearby!  I suggest next time sending me the hot meal (don' forget the cabernet!) while you go finish that StuG.....

BTW, the StuG is looking mighty fine!  BBQ and wine must bring out the best in you!!

Hi Scott -- VERY, VERY nice work! That's a lovely, clean build. I'm running  a few steps behind you at this point.

Okay, spill! How did you beat the green spatter problem? Did you use dunkelgelb to clean up between the green spots, or did you manage to get the green to behave itself a bit more??? I've been considering spraying through system card masks. I have Olive Green XF-58, which is a very close shade to the 26 I've used on the wheels -- what's your experience with this one? Still stuffing around?

The decals went on beautifully for you. They're printed by Microscale, IIRC -- so they call for clearcoats? I've been having the jitters at the thought of gloss and flat coats after the crazing that appeared on the beautiful Jagdpanther a few pages back and I'm considering using the Tamiya crosses that will always go on over a flat paint, then using tightly-localised gloss under the unit insignia.

Check! -- easier to ignore the vision block.

Did you use the template method for the wheels? They're on a half-milimeter increment so I've had to correct overspray with a fine brush and they've not come out as well as yours.

I'm determined to get my first GB badge but it's going to be tight, I have so much else to do (PhD work, it's National Archaeology week here in Aus, keeping up with contacts -- argh! When I've no time to plan a painting session I add a few bits to the Merkava I'm doing for the IDF GB, which is progressing nicely -- but it's not gonna get me a badge here!

Cheers,

TB379