Well that had me laughing out loud...probably wasn't funny at the time but it sure sounds hilarious now

The StuG looks good from here! Your airbrush problem may have been paint drying on the tip - the Tamiya green shades seem especially susceptible to that.

Coming along nicely Douglas! 

Here are a couple of pics after I sprayed and retouched the camouflage.  I had a chain reaction of bad events happen on Saturday.  For whatever reason I just could not get the mix right for the green splotches Tamiya Thinner/XF-61 Dark Green.  I'm almost thinking it might have been an old bottle of paint.  I was getting a lot of spatter and overspray.  In fact, I was so dissatisfied with the way it was spraying I stopped after I had done the lower hull sides to dump and make a new batch.  I ended up dripping a big drop of the paint onto my pants....    I boogied to the bathroom to clean everything and start over.  I got to the bathroom then realized that the bottle of windex was still in my den.  I ran back to the den, grabbed the windex and headed back to the bathroom.  That's when I realized that at some point one of our freakin' pets took a dump on the floor which I had managed to step in and track from the bathroom, across the hall and into and out of my den.    I kicked off my shoes, finished cleaning the A/B and made a new mix and finished spraying the green spots, but still wasn't happy as I was getting a lot of overspray.  

I spent the next 30 minutes cleaning up critter poo, swearing and cursing all the way and was still very dissatisfied with the spray job.  I managed to clog the toilet too from cleaning up the poop.    At some point I had to get something out of my daughters room.  I remembered to duck on the way in to avoid smacking my head on her pull-up bar but forgot on the way out.... smacked the crap out of my forehead which added insult to injury. 

Tough day.  Last night I mixed a batch of XF-60 Dark Yellow and XF-57 Buff to fix the green overspray issues, then made a new mix of XF-61 Dark Green with just a tad of Olive Green for good measure and patched up the spots.  I have a few more little touch ups to do then I'll get the decals on it. 

Sorry about the double post but since I'm building this for the group build I thought I should post the here. This is my Italeri Jagdpanzer 38(t) WIP its straight OOB except for the muffler which was scratch built (the one from the kit was missing along with the inners sprockets) I will also be adding ostketten from Accurate Armour, they're in poor condition so I hope I can clean them up I've never worked with resin. I painted it with Tamiya acrylics

I'm not keeping the antenna, it appears way out of scale

The inner sprockets were a gift from a modeller from another state from his spares box

This is my very first attempt at a camo scheme (Thanks for the tutorial Doog!)

I was told this old kit was made from the Bovington Hetzer so there are some things that are incorrect and some things are missing. The skirts are finished and so is the remote MG all thats left are the road wheels, tracks and pioneer tools. Can I get some tips on realistic wood? then I can begin the weathering. I hope I can get it finished in time. Please give me your opinions and any tips anyone has. All of the models on this thread have been amazing! I've been taking it all in and picking up some techniques. Thanks guys!!

Regards, Doug

Hey

     Chris

                 Yeah, this kit comes with the die-cast lower hull as well... I'm just going for the metal gun because I really don't like the two piece main guns that come in most kits. other than that it will be OOB. I probably should fill in the sponson floors but I just don't feel like it.. so the guns going to be it.

Seeya

Scott 

I decided after all to "fix" the ejector pin marks on the underside of the fenders of the StuG.  It's a bit of a pain in the to do that once the kit has been assembled so it took a little while do to having to very carefully work the sanding sticks in there without damaging any of the running gear or lip of the fenders.  

I'm going to give it one last inspection then spray some paint on it.  I'll have pics a little later today. 

Nice work guys, here my jadgtiger, I painted her couple days ago and I just started with weathering. input and comment are always welcome to improve this destroyed jadgtiger .

Here my JS-2 in progress.......

Thanks Dupes & Scott!

Dupes: To rearrange the wheels, I just cut apart the steering bar assembly: trumpeter makes it as one part (but in real life it is made up of four) into four sections, then glued them at the my chosen angle, It took a little fiddling with at first but it's not really that difficult.

M1 A1 A2 Tanker: Nice work so far on your M10, did Tamiya provide a die-cast hull with this one like they did on their Shermans?

Chris,

Hi

   Guys/Gals

        Well, started my Tamiya 1/48 M-10  a few days ago. Just got the package from Great Models yesterday with the Aber M7  main gun.  So thought I'd give you all an update photo.

I'll be away till Saturday night so I'll give you all another update again in about a week and a half.

Seeya

Scott 

Well I made quite a bit of progress this week on the LAV; I painted the superstructure & wheels, along with adding all the tools, and it now awaits the jerrycans and weathering.

Chris,

Looking good Espns. Glad to see you're putting the screens to good use after waiting so long to get them!

I have a question that I hope you all can help me with. Is there a different position for the 50 cal mount when it is being fired? At it's current position the gun handles will stab  the gunner through the chest. If it will help I'll get some pictures up to help illustrate.

Hey guys, now that my Pz.Kpfw. 38(t) Ausf. F is finished for the Winter Warriors GB, the Tamiya StuG III Ausf. G is back on the bench.  I have installed the grill screens and attached two small strips of thin sheet styrene to cover the open sponsons.  I really wish Tamiya would do those properly.  There is nothing more "toyish" than looking through the cammanders hatch and seeing a huge open space on either side. 

Plastic-cross, I'm planning on covering the mantlet. One day I hope to put this in a dio and my references indicate that they rarely went without the cover. My kit is from AFV and from what I can tell it's supposed to be an early version with muzzle brake, 36 tooth drive sprocket, and Steel tracks (which I still have to figure out how to paint). Thanks for commenting.

Stephen

BTW are planning to go to Scalefest?

NucMedTech wrote:

Here are some update pics. I've pretty much have the M-18 complete, just the tools and some other small bits to finish up.

Oh yea, I forgot to ask - are you going to do the protective cover for the gun mantle?  If so, I'll be interested in how you do it.

Also - I notice you used the muzzle break on this build.  I like that feature, and I often wonder why it wasn't used on all of the production M18s. 

Larry

Fantasticosso on the M18 NucMedThech !

You've got a great build going on my favorite WWII vehicle.  Is that the AFV Club kit?  Looks superb all the way around.  I find the machine gun to be one of the most difficult parts to obtain a realistic looking result......yours looks spot on.  Can't wait to see it finished.

I've already got the jagdpanther sitting on my desk over here at my new job.  I've turned it to have its "good" side showing.   So I probably won't be doing any reburshing work on it.  I want to try to finish up my Scimitar in the next week or two, so that will be my primary build focus.

Best Regards,y

Larr

Plastic-cross sorry to see your troubles. It was looking so nice. Will you try to fix it or call it a wash?

Fantacmet- Glad to see you back!! I posted some interior pics awhile back but then hadn't heard from you. I see now that you've been busy in other areas. Since you are past the interior part, I still have one or two different camo patterns if you like.

Here are some update pics. I've pretty much have the M-18 complete, just the tools and some other small bits to finish up.

Pollyscale or Vallejo flat coat.

Just be certain to stir, stir, stir and stir some more when using Pollysclae. It is in my opinion, the best flat coat on the market but must be prepared properly to avoid frost white blushing appearing. Once you have stirred the paint, thin it with distilled water ready for airbrushing and lay down thin layers.

Being acrylic, that makes a perfect barrier coat for weathering washes etc.

madmike - very sweet build! Looks better than mine at 1:48 :) cheers mate!

tigerman - I really dig your NY METS hat collection ;) Go Mets

Townsy11 - Really nice job so far!

fantacmet - Looknig good, and hope all is well with your new 1:1 Cheers

Plastic_Cross - Bummer about the cracking... so WHAT is a good way to "dull" a shiny coat at the end? I usually do enamel base/Future/Decals/Future/Acrylic wash/pinwash/pastels... and for the wingy thingies, another Future coat to end. Im finishing my first armor, and debating what to use at the end instead of Future. All my finishing solutions are lacquer based (MM & testors flat/dull). I guess Ill try applying some thin coats with the AB first, see what happens...

madmike wrote:

Testors dull cote is a lacquer based paint, thus "hotter" than enamels and acrylics. So what has happened is the underlying paint has softened and crazed due to the overcoat of dull cote. It happened to me once using Aermaster flat coat thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner spayed over Tamiya dark yellow.  The thinner softened and reacted with the dark yellow. I was not impressed and I thin flat coat with distilled water now! The unwritten rule is "LEA" (Lacquer/Enamel/Acrylic) You can alter that order but only using a good barrier coat. For example, Future over enamels in order to use oil washes.  If you really want to use hotter paints over paints that could react, then apply multiple light coats to reduce the chance of the carrier reacting with the paint it is covering. I have used both methods successfully on many occaisons, even with Tamiya spray can lacquers over Pollyscale/Vallejo acrylics. Can you carefully repaint that section and re-weather at all? Mike

Thanks for the info Mike.  Looks like my bad habits have finally caught up with me.  I've used the Dull Cote before and this never happened.  I'm guessing that I may applied too heavy of a coat this time.  I painted and finished in the following order:

1. Acrylic base
2. Acrylic 2nd 3rd coats of mixed dark yellow shades
3. Acryic camo
4. 2 weeks dry time
5. future, just over the areas to be decaled
6. 3 days dry time
7. filters and general washes using oil paints and mineral spirits
8. pin wash using oil paint and mineral spirits
9. 1 week dry time
10. drybrush with oils
11. 1 week drying time
12. Spray with Dull Cote
    
    

I don't think I'll repaint and fix the areas though.  I'll leave the result as a reminder to me to be more careful in the future.  Hopefully ze Man 'o Tiger will see fit to slip me a Hunters GB badge under the table anyhow, in spite of my lack of fortitude. 

dupes wrote:

Ohhh man, that's too bad. Looks like it's everywhere. Guess you're going to have to build another one to make up for it...that and buy some flat coat that ISN'T Testors Dull Cote.

OK...... You ! I just might do just that

Ohhh man, that's too bad. Looks like it's everywhere.

Guess you're going to have to build another one to make up for it...that and buy some flat coat that ISN'T Testors Dull Cote.

Plastic_Cross wrote:

I was finishing up my jagdpanther - a little more wash, some drybrush.  Looking pretty good I thought.  There was a little bit of shine on the hull area where I had brushed on some future prior to applying the decals....so I thought I'd lay a coat of Testor's Dull Cote for good measure.  Some serious cracking going on here. I've not experienced this before.  Can anyone tell me what the heck happened?  Larry

Testors dull cote is a lacquer based paint, thus "hotter" than enamels and acrylics. So what has happened is the underlying paint has softened and crazed due to the overcoat of dull cote.

It happened to me once using Aermaster flat coat thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner spayed over Tamiya dark yellow.  The thinner softened and reacted with the dark yellow. I was not impressed and I thin flat coat with distilled water now!

The unwritten rule is "LEA" (Lacquer/Enamel/Acrylic) You can alter that order but only using a good barrier coat. For example, Future over enamels in order to use oil washes.  If you really want to use hotter paints over paints that could react, then apply multiple light coats to reduce the chance of the carrier reacting with the paint it is covering.

I have used both methods successfully on many occaisons, even with Tamiya spray can lacquers over Pollyscale/Vallejo acrylics.

Can you carefully repaint that section and re-weather at all?

Mike