1/12 MUTANT HONDA: DONE ,SECOND OF 2011

Howdy Steve!

Did you prime your parts with a transparent primer? I started wondering, why the paint companies do something like that - I find it harder to inspect the coverage when the paint is transparent and all the different colour peek from underneath...

BTW, I always think about your work on engines when I do the Cummins for my Mack! Bike on, have a nice day

Paweł

Pawel -Thanks  Been on a chopper kit elsewhere...Managed to get the gb on here.Metal finishes next...

Looking great Steve !

Thanks Trey!          Here is some work in progress ,I wanted to try some carbon-fiber decals for the bodywork on the bike. So I got some of this:

I put mask on the parts and cutout my shapes:

I transferred the shapes to the decal sheet and cut out my decals:

I followed the decal manufacturers instructions ,the decals curkled in the water then pretty much disintegrated . I applied the pieces as it goes with the 'look' I'm tryna get. I will airbrush the body work colors up to the decal when they dry. These were a little crappy to say the least. The decals were stiff fopr a while then finally laid down. I did not ask too much of them so I am disappointed.

And I sprayed some chrome parts ,this will be a base for other colors to come .

Cool huh?

A little more work on the paint side of things .I like to line up the metalizers ,lightest to darkest , never mind which metal , and start with the lightest overall and then work through the shades until I like the 'look'. There are three metalizer colors on the chrome base of all these parts. Also brass to color the clutch cover,The exhaust pipes will be simulated stainless steel ,this takes on a gold-amber patina after running , you will see that in the pix, I may add some heat coloring as I go. You will also see the familiar blue bottle ,we all know what that means!

Wow good thing you were'nt trying to use those cf decals on a straight up build,they look the part for this perfectly.

Trey -No comment on the blue bottle?!    Yes the decals were a let down.I saw a whole 1/24   car done in this product ,an IPMS best in show down there in the USA , that convinced me to buy it. I dont know what happened,but the decal sheet as supplied is unusable for large pieces. The print is realistic though ,I will apply different color layers and then sand through them down to the cf decal.

Was digging that nos?bottle. I'm geussing a trans blue over silver?nice anodized effect. I've seen those decals and was tempted myself, now not so sure,think some decal set would cure it?

Chrome with Tamiya transparant blue over,for the nos bottle. The decals were in pieces before the Microsol/set was even deployed. They went in lukewarm water, curled , came out and fell apart. I used the sol/set as directed on the fragments.

Something else I'm workin' on in Swanny's site.....

Some beautiful work, krow!

I've always wanted to know how to do those anodized exhausts. I knew it was something to do with metallizers; it's cool to see it done in detail here. I love the Alclad stuff--I use the chrome stuff quite a bit.

You know that you can use decal film from Micro....I forget what it's called, but it's basically a liquid decal film from the "Microsol" manufacturer that you spray over the decals and let set. It stops the decals from disintegrating. I've used ti to save old decals. Works like a charm. Something to consider for the future.

Doogywoogy - Thanks for the comment and interest. Makes me feel like I might be doin' alright when guys like you and wild bill comment on my stuff !  Tough enough on here to get any attention sometimes! Perhaps a quick tutorial by you would be cool on the Alclad chrome application,I would be keen to see that.

Trey has a build on here with some great exhaust coloring,as well I read an article in a Scale Model Car supplement recently on this subject. Mine is replicating s/steel pipes which take on their own gold patina as well as very subtle coloring. In a recent post you said you were "all about layering" this is the needed thinking to pull off the exhaust coloring acceptably . Please continue to watch here as I go through the process, as I do document all my steps.On Swanny's site I have an ongoing M/C STUFF thread ,with other work as well.

As far as the decal goes your tip is filed and I would look at that if the decals are old or of unknown origin.These are brand new decals (I believe)  from Hiroboy (excellent service,delivery, etc) ,one would not assume they would be  of limited use. I will try your suggestion when I use more of the sheet.You may glean from this I am loathe to comment in the negative regarding others products ,however I wont sugar-coat the truth.

krow113

Doogywoogy - Thanks for the comment and interest. Makes me feel like I might be doin' alright when guys like you and wild bill comment on my stuff !  Tough enough on here to get any attention sometimes! Perhaps a quick tutorial by you would be cool on the Alclad chrome application,I would be keen to see that.

Trey has a build on here with some great exhaust coloring,as well I read an article in a Scale Model Car supplement recently on this subject. Mine is replicating s/steel pipes which take on their own gold patina as well as very subtle coloring. In a recent post you said you were "all about layering" this is the needed thinking to pull off the exhaust coloring acceptably . Please continue to watch here as I go through the process, as I do document all my steps.On Swanny's site I have an ongoing M/C STUFF thread ,with other work as well.

The Alclad stuff doesn't even need a tutorial, really--it's so easy. Just spray it over gloss black. Pretty simple!

Doog -Thanks- As for the alclad you make it sound too easy!

Ongoin' with the paint here, all in Tamiya acrylics .White to begin ,then red , then black again.I did seal the c/f decals with a few coats of Future first. WTF am I doin' ? You'll see...

krow, I'm interested in how to coat the decals with Future. Did you have to thin the Future with anything? Or do you spray it straight from the bottle/airbrush?

Doog -Thanks for your interest and comment. The Future is sprayed straight from the bottle. With a .5mm tip moving constantly and 'triggering the gun' .Triggering is moving in and out of spraying while keeping the air on,this technique allows better feathering. The future is tricky to build up ,the metalflake job I am working on requires separate applications, to bury the flake, over a number of days. Too much on will run off and actually 'pull' the layer off with it, kinda like stretching saran wrap ,if ya get my meaning. Too much results in 'fogging' as well ,thats ok since it will clear up ,but still a good indicator as to how much has been applied. As you well know the dry time is crucial with this many layers of coating ,more time is best to be sure.

I'll let these layers dry off and begin the distressing of the mutated paint work in a few days.

krow113

Doog -Thanks for your interest and comment. The Future is sprayed straight from the bottle. With a .5mm tip moving constantly and 'triggering the gun' .Triggering is moving in and out of spraying while keeping the air on,this technique allows better feathering. The future is tricky to build up ,the metalflake job I am working on requires separate applications, to bury the flake, over a number of days. Too much on will run off and actually 'pull' the layer off with it, kinda like stretching saran wrap ,if ya get my meaning. Too much results in 'fogging' as well ,thats ok since it will clear up ,but still a good indicator as to how much has been applied. As you well know the dry time is crucial with this many layers of coating ,more time is best to be sure.

I'll let these layers dry off and begin the distressing of the mutated paint work in a few days.

Did you ever try Model Master acrylic Gloss? It sprays fine, and is harmless and easy to apply. Not sure if it exactly matches the shine from Future, but its ease of application might be worth looking into?

Doog -Thanks for your interest.-I am limiting my use of clears in the builds I am on to Future at this point .Each type of clear  has its merits. I have used Humbrol clear from the tin for lenses in goggles and guages ,but prefer Kristal Klear for the guages. I have other clears as well but the future is so easy to work with and once the learning curve for application is done it gets real easy. I will definitly look for the MM clear and try it out on something.

I dont know about longevity with the future ,but I build a storage box and a base for all my kits, this will limit the damage from air/dust. You know very well ,Karl , there is little that is new in our hobby ,this is good . One of my favourite parts of all this is the research ,not only the subject but the techniques as well.Looking in FSM issues at your work  and wbills and Rick Lawlers modulation article to name a few really helps . I am looking forward to a 'hairspray' build in the future as well, as this technique fascinates me.

krow,

Thanks for the kind words; it's always a thrill for me to hear that my work has inspired someone-as your own work is doing here.

I too know the "fun" of research and documentation. It's great to not only build a great model, but to have a bit of knowledge to impart or learn from your time spent building it. It rounds out the build into a "project".

Well ,well, well , I beaked off aboot having proper storage boxes and bases for my pieces. Then I woke up. Realizing I had not done that on this kit I thought aboot it and came up with something a little different , using the same materials as usual ,starting with 1" medite. Cut out the irregular shape and routed the edges ,inverted this time as if 'offering up' the piece. Sanded and primed I made 2 others today as well ,one for the Trump , and one for the T-35.All three made it to primer.

This is a post apocalyptic (prolly an overused term) mutant built/maintained/ridden psycho sickle,all this mutant related activity seems to be most prevalent in the Land Down Under. For this base I would like to get, and use ,some of that red ,red ,cruvy dirt from down there.

Agent G from on here was kind enough to participate in the Bobber '47 wip so popular on here, and was given full kudo's/credit. I can only hope that someone from Oz will step up and help out with this humble request.

I know a lot of people watch my stuff ,the views are there ,and I try to keep it entertaining .Any one from OZ watchin? Yeah yer there ,name yer price for a bag o' that fine Aussie dirt. Also a pic or two ,with dimensions, of one of those highway signs with a kangaroo warning , ie: (roo shape) next 50K .

krow113

 

 

 

 

 

Doog-Yes I'm tryna figure out the use of this. I was shooting in the booth but got this soft box.I bought lights as well but the halogen bulbs are yellow,bummer . I am aware of the dingy look of the pix at this point , I will set up some lights later today.

More lights and some adjustments...

... and here we are with a quick shot or two of some assembly hardware,these are Grandt ,Verlinden and Tichy with a little CMK items ,primed ,gloss black and then  Alclad II chrome.

That base is going to be just right for this build ,great choice

Trey -Thanks ,still no comment on the 'Aussie dirt ask' though.

I was hopin' to get some real Oz dirt...

I laid some Alclad II on the wheels ,part of the treatment to come... You will see the masked off rims ,I will follow here with a coat of flat black acrylic.

And showin; my hand a little here with the weapons package components. A 1/16 scale David Parkins Firing Line WW1 SMLE rifle ,suitably mutated into ,well you figger it out...

As if it aint enough ,here is an o/a shot of another bike build...

" funny you should mention ,our new single ,made the charts ,with a bullet

a bullet ,

 a bullet , "

Here are all the parts with thier various finishes .I still need to distress the body parts and the wheels.Lookin' at final assembly .I want to finish one model a month this year, got Che' done ,this may be next.

Wheel work . I tried the hairspray treatment ,first time for me, Alberto VO 5 , when I got a wiff of the stuff it reminded me of me old Mum - Any way I think it looks ok for the mutation situation.

Here is the hsprayed piece.

This is after the flat black acrylic is applied ,cool crackel finish .

After dry time I scrubbed with a toothbrush ,but not too much! ,turned out very nicely.

Some more dry time then a flat clear coat ....