Revell 56 Ford F-100 Demon II-Completed! 04/15

Steve: You just can't beat this stuff.

Thanks guys for the good comments.

Say Joe--did you have to thin the clear for airbrushing? If so--what thinner did you use?  Taking notes sir. LOL.

Btw. Have you ever tried using Future to mount clears parts? I did that with my TBM-3 build and it worked awesome. Specifically, on the tiny nav light covers. I positioned them in place and let capillary action do its work.

Keep up the good work.

Hey Steve,

 No I didn't thin it any. It's straight from the can so it's ready to shoot................with alot more control of course.

..............and I have used Future to adhere clear parts. I just messed up ROYALLY and thought clear nail polish would do the trick as well. BIG mistake and I should've known better.

mustang1989

Hey Steve,

 No I didn't thin it any. It's straight from the can so it's ready to shoot................with alot more control of course.

..............and I have used Future to adhere clear parts. I just messed up ROYALLY and thought clear nail polish would do the trick as well. BIG mistake and I should've known better.

 

And hey, nothing wrong with trying things. I have a history of boondoggles too! Lol. 

Joe:  Thanks for the added info. on the Testers  

[mumble to self...now I have to go out and buy a damn Badger,                                 just cause he said...]

If I could add a bit here re: Future, it can be use to attach clear parts just give it plenty of drying time before you handle the part(s). It is good stuff as it self-levels, so the odds of a blob of "glue" is minimized, and if any cleanup is needed,  Windex makes it easy too.

Thanks fellas. lol

Ok folks. I shot the rear wheels with a coat of Molotow and I've gotta say that I'm impressed. I'll be letting this dry over the weekend as well so when I come back I'll shoot the clear coat of Spaz Stix on to seal them off.



The decal on the bed flooring turned out pretty dang good too and laid down nicely over the molded in detail.

Joe, those rims look awesome. Fill me in. Did you decant and AB? Any thinner used? Did you strip the chrome as it comes with the kit?

The decal looks good too!

Heya Steve, 

The wheels are resin from Competition Resins. The OOB wheels are 24” wheels so no chance of me using those!! Lol

 I used Molotow Chrome from a refill bottle. All I did was drop some in a paint cup (no thinner) and shoot it on and DONT touch or handle it. The idea is to let it cure out for 48 hours and then clear coat it. This months Scale Auto is DEFINITELY worth the time to read as it’s got several great “how-to” articles with one of them being about the usage of Molotow chrome. Clear coating with Spaz Stix’s Ultimate Clear is supposed to preserve the Molotow‘s chrome appearance while making the surface able to be handled by hand. 

Whoa there son.....

Where did you come up with the idea to spray the Molotow refill? Have you done it before? Did you strip the wheels first?

I have the pens, I don't think I bought any refills.

Heya Greg, I got the idea from Scale Auto. Pick this months magazine up. It says “4 Barrel” on the front of the cover in regards to 4 How-To Articles. 

This is my first time doing this and the wheels were bare resin parts that needed some clean up and drill out. Refills come in 30ml bottles. 

Hmmm....

So how'd it stick to the resin?

Ta for the info.

Perfectly!! No troubles so far.

mustang1989

Heya Steve, 

The wheels are resin from Competition Resins. The OOB wheels are 24” wheels so no chance of me using those!! Lol

 I used Molotow Chrome from a refill bottle. All I did was drop some in a paint cup (no thinner) and shoot it on and DONT touch or handle it. The idea is to let it cure out for 48 hours and then clear coat it. This months Scale Auto is DEFINITELY worth the time to read as it’s got several great “how-to” articles with one of them being about the usage of Molotow chrome. Clear coating with Spaz Stix’s Ultimate Clear is supposed to preserve the Molotow‘s chrome appearance while making the surface able to be handled by hand. 

 

Sweet! The Molotow chrome worked wonders. The wheels really do look outstanding. Also glad to see that the bed decal layed down so nicely. To me, that had iffy written all over it. Overall the truck is looking absolutely amazing. You are doing some terrific work.

mustang1989

Perfectly!! No troubles so far.

 

I'll be darned. Thanks, Joe.

Hey Joe, looks like great progress.  The wheels look great and the truck looks slick as glass.  Nice work.  

Thanks fellas! Still on this one and am in the final stages of assy. Will post photos of the finished product soon hopefully...............fingers crossed.

Ok folks , after two hours of working on it this morning since 3 a.m. I've got this thing within putting distance. I've got everything done but the tail lights and rear bumper................and of course the final polish and finish up.

With that being said I figured, "What tha heck" and decided to post a couple of spoiler shots.

Glad to see you closing in on the finish. As is, it is a marvelous piece of workmanship. I'm excited to see this after all the finishing touches. 

Here to almost at the finish line. 

Thanks fellas. I can't tell you how much fun this one has been even with some of the issues this kit has.

Hey Joe, that looks sweet! Awesome work there, Friend-O.

Just checking in on the project. Yep, looking good!

Max

Thanks fellas!!

A couple of years ago I decided to re-visit an old childhood fave of mine. I was drawn to the Street Demons series and even more drawn to the 56 Ford F-100 offering in that series. I ended up doing a total revamp of that kit when I did sit down to have a "second go" at that kit. Little did I remember just how awful that kit really was (or was it that it didn't really matter at such a young age----I just built it) but I did end up finding out that kit really had its challenges. After completing the revamp kit in 2015 I found out that I'd learned a valuable lesson in my adult modeling in regards to just how far I'm going to go with detailing a kit and more importantly how much money NOT to throw at a build. I detailed it to the point that I dread handling it every time I pick it up to take it to shows or if I have to do a photo shoot like you'll see below.
To flash forward to around August of last year, I'd been wanting to build another 56 for a while and then along came the Foose 56 F-100. Man............the body was totally tweaked and the appearance of this truck was so much sleeker than the original F-100's were. So with that I purchased a Revell Foose FD-100 kit. 

 

My imagination went into overdrive at the possibilities. I had Thomas over at Speedway Decals go to work on fabricating the slides I'd need to pull this, more refined Demon version, off.
I kept the power and drive train and made some modifications to the rear suspension to narrow the rear end and lower it even more while retaining all of the original four link suspension parts. I had to cut the bed and make fender wells for the much wider tires that were to go in the rear. I tried to detail the engine up as much as I could using all of the OOB parts for the engine. I didn't want to have to modify this and modify that to retain the original look of the Roush engine (which is one of the best engines I've built modeling wise-save for that stupid hole in the oil pan for the metal axle to pass throughfacepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif ) I turned to Weld Draglites once again for this this newer version. The front wheels are from a Revell Pro Stock Camaro kit and the rears are from Competition Resins with a coat of Molotow Chrome shot through an airbrush and cleared with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. After that a coat of Tamiya Smoke was airbrushed onto all wheels to tone down the "toy chrome" look.
Paint is Testors Semi Gloss Black as a base color with Testors "Wet Look" clear bringin' up the shine. Both were decanted and shot through an airbrush to get the smoothest results possible. Flame masks from Anarchy Models and Alclad II Polished Aluminum ensured a nice smooth flame job. The "Foose" lettering was removed from the tail gate and F-O-R-D lettering was applied in its place.
If I had any words of caution about this kit I would say that the interior tub needs to be installed BEFORE setting the cab down onto the truck frame and to make sure to test fit the hood AFTER installing the radiator core support brace. I test fitted it before installing it and it fit perfect ...........only to find out that it didn't afterwards. Some gentle sanding cleaned it up enough to fit in the end. Also............make SURE then engine is all the way down in the mount slots provided. I had to risk and "all or nothing" attempt at forcing it straight and luckily I got by with it. facepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif Overall I was very happy with this kit as it's a solid build that takes to handling well and it just felt like everything "clicked" together unlike a lot of the older kits that I tend to build...........especially with any mods.

With all that being said, here's the finishing shots:

 Once put along side the original "Demon I" (which the front plate on it reads Demon 3 in the series of 6-I didn't know two years ago that I'd be building another one) the differences are painfully obvious in the overall shape of the truck-particularly in the areas of the fenders , grille area and cab height). I took full advantage of these differences to make a more aggressive looking pro street truck this time around.

Side by side shot: (Sorry folks, the ol' 429 Boss truck just has to be in the lead )

Excellent! That thing looks real! Good job for sure.

Max

Beautiful, just beautiful Joe.

It looks real. Black is a bear to photograph, not saying you did badly, you did grrrrrreat.....but I'll bet it looks even better in person.

Your attention to detail paid off, as we've come to expect, in your finished product.

Thank you for sharing the building of this one.

Bad ass!  How about a holeshot diorama?

Dang Joe  Don’t worry 'bout photos. Those two look Awesome 

Great way to show a variation on a theme 

Thanks Max, Greg, John and Steve.

Greg: It did take a few passes before I got the photos right. I had to play around with the lighting (3 different lamps-one from each side and one directly overhead) and then edit the photos out to lighten it up a bit, and then of course....croping.

John: LOL! No holeshot diorama yet bud. I don't want to ruin the model by building sucky figures. Figures are NOT my strongpoint.

Dang Joe, that is Awesome!