Italeri Cadillac

I'm a fan of anything Cadillac !

Cant wait to see where you take this one.

Don Stauffer

The plugs are in the valley, and there is a cover over the valley.  So I just ran a bunch of wires from the distributer down under the cover.

But ... but ... how will the "Rivit counter's " know if their correct ?

The box art alone makes me want to have one.

I have been stuck on the body for a few weeks. I'm a little concerned about the fit on the four pieces that make up the body. It is aneat looking car. My favorite cars are from the 20's and 30's.

Very cool, Don. I'd like to get something like that on my shelf. Those old cars had/have so much personality.

Looking forward to this. I have a Johan Caddy kit I just started.

That's nice looking. According to scalemates it's originally a Monogram kit from 1980. That kit was reissued by Monogram with chrome and gold plated parts in 1989 "no painting required".

The Italeri rebox also changed the model named from 1932 to 1933.

Got the frame and running gear done.

Looking good Don.  Built a couple of the old monogram kits as a boy.  The 32 Cadillac comes to mind.  

Looking good. If I hadn't broken my right hand I'd be working on mine.

keavdog

Looking good Don.  Built a couple of the old monogram kits as a boy.  The 32 Cadillac comes to mind.  

 

I just found another Monogram kit in my stash.  It is a Dusenberg.  I think they offered a couple of different Dusies.  This one is in a bag, I obviously bought it at a swap meet.  Hope everything is there.

Coming along nicely, Don.  I too have put together a few of the classic Monogram car kits.

Looks good Don. I also had built a few Monogram kits. I still have the Duesenberg I built back when my wife and I were first married in the early 70's. I've kept that and a 28 Lincoln I built back then too ( maybe an AMT kit, don't really recall), and a Revell Top Fuel dragster. Those three are all I have left from way back when. I think a few parts have dropped off over the years though but still in the box.

oldermodelguy

Looks good Don. I also had built a few Monogram kits. I still have the Duesenberg I built back when my wife and I were first married in the early 70's. I've kept that and a 28 Lincoln I built back then too ( maybe an AMT kit, don't really recall), and a Revell Top Fuel dragster. Those three are all I have left from way back when. I think a few parts have dropped off over the years though but still in the box.

 

The 28 Lincoln is a MPC kit. AMT reissued it after their parent company acquired MPC molds.

midnightprowler

 

 

oldermodelguy

Looks good Don. I also had built a few Monogram kits. I still have the Duesenberg I built back when my wife and I were first married in the early 70's. I've kept that and a 28 Lincoln I built back then too ( maybe an AMT kit, don't really recall), and a Revell Top Fuel dragster. Those three are all I have left from way back when. I think a few parts have dropped off over the years though but still in the box.

 

 

 

 

The 28 Lincoln is a MPC kit. AMT reissued it after their parent company acquired MPC molds.

 

Ya, the box is long gone but I'm pretty sure the 28 Lincoln box said AMT on it, no proof though. My memory is that it went together very nicely who ever the maker was.. This one is the roadster fwiw and the scale seems accurate on everthing.

I would like to build the touring car sometime though.

Got the cowl on (which includes the dash).

The wood area was done with a base of flat yellow, with drybrushing flat brown on top, then two coats of Testors clear lacquer (brushed on).

Nice Don ! Glad you explained the dash finish, I was wondering how you did it. What paint is on the fenders and cowl ?

oldermodelguy

Nice Don ! Glad you explained the dash finish, I was wondering how you did it. What paint is on the fenders and cowl ?

 

Tamiya TS-14 spray can.

Looks great.

Looking good Don. I'm doing that kit in light tav body with brown fenders. The Monogram 1931 kit is also nice. Those cars were built in very small numbers as it was during the "Great Depression" and very few had the money to buy "highh end" cars. There is a 1931 like the Monogram box art in the Cleveland Ohio Crawford Auto and Aviation Museum. The information I have is that there were only three of these cars made in 1931. I would assume that there were very few 1934 models as well. The same would be true for Deusenbergs and Auburns and Cords of that vintage. Monogram made a nice Deusy and Cord, but I don't know about any Auburns, Anyone? 

I have a 1:1 scale 1931 Ford Tudor on the drawing board that will have a modern chassie and drive train as well as all the modern electronics, phone sync, backup camera, etc. The drive train would be a turbo charged 4 cylinder from a Focus, six speed manual trans, rack and pinion steering, etc. This would NOT be a "Hot Rod", but a modern 1931 Ford. I know, I'm Crazy!!! I love those old model A's.

I'll send you a picture of all the cables that run along the ceiling of a B-17G. There are engine control cables, flying surface control cables, etc. I have been going through my "Stuff" and came across some old pictures I took. 

Got seats in and wheels on while still trying to get that perfect gloss black paint job on body panels.  I think a good gloss black and gloss white are about the hardest paint jobs to do well.

Ditto, gloss black and gloss white paint jobs are difficult. I find it helps to use a white primer under white paint and a dark gray primer under the black. I spray into a BOOTH that has been sprayed with a cheap clear coat to hold down any dust, and then spray on several light coats and let them get tacky before the next coat. The final coat is put on WET, but not so much as to run. When I'm done spraying I cover the booth with a thin plastic drop cloth to keep out dust, cat hair, etc. and let it dry for a couple of weeks. On larger models, say a 1/16 scale car I would use lacquer and cut and buff it after it dries. The kits made for this work really well. Enamel can be sanded and buffed but it has to be fully dry. Yellow is another color that is difficult. Note that there are lacquers made for plastic and will not "eat it" or otherwise attack it and cause it to wrinkle or craze. You can also use a sealer that will protect the plastic from the lacquer. Keep in mind that the more coats you put on the more you can cover up or fill in details. 

Don, for any details molded into the seats you can use a wash that is a hair darker than the gray you used and bring out the details. They say it ain't a Cadillac unless its long and black. 

I used to like Pactra enamel rattle cans  when they were up and running way back when for my old cars, classics etc.. A notch above Testors at the time IMO, at least for straight up colors with no clear coats or transulscent coats. Pactra Black was always good.

With lacquer I'm guessing you will have to rub the coating out to get to the finish you want. These old classics IMO should be rubbed to a certain point, not brought up to look like a glassy pond or dripping crystal, a natural look should be not hazy but also not look like it has 10 coats of clear over it either. Again , IMO.

At one time AMT sold lacquer based paint for model cars as did Revell. Pactra sold "DOPE" for model airplanes, that is stick and tissue models, and enamels for plastic models. There is a company, the name escapes me for the moment, that sells paint to match OEM colors for model cars and I believe it is lacquer based. Floquil had a great line of paints for model rail roaders and had a great sealer to protect plastic from the lacquer. Humbrol enamels give a good finish that has that older car look, that is glossy, but not to glossy. The high gloss finish started in the 60s with the advent of acrylic lacques and acrylic enamels. And the "new" automotive finishes are base coat/clear coat. The clear coat prevents the acid rain from turning the metalic particles in the metalic paint from turning black, and gives a high gloss shine. On a pre 1960s car that is not being painted as a show car I tone down the paint with a clear coat that is about 80%to 90% clear gloss, and 10% to 20% flat gloss. 

I do not think I would tone down the gloss on a Cadillac because the person who could afford one of those could afford to pay someone to rub it out and wax it!!!!!

Said with tongue in cheek and a bit cheeky. Looking good Don.

Looking good.

I didn't used to be into these kinds of rides until I went through Dicks Classic Car Museum in San Marcos, Texas last year. There were ALOT of vehicles like this in there and I was really drawn to one particular car which was the 1931 Cadillac 452A V-16. Beautiful car.

Really good work going on with this one Don.

rangerj

There is a company, the name escapes me for the moment, that sells paint to match OEM colors for model cars and I believe it is lacquer based.

Those are flats, it needs a clear gloss coat.

Got the windows in, and the door panels (body sides) installed.  Gluing in the windows was a bear of a job because the width of the flanges on both windows and door panels was microscopic!  Had to do it several times, cleaning out gunk in between.  Also got the right hood panel glued in.  That will hold the radiator shell. Leaving the left side off to display engine.  Only major work now is adding radiator shell, top, and a myriad of chrome bling (lights, luggage racks, spare tire mounts, etc).

Hung up now waiting trip to hobby shop.  I tried a Molotow chrome pen for window and windshield surrounds.  Didn't quite do the job.  Decided to use chrome bare metal foil.  I don't think my local hobby shop carries it- need to go halfway across metro area :-(

Nice looking kit Don.