well, here's a very stupid question....

here jim...here's a couple more pages from my bible!!! its so simple even a caveman could do it...

it mentions using scotchbrite to "clean it up"...that's up to the person doing it in my opinion. i never use it...just my files and have 0 problems!! i also NEVER use nippers on resin...you have no control and can damage the part way too easily. the few minutes it may take to saw is worth not screwing up what your doing. get yourself an exacto-saw and cut down to where you feel comfortable then use an exacto-blade to shave small pieces then file/sand the remainder. use scotchbrite if ya feel that's for ya.

camo junkie wrote:

and no offense, but if you CANT do it...you might as well hang it up and end it all because its so easy anyone can do it i assure you.

eeeeeek!!! Ahh!! ....

lol, but yeah, it's not that hard. I recommend (if you plan on doing a lot of 1/35 or especially if you start doing 1/16 scale resin figures) investing in a dremel tool with a fine grit sanding attachment. It really takes a lot of the work out of removing the large chunks of resin. Not as much fine control as a saw in the upper speeds, but if you start slow and get a hang of it, you can end up working the parts with the speed pretty high to quickly blow through the excess resin. You can always stop before you get too close, then switch over to a grit sandpaper of your choice for the detail work. If you do chose to sand over saw- be aware, you’ll be throwing a ton of sawdust size resin pieces and a fine dust will cover everything- so only go at it if it’s a nice day outside or if you got a nice shop vac- and make sure no models are laying around!

Other than that, the only difference between resin and plastic is the need for super glue, and the fact that it’s almost always required that you prime the piece well before painting. The same rules for filling gaps (however there’re usually no “seems” that need trimming) applies.

PS! Good pictures as usual camo!

psstoff995 wrote:

camo junkie wrote: and no offense, but if you CANT do it...you might as well hang it up and end it all because its so easy anyone can do it i assure you. eeeeeek!!! Ahh!! .... lol, but yeah, it's not that hard. I recommend (if you plan on doing a lot of 1/35 or especially if you start doing 1/16 scale resin figures) investing in a dremel tool with a fine grit sanding attachment. It really takes a lot of the work out of removing the large chunks of resin. Not as much fine control as a saw in the upper speeds, but if you start slow and get a hang of it, you can end up working the parts with the speed pretty high to quickly blow through the excess resin. You can always stop before you get too close, then switch over to a grit sandpaper of your choice for the detail work. If you do chose to sand over saw- be aware, you’ll be throwing a ton of sawdust size resin pieces and a fine dust will cover everything- so only go at it if it’s a nice day outside or if you got a nice shop vac- and make sure no models are laying around! Other than that, the only difference between resin and plastic is the need for super glue, and the fact that it’s almost always required that you prime the piece well before painting. The same rules for filling gaps (however there’re usually no “seems” that need trimming) applies. PS! Good pictures as usual camo!

i told you i have a pic for almost everything!!!

and jim, u can use a dremel if that's what u like too...just way too messy like p.o. says...y i dont use it!!

btw p.o., that quote you did of me...lol....well...its true isnt it...might as well hang up the phone....LOL.

JWalker wrote:

A good tip I picked up in Art school...when painting eyes or teeth. The whites of the eyes should be only as white as the lightest highlight of the flesh. So pretty much never use plain white for the whites of eyes or teeth.

96-

I hope that you're writing this stuff down .... this is all good information that you really won't find in books. Like camo said before, some people aren't all that great about sharing information. I've found this to be mostly true b/c people tend to develop thier own tricks/ ways and don't really want to spill thier secrets. Some techniques might have taken years to perfect!

So that's why I said I hope you're writing this stuff down. If there's one thing that I've found in modeling, its this ...

You can learn different techniques from lots of people. You can even do something EXACTLY the same way as someone else .... but its going to come out different for YOU. Modeling isn't about following instructions and color guides. Its about ingenuity .... in all aspects.

You started all right by buying some figures to play with and test out techinques with. Just dive into it .... I promise you'll be suprised at how fast you'll get better.

Keep listening to these guys .... they learned from the best! HAHAHAHA!!!!

modelchasm wrote:

96- I hope that you're writing this stuff down .... this is all good information that you really won't find in books. Like camo said before, some people aren't all that great about sharing information. I've found this to be mostly true b/c people tend to develop thier own tricks/ ways and don't really want to spill thier secrets. Some techniques might have taken years to perfect! So that's why I said I hope you're writing this stuff down. If there's one thing that I've found in modeling, its this ... You can learn different techniques from lots of people. You can even do something EXACTLY the same way as someone else .... but its going to come out different for YOU. Modeling isn't about following instructions and color guides. Its about ingenuity .... in all aspects. You started all right by buying some figures to play with and test out techinques with. Just dive into it .... I promise you'll be suprised at how fast you'll get better. Keep listening to these guys .... they learned from the best! HAHAHAHA!!!!

Admittedly, I have a lot of difficulty doing flesh tone shading on figures.  I purchased a set of six flesh tones in acrylic from Andrea and I suppose with lots of practice, they would work well, but I didn't have much luck with it.  I found that spraying a medium flesh base coat with an airbrush and then very sparingly adding lighter and darker tones of the same color for the shadows works well.  Also, I have actually used real ladies' makeup powders for the shadings, instead of paint.  This worked out well for me- you can also use powdered pastels brushed on and worked in with your finger, very lightly.  Be careful not to overdo it- natural lighting will enhance your work with real shadows, which is why photos sometimes look better than the actual model.

Here's my best work to date- a resin Wonder Woman, by sculptor Vance Rudzinskas.

Thanks Cadet Chuck! nice figure

And now I got another question for you guys, what is the best stuff to use for dry fitting figures together? I tried modeling clay, but it just got everywere and then I had to spend forever getting it off

When I dry-fit, I use nothing. Just placing them quickly togheter to see fit...

When I test-fit them, I use a small, tiny drop of glue. Mainly CA glue.

96,

Sorry for the wait ... The "pin method" takes small pieces of pieces of paperclips, straight pins, wire ... whatever you want to use. Drill a small hole, in the case of attaching an arm, in the torso where the arm connects. Then, take a fine point sharpie, and draw a cross/ plus sign where the arm will connect with the hole being where the cross crosses itself. Then take the arm and place it on the torso in the position that you want it. Then take the sharpie again and make small dots on the arm where you see the lines coming on that you drew on the torso. Take the arm off and then connect the dots, making another cross on the arm this time. Drill the hole in the arm where the cross crosses itself. Now take your pin, I usually cut it after I glue it to one side ... after it dries of course. Glue in one side, then mount the arm with a little glue and BAM! ... your done.

Sounds like a long process, but it is really pretty quick and will definately strengthen you figure. I do this on ALL connections for my figures. Feet, legs, torso, arms, head ... everything.

Hope this helps.

model maniac 96 wrote:

Thanks a bunch camo junkie! I think I will start using oils for the eyes. Again, Thanks a bunch, Jim

again jim u can use acrylic paint and pretty much achieve the same results if your careful. what i love about oils is if you make a mistake they can easily be removed and redone because they dont dry right away. basically only have to "wipe" them away and redo it. the acrylics u can do the same thing only u need water to "remove" any mistake and u might if u'r not careful remove your flesh tones from the face/eyes! just a thought anyway jim.

camo junkie wrote:

vallejo has an "offwhite" that i used to use that looked convincing. u may want to try that since u use the acrylics! rather than "paint" the whites with a brush...

Even better than "off-white", try 70837 "Pale Sand". It's light enough to show a difference, but not so contrasty as to give your figures "panda eyes".

never thought of that but i see your point phil...thanks!