The long awaited figure tutorial

Sounds like you're reffering to 1/48 or 1/72 figures. They are harder to sculpt than 1/35 (about 5cm tall) so if you do want to try your own sculpting, it would be a good idea to start with larger figures.

To begin with, sculpy is not the thing to use - it's basically glorified play-doh. What you want is a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or Apoxy Sculpt - epoxy is smoother, easier to work, and cures much stronger than any play-with clay will. Best of all, epoxy putty is water-soluble before it cures, so you can wet your tools to make your job easier.

You'll need special tools to sculpt fine detail - I use a dental pick with one flat end (similar in shape to a flat toothpick) and one rounded, pointed end. A cosmetic orange stick sanded to shape also works. The good old #11 blade isn't that useful for sculpting, so if you were trying to use one of those, it's no wonder it isn't working.

Faces are about the hardest thing there is to scuplt, I'd recommend using pre-made heads until you get very good at sculpting - even I can't do very good heads yet. It is all done by hand in most cases, so there's really no quick and easy altenative.

Plastic figures are made by injecting a metal mold with liquid plastic, than adding a hardener to make it cure. Resin figures are made by pouring a two-part epoxy resin into a rubber mold. Since the rubber is more flexible than steel, figures cast in rubber molds are usually better detailed and in fewer pieces because the rubber mold can have undercuts. You can buy casting resin and RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber online or at good hobby stores, however a good starter kit will cost around $50 and only contain enough rubber to make molds for about 7 figures. The molds must be designed very well, too, or they won't work.

I think your best bet right now would be to buy some plastic figures and practice modifying them using epoxy putty. You should learn how to sculpt well before you attempt an entire figure from scratch, because then you not only have to worry about the details, but all the proportions must be exact as well.

 Hermesminiatures

After creating my own 2.3 cm high human figures out of wire and < sculpy> clay, ...about 2 weeks of difficult, tiny  sculpture , uniforms, canteens , ammunition belt , etc ... I  found that my work is NOTHING when compared to the exquisite figures that can be purchased ready made !

My curiousity is sparked by the enormous detail ...eyes, mouth, expressions that appear on faces 2.5 mm hig ..really detailed exquisite work for ready-made figures.

QUESTION:
1.  How are such tiny detals added to human figures only 2.3 cm high ?

2. Even IF the figures are reproductions of a prototype:
how is the prototype made wth such fine detail ?

3. Finally: What process is used to manufacture the production  "mold" for  2.3 cm high figures?

Thank you  for ANY information or answers ! !

falconeye  

You can order them from ausfwerks.com. I've never heard of this technique being used with enamels, although technically it could be as long as you let the paint fully cure before applying the next layer. Since applying a mixture containing a lot of thinner over an uncured layer will often lift the first layer, you would have to wait at least a day in between layers. Also, most enamels wouldn't have the same properties as Vallejo acrylics.

So technically, it could work with enamels, but it would take weeks to shade a single figure and probably wouldn't work as well.

I've been pretty busy lately but I'm almost done with it. Should be posted within a week if things go as planned.

Also, I'm going to be pretty upset if somebody doesn't actually start posting some photos of all the figures that they were so eager to paint when I started this tutorial....you've already got all the needed info to start painting!

Hey, we are still waiting on pins and needles for part 4!!!  Any idea when it will be posted?

Thanx's

Dougums wrote:

And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases.

For a figure that's to be displayed by itself, I mount them on a 2 inch cube from Michael's. I stain it, add groundwork et voila, a base. If you want to display it next to a piece of armor, they also have 1/8 inch circles and other shapes. These can be painted  and will allow you to give your display as sense of scale. The blocks sell for a dollar and the smaller pieces less, I believe. Running a piece of brass rod or even paper clip up the heel allows you to drill a hole in the base to make the figure more stable.

    Thanks for the tip ajlafleche! I will give it a try.

    And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases. 

Dougums wrote:

Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.   Doug

To check on properly aligned eyes, I keep a small mirror on my bench. When I've added the irises, I look at the face in the mirror. I don't understand why that makes it easier to see the alignment, but it does. It's like when you get your haircut, the barber/stylist is watching your reflection more than directly at you.

Hermesminiatures wrote:

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Thanks, I'll be watching for those!

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Hermes - Thanks again for putting this together.  The third installment is great.  I have worked with glazes before and I really enjoy watching the figure come to life.  Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.

Hermesminiatures wrote:

The key to learning this, like most of the other techniques, is practice, practice, practice.

Ain't that the truth

Doug 

Hermesminiatures wrote:

So, anybody still following this? I was kind of surprised to hear no Part 3 questions...

I'm still here!  After reading part 3, I had some questions about glazes.  Before I asked them, I wanted to look at the photos again but that was when Photobucket went all skrewy!

I read your descriptions about the glazes, but having never tried it- I am hesitant to give them a whirl.  DO you have any other photos that show the progression of shading using them, or perhaps a photo showing a typical glaze in a cup/on a tray so I can get a better feel for their consistency?

Thanks for the toot, and the help!

An excellent tutorial so far,

I will be keeping an eye on this one. I've tried painting faces with acrylics but failed miserably. The shading thing threw me for a loop. The mini gallery was a great idea. I've already picked up a few pointers that I always rush thru, the prep work. So I would like to thank you for sharing this tutorial.

Here are some of my figures painted with Vallejo and Citadel acrylics:

Read a figure tutorial and it says "acrylics when are dry are just too dry and unrealistique for flesh color on figures, enermals are better canse there smooth..." 

Well it doesn't really matter the paint use on the figure as look as it looks good, it just eyes and shadows that I can't do right, as well as highlights.

Great stuff there, Al.

Hermes...how's part 3 coming? Still recovering from those bike rides?