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This is cool. Where do you get the paint? Is it a spray can paint? How much is it? I'd like to use csome on one of my carmodels.
Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.
Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986
1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54
Ask me about Speedway Decals
It's "Alclad II Lacquer which I've never seen in a spray can and I think my LHS charges MSRP, at 19.99 for one fluid ounce.
The switch was located upon a shelf beneath the hinged panel and a spring was put in place to keep that panel up and snug even when the switch is depressed. Simple is always best.
Here's the base colors which will be cleaned up and then the clear coats with pearls and flip/flops will be shot. The upper surface "silver" is aluminum while the sides are "steel" although you can't really tell from the lighting. I'll use different pearls to accentuate that further.
I wound up just putting a "satin" clear coat over the base. I reconsidered the pearls and flip/flops I had planned and decided not to "detract" from the model itself with too flashy of a base. As I start to finalize wiring within the base I snapped a pic just to show the combo of the BOP mounted upon the stand.
Did some trimming and refitting of the bird caused by the mods to the hull of course. Now it's on and just awaits cleanup and a nice clear coat.
Well, When we last tuned in the BOP was nearing completion after receiving it's decals. Only a nice clearcoat and we'd be off to the final steps. THEN, it happened.The BIRD BLEW UP!Despite JT Graphics own instructions that Testors lacquer clear was recommended- it BLEW UP!Initially I carefully wetsanded the small "puckered" areas and even touched them up with a color match, rewetsanded and carefully cleared. It actually turned out as nearly invisible fixes to the problem. But of course, a couple of areas required more sanding than they could support and eventual cut through occurred again.Not anxious to simply risk repeating it all over again- I broke out the frisket material and started cutting away.Here's the new bird before it's clearcoating which shouldn't be a problem- it's all in lacquer now and I can account for that. So while not yet trimmed out- here's the current state without shine.It's all done with pearls, shading and overlays so the hue is highly dependent upon the angle and light source and of course will improve once cleared.
Originally I examined the kit pieces and saw that they were trying to emulate the "bulbous" appearance at the front of the nacelles. For all I know the original studio model might have used "bulbs" up there. It's not a simple 'half-sphere'. I did try to separate the glass bulb of an automotive lamp from the metal base and cracked a few. So, frankly I gave up on that idea. But it's always bothered me? Well, over sixteen bulbs later I have finally done exactly that. Two, from nearly twenty attempts but I think it will look better.
Snapped some quick "quasi finished shots":And here's the lighting: The engines:And the seperate rear modes. When on the "thrusters" ,they flicker:And the weapon although it was hard to catch as the outside LEDs fade in and then the middle bursts as they outers dim.The decal fiasco delayed it by a week- and of course caused a lot of extra effort but I hope you like the results!Thanks to those dropping in and especially anyone who has been following along. It's been fun and now this one is looking for a home!
Beautiful!
Well thank you very much Mr. Nocturnal Perambulator!
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