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Things to think about... What would happen if you put a werewolf on the moon? h is just a little chair and the human brain named itself!
Ingenious drill mechanism!
Toshi
On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell
Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world. Mrs. Toshi
Would anyone be interested in these? Been sitting on these for awhile now, since the release of the Japanese Prototype photos a few months back, but wasn't sure if DeAgo was going to release the Landing Gear Bay Doors or not. Well, here's my accurized doors that I hope everyone will be able to use. Please lemme know what you think!Open Landing Gear Bay Tri-Doors: http://shpws.me/MVzo
That it does. I hate having to measure all the time. Figured this would help alot more and it really does. Makes finding the starting of your dril holes soooooooo much easier!
Clever idea there with the drill guide. Seems like it would make things pretty much fool-proof!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Ok folks... time to add a new update to my build. I've been getting alot of questions about my new corridor sconce light sets on Shapeways. I made them because all the offerings so far (PE/SW) have all been too large! You should be able to fit 5 lights per large cushion. All the offerings so far you can only fit 3-4. That don't cut it for my OCD!
They both (the ESB and ANH versions) come with this little tool I designed called the Drill Guide. But yet, no one can figure out how to use it. I painted it with primer so it's easy to see... It's really simple to use... here's how: First things first, identify the top of each cushion that needs a light on it. On the back mark the top position so you don't forget. Then, take the edge of my tool and place it on the top edge as shown and push it against the surface of the cushion. Rub it back and forth creating a very light mark on the plastic (not so hard it does damage, and not so light you can't see it). You can prepaint the cushion whatever color you want and it'll make the marking a bit easier as well... Next, dip the pointed marker ends in a little bit of paint (doesn't really matter what kind, I like to use watercolor or arcylic paint here because it can be removed easily if I make a mistake. Next, touch the painted tips to the surface along the line you "rubbed" into the cushion previously. Just a dot of paint is all you need. These will be the drill points where you will drill a hole. Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below! Convex Cushion: Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
They both (the ESB and ANH versions) come with this little tool I designed called the Drill Guide.
But yet, no one can figure out how to use it. I painted it with primer so it's easy to see... It's really simple to use... here's how: First things first, identify the top of each cushion that needs a light on it. On the back mark the top position so you don't forget. Then, take the edge of my tool and place it on the top edge as shown and push it against the surface of the cushion. Rub it back and forth creating a very light mark on the plastic (not so hard it does damage, and not so light you can't see it). You can prepaint the cushion whatever color you want and it'll make the marking a bit easier as well... Next, dip the pointed marker ends in a little bit of paint (doesn't really matter what kind, I like to use watercolor or arcylic paint here because it can be removed easily if I make a mistake. Next, touch the painted tips to the surface along the line you "rubbed" into the cushion previously. Just a dot of paint is all you need. These will be the drill points where you will drill a hole. Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below! Convex Cushion: Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
But yet, no one can figure out how to use it. I painted it with primer so it's easy to see... It's really simple to use... here's how:
First things first, identify the top of each cushion that needs a light on it. On the back mark the top position so you don't forget. Then, take the edge of my tool and place it on the top edge as shown and push it against the surface of the cushion. Rub it back and forth creating a very light mark on the plastic (not so hard it does damage, and not so light you can't see it). You can prepaint the cushion whatever color you want and it'll make the marking a bit easier as well...
Next, dip the pointed marker ends in a little bit of paint (doesn't really matter what kind, I like to use watercolor or arcylic paint here because it can be removed easily if I make a mistake. Next, touch the painted tips to the surface along the line you "rubbed" into the cushion previously. Just a dot of paint is all you need. These will be the drill points where you will drill a hole. Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below! Convex Cushion: Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Next, dip the pointed marker ends in a little bit of paint (doesn't really matter what kind, I like to use watercolor or arcylic paint here because it can be removed easily if I make a mistake.
Next, touch the painted tips to the surface along the line you "rubbed" into the cushion previously. Just a dot of paint is all you need. These will be the drill points where you will drill a hole. Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below! Convex Cushion: Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Next, touch the painted tips to the surface along the line you "rubbed" into the cushion previously. Just a dot of paint is all you need. These will be the drill points where you will drill a hole.
Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below! Convex Cushion: Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Some have worried about how it will work with the convex or concave cushions, well never fear, just by tilting it sideways you can still get a good point mark on those cushions easily as you can see below!
Convex Cushion:
Concave Cushion: You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Concave Cushion:
You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later. Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
You should now have perfectly spaced dots on each cushion. 5 for the large cushions (try to center them as best you can), 3-4 for the medium cushions and only 1 for the small ones. Now, you want to prepare your holes for drilling, so, take a sharp hobby knife and prep your drill holes. You don't want to make these too big, just large enough to give the drill bit something to grab onto as you start drilling your holes. Make the starter holes for each pin point marking you made earlier. Try to be as precise as possible in this step. If you move off the first line you made it'll show later.
Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes. Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Next you want to take a small drill bit (here I got a 1/16th) and begin drilling the holes in each cushion where you made your marking starter holes.
Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it. The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Now that you got all your small holes drilled, you have 2 options here. #1 you can begin gluing and drilling the large holes all the way thru both the cushion and the corridor parts or #2 you can set the part on the corridor and using the small holes drill thru the corridor. I chose the second option here because my larger drill isn't very delicate, so I have to be careful when I drill with it.
The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit. Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
The drill bit to use for my corridor lights will be a 5/16th inch or 3.8mm bit.
Yes I know, an extra step! LOL Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
Yes I know, an extra step! LOL
Now that all the holes are drilled you're ready to install the lights. Hope this helps and enjoy! :)
GameraYou should have let the Wookie win C3P0 and he wouldn't have ripped your arms off! Nice work on the droids, I guess they could make a bigger R2 for an X-Wing right>
Thanks bro... yeah, I think R2 set up for that one I suppose... I dunno why 3PO is always falling apart... maybe because Anakin really didn't know what he was doing! LOL I've got a 1:43 R2 and 3PO as well. I can make them just about any size... One of the nice things about making this stuff in 3D! :)
LrdSatyr8
You should have let the Wookie win C3P0 and he wouldn't have ripped your arms off!
Nice work on the droids, I guess they could make a bigger R2 for an X-Wing right>
Fine job! I visited your SW shop and was stoked by all the figs you've worked up. I appreciate that you've also made 1/48 scale versions for those of us working on the Hasbro Rebels Falcon. Obviously, you're having fun with this project. Keep it up!
Regards, Robert
Well I had a 4 day weekend thanks to the holidays and spent them hand painting and assembling my droids I made for Shapeways. First up was my 1:48 R2. I was very pleased that everything fit together so nice an snug. Didn't even have to use any glue on him at all. He comes with 3 legs and I can position him with either 3 or 2 legs. I will probably not even include him in my diorama at all, but I love this little guy.
Told ya he was tiny, can fit him on a dime, almost so tiny that it's hard to get him to be in focus with my phone camera. But once I put him inside the cargo lounge, he just shined. Really just puts things into perspective doesn't it? Well... of course I can't have R2 without his lifemate and constant companion, so I began to paint my 3PO. Of course R2 had to oversee the entire operation to make sure I did it right! Now one of the things about 3D printing is there are limits to just how small you can make things. One of these things are the pistons on his arms and legs. I had to leave them off the 3D print but they are pretty easy to replace with some stretched sprue. You take a straight piece of sprue (you know, that little frame that's left over after you cut all the model parts off of) and hold it over a candle flame until it gets really soft in the middle. Then you pull until you have the right thickness of "wire" you want. Can get really thin wires this way. So... here's the stretched sprue I used from a piece of black plastic sprue I had in my toolbox... Then I cut some straight lengths out of the thinnest area of the sprue and began to glue them to his arms and leg joints. I painted them to match the rest of him and they came out looking pretty good. Oh... R2 had to show off his 3rd leg and hopped up on an actual DIME... he's such a frisky droid. And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far. Lemme know what you think!
Told ya he was tiny, can fit him on a dime, almost so tiny that it's hard to get him to be in focus with my phone camera. But once I put him inside the cargo lounge, he just shined.
Really just puts things into perspective doesn't it? Well... of course I can't have R2 without his lifemate and constant companion, so I began to paint my 3PO. Of course R2 had to oversee the entire operation to make sure I did it right! Now one of the things about 3D printing is there are limits to just how small you can make things. One of these things are the pistons on his arms and legs. I had to leave them off the 3D print but they are pretty easy to replace with some stretched sprue. You take a straight piece of sprue (you know, that little frame that's left over after you cut all the model parts off of) and hold it over a candle flame until it gets really soft in the middle. Then you pull until you have the right thickness of "wire" you want. Can get really thin wires this way. So... here's the stretched sprue I used from a piece of black plastic sprue I had in my toolbox... Then I cut some straight lengths out of the thinnest area of the sprue and began to glue them to his arms and leg joints. I painted them to match the rest of him and they came out looking pretty good. Oh... R2 had to show off his 3rd leg and hopped up on an actual DIME... he's such a frisky droid. And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far. Lemme know what you think!
Really just puts things into perspective doesn't it? Well... of course I can't have R2 without his lifemate and constant companion, so I began to paint my 3PO. Of course R2 had to oversee the entire operation to make sure I did it right!
Now one of the things about 3D printing is there are limits to just how small you can make things. One of these things are the pistons on his arms and legs. I had to leave them off the 3D print but they are pretty easy to replace with some stretched sprue. You take a straight piece of sprue (you know, that little frame that's left over after you cut all the model parts off of) and hold it over a candle flame until it gets really soft in the middle. Then you pull until you have the right thickness of "wire" you want. Can get really thin wires this way. So... here's the stretched sprue I used from a piece of black plastic sprue I had in my toolbox... Then I cut some straight lengths out of the thinnest area of the sprue and began to glue them to his arms and leg joints. I painted them to match the rest of him and they came out looking pretty good. Oh... R2 had to show off his 3rd leg and hopped up on an actual DIME... he's such a frisky droid. And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far. Lemme know what you think!
Now one of the things about 3D printing is there are limits to just how small you can make things. One of these things are the pistons on his arms and legs. I had to leave them off the 3D print but they are pretty easy to replace with some stretched sprue. You take a straight piece of sprue (you know, that little frame that's left over after you cut all the model parts off of) and hold it over a candle flame until it gets really soft in the middle. Then you pull until you have the right thickness of "wire" you want. Can get really thin wires this way. So... here's the stretched sprue I used from a piece of black plastic sprue I had in my toolbox...
Then I cut some straight lengths out of the thinnest area of the sprue and began to glue them to his arms and leg joints. I painted them to match the rest of him and they came out looking pretty good. Oh... R2 had to show off his 3rd leg and hopped up on an actual DIME... he's such a frisky droid. And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far. Lemme know what you think!
Then I cut some straight lengths out of the thinnest area of the sprue and began to glue them to his arms and leg joints. I painted them to match the rest of him and they came out looking pretty good. Oh... R2 had to show off his 3rd leg and hopped up on an actual DIME... he's such a frisky droid.
And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far. Lemme know what you think!
And finally... the money shot... yes they both stand on their own. I haven't "permenantly" glued any of 3PO's joints together because I haven't commited to a pose just yet. So many come to mind, and I guess we'll see what happens next. Hope you all had a wonderful weekend... and are enjoying the build so far.
Lemme know what you think!
Thanks guys... she's really starting to come together nicely!
The different shades on the panels and wear to them looks fantastic! Love how she's coming out.
Looking excellent...
And so the painting has begun! I split the painting into two parts. The back half I started painting the panels. The front half I started experimenting with some weathering. I tried several different methods and if I wasn't happy with the way it came out I would wipe it off and start again. I finally settled on a Water Color wash of sorts.
Basically just black water color thinned down to water consistency. Brushed over the surface and allowed to dry for a short time (enough to let it seep into all the nooks and crannies) then wipe it off with a paper towel. I used Tamiya Weathering Pastels to makes the oils streaks along the bottom. I think the effect came out looking pretty good. What do you think?
Now, on the back half, I decided to do the "hairspray" method for the panels. I masked each panel off and began by painting each with a coat of hairspray. The kind I used doesn't matter, its just the bargian bin pump bottle, not the aerosol. Reason why is that you can unscrew the pump top off and pour the hairspray into your airbrush and use it like paint. I let it dry completely overnight then started painting each panel the proper color. I'm using the DOA Falcon Acrylic Paints... great paint set! Now I let the panels dry completely overnight. When the paints had cured, I went over each one with a water wet Q-tip and wiped it over each panel. I let that set for a few moments and then I took a toothpick and gently scratched the edges of the paint off. Some places were a bit more "weathered" then I liked, so I just touched them up with the same paint and started over. You can't use a paint brush with this method. You should only use a airbrush. Using a paintbrush will cause the hairspray to soften and will gum up the paint and look horrible then you have to start over from scratch (trust me, I KNOW! LOL). In any event, here's what the panels look like when done! To be continued...
Now, on the back half, I decided to do the "hairspray" method for the panels. I masked each panel off and began by painting each with a coat of hairspray. The kind I used doesn't matter, its just the bargian bin pump bottle, not the aerosol. Reason why is that you can unscrew the pump top off and pour the hairspray into your airbrush and use it like paint. I let it dry completely overnight then started painting each panel the proper color. I'm using the DOA Falcon Acrylic Paints... great paint set!
Now I let the panels dry completely overnight. When the paints had cured, I went over each one with a water wet Q-tip and wiped it over each panel. I let that set for a few moments and then I took a toothpick and gently scratched the edges of the paint off. Some places were a bit more "weathered" then I liked, so I just touched them up with the same paint and started over. You can't use a paint brush with this method. You should only use a airbrush. Using a paintbrush will cause the hairspray to soften and will gum up the paint and look horrible then you have to start over from scratch (trust me, I KNOW! LOL). In any event, here's what the panels look like when done! To be continued...
Now I let the panels dry completely overnight. When the paints had cured, I went over each one with a water wet Q-tip and wiped it over each panel. I let that set for a few moments and then I took a toothpick and gently scratched the edges of the paint off. Some places were a bit more "weathered" then I liked, so I just touched them up with the same paint and started over. You can't use a paint brush with this method. You should only use a airbrush. Using a paintbrush will cause the hairspray to soften and will gum up the paint and look horrible then you have to start over from scratch (trust me, I KNOW! LOL). In any event, here's what the panels look like when done!
To be continued...
GameraOh wow, that's one heck of a frame there! And love the floor lights, that's gonna look amazing with everything together and up and running.
I know right? The framing alone is beautiful! Thanks bro!
Ok... new update! I got a few parts from Shapeways and one of them was the electrical room where Han and Leia kissed (otherwise known by my friend and guy who designed it the Kissing Booth). He did a really good job on it. Only thing missing were the various wires and pipes that lined the wall randomly. But I can understand that those are really difficult to print. So, getting out my trusty epoxy putty, I made some wires and pipes as close to the movie as I could possibly get and added them to the part. Now I'm not fretting over the paint job because this area won't really be seen very well. I basically started with a base of Buffing Gun Metal (to tie the color to the rest of my interior) and then did some dry brushing of light gray, dark gray, silver and light tan weathered with pastel mud. The only lights in this section are on the panel on the wall (still need to add the fibers to it) and the overhead light. But the effect came out looking pretty phenominal. I'll let you judge for yourself. (NOTE: The light by the doorway is lit up and ready to go! :))
Wall seen in the movie (before painting the wires):
After painting the piping/wires: Unseen wall: Room Assembled: Mocked up in place (Here's how it will look when it's in place): Needless to say, it's coming together nicely! In the immortal words of George Peppard "I love it when a plan comes together!"
After painting the piping/wires:
Unseen wall: Room Assembled: Mocked up in place (Here's how it will look when it's in place): Needless to say, it's coming together nicely! In the immortal words of George Peppard "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Unseen wall:
Room Assembled: Mocked up in place (Here's how it will look when it's in place): Needless to say, it's coming together nicely! In the immortal words of George Peppard "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Room Assembled:
Mocked up in place (Here's how it will look when it's in place): Needless to say, it's coming together nicely! In the immortal words of George Peppard "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Mocked up in place (Here's how it will look when it's in place):
Needless to say, it's coming together nicely! In the immortal words of George Peppard "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Oh wow, that's one heck of a frame there! And love the floor lights, that's gonna look amazing with everything together and up and running.
Well weekend is over and even thou I didn't get the panels on, I did complete the top frame! Yes it's all held together with screws but boy is it solid! That's issues 48 thru 72 on my work bench... yeah it's pretty messy! There's still quite a bit of parts painting and assembling I have to do yet. First I ended up getting the SW 3D Printed Nav Computer. I'll be putting fibers in it soon! Next I did some work on my seating area... still have more work to do on it (painted areas, fiber optics) but mainly wanted to make sure my seats looked realistic enough. I used Flat Tan with some Mud pastels to make them look "well used". Also going to be putting some fibers in my Dajarikk table and up in my upper bunk. Am going to remove the light above the seats to use my Light Pipe. Last pic they are just mocked up, not glued together yet. Starting to look good. Will work on the lighting and see what I can come up with for these.
Ok... so I got a plan. Now that my floors are all painted and grunged properly, I need to think about how I'm going to put the lights under them. The first task is to paint the areas under the floors white. Why white? I could paint them silver but they wouldn't quite look right and would generate alot of hot spots. White on the otherhand would disperse the light more evenly with less hot spots and would be more visually appealing. So I masked off my corridor tubes and started painting.
With that done I had to see just how good the light gets dispersed. So I tossed a couple of white LEDs on the floor, put the floors over them and VIOLA... I think we've got a winner here. Of course I won't be using just regular LEDs here... I'm waiting for my LED strips to come in. So... while I wait for them, I decided it's time to paint these cushion rings to match the rest of my interior. Of course I'm talking about using the Buffing Metalizer Gun Metal... love this stuff. Spray it on, wait for it to dry, buff it to a shine and it looks like metal... used it on the floors too with a little bit of weathering powders to dirty them up a bit if you were wondering! Well that's it for now troopers... more to come... I assure you! :)
With that done I had to see just how good the light gets dispersed. So I tossed a couple of white LEDs on the floor, put the floors over them and VIOLA... I think we've got a winner here.
Of course I won't be using just regular LEDs here... I'm waiting for my LED strips to come in. So... while I wait for them, I decided it's time to paint these cushion rings to match the rest of my interior. Of course I'm talking about using the Buffing Metalizer Gun Metal... love this stuff. Spray it on, wait for it to dry, buff it to a shine and it looks like metal... used it on the floors too with a little bit of weathering powders to dirty them up a bit if you were wondering! Well that's it for now troopers... more to come... I assure you! :)
Of course I won't be using just regular LEDs here... I'm waiting for my LED strips to come in. So... while I wait for them, I decided it's time to paint these cushion rings to match the rest of my interior. Of course I'm talking about using the Buffing Metalizer Gun Metal... love this stuff. Spray it on, wait for it to dry, buff it to a shine and it looks like metal... used it on the floors too with a little bit of weathering powders to dirty them up a bit if you were wondering!
Well that's it for now troopers... more to come... I assure you! :)
OK all... here's the latest updates to my build. I decided to go with the Paragrafix corridor photoetch kit. I like them over the 3D printed hallways. Why? All the corridors have these little floor slits that emit light. Here's a screen cap of the floor lights.
But you have to trim the sides down but leave the spots where the cushion rings fit. That was a major pain in the tush! However... after trimming my floor plates... the first thing I wanted to do was get these floors looking at least somewhat accurate. That meant gluing, alot of cutting, and repainting. Here's how they came out.
Now, notice the step to the cockpit corridor... this really can't be avoided due to the pit on the bottom of the hull, but this PE kit comes with a nice little plate to put there to light up that section. It also comes with the "hidden floor comparatments" but I'm not gonna use them at all... I just glued them into place. Why? Well... in order to actually do them would mean that I would have to scratch build a little compartment under each floor section, cut out the hole in the floor and then figure out a way to still light up the floor slits an avoid the compartments. Besides, I don't think they will be seen once everything is together, but those floor slits will be, so they are my priority.
Yep... lots of updates! I've been been painting my Turrent Tube Replacement and I gotta say... I'm very happy with it. Here's what it looks like (before I add lights to it!)
And here's a comparision of my part against the supplied stock part. You can see, mine definitely looks more movie accurate (even if it doesn't connect the turrets together, but then it never would be able to!)
Alright folks... time for a new update. I've gotten a bunch of my Shapeways parts that I've made printed and delivered and have been painting them up, but my Front Wall Replacement had a couple of small issues (that I've fixed since then) that have cropped up that I figured I would address here. The biggest being that the tube wall doesn't fit in the the back properly. Well it's a pretty easy fix. If any of you have ever had after market parts to detail your model would know, not all of them are perfect and you usually end up having to "fix" them to get them to fit properly. This is a pretty easy fix. All you need to do is trim about 1mm off the front edge of the tube itself on both sides with a dremel tool. Easy right... well here's what it would look like.Using the dremel, sand down both ends of the tube about an inch (pictured here I did it at an angle).Test fit as you go to make sure you don't overdo it.Once you get them trimmed properly it all falls right into place and even the tabs at the top and bottom fit into the slots properly.Welcome to the wonderful world of after market parts! Now I've since fixed this issue with the front wall replacement. So if you were to order it today you wouldn't have this problem, but for those that have ordered it prior to today, it's an easy fix so you don't have to worry about buying a whole new part! Easy pezy!
Well I got my latest shipment of Shapeways parts in the mail yesterday and am pretty pleased with the results! The Starboard wall although has some nasty print lines in it (hoping to get it reprinted for free) fits the slotted holes on the floor perfectly. Also the greeblies that glue into the recesses of the wall fit perfectly as well. I had it printed in White ABS plastic Here's how everything looks on it.Now, also got my front wall printed and ran into a slight problem. Althou the tabs fit into the holes perfectly, the detached tube on the back is off and doesn't quite fit for some reason. May have to repair that and reupload a new version onto shapeways. I had it printed in Black ABS plastic and it doesn't look too bad! I shorted the frames up a bit on both sides to allow room for details on the bunk wall and the Port Side wall.Here is my Turret Alcove replacement. Came out looking grate and the fit is perfect. Gonna be an awesome addition to my kit! This is printed in White ABS with the Resin Ladder (not pictured):And finally got my Cockpuit Corridor Wall Replacements... these came out looking AWESOME! The fit was a little tight but with a little sanding of the front tabs, they slid right into place with no problems! Here's how they look prepainted!Now I can really start painting and getting everything together and I feel so stoked about how things are coming together! Lemme know what you think!
Am really stoked. I got my ESB Port Wall from SW the other day and finally got around to painting it last night. I tell you what... this thing looks AWESOME! And I haven't even put the light or the tubes/wires/cubby hole in it yet. Take a look for yourself!
Mind you... the tube does NOT go up into the gun turrets... because of the bad geometery between the sets and the model, it's impossible. But that part will make it LOOK like it does from the inside. It's kinda a faux tunnel! :)
Thanks guys... yeah I've been a busy boy! :) Matter of fact I just finished a new part that I just finished submitting to Shapeways to replace the entire Turret Hallway. Here's a couple of pics to wet your whistles with:
Needless to say it looks a whole lot better then the one they provide. Whatcha think?
What I think?. Blimming awesome. Excellent work. I had thought of getting the DeAg Falcon. Seeing the two on here made me glad I didn't because there's no way I could come close to matching your builds. That and where would I put it?. though my good wife may have had a suggestion Keep up the good work. I'll be watching with interest and if you don't mind, using your build for reference when I do my AMT 'Cutaway' version.
All the best.
Greg
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