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ICARUS/LIBERTY 1 BUILD (Completed 4-18-21)

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  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, February 20, 2021 4:23 PM

And there is your Minister of Science, Chief defender of the Faith.

Bakster

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, February 20, 2021 4:20 PM

Profile is reduced by half.  The scrap will be used for testing.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, February 20, 2021 4:16 PM

Luvspinball
Bakster, I used to do a lot of electrophysiology experiments during grad school and my post-doc experience, and in order to pin down structures, we used a water-clear silicone.  Ours was medical grade, meaning expensive.  But there are a lot more vendors nowadays.  Try this: Aqua Flex Clear polyurethane It is considerably cheaper than pure silicone, and you can get fairly large quantities for cheap.  Or go the clear silicone route.  Both should do the job. Bob

Hey Bob- thanks for the suggestion. The info says it is like water, so it might not work for this job. I need something that I can shape for waves and such. But one never knows because my best made plans change often. 

Again--thanks for the suggestion. I am keeping it in my top pocket.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, February 20, 2021 4:13 PM

Nino
Yo, when ya turn da light off, da Dio goes on.  What a Nite-Lite!

Not a bad idea Nino! That would be kind of cool. Maybe hook up a "Clapper" to it too. Wink

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Philadelphia Pa
Posted by Nino on Saturday, February 20, 2021 12:47 PM

     Bob, That's a great sounding product for a clear water effect. I've used the Liquidtex stuff and some other acrylic medium. They worked and I was able to stain them.  It's got to be much less bad smelling than using a clear resin. 

     Hey Steve, That box-sized enclosure would make for a nice Lamp base.  That would solve your space dilema. (No pun intended). Display it on an end-table as part of a lamp.

(Just going for a LOL.)

Yo, when ya turn da light off, da Dio goes on.  What a Nite-Lite!

   Nino

  • Member since
    March 2018
  • From: Chicago suburbs
Posted by Luvspinball on Saturday, February 20, 2021 12:16 AM

Bakster

Hi Greg-- yeah for sure. There are a lot of unknowns with what I am going to do, so there will be some testing going on. At this time though, no plans to use resin. What I end up using is a big unknown yet. I will probably first try using a clear caulking material. I had seen someone use the stuff to good effect. The nice thing about it is it hardens clear, you can color it, and it holds the shape you give. It is not perfect though and none of what I researched is. This appears to be the closest to what I want but until I test things--I won't know.

Bakster,

I used to do a lot of electrophysiology experiments during grad school and my post-doc experience, and in order to pin down structures, we used a water-clear silicone.  Ours was medical grade, meaning expensive.  But there are a lot more vendors nowadays.  Try this:

Aqua Flex Clear polyurethane

It is considerably cheaper than pure silicone, and you can get fairly large quantities for cheap.  Or go the clear silicone route.  Both should do the job.

Bob

Bob Frysztak

Luvspinball

Current builds:  Revell 1/96 USS Constitution with extensive scratch building

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, February 18, 2021 7:28 PM

Greg

 

 
steve5
I miss his history and wit .

 

Well said, Steve. So do I.

 

 
 

 Ditto

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, February 18, 2021 6:22 PM

steve5
I miss his history and wit .

Well said, Steve. So do I.

 

 
  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Thursday, February 18, 2021 5:30 PM

Greg
Anyone heard from CapnMac? I think he is in the middle of the weather over yonder and I'm concerned about his silence.

me too , I miss his history and wit .

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, February 18, 2021 4:39 PM

Greg

Ok, thanks for commenting.

 

No problem. I am sure he will comment on this when he pops in.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, February 18, 2021 3:32 PM

Ok, thanks for commenting.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, February 18, 2021 2:55 PM

Greg
Anyone heard from CapnMac? I think he is in the middle of the weather over yonder and I'm concerned about his silence.

Capn has been kind of sparse for awhile now, even before the weather. I assumed he is just busy with work. Hope all is well with him.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, February 18, 2021 1:05 PM

You'll figure it out.

Anyone heard from CapnMac? I think he is in the middle of the weather over yonder and I'm concerned about his silence.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, February 18, 2021 11:51 AM

 

Greg
You might want to do some tests to check the resin or whatever you are going to use for the water for opacity or transparency or whatever. You know what I mean.

 

Hi Greg-- yeah for sure. There are a lot of unknowns with what I am going to do, so there will be some testing going on. At this time though, no plans to use resin. What I end up using is a big unknown yet. I will probably first try using a clear caulking material. I had seen someone use the stuff to good effect. The nice thing about it is it hardens clear, you can color it, and it holds the shape you give. It is not perfect though and none of what I researched is. This appears to be the closest to what I want but until I test things--I won't know. 

I am honing in on a possible wiring/powering solution. It will not be the perfect thing but it's within the Bakster willingness to tolerate it, and it offer less work, and less potential pitfalls. The vision is slowly taking shape.

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, February 17, 2021 12:57 PM

That's a neat idea.

You might want to do some tests to check the resin or whatever you are going to use for the water for opacity or transparency or whatever. You know what I mean.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, February 17, 2021 12:25 PM

Gamera

I like it Bakster. And your plan sounds good. Looking forward to seeing how it goes. 

 

Thanks Gam. If I can pull it off correctly it should be cool. Yes

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, February 17, 2021 12:24 PM

steve5

if their is one bloke that will pull this off , it is you mate . looking forward to seeing more steve .

 

Hey thanks, Steve. 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, February 17, 2021 11:20 AM

I like it Bakster. And your plan sounds good. Looking forward to seeing how it goes. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Tuesday, February 16, 2021 11:30 PM

if their is one bloke that will pull this off , it is you mate . looking forward to seeing more steve .

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, February 16, 2021 11:15 PM

Regarding the base--I had in mind making it from a doored shadow box. Undoubtably, I'd have to replace the glass with plexy allowing Icarus access through a hole I'd cut. The idea was that you see Icarus in water from above, and if you open the box you can peer into the ship from below. Even now I think it'd be a good plan but as I looked for a suitable box it became apparent, I'd have to make some questionable modifications. More than that though-- I was finding it difficult to source one I would be happy with. There is one other thing that irked me and that is-- its footprint. It would be sizeable, and because of that I already knew I could not display it. Shelf space is a premium here. I resolved myself to knowing the model would be relegated to a plastic bin doomed to an occasional viewing. It seemed a shame to put so much work into something, and not get to enjoy it more.

It wasn't until I finished the model that a seed was planted. I began thinking about how nice it would be if I could scale down the base to around the size of the plastic box that I just photographed it on. The crux of the issue though is maintaining a coolness factor, and not sacrifice too much. It'd be the best of both worlds because I could fit it onto a shelf to display.

I thought about this option a long time--weighing the pros and cons, and there are several. I determined it won't be easy to do. In fact--it offers some vexing pitfalls that the shadowbox idea doesn't. The former idea would be the much easier of the two. But --why should I let that stop me now.

And that settles it... I pulled the trigger. I went and purchased the case below. One of the first things I will do is give it a lower profile. The acrylic cover will be lopped off below the arrow, roughly speaking. The remaining depth will allow the Icarus to extend below the waterline, yet above the sea floor. The side of the cover will be transparent color, the same color as the water at its surface. Giving it transparency will hopefully allow the viewer to see the Icarus not only from about the waterline, but below. And yes--the cover will be removeable allowing access to peer into the ship. The difficulties come with powering the ship. Power will need to accompany the cover and I need to do it in a way that it does not take away from the aesthetics. I have some other ideas that add to the problem. The beauty of this is that it adds another dimmention that the shaddow box does not offer. That is -- you can see the model from below and just maybe--I can recreate a cool seafloor as well. This would move the coolness needle far beyond the shaddow box, while reducing the dios footprint taboot.

That is the plan as of today but it could change as I get into this more. There are lot of moving parts with this and pulling it off to my satisfaction won't be an easy task.

One step at a time wins the race.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, February 15, 2021 12:41 PM

Greg
Gosh, it's been quite a journey and a sentence or two in comment seems somehow inappropriate!

Yes, it has been quite the journey. When I think about it, I almost can't believe it. I never intended it to go this long and I certainly didn't intend to shelve one model for another. I am glad I did though. 

Greg
Looking foward to watching it get 'wet' when you get to it. I always wanted to do water either on an HO layout or a model diorama. I'll be watching for sure to see what you come up with.

Sounds good and thanks for the support!

PS: I will probably have a small update within the next day or so.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, February 15, 2021 12:32 PM

littletimmy
he scorched effect is perfect!!! Cant wait to see it in the water.

Thanks Tim! And me too. 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, February 15, 2021 8:38 AM

Gosh, it's been quite a journey and a sentence or two in comment seems somehow inappropriate!

She looks great, Steve. Those of of who have been following along realize how much you put into this model. You should be happy and proud.

Looking foward to watching it get 'wet' when you get to it. I always wanted to do water either on an HO layout or a model diorama. I'll be watching for sure to see what you come up with.

YesYesYes

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Sunday, February 14, 2021 11:10 PM

The scorched effect is perfect!!!

Cant wait to see it in the water.

 

(Dont expect any help from Cornilous ... I have been told Apes fear water.)

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, February 9, 2021 4:34 PM

Gamera
Oh that looks fanastic Bakster!!! Good show!!! It was worth the wait,

Hey thanks, Gam!

Gamera
fingers crossed the diorama comes off as well!!! 

When things get tough-- quit. Hehe. Indifferent

No. I'll finish this... h e l l or high Forbidden Zone water.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, February 9, 2021 10:15 AM

Oh that looks fanastic Bakster!!! Good show!!! It was worth the wait, fingers crossed the diorama comes off as well!!! 

Heart

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, February 7, 2021 10:11 PM

CapnMac82

Outstanding.  Reader's Gallery level.

 

 Hey thanks, Capn. Your comment is a nice shot in the arm.

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Sunday, February 7, 2021 3:54 PM

Outstanding.  Reader's Gallery level.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, February 7, 2021 1:20 PM

Icarus is done and I thought this day would never come. Wink

Most of my exterior weathering was done using powders. I started with a base of yellow. I did this to simulate a heat induced color shift. I noticed they did this on the movie prop and I thought it an effective idea. For the more serious scorching--I followed with brown ending with some black.  

I do not think I mentioned the fabricated thrusters.  I used Evergreen plastic tubing. The image contrast is such that you cannot see the detail. I made it as a circle within a circle to give it some structural detail. Anyway--I attached these as well.

Until I loaded this image, I had not noticed losing one of the filler decals along the wing edge. I suspect it came off just prior to dulcote when I used canned air to dedust. Ah well. As Capn noted, it will be under water.

Anywho--I gave it the old model college try.

Additional info: I weathered the engine bells using Tamiya Panel Line Accent and inside the bells, I used black weathering powder. I then resealed them using dulcote.

Btw. Demasking went well. I was a little worried I'd have to repair some areas. Masking tape had been on the model a long time and that is never a good thing. Thank goodness for Tamiya tape. It has the perfect stick.

This ends Chapter 1, "The Long Road to Icarus." Thus begins Chapter 2, "Into the Drink We Go." 

Time to look in earnest for a suitable base.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, February 7, 2021 12:01 AM

CapnMac82
Hmm, perhaps it's only my wish for synchronicity, but I note the waterline in the image is conveniently above the troublesome area noted by arrows, above.

True. Good catch, Capn. I thought the same thing and toyed with not worrying about it, but I figured it was a good opportunity to challenge myself.

CapnMac82
Dr Zaius would be able to quote from the Book on how such things were foretold.

Lol. Good one.

 

 

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