It all looks good to me, nice work!!!

Tested the idea on some of those extra parts.  To put it simply, the green on green was a flop. 
The hues selected were too similar.  Tried Russian Green + Gunship, as well as Light Green + Gunship.  Thought there would be more contrast between them.

The camera exaggerated the results but not by much.  The parts are scheduled for a bath in prep for the next test.  New colors are TBD.

This model is requiring me to think a lot more about paint prep and assembly.  I almost glued a hand together before realizing the space between the fingers was too tight to ensure a good even coat of paint.  Instead, used my copious blue tack reserve to attach them to a toothpick for priming.

The end result was giving me flashbacks to Akira.

Final color for the hands will be a dark grey blue.

In between that I've been working on the pilot tub.  Went with read leather interior and brownwashed it for dirt and shadows.  Pleased with it's progress.

That little square in the front makes me think of a monitor.  RealG said the suit uses a direct neural interface, but once the idea hit it stuck.  Going to paint that square black and then some gloss to make it look like a screen.  Maybe the techs use it for diagnostics.

The exterior color was going to originally be a grey with red splotches but while looking at the paint rack decided to go with a green on green camo pattern.   Possibly Russian green with gunship green splotches.

Gamera

Looks good, like where you're going!!! 

I know Perfect Plastic Putty is great as a water-based putty you can clean up with a cotton swab-never tried the Vallejo stuff but it should work just as well. 

 

Looks good, like where you're going!!! 

I know Perfect Plastic Putty is great as a water-based putty you can clean up with a cotton swab-never tried the Vallejo stuff but it should work just as well. 

SplatterMan

Looking good so far PhoenixG. I think you could turn that glue into a real opportunity. Looks like some serious arc welding. The impression I get of Ma.K. is that it's like Star Wars with a "held together with chewing gum and spit" kind of theme.

 

I completely agree with you.  I've been fitting parts around it to get a feel for how it would look and I am definitely going to keep that ugly glue seam.

The power plants bring to mind oversized lawn mower engines.  That round piece makes me think of a filler cap on a gas tank.  Thinking that's going to need some fuel stains around it.  :)

The sensor pod's attachment column has an ugly gap that I don't like.  I have Tamiya Putty but it's solvent based and I don't think I'll be able to shape it well with sanding.  Decided to order some Vallejo water based putty.  My thought is being able to clean up and shape it with damp cotton swabs will work better.   Least ways that's the hope.  Having never used the stuff before the results may vary.  As always tips, suggestions, and warnings are most welcome.

Real G

 

 

Gamera

And again cool stuff Real G, would love to see you finish some of them! 

 

 

 

Me too.  

 

Seeing some of everyone's project lists I begin to understand why I don't have any shelf queens, yet.  It's not disicipline on my part, it's that my stash isn't big enough!  There's still space in the closet that hasn't been consumed by models. 

Looking good so far PhoenixG. I think you could turn that glue into a real opportunity. Looks like some serious arc welding. The impression I get of Ma.K. is that it's like Star Wars with a "held together with chewing gum and spit" kind of theme.

Gamera

And again cool stuff Real G, would love to see you finish some of them! 

Me too.  

That's super cool Phoenix! Always thought the Ma.K. stuff was cool but never bought any of it. Really looking forward to seeing how this one works out for you. 

And again cool stuff Real G, would love to see you finish some of them! 

Ok, I've been BS-ing for a bit without showing progress.  I started on the torso and for the most part it went together as a breeze.  Highly recommended Google lens as the instructions are in Japanese and there are a couple of spots where translation is really helpful.

They say the kit doesn't require glue and the fit is nice enough you could probably get away with that but I like minimizing seams which means glue.

The back of the torso is two halves and well I misread the directions three times and didn't notice till after they had been glued together, twice.  Luckily the weld wasn't solid and was able to pry them apart.  However, the end result was rather ugly.

I ended up liking it as it made me think of a field repair.    May just keep it and see what I can do to emphasize that.

There's a good number of polycaps that have nothing to do with joint movement.  They are strictly there to help hold it together.

Never seen polycaps used this way before.  It's a novel approach to assembly.  So far I am liking it as they design holds the parts nice and snug.

Removed the rest of the major torso parts and primed them with grey Vallejo primer. From the instructions this looks to be a modular build so it should be pretty easy to assemble and paint them in stages.

It came with two pilots heads.  As you can see I started working on one already.  Did it while waiting for the glue and primer to dry on the parts.

I've not done human faces before.  I've gone through some of the posts in the figures forum for ideas as well as trolled a little bit of YouTube.  That's why he looks like he has a 5 o'clock shadow.  May have gotten ahead of myself on that one.

Real G

the kits are expensive and hard to find. Both are true, but if you know where to look, it's not too bad. Your best bet is to get them on-line from Japan.

I can vouch for that.  This kit was ordered from Hobby Link Japan, hlj.com(the person who gifted it to me confirmed this).  They have a massive selection of Macross and other kits.  Right now the Ma.K. selection is low but for the kits they have the price is hard to beat.

I haven't even finished this one and I am already putting together an order.  I think I've been bit by the bug.  :)

The shipping may seem high (they are coming from Japan) but if you can order a few models together one usually saves more than ordering the same from a US store or going to the local hobby shop.

MaK is a hard sell in my experience, but those who drink the Kool Aid seem to like it a lot!

My first MaK kit was the Nitto SAFS shown in the pic above, bought from the local Woolworths(!) and built in 1985.  Two things people mention about the genre - the kits are expensive and hard to find.  Both are true, but if you know where to look, it's not too bad.  Your best bet is to get them on-line from Japan.  There are other MaK fans here on the forum, so hopefully they will chime in to share their experience.

Those look great RealG. I watched a few videos by Lincoln Wright and now seeing some of your collection it's got me interested to try one at some point.

Count me as a follower for your build PhoenixG.

RealG,

You're a font of Ma.K. knowledge!  I'd been trying to search for images of variants without success.  In your two posts I've learned tons and they've helped me refine my searches with greater success.  However, your images and explanations have been by far the most helpful.

Understand the shelf of doom.  So many fun distractions.  Trying to be disciplined and limit the number of builds going at one time.  Having no more than two going at a time seems to be the sweet spot for me.  Helps maintain my focus.  Though it is admittedly hard to resist adding just one more.  :)

Real G

Part 4 is where the laser gun power hose attaches to the left side of the body, part 5 is the standard SAFS engine plate. Parts swapping is not really practical, as it also requires the use of an upper arm segment with a receptacle for the other end of the hose.

Excellent call out.  It sent me searching the sprues and I think I found it.

But then I have to decide whether to use the RACCOON power plate.

Seems like there's a decision in my future.  Build as instructed or finish catologing the parts and tweak the build. Or, purchase a second one to become a customized recon unit. 

That last one is tempting but harder on the pocket book.

Real G

Use metal wire for the antenna, as it will be way more durable. Also, the ankles should have a pair of wires connecting them to the lower legs.

Thanks for the tip on the antenna and ankles.  There's locations for the ankle cables but nothing in the instructions.  Should be simple enough to drill them out and use some solder for the cables.

Thanks!  The Sea Pig is one of the many 90% finished projects that lurk on my Shelf of Doom.  

Part 4 is where the laser gun power hose attaches to the left side of the body, part 5 is the standard SAFS engine plate.  Parts swapping is not really practical, as it also requires the use of an upper arm segment with a receptacle for the other end of the hose.

Use metal wire for the antenna, as it will be way more durable.

Also, the ankles should have a pair of wires connecting them to the lower legs.

RealG,

     Thank you for sharing your knowledge and builds! That Sea Pig is gonna be stunning when complete.  I hope you'll post the finished work.

Real G

Regular SAFS are equipped with a laser gun on the left arm, but Raccoons have two hands for more mischief.

LOL, that got me thinking about one set of parts.  I'm pretty sure this is supposed to be the laser gun. 

With the way it's designed with the polycaps I wouldn't be surprised if I could build it so the left arm was swappable...

Seems like they may have taken one of the other SAFS kit and added some new sprues for this version of the Racoon.  Not complaining, it gives me more out of the box options for the build.

If it isn't a bother, would be curious if these ring any bells for you?

Figure I'll dry fit the sub assmeblies as instructed and see if I can puzzle out any other parts. 

I noticed there isn't a molded antenna so I'll get to try my hand at sprue stretching.  Should be educational. :)

PhoenixG,

The Raccoon is a reconnaisance verson of the Super Armored Fighting Suit (SAFS).  The thing on its shoulder is a multi-sensor recon pod.  Regular SAFS are equipped with a laser gun on the left arm, but Raccoons have two hands for more mischief.

One interestng feature of the SAFS family is that they are equipped with an indirect vision system, which is why they don't have any windows.  Video data from several cameras located around the body is converted and fed directly to the driver's optic nerves.  Sounds kinda spooky if you ask me.

The enemy's equivalent to this indirect vision system is found in the Kauz (space use) and the Melusine (ground use).  Wave has kitted the Kauz, and the Melusine is coming soon.

There's a whole family of SAFS out there, all available in kit form (SAFS, Raccoon, Fireball, Snake Eye, Raptor, Sea Pig, etc.).

Here are some of mine:

Sea Pig (advanced space version of the Raccoon) under construction.

SAFS (standard ground combat type)

PKA H.0 (enemy standard ground combat type).

There is a whole world behind MaK, to tempt your curiosity and drain your wallet!