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Tamiya Big-E - USS Enterprise 1/350

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  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 6:17 PM

Hi again, folks.

Mike, thanks for the post.

This is a open forum in order to change experiences.

My english is not very good. So, what I want to know is if we glue photo etched parts before paint or after paint. The GMM's instructions says that we must fix PE rail after paint PE and plastic parts. Otherwise, PE "surface" parts (like doors) must be glued before paint. A think if the PE and plastic parts will be painted with the same color, all parts must be glued before paint. 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 5:37 PM

A.M.Jorge

One doubt: I need to glue photo etched rails first or last, after paint ? Thanks for posting.

If your going to have any of the elevators in the lowered position don't forget to add safety railings around the openings

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 12:00 PM

One doubt: I need to glue photo etched rails first or last, after paint ? Thanks for posting.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 11:55 AM

Hi. Today, more gap filling. A tiring work that is taking too long.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:30 AM

Hi, guys. Today, using the same tools and in order not to be filling gaps (this is getting very boring), I made the hole in the hangar door. It's a job that requires some precision to be good, but the plastic is a slightly thick. This is my first experience, but had a reasonable result. Maybe I use the other pieces that will not use to do a better job.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, January 4, 2011 7:12 AM

No pictures today, my cell phone is dead this week. Without much news, still filling in the gaps. I started working on the elevators, removing the plastic piece that will be replaced by a photoetched. A job that I thought would be boring and difficult (almost impossible) but it is fun using a small drill, file and knife. But even so, it take several hours. Next week I'll post the photos.

The Pics:

 

 

Three hours later ...

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 6:46 AM

looking good Jorge

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 6:13 AM

New week. New sponsons and new gaps to fill. I'm using super glue to fill the gaps. It's good because cures fast, but is harder than putty to sand. Before glue this small sponsons I will paint them because will be very dificult to do this later. Other big sponsons are already fixed in the place.

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Wednesday, December 15, 2010 7:55 AM

Still a lot gaps to fill and a screw hole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 12:37 PM

A new week and a lot of gaps to fill. I assembled this kit in 2000 and my impression is that this 2010 kit is quite different in terms of precision.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, December 9, 2010 5:49 AM

A lot of sponsons to build and a lot of gaps to fill. Once more a CIWS "box" was removed in order to put a better resin CIWS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Wednesday, December 8, 2010 4:25 PM

Sure. Here you go:

/forums/t/131974.aspx

 

  

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Wednesday, December 8, 2010 12:58 PM

Thank you. Could you give me the link ?

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Wednesday, December 8, 2010 9:16 AM

Looks good!  There's a ship group build going on, come and join.  I've been posting progress on my Big-E in there.

  

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Wednesday, December 8, 2010 7:01 AM

Joining the hull.

Joining the hull. One the most important step in this kit. Fisrt, I tested fitting, then I joined parts using super glue. Even so, the gap is there. So, I filled it using super glue once and sanded; filled again using super glue and so sanded again using grit 320. Because I saw no more gaps, I used 600 grit sand and then 1000 grit sand. Grit 600 is enought to paint, but I used 1000 just for fun. Also, I sanded injection pins and marks.

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, December 2, 2010 9:59 AM

In fact, this is the second article. The first is here:

 

 

And a complete article in the Finescale here:

http://www.finescale.com/en/sitecore/content/Magazine%20Issues/1993/May%201993.aspx

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, December 2, 2010 8:07 AM

Progress still looking good !! I remember that magazine from the Eighties had it myself at one time.This is a very nostalgic build.looking foward to more progress.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, December 2, 2010 7:20 AM

Modifications on the rear right Sea Sparrow sponson.  In 1982, there is no Sea Sparrow launcher at this place, but Chaff release. So, I remove the fit hole, fill and sand:

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, November 30, 2010 5:33 AM

I think not. I will use Tamiya's.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, November 29, 2010 2:44 PM

And are you going to replace your kit supplied aircraft with Trumpeter 1/350 scale Aircraft?

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Monday, November 29, 2010 10:41 AM

Detailing CIWS bow port sponson.

First, I removed the "small box" with a very small saw, sanded, glued Veteran Model resin CIWS and removed plastic railing:

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:08 PM

Planes.

I'm working on a decal sheet "carrier air wing eleven 1982". Follow a low resolution image:

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, November 25, 2010 6:57 AM

Colors.

One guy do not use the same color than the other guy. So, I read in the TMMI an article about paint the Big E and achive my own conclusions using Tamiya acrilics paints.

hull color - XF - 19 Sky Grey

flight deck color - XF - 63 German Grey

catapult track color - a mix of XF - 63 German Grey + X - 10 Gun Metal

all other horizontal surfaces - XF - 24 Dark Grey

waterline - XF - 1 Flat Black

under hull - a mix of XF - 7 Flat Red and XF - 9 Hull Red just to darken.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Thursday, November 25, 2010 6:38 AM

Hi.

 

Big E just arrived.

Kit parts, decals and manual could be seen here:

 

 

My fisrt task was scratchbuild the "three holes" in ship's "front":

I used the aircraft sprue ( - 3.5-4.0 mm) to make the small holes, drilling a 2mm hole, smashing with care and the ship's sprue (- 4.5-5mm) with a 3mm hole to do the big hole. First, I marked the holes in the hull. Then I drilled a bit small holes in the correct position. Last, (super)glued the parts.

Now, need to fill gaps and sand/file.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Friday, November 5, 2010 7:53 AM

Hi,

My Big-E is on the way and not arrived yet.

I was thinking if is better paint the sponsors first or join with the hull, fill the gaps and paint later.

Some sponsor will be very dificult to reach after join with the hull.

Regards.

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:08 AM

Putty mostly, hit a few spots with thin super glue, cause they where small and didn't want to wait for the putty to dry.

  

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 10:25 AM

Are you filling with super glue or putty ?

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 8:43 AM

Nothing to show right now.  The seam where the bow attaches is fighting me.

  

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Sao Paulo/Brazil
Posted by A.M.Jorge on Monday, October 18, 2010 11:20 AM

B17Pilot

I'm currently working on the same model for a friend who serverd on her in the 1990s.  Just recently started on her.  Working on the seam where the bow attaches.  Also got the GMM detail set and a couple of Trumpeter's 1/350 aircraft for the flight deck and my scratch built hanger bay.

B17Pilot, please, post some pics. Thanks.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Thursday, October 7, 2010 9:37 AM
1/400  #720-1000  Aurora
CVN-65 USS Enterprise Attack Carrier
Good++   Injection Molded   new
$185

Second issue dated 1961 with John Steel box artwork. Aurora pulled out all the stops on this model, and it had a very large tooling cost to match. The result is a nicely detailed model that is well-designed for actual operation in water. As a bonus, the first issue only had the flight deck pre-painted with black background and white lines (as per the box art) and is in excellent shape. The kit is over 33 inches long when assembled and is intended to be motorized. Very easy conversion to RC (remote control). Aurora sold a separate motorizing kit that contained the electric motors and other needed parts. This kit features four (5 bladed) props, stuffing boxes, dual operational rudders, color decals, waterline striping tape, moving elevators, twin Sea Sparrow launchers, deck tugs, plated display stand, detailed island structure with clear windows, large airwing with 40 aircraft including F-4 Phantom, F-8 Crusader, A-4 Skyhawk and two Hup Helicopters and more. The kit has never been started. Internal factory sealed bag or inventoried 100% complete including decals and instructions.

 

Ahhh, found it. This was a wild kit. The bridge windows were molded in clear green plastic and the little F-4s weren't so little.

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