Tamiya Big-E - USS Enterprise 1/350

See next post.

Ok A.M.jorge your first problem is that you didn't mask past where you painted a simple solution is to tape sheets of paper towel to the edges of your paint masks. same goes for the masking tape stencil for the number 65 . Just paint over it with the Nato black and you should be fine and also when doing the stencils for the lines and the number 65 use light coats of paint as it looks like you used a heavy coat on the number 65.

BTW the center line on a aircraft carrier is white and yellow.

A.M.Jorge

Dear friends,

I'm still on the rush, but at least we have removed the masking tape. I'm wanting to redo the painting for several reasons: it was a bit thick, it is with some risks, I still can not decide whether the color is similar, and, anyway, I'll have to redo because of spray of white paint that has tainted the entire deck.

The white markings also were a little thick, and when removing the tape, they fouled the dark a bit. It would be easier if all the paint used was gloss, but still have a lot of flat paint.

Let's remove the tapes:

See some defects: the most serious is the part that was not masked became whiter.

Top view:

Some defects in the marking of "65" beyond the paint is too thick.

Does it snowed on the left?

Dear friends,

I'm still on the rush, but at least we have removed the masking tape. I'm wanting to redo the painting for several reasons: it was a bit thick, it is with some risks, I still can not decide whether the color is similar, and, anyway, I'll have to redo because of spray of white paint that has tainted the entire deck.

The white markings also were a little thick, and when removing the tape, they fouled the dark a bit. It would be easier if all the paint used was gloss, but still have a lot of flat paint.

Let's remove the tapes:

See some defects: the most serious is the part that was not masked became whiter.

Top view:

Some defects in the marking of "65" beyond the paint is too thick.

Does it snowed on the left?

Well I hope you didn't strip the deck yet as you can paint over the German Gray with the Nato Black. Stripping is a bit time consuming and there is always the chance of goofing up the paint job on the hull if your not careful.

A.M.Jorge

I just bought the Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

While I wait for her arrival, I remove paint from the deck using ethyl alcohol.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

Hi. I used tamiya acrylic.

What did you paint the deck with in the first place Enamel or acrylic?

I just bought the Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

While I wait for her arrival, I remove paint from the deck using ethyl alcohol.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

Thanks.

A.M.Jorge

Dear friends,

I was wondering, the deck is a little bluish. I'm thinking about remove this grey tone and use black instead.

Regards.

Try Tamiya Nato Black or White Ensign Flight deck grey.

Dear friends,

I was wondering, the deck is a little bluish. I'm thinking about remove this grey tone and use black instead.

Regards.

Hio guys, I'm here, but not new yet. Still a lot of work to do.

Sorry, guys, a lot of job to do.

No enought time to work on Big E.

I will try, at least, remove the tapes and post pictures.

any updates?

You ever thought of just using post it notes to fix overspray just stick it on your stencil and then spray your deck color to fix your little mistake.

A.M.Jorge

Hi. I'm sorry about delay.

White is usually a color that requires some care not to to stay with colors of the base on which is painted. At the most, just use the airbrush. I made a mistake that will cost me more time: I forgot to cover the deck area which was splattered with white. It's almost imperceptible, but it gets ugly.


Material.

The airstrip.

 

"65."

The spray of white on the deck gray. I'll have to retouch.

Next week, we will complete one year of posting CVN-65. Happy birthday !

Hi. I'm sorry about delay.

White is usually a color that requires some care not to to stay with colors of the base on which is painted. At the most, just use the airbrush. I made a mistake that will cost me more time: I forgot to cover the deck area which was splattered with white. It's almost imperceptible, but it gets ugly.


Material.

The airstrip.

"65."

The spray of white on the deck gray. I'll have to retouch.

WOW! Looks like it'll turn out great!

Looks like you might have a little notch on the '5', though.

Masking ...

A.M.Jorge,

I LOVE the appearance of the deck!  It is seemless and the elevators give it a unique look.  I am following your work very closely!

Bill Morrison

The next step would be to paint the light gray parts in the hull. However, as we have the grilles of the elevators and they are pierced, I thought it is better to paint the flight deck first so that the ink does not pass through the holes and mess the hull.

The first step is to define the top of the waterline with the tape, protecting all the painting below this point. Then, there was no secret, ,mix the paint and paint the flight deck.

I had a question regarding the color: I found the grey is very bluish, it should be more "black."


First, we must protect the work already done.

You see the water line is well defined by the tape.

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The color of the flight deck.

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As I found the color bluish and a bit clear, I did a test with the other gray.

On the right the last color, slightly lighter. It is best to use the XF-63, slightly darker.

Now back to the color originally planned. I'm still thinking it is very blue and could be darker.

Detail of a six segments jet deflector of a catapult.

Final result.
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" style="background-color:#fff;">Guys, sorry about my english. It's not so good and sometimes I use Google translator.

There are doors on ships. Doors provide access through bulkheads. Hatches provide access through decks.

Ray Marotta

No ceilings, either...Just the overhead...

All the best

Ray

Except if your topside. then you might be sluffing off your duties then or your an officer.

No ceilings, either...Just the overhead...

All the best

Ray

subfixer

Just so you know; There are no "stairs" on a ship. They are ladders.

Also there are no doors walls and floors on a ship either just bulkheads hatches and decking.

Hatches are supposed to be (on real ships) 6" to 8" from the deck as a measure to prevent flooding and are what are called knee knockers. You can replicate it on a model just by making sure there is a gap between the deck and the hatch.

Just so you know; There are no "stairs" on a ship. They are ladders.

I concur, the paint looks great, and the detail work is outstanding (damn photo etch driving us to a new level of advanced modelers syndrome).  I have a 1/350 Hornet waiting for me, kudos for tackling such an advanced peice of plastic.  Look forward to more

Looking very nice, glad to see some paint on it. One step closer!

Dear friends, good morning.

Continuing to paint, I did the waterline. I am using bright colors, but then matte varnish will be applied. I used tape to mark the line. Then just cover the red color with magazines. Save a tape and avoids contact adhesive.

The first step, and also the most time consuming, is to mark the line with tape.

Then cover everything with magazine pages. In this case, the newspaper leaves dirt stains black ink. Always use magazines pages.

I also did the pre shading of some areas.

The black line, with only tape on the bottom. The top will be set by the next step of painting.

Details of the pre shading.

Already without the tape.

I've got the kit, too, and thuogh it is currently packed away, when I get the opportunity (?) it will have to go into 'dry dock'  for an extensive overhaul/SLEP and repairs! 

Let's move on.

 I'll begin to paint the hull. Because of the details, I will do the opposite of what I'm used to, usually using lighter colors first and then the darker ones. This time, I paint from the bottom until you reach the top. The reason is that with these PE stairs I'm out of space to use the tape on the gray.

 Material.
 

 This could even be a Ferrari ...
 

 A hull later ...