IJN Battleship "Mutsu" 1:350 full option

I can't hardly wait

Many thanks for all kind comments and suggestions since my previous reply. This month has been a very busy month for me. Today I took pictures of new ships in a new page which I'll post shortly. It's the fifth page this month.

...

Gentlemen, forgive my inexperience...may I ask what "pre-zimmed" means?

(and while you are being so kind, and as I know we all enjoy nice pics of builds...

Manstein's revenge

This must be the "pre-Zimmed" series of Japanese battleship kits I've been hearing so much about...

Yep, definitely not field applied.

This must be the "pre-Zimmed" series of Japanese battleship kits I've been hearing so much about...

They made the same mistake with the hull, that makes me wonder if they used the same hull.  If so then they made another mistake.  There are changes that each had built in from the start.  This kit is not exactly the same, with added parts.  Both are supposed to be about 1941.  A rivet counter will have some trouble with some areas, but for most buyers who just like to build, it should not be a major set back.  At the price they are getting for both ships you would expect more, but then modeling is made up of many elements.  Some like the detail others like the concept.  So what floats your boat, go for detail or just build for fun?  With these kits you have your wish both ways.  And for those that want the extra detail fine, by all means go forth and build, because if you don't buy then new better kits will never make it to market. 

And don't forget to support you local hobby store, or you will find they have all gone just like these two great ships.

You can read more here:

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSG40067

http://www.ipmsusa2.org/reviews/Kits/Ships/hasegawa_350_mutsu/hasegawa_350_mutsu.htm

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=3734

Happy modeling...

Referring to the Mutsu if you do not mind...is the kit much different than the Nagato 1941 if you have had a chance to compare? Are they exact sisters at this time frame?

 Last year I had another one built by "Toom". Local made PE (3 big sheets) added up the details to the ship. Skilled painting made the plastic deck looks wooden. He even scribed the lines on the hull sides (see 2nd image):

thanks for including the pics, MM, but Interesting enough, when looking for pics online of decent 1/350 Yamato builds, I ran across these while ago and had saved them in my build folder already! 

Those old jap battlewagons   -beautiful designs...but daughting builds!

potchip

With regards to ensigns/flags, the standard procedure is whilst docking, the flag is at stern, and whilst underway flag is i think at bow. Also the flag used on the build seems to be the admiralty flag, which is not displayed on the bow/stern but rather on top of the mast. The flags on bow/stern is typically the hinomaru without the 'rays'. Then the flags on the main mast are again different typically a larger size and it's position changes depending on what the ship's task is etc etc..Will this is approaching nitpicking territory.

The traditions surrounding the display of flags varies by country.   Another opportunity for research.  

In the USN the Ensign (national flag) is flown at the stern (between sunrise & sunset) when anchored or moored.     The Jack is flown from the bow.     As soon as the anchor is aweigh or the last mooring line is let go the colors are shifted.   The Ensign is flown from the main mast and the Jack is lowered.    A ship can be drifting between piers undergoing inclining tests and still be considered to be 'underway'.  The definition of the main mast varies by ship.   Generally it is the aft-most, not the highest.   For example,  on a Fletcher destroyer it is a gaff on the aft stack.

There are instances where another country's flag may be flown from a yardarm as an honor to the host country.   

Not nitpicky if you or your builder insist on continually doing it otherwise after having the traditions explained to you

CAD (computer aided drawing) lines are used when rendering a a drawing in 3 dimensions on a computer. When we refer to CAD lines in the Mutsu, we are referring to the lines that the mold maker mistakenly included in the production of the mold. These CAD lines, loft lines in particular, help to form the framework that the skin is applied to. They are not supposed to be there, they were supposed to have been removed before the drawing was sent to the mold maker. They are not meant to show hull plating.

Here is a video that shows what we are referring to:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5XBa9xoKp4&playnext=1&list=PL90346F501AF51DF9&index=7

Well...to each and his own. Some build for build, like weathering for weathering's sake. Not saying that's anything wrong with any of these approaches as the hobby is a hobby and is to be enjoyed by the hobbist.

It doesn't take much time to do some research though and personally I find it immensely fun part of the hobby. It also lets you build something that's 'different' to the rest if you dug that much deeper and can define specific details in a build.

Maniac's question on why would one build 2 ships of the same class is a good example, guess it is expected from a non-ship builder? Every ship throughout its life, basically every time it enters a dock may came out different. Same ships of the same class are never the same etc etc. The fun is to spot the differences and distinguish your build.

As on those lines on the hull, outwardly they are either wield lines or plating (one on top of another so it is stepped arrangement. Scribing is an easy way out for 1/700 scale, just to catch the wash so they are defined. But at 1/350 scale, the 'seam' is a mis-representation.

With regards to ensigns/flags, the standard procedure is whilst docking, the flag is at stern, and whilst underway flag is i think at bow. Also the flag used on the build seems to be the admiralty flag, which is not displayed on the bow/stern but rather on top of the mast. The flags on bow/stern is typically the hinomaru without the 'rays'. Then the flags on the main mast are again different typically a larger size and it's position changes depending on what the ship's task is etc etc..Will this is approaching nitpicking territory.

ships do not have those lines as tho the hull is built with building blocks just like brick\concrete block houses are not built like that. you have no strength in that hull. your builder should have realized something was not right when he saw that hull like that or does he just get paid to build without thinking about those problems. i build both kits of various scales & scratchbuild 1/144 scale ships but those ships have both long & short plates depending on the shape of the hull.

subfixer

 

Model Maniac:

 

 

 

 As for those CAD lines, I saw the real ship in the same class and it also has them. So I think there's no problem with them. 

 

Thank you very much for your kind compliments on the build. You're right that "Niphon" couldn't have known about those CAD lines. I didn't know either!

 

 

 

 

You saw the other ship in the class? That is pretty amazing, I didn't know you were a diver. The other ship in the class with Mutsu  was Nagato which was sunk by an atomic bomb test in Bikini Atoll.

I mean I saw pictures of the real ship in the same class, but then some words were missing.

Wojszwillo

1)

Black color fishing line:

http://www.mikado.pl/catalog/zylki_i_plecionki/zylki/feeder/

She is 0,2 mm tick i.e. 0,0079''

There are and 0,06 mm tick fishing lines, i.e. 0,0024''

2)

I saw weathering, but have tought that grey plastic is leaved without painting.

Sorry, if I was mistaken.

Thanks for the link! It'll be handy if I can't find .003 & .004 lines locally, and .0024 is even finer.

No problem. Maybe the grey color is too light. A local IJN ship nerd suggested that it should be in darker grey tone.

Bill and Manstien, that issue has already been addressed. My modeler couldn't have known that.

Firedeck

NICE build Maniac.  We can see the time and patience invested in this project and you should be justifiably proud. I myself  am in the midst of a rebuild of 1/350 Tamiya Yamato with the new LionRoar set (unbelievable how many parts in that upgrade, sheesh) and the time required for completion can be rather daunting.

I have the Hasegawa Nagato up next on the bench (also with the associated LionRoar set) and so found your post and pics very interesting and timely.

Well done.

Thanks, Firedeck!. As for the Tamiya's Yamato 1:350, I built one myself long time ago out of the box. I remember it took me 4 days & nights to assemble and 2 more days & nights to paint it using Tamiya's Spraywork. I didn't paint the deck in wood color because that's too difficult for me, I painted it grey same as the hull. Last year I had another one built by "Toom". Local made PE (3 big sheets) added up the details to the ship. Skilled painting made the plastic deck looks wooden. He even scribed the lines on the hull sides (see 2nd image):

More images are available at this page:

[url]http://www.falconbbs.com/model51b.htm[/img]

Have fun building your Yamato & Nagato!

Manny,

I used Testor's Putty to fill in those lines. The fine-tip nozzle helped make it an easy task.

Bill

EdGrune

 

Is it me or did the BS alarm just go off

So loud, it made my ears bleed.....

subfixer

 

Model Maniac:

 

 

 

 As for those CAD lines, I saw the real ship in the same class and it also has them. So I think there's no problem with them. 

 

Thank you very much for your kind compliments on the build. You're right that "Niphon" couldn't have known about those CAD lines. I didn't know either!

 

 

 

 

You saw the other ship in the class? That is pretty amazing, I didn't know you were a diver. The other ship in the class with Mutsu  was Nagato which was sunk by an atomic bomb test in Bikini Atoll.

Is it me or did the BS alarm just go off

Model Maniac

 As for those CAD lines, I saw the real ship in the same class and it also has them. So I think there's no problem with them. 

 

You certainly didn't see those lines on the 'real ship in the same class'.  Wartime photos of both Nagato and Mutsu are pretty clear - those lines are not there.

It's a nice build, but don't try to blow sunshine up our skirts - and why should you, it isn't your builders issue, per se, it was Hasagawa that screwed this up...

Model Maniac

 

 As for those CAD lines, I saw the real ship in the same class and it also has them. So I think there's no problem with them. 

 

Thank you very much for your kind compliments on the build. You're right that "Niphon" couldn't have known about those CAD lines. I didn't know either!

 

You saw the other ship in the class? That is pretty amazing, I didn't know you were a diver. The other ship in the class with Mutsu  was Nagato which was sunk by an atomic bomb test in Bikini Atoll.

1)

Black color fishing line:

http://www.mikado.pl/catalog/zylki_i_plecionki/zylki/feeder/

She is 0,2 mm tick i.e. 0,0079''

There are and 0,06 mm tick fishing lines, i.e. 0,0024''

2)

I saw weathering, but have tought that grey plastic is leaved without painting.

Sorry, if I was mistaken.

warshipguy

Actually, those lines engraved into the hull moldings do not represent hull platings; they are the CAD lines used by the kit's design team to design the parts.  The lines should have been erased from the design. As a result, they are molded into the hull parts in error by Hasegawa.  They should be filled in.

Bill Morrison

Actually, those lines engraved into the hull moldings do not represent hull platings; they are the CAD lines used by the kit's design team to design the parts.  The lines should have been erased from the design. As a result, they are molded into the hull parts in error by Hasegawa.  They should be filled in.

Bill Morrison

NICE build Maniac.  We can see the time and patience invested in this project and you should be justifiably proud. I myself  am in the midst of a rebuild of 1/350 Tamiya Yamato with the new LionRoar set (unbelievable how many parts in that upgrade, sheesh) and the time required for completion can be rather daunting.

I have the Hasegawa Nagato up next on the bench (also with the associated LionRoar set) and so found your post and pics very interesting and timely.

Well done.

anthony2779 - Many thanks for your kind compliments!

ddp59 - I still don't get it about the gap. Can you locate it in the picture? As for those engraved lines, 'subfixzer' has suggested that the builder "couldn't have known about those cad lines on the hull that were not supposed to be there", and that's the case.

sumter III - Thanks so much for your kind words! You've been building this one for 6 months?, how many more months do you think it will take? I have seen your pictures of the real Nagato, I think it's OK not to do anything with those CAD lines because the real ship seems to have that same lines. But why will you build both the Mutsu and the Nagato when they're in the same class? Wouldn't it be better to divert your resource to building other ship such as Akagi?

plastickjunkie - Many thanks for your answer. I believe you and I've already asked my brother to buy .003 & .004 nylon wires for me from shops near his office. Using a wooden base and brass or wood finials means that you'll have to drill two big holes under the hull, right? That may not be easy job, and I think the ship is more secured sitting on its own base - the one provided in the box - than on two poles (your finials). 

Thanks again then!

subfixer - Thanks for the meaning of "ensigns". So the flags are at the wrong places? I don't know whether the instruction sheets suggest the points to put the flags or not. But I think it should, and the builder has followed the instructions. As for those CAD lines, I saw the real ship in the same class and it also has them. So I think there's no problem with them. 

Thank you very much for your kind compliments on the build. You're right that "Niphon" couldn't have known about those CAD lines. I didn't know either!

The next three ships that I'll show in a row will be 

1. Academy's Admiral Graf Spee 1:350 (Premium Edition) (#1)

2. AFV Club's U-Boat type VIIB + Voyager's PE Upgrade Set 1:350 (#1)

3. Revell's U-Boat type VIIC 1:350 (#1)

(#1 means 1 of 2 - I bought these three ships two each, crazy?)

They're being built by another modeler named "Toom". I hope he'll deliver them this month or next.

"Ensigns" is another word for flags. The cad lines are really an unfortunate accident but they shouldn't be made worse by being made more pronounced by having a wash applied to them. The searchlights need lenses.

This is an excellently done piece. My compliments to the builder, he couldn't have known about those cad lines on the hull that were not supposed to be there.

[quote user="Model Maniac"]

Between the .003 or .004 nylon and finest copper wire (I don't know its diameter but it's very fine), what do you think is a better choice?

A wooden base may be better, but it costs some bucks and the provided base will not be used. And that's a waste! I see no gap in the 4th picture.

 I'd go with the .003 nylon thread. Very easy to work with and attach with CA. Wood bases are inexpensive. Just need a couple of brass or wood finials as attachment points and some stain for the wood.

Again, looks very nice.